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Old 02-03-2014, 02:20 PM
  #41  
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I think u guys need to define what polish is.. its usually contains oil which comes right off with rain or a car wash. Or if you say 'i polished my car all day with carnuba wax', well you are changing the word polish from a noun into a verb or adjective. I'm using the term polish for the way that retailers use it on their labels.

Polish doesnt last. Wax is what u want to do. The proof is in the pictures. You can fake out your appearance with polish and oil if you want, but i'm doing it right with creating a flat surface with diamond cut #10 and then buff with #3, then wax. Long lasting.


You guys are dipshits
Old 02-03-2014, 02:34 PM
  #42  
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This is all you need after diamond cut number 3. And number 3 is like a polish inyour terms, but there is no oil to fake the shine.. which will come off later. This wax works great. As do some other high quality wwaxes... http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product/4601.
Old 02-03-2014, 02:42 PM
  #43  
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chad.....
carnauba wax is naturally found from the leaves of the palm Copernicia prunifera, a plant native to and grown only in the northeastern Brazilian states of Piauí, Ceará, and Rio Grande do Norte.

a sealant is a man made or a synthetic wax.

polish and compound corrects paint as it has abrasives in them.



you need to correct paint first, then seal with a wax or a sealant.
you cannot do it the other way around, because the intent of the product.

the intent of a polish or a compound is to get rid of swirls and defects in the paint.
the intent of a wax and or a sealant is to protect the paint

Last edited by justnspace; 02-03-2014 at 02:45 PM.
Old 02-03-2014, 02:52 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Chad05TL
this product is a sealant. it is synthetically made and does not naturally occur in nature.
Old 02-03-2014, 02:53 PM
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anything that cuts or refines is a polish or a compound, as it has abrasives in it.
Old 02-03-2014, 03:29 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Chad05TL
diamond cut #10 and then buff with #3, then wax. Long lasting.
you are polishing then waxing!
remember, polishing = cutting = fixing = correcting.


after you cut/fix/correct, you need to wax/seal.
Old 02-03-2014, 04:37 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Chad05TL
I dont use compound. I use diamond cut number 10, then follow up with number 3. But that is only if i use 2000 grit paper, not for removing sticky residue. Then after number 3, i wax it. Wax will stick to clear coat. But it wont stick to an oily surface, and many polishes have oil. So, wax first, then if you want an oily polish like for a car show, then polish. But oily polishes wont stay on long on normal use cars because the oil washes off. I dont need to follow up with an oily polish that washes off. A high grade wax is best for longevity.
Meguiars Diamond Cut #85 IS a compound, aggressive level is 10 when Meguiars scale topped out at 10. And being a diminishing abrasive polish (DAT), it is more prone to leaving pigtails than new, non-diminishing (SMAT) compounds like Meguiars #105, M100 or M101. Here is a good explanation of the difference:

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...rasive-vs-SMAT

DAT products use a kind of abrasive that becomes smaller and smaller as it is worked against the surface. The 80 series polishes (85,84,83,80) use this kind of technology. They have specific work time and you have to work through that entire work time because the abrasives need to break down and keep polishing the surface. If you stop working the prodict too soon, there may be some hazing due to the abrasives not breaking down all the way.

SMAT stands for Super Micro Abrasive Technology. Products like M105, M205, Ultimate Compound, Swirlx, Scratchx 2.0, M86 and D151 all use SMAT. This means that the abrasives do not break down. They are extremely small and do not break down upon working the product. This allows detailers and technicians to work the product as long as they need to, not as long as the product needs to. SMAT saves time in this manner. Furthermore, SMAT allows a compound like M105 to finish out very nicely and in some cases, it can be used as a finishing polish! Finishing polishes like M205 can also bring clarity to a finish that M80 Spped Glaze simply can't do due to the abrasive technology. This is why M205 and M205 is one of the most popular compound/polish combos out there.
If you are happy with #85, keep using it. But Meguiars has even better compounds now that are definitely worth keeping in mind when you run low on #85.

I know what you mean by using a polish for a show, some of them like Clearkote Red Machine Glaze look insanely wet but you're right, they don't offer any protection.

If you want a wax that lasts like a sealant, Collinite 476 is about as good as it gets. But generally speaking, a sealant will outlast a wax in terms of longevity. But often, a wax offers more protection than a sealant. Just have to apply it more often.
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Old 02-03-2014, 04:44 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Chad05TL
This is all you need after diamond cut number 3. And number 3 is like a polish inyour terms, but there is no oil to fake the shine.. which will come off later. This wax works great. As do some other high quality wwaxes... http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product/4601.
Yeah, I know all about #3 Machine Glaze. Similar to 3M Imperial Hand Glaze but wipes off more easily. But if you use a rotary after #85 and a wool pad, all #3 will do is temporarily hide the buffer swirls. It isn't nearly aggressive enough to remove buffer trails. Before the Rupes came out, I had to use a rotary on most German paints to get a full paint correction. Would generally use Meguiars #105 (it was before M100 came out) with either a wool pad or an orange foam cutting pad, follow with Meguiars #205 using a Meguiars yellow foam polishing pad and finish with 3M Ultrafina (now Ultrafine, part number is #06068 if I remember right) using the blue Ultrafina waffle finishing pad. Little to no chance of buffer holograms if you do it right (really soft clears like what is used on BMW jet black is an exception). But I would also wax over Ultrafina and that would seal in the look and protect the paint.

Now with the Rupes and microfiber pads, I can use M100 and follow with either HD Polish (soft paints) or Optimum Hyper Pollish (hard paints) and get the same results in two steps and zero risks of holograms or burning paint.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:03 PM
  #49  
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I need more shine!!! haha
See more profile pics


Old 02-18-2014, 08:13 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by filipinoooy
like poweflow said lightly wet sand it with 2000 grit then buff it with rubbing compound.
be very careful.
Old 02-18-2014, 08:18 PM
  #51  
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I have no use for rubbing compound on my car. That would damage way too much. But if you people wanna do that, then its your car.. go for it!!

There is more than 1 way to get a high shine. There are no set rules! Figure out what works for you and then go for it. But remember 1 thing.. You have to cause abrasion to work it down to a flat surface.. Then you polish or buff it up with a finer grade solution. If you cause too much abrasion when you work it down to "flat", you will cause yourself more work to get it to buff to a high smooth shine, as you will put too many deep scratches in the clear coat. Some of them may not come out if you abrasion it too much nd go past the clear coat into the base coat.

Last edited by Chad05TL; 02-18-2014 at 08:27 PM.
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