D2S: OSRAM XENARC 66240 CBI // vs // D2S 4300K Philips 85122+
#81
Drifting
Even if xb35 is running at 55w?
#83
Senior Moderator
D2S: OSRAM XENARC 66240 CBI // vs // D2S 4300K Philips 85122+
Originally Posted by Chad05TL
Even if xb35 is running at 55w?
#84
Senior Moderator
I've seen some folks on HIDplanet running 55w bulbs but a few have burned the inner bowls on the projectors from the extra heat from the bulbs. Also it tends to wash out the color of the HID bulb.
#85
Drifting
In my case, I already have some xb35s and new ballasts are $110. So basically i can get the new ballast for 40 dollars less than the cbi and i can be brighter and more whiter than cbi because according to trs' website, there is a color shift with the 55w ballast and the lumins are almost double. And if my bulbs burn out 25% sooner, then i have $40 left over to apply to a new pair of 50 dollar xb35s running at 55w .
And the color shift is less blue and more white. Just search it out on youtube. Plenty of exames of people showing 35w vs 55w. And i like it white.. Not blue.
So in either case, whether a guy already has a pair of xb35s or not, you can come out ahead by running xb35s at 55w IF they are truely brighter and whiter.
#86
Drifting
From what i gather, heat is not a problem on the TL because the headlights are large and they are not a sealed headlight. It breathes. But still if the xb35s get massively hot than i suppose no vented headlight is safe. But i email trs about heat already. They said i would be ok.
#87
Drifting
Long story short, the xb35s running at 55w may last only 75% as long but they are 33% the price of cbi. So you can swap out a few pairs and still come out ahead If you are truely worried about it. (assuming they are brighter and whiter). I have another email i to trs right now asking that very question.. If xb35 @ 55w is brighter than cbi @ 35w.
#88
Senior Moderator
Math is a little off there Chad..
110 ballasts + 50 for XB 35 bulbs = 160 for new 55w bulbs with 55w ballasts
Since you're drawing 55w instead of 35w, it's recommended you probably get a relay harness so that's another 25 bucks.. $185
150 for CBI's running at stock 35W, same internal headlight harness, same ballasts.
I'm all for maximum brightness but let's be practical here. 55w is necessary for the general public. To each their own though
110 ballasts + 50 for XB 35 bulbs = 160 for new 55w bulbs with 55w ballasts
Since you're drawing 55w instead of 35w, it's recommended you probably get a relay harness so that's another 25 bucks.. $185
150 for CBI's running at stock 35W, same internal headlight harness, same ballasts.
I'm all for maximum brightness but let's be practical here. 55w is necessary for the general public. To each their own though
#89
Drifting
People like you are what give azine a bad name. Argumentative and petty.
Brightness is the issue so if we do it, then do it good. Plus some newer cars appear to be running the 55w style because they are so bright. But that is just a guess.
And I dont think the TL needs another relay. But feel free to email trs and ask and post back.
I stand by my general math. You get the point jack.
Brightness is the issue so if we do it, then do it good. Plus some newer cars appear to be running the 55w style because they are so bright. But that is just a guess.
And I dont think the TL needs another relay. But feel free to email trs and ask and post back.
I stand by my general math. You get the point jack.
#90
Registered Bunny
People like you are what give azine a bad name. Argumentative and petty.
Brightness is the issue so if we do it, then do it good. Plus some newer cars appear to be running the 55w style because they are so bright. But that is just a guess.
And I dont think the TL needs another relay. But feel free to email trs and ask and post back.
I stand by my general math. You get the point jack.
Brightness is the issue so if we do it, then do it good. Plus some newer cars appear to be running the 55w style because they are so bright. But that is just a guess.
And I dont think the TL needs another relay. But feel free to email trs and ask and post back.
I stand by my general math. You get the point jack.
thoiboi was correcting the maths since you need ballasts + bulbs at the very least. The way you put it made it sound like upgrading to 55w ballasts and buying xb35 would be cheaper than CBI. Minus the practicality for most people.
You're absolutely right, if you do it, do it good. The irony is pretty strong within this one.
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thoiboi (06-25-2015)
#91
Senior Moderator
If it's argumentative and petty to lay out everything a user needs to actually start running 55w bulbs (aka facts) then yeah, I am then.
If you want to do comparisons, you've got to find a fair way to do so. By comparing $50 55w bulbs to $150 35w, you're giving future readers a biased (and wrong) answer. Someone coming in here reading this might thing, "OH YEAH, I can just go get some 55W bulbs instead of CBI's, save $100 bucks and be brighter!".
Then they'll come back and say "wait.. it's not brighter, why?" Because someone didn't mention that in order for the bulbs to be running at 55w, the ballasts must also output 55w. Also with new aftermarket ballasts, you'll need to splice into the OEM headlight harness as it won't just be Plug and Play.
Any time you're doing something out of the ordinary when it comes to electricals, it's nice to have safeguards in place so that you protect your original equipment (in this case, the OEM headlight wiring).
And like I said at the end "to each their own", we just have to give people enough information for them to make their own decisions/opinions. But if willing omit all the facts, you're providing a disservice to them and to our community; and I think THAT is a far greater crime than being 'argumentative and petty'.
If you want to do comparisons, you've got to find a fair way to do so. By comparing $50 55w bulbs to $150 35w, you're giving future readers a biased (and wrong) answer. Someone coming in here reading this might thing, "OH YEAH, I can just go get some 55W bulbs instead of CBI's, save $100 bucks and be brighter!".
Then they'll come back and say "wait.. it's not brighter, why?" Because someone didn't mention that in order for the bulbs to be running at 55w, the ballasts must also output 55w. Also with new aftermarket ballasts, you'll need to splice into the OEM headlight harness as it won't just be Plug and Play.
Any time you're doing something out of the ordinary when it comes to electricals, it's nice to have safeguards in place so that you protect your original equipment (in this case, the OEM headlight wiring).
And like I said at the end "to each their own", we just have to give people enough information for them to make their own decisions/opinions. But if willing omit all the facts, you're providing a disservice to them and to our community; and I think THAT is a far greater crime than being 'argumentative and petty'.
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polobunny (06-25-2015)
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thoiboi (06-26-2015)
#93
Drifting
Its always the same ppl that love to argue.. Pb is 1 of them. But i dont need bulbs .. I already have them.. Either way it dont matter.
The difference between 55w and 35w withg a 12v source is 4.5A vs. 3A. The wires should not have a problem with the difference. But if you really want a real world current draw then take a real world reading . the ballast is what draws the current. Trs says the 55w ballast sell is low power consumption. Not sure how it does it but they claim the oem ballast is power hungry.
Do u have anything else for me? Haha
The difference between 55w and 35w withg a 12v source is 4.5A vs. 3A. The wires should not have a problem with the difference. But if you really want a real world current draw then take a real world reading . the ballast is what draws the current. Trs says the 55w ballast sell is low power consumption. Not sure how it does it but they claim the oem ballast is power hungry.
Do u have anything else for me? Haha
#94
Drifting
#95
Senior Moderator
People like you are what give azine a bad name. Argumentative and petty.
Brightness is the issue so if we do it, then do it good. Plus some newer cars appear to be running the 55w style because they are so bright. But that is just a guess.
And I dont think the TL needs another relay. But feel free to email trs and ask and post back.
I stand by my general math. You get the point jack.
Brightness is the issue so if we do it, then do it good. Plus some newer cars appear to be running the 55w style because they are so bright. But that is just a guess.
And I dont think the TL needs another relay. But feel free to email trs and ask and post back.
I stand by my general math. You get the point jack.
A relay kit is a much safer method of hooking up the ballasts however many folks have run 60watt bulbs for the fog's and they haven't had an issue as far as I know.
#96
Drifting
The wisest thing to do is take an amp reading at the ballest with oem installed.. Then take a current reading with the new ballast, which is supposed to be low consumption. Anyway, safety is not and issue even if the current draw is just 1/2 amp more or the same or even less.
#97
Drifting
There is also another major principle that you are forgetting about. The system is FUSED! The fuse and the wire is rated to handle the load, and likely more... The fuse always snaps before the wire does. But if the amperage approaches "too high", the fuse will pop. It's a safety feature that all Engineers put in their circuit designs. So, worst case scenario, the fuse pops. Your not going to cause a fire or breech any operating conditions. A relay might be good for people that do not already have HID headlights. But the TL is equipped. The TL headlights are already on a relay. The headlights are fused at 15amps. I strongly doubt you will surpass that. Plus It is common for engineers to design any fused system to go 25% higher than the normal load. Maybe even up to 33%. A system is never engineering with a fuse higher than what the wire will carry. Anyways! 15 amps baby!! haha That's insanely high. Besides that, you would have to assume TRS is lying when they said it will work and all I need is a connector converter.
Ohms law = Power = I * E
55w = I * 12v
I =4.5 amps (rough estimate) need real world reading
.
Ohms law = Power = I * E
55w = I * 12v
I =4.5 amps (rough estimate) need real world reading
.
Last edited by Chad05TL; 06-25-2015 at 12:51 PM.
#98
Senior Moderator
There is also another major principle that you are forgetting about. The system is FUSED! The fuse and the wire is rated to handle the load, and likely more... The fuse always snaps before the wire does. But if the amperage approaches "too high", the fuse will pop. It's a safety feature that all Engineers put in their circuit designs. So, worst case scenario, the fuse pops. Your not going to cause a fire or breech any operating conditions. A relay might be good for people that do not already have HID headlights. But the TL is equipped. The TL headlights are already on a relay. The headlights are fused at 15amps. I strongly doubt you will surpass that. Plus It is common for engineers to design any fused system to go 25% higher than the normal load. Maybe even up to 33%. A system is never engineering with a fuse higher than what the wire will carry. Anyways! 15 amps baby!! haha That's insanely high. Besides that, you would have to assume TRS is lying when they said it will work and all I need is a connector converter.
Ohms law = Power = I * E
55w = I * 12v
I =4.5 amps (rough estimate) need real world reading
.
Ohms law = Power = I * E
55w = I * 12v
I =4.5 amps (rough estimate) need real world reading
.
Factory: 35W= I * 14.4V -> I= 2.43A
Upgrade: 55W= I * 14.4V -> I=3.82A
If they are on the same fuse, then it'd be:
Factory: 75W= I * 14.4V -> I= 4.86A
Upgrade: 110W= I * 14.4V -> I=7.64A
However, the ballasts when igniting push a very high voltage to ignite the bulbs since they have a very high resistance to be ignited. It's in the neighborhood of 10KV
With that said, someone has already done the research:
35W/ 55W Ballasts Roundup [Archive] - HiDplanet : The Official Automotive Lighting Forum
TL;DR-> 35W pull about 8 Amps on startup, 55 pull about 10A on startup. IF they are on the same fuse, it'd be 16A and 20A which doesn't make sense as it's a 15A fuse.
#99
Drifting
Ok i will read that this evening .. Im off this afternoon going to the lake 2 run. But hold up a sec. And the ballasts are 50w not 55w. But if u say it is 14.4v then ok.. we can use that number for calculation. Let me review the schematics tonight
Last edited by Chad05TL; 06-25-2015 at 01:36 PM.
#100
Drifting
You are correct that the current from each bulbs adds together for a total current draw from the single 15a fuse. And i also agree that the current draw from the ballast is likely h8gher while the voltage drop builds over the igniter and bulb. But according to industry standards a power rating is always stated at max load and max draw. Telecom equipment, which is my expertise, manufacturers always give max power requirements when the device is working the hardest. Like every slot utilized with the most consumptive cards and the environment is at a high temp so all fans are blowing at max speed.. That condition is max load. I think the ballasts are the same way. They should not draw more than 50 watts max, even during the startup period. Then it may idle back down from 50w a little bit after the voltage drop over the bulb has reached the peak volts. Voltage and current are a reciprocal. So as the volts increase over the bulb, the current probably reduces somewhat. But i think it does all that under the 50w rating . subject to testing. So basically it sounds like we still have plenty room for the 50w ballasts. The other thing i would lime to verify is the voltage source at the ballast. 14.4 sounds high but it may be possible.
#101
Drifting
by the way, regarding your 10kv comment.. That's all fine and dandy but you have to do some hand-waving on that sort of data because the ballast is designed to induce voltage from the car's lower level. Transformers also use inductance to "step up" voltage from the car input level. And according to wiki (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_ballast) ballasts are designed to be "friendly" on current draw. But you know, I already know that because these inductors are designed to achieve a certain goal based on the supply voltage and current. It's similar to GM's HEI system they created way back in the 80's. HEI stands for "High Energy Ignition". Basically they also take the same volts from a 12v battery and alternator system and step it up. So, that technology is not new. So I don't worry about trying to re-engineer or troubleshoot a system like that because all you can do is replace a module if something goes bad. Anyway, back to the headlights, to me its not that impressive when you say Kilovolts. This is why you don't want to tamper with the connection from the bulb to the igniter to the ballast. Its really high voltage and you cannot measure it with a meter. So, all we are concerned with is the ballast input voltage. And TRS says it is compatible with the TL.. Important: I mentioned that the voltage and current are reciprocals of each other, which would imply that they are "inversely proportional" while the resistance stays constant. But the link above also says that some ballasts can fluctuate the resistance too! To keep from impacting the current source too much. So how they do that, I have NO IDEA! haha So basically, someone might have created a quality ballast that doesn't require as much current as the OEM style.
Read this:
D2S: Morimoto XB55
Fast, Friendly and Efficient: Power hungry ballasts never work well with tricky CanBus systems, but the new XB55 ballast consume < 5A on ignition without compromising their reasonably quick warm up speed. That's much less than Denso, Mitsubishi, FastBright, and the old Morimoto too, which makes their ability to reach full intensity a more efficient process
REF: Morimoto XB55 OEM HID D2S Ballasts xenon D2S D2R AMP Denso Matsushita Bosch Hella Ballast 3Five 5Five
Morimoto XB55 has got it figured out with only 5amps of current.
Morimoto XB55 is only a 50w ballast
So check this out. 5a x 2 = 10 amps. The fuse is 15a. Thus, we have a 33% - 50% buffer (however you want to calculate it). That is a SAFE design. So forget the added wiring harness. And we already have a relayed system. And we have a big headlight and it is vented, (not sealed). Great for heat dissipation.
.
Read this:
D2S: Morimoto XB55
Fast, Friendly and Efficient: Power hungry ballasts never work well with tricky CanBus systems, but the new XB55 ballast consume < 5A on ignition without compromising their reasonably quick warm up speed. That's much less than Denso, Mitsubishi, FastBright, and the old Morimoto too, which makes their ability to reach full intensity a more efficient process
REF: Morimoto XB55 OEM HID D2S Ballasts xenon D2S D2R AMP Denso Matsushita Bosch Hella Ballast 3Five 5Five
Morimoto XB55 has got it figured out with only 5amps of current.
Morimoto XB55 is only a 50w ballast
So check this out. 5a x 2 = 10 amps. The fuse is 15a. Thus, we have a 33% - 50% buffer (however you want to calculate it). That is a SAFE design. So forget the added wiring harness. And we already have a relayed system. And we have a big headlight and it is vented, (not sealed). Great for heat dissipation.
.
Last edited by Chad05TL; 06-25-2015 at 06:37 PM.
#102
Drifting
I just had a memory from 1992. I remember in class at oSu, we had a choice of placing a Voltage source on a design, or we could place a current source on the design. A voltage source, naturally, the voltage remains constant and the current fluctuates based on the resistance. But a Current source will supply a current that is constant. Note the stats above say the Morimoto has less than 5amps of current... as if it is oblivious to the resistance. So we can forget about resistance since the issue is Current.. So, I think they have some circuitry in there that regulates the current to a specific amount, by means of voltage and resistance fluctuations. It mentions all that in the wiki link. So we don't have to calculate resistance in anything if they say "the current is below 5amps each".. That's all we care about.
Last edited by Chad05TL; 06-25-2015 at 06:46 PM.
#103
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Well, it's just that you asked a question. So people answered and maybe didn't give you the answer you were looking for?
You glazed over the guy that posted that he melted shit and then put in the CBI and is happy.
I had cheap ddm for years...when they went pink, I tried to get another set and they were wayyyy too blue (hadn't shifted yet and I'd already matched all my low/fog/fog to them). Tried the mori's...naw...tried the phillips 85122+ super bright but a little too yellow...tried another...too yellow...mori's looked greenish when looking at the lens (that was polished but doesn't have the best uv coat on it anymore so it had a yellow hue...yellow + blue made green for me...)
I'm a dumbass now that I recall...I bought the CBI...couldn't stomach the price tag on them and sold them to a friend at friend pricing...then tried to go the cheap route figuring it could be just as good...ended up REbuying the CBI at full price a month later. Once you try them, you'll only want them. I don't get messing with your oem ballast since they are inherently designed to seal the bottom of the light (unless I missed where yours are shot) just to bump to 55 watts.
I can also attest to the 55 watts because I ran a decent quality OPT7 55watt 5K kit in my wife's SRX with the DRL voltage capacitors and although hers look great...when we drive side by side my lighting definitely looks more intense and more defined.
Does that mean you'll have the same experience? No. But in my opinion, you can't keep bangin 3's hopin to brag about them adding up to a 10.
If you already spent the money, don't ask us or try to justify to us...try them out and report back!
You glazed over the guy that posted that he melted shit and then put in the CBI and is happy.
I had cheap ddm for years...when they went pink, I tried to get another set and they were wayyyy too blue (hadn't shifted yet and I'd already matched all my low/fog/fog to them). Tried the mori's...naw...tried the phillips 85122+ super bright but a little too yellow...tried another...too yellow...mori's looked greenish when looking at the lens (that was polished but doesn't have the best uv coat on it anymore so it had a yellow hue...yellow + blue made green for me...)
I'm a dumbass now that I recall...I bought the CBI...couldn't stomach the price tag on them and sold them to a friend at friend pricing...then tried to go the cheap route figuring it could be just as good...ended up REbuying the CBI at full price a month later. Once you try them, you'll only want them. I don't get messing with your oem ballast since they are inherently designed to seal the bottom of the light (unless I missed where yours are shot) just to bump to 55 watts.
I can also attest to the 55 watts because I ran a decent quality OPT7 55watt 5K kit in my wife's SRX with the DRL voltage capacitors and although hers look great...when we drive side by side my lighting definitely looks more intense and more defined.
Does that mean you'll have the same experience? No. But in my opinion, you can't keep bangin 3's hopin to brag about them adding up to a 10.
If you already spent the money, don't ask us or try to justify to us...try them out and report back!
#104
Drifting
I have no idea what u are talking about or bangin 3s.. U could be drunk or high.. Who knows but who burned up their headlights? Yes i did not see that post a link.. TL owner? No im not trying to sell you anything. Maybe u should reread some of the other comments and concerns...
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thoiboi (06-26-2015)
#106
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
So I'm high or drunk because you're too dense to get a quip?
Dude, buy and install some 55 watt bulbs since TRS told you it's okay and you already bought them and you want to do that because it's better and it won't melt and it's awesome.
but stop wasting OUR fucking time with your insults and asking questions you're not interested in hearing the answers to.
For someone that was in college in 1992 (if I read THAT right)...you sure are immature.
Dude, buy and install some 55 watt bulbs since TRS told you it's okay and you already bought them and you want to do that because it's better and it won't melt and it's awesome.
but stop wasting OUR fucking time with your insults and asking questions you're not interested in hearing the answers to.
For someone that was in college in 1992 (if I read THAT right)...you sure are immature.
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thoiboi (06-26-2015)
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thoiboi (06-26-2015)
#108
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (2)
So I'm high or drunk because you're too dense to get a quip?
Dude, buy and install some 55 watt bulbs since TRS told you it's okay and you already bought them and you want to do that because it's better and it won't melt and it's awesome.
but stop wasting OUR fucking time with your insults and asking questions you're not interested in hearing the answers to.
For someone that was in college in 1992 (if I read THAT right)...you sure are immature.
Dude, buy and install some 55 watt bulbs since TRS told you it's okay and you already bought them and you want to do that because it's better and it won't melt and it's awesome.
but stop wasting OUR fucking time with your insults and asking questions you're not interested in hearing the answers to.
For someone that was in college in 1992 (if I read THAT right)...you sure are immature.
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thoiboi (06-26-2015)
#109
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Then mission accomplished then!
hahahaha...I'm pretty sure he'll dismiss me with some claim that I'm a lunatic or on that purple drank or something.
I just get fired up with a small handful of people on this site that are either know it alls that don't know it all...or ask for help or opinions and then have the audacity to get condescending with their delusions of grandeur. You're so smart, stop asking and start DOING and sharing with others instead of taking taking taking.
#110
Drifting
Im glad to see your posts. It nicely illustrates the true nature of so many on www.acurazine.com and confirms my comments from above.
#111
Instructor
iTrader: (2)
Just ordered a set of CBI's from Powerbulbs.com. Came out to 153 CDN with free shipping. It comes from the UK. Cheaper than retrofitsource and its not clear if the price at retrofitsource is for the pair where as powerbullb it states its for the pair.
Use Style20 coupon code for 20% off!
Use Style20 coupon code for 20% off!
Powerbulb.com is not having a 25% of sale!!!
the code is FOS25.
I purchased when they were 20% off
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#112
iWhine S/C 6MT TL
iTrader: (1)
Im glad to see your posts. It nicely illustrates the true nature of so many on Acura | TL Integra MDX | News, Reviews, Owners, For Sale - Acurazine.com and confirms my comments from above.
Alright Chad. These guys are always helpful. They answered your questions. Take it for what it's worth. I'll be a bit abrasive, if you don't like the way acurazine has "become", then, simply log out or take it to PM's. Trust me Chad, if you think that this is bad for Acurazine, wait till you see the most current generation of 3rd gen TL owners... It would make you wish you weren't alive anymore. You can always upgrade from the 3rd gen TL and buy yourself an RLX..
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cu2wagon (06-26-2015)
#113
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Dude, I'd like to think that at over 6 years and all the DIY and PM's answered and solutions I've come up with trial and error and never keeping them to myself. I'm really insulted when some fkng condescending emotional baby says something like that.
I see why Matt and other long term helpful people on this site stop bothering. People like Chad make me have a GO FK YOURSELF reaction to a lot of Newbies when they ask a question. Which isn't fair since some of them are not tools.
#114
Drifting
Then mission accomplished then!
hahahaha...I'm pretty sure he'll dismiss me with some claim that I'm a lunatic or on that purple drank or something.
I just get fired up with a small handful of people on this site that are either know it alls that don't know it all...or ask for help or opinions and then have the audacity to get condescending with their delusions of grandeur. You're so smart, stop asking and start DOING and sharing with others instead of taking taking taking.
Last edited by Chad05TL; 06-26-2015 at 09:11 AM.
#115
Drifting
Dude, I'd like to think that at over 6 years and all the DIY and PM's answered and solutions I've come up with trial and error and never keeping them to myself. I'm really insulted when some fkng condescending emotional baby says something like that.
I see why Matt and other long term helpful people on this site stop bothering. People like Chad make me have a GO FK YOURSELF reaction to a lot of Newbies when they ask a question. Which isn't fair since some of them are not tools.
#116
Drifting
Alright Chad. These guys are always helpful. They answered your questions. Take it for what it's worth. I'll be a bit abrasive, if you don't like the way acurazine has "become", then, simply log out or take it to PM's. Trust me Chad, if you think that this is bad for Acurazine, wait till you see the most current generation of 3rd gen TL owners... It would make you wish you weren't alive anymore. You can always upgrade from the 3rd gen TL and buy yourself an RLX..
Last edited by Chad05TL; 06-26-2015 at 09:09 AM.
#118
Drifting
#119
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
Do you have short term memory loss?
Did you post this and then forget you could look the information up yourself?
Did you post this and not get the answer you wanted so finally decided to put your big boy pants up and find the answer yourself?
Here's your answer. Leave stock ballasts alone, stop being a cheap fk with your little calculations on how man extra big macs you'll be able to buy if you just put in the cheaper/lesser bulbs...and buy the CBI. As a matter of fact, why don't you point blank ask TRS whether or not they think the CBI are better and brighter as they do the most testing on lumen output of anyone out there and they can probably tell you. For YOUR information since you're deaf, and probably high and drunk...I bought my CBI from them.
Did you post this and then forget you could look the information up yourself?
Did you post this and not get the answer you wanted so finally decided to put your big boy pants up and find the answer yourself?
Here's your answer. Leave stock ballasts alone, stop being a cheap fk with your little calculations on how man extra big macs you'll be able to buy if you just put in the cheaper/lesser bulbs...and buy the CBI. As a matter of fact, why don't you point blank ask TRS whether or not they think the CBI are better and brighter as they do the most testing on lumen output of anyone out there and they can probably tell you. For YOUR information since you're deaf, and probably high and drunk...I bought my CBI from them.
#120
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
That doesn't make me a moderator...just means I can commit to getting people together to enjoy local car meets. If you are interested in that role, I'd be glad to give you pointers via PM.
College in 1992 before the widespread use of computers and the world wide web and aim must have been brutal. Really made you grumpy.
College in 1992 before the widespread use of computers and the world wide web and aim must have been brutal. Really made you grumpy.