Confirmation on clutch, please
 

The clutch pedal is super sticky and likes to spring back up to the top especially when the car is cold. After it warms up (drive it 20 or so miles) that all goes away. I am guessing this is master and or slave cylinder. I think it may have gotten air in the system the sticky pedal comes and goes. it may not do it again for 4 months or it maybe sticky in the morning.

the worse problem is:
I just noticed in 6th gear cruising at 65 if I wot the rpm jump about 500 then it grabs. I can feel the slip when it jumps that 500 rpm. it also does it in 4th and 5th gear. BUT it doesn't seem to slip in 1st taking off or 2nd gear. I haven't been trying to make it slip except those few test times. I have been easy on it since its a terrible time to get it replaced.

Dealer quoted me 1700ish but didn't mention flywheel which i thought was strange. do they really replace the clutch and not replace the flywheel? I thought dual mass could not be resurfaced.

any suggestions on where to buy parts from ?
Tia

2006 TL MT

Acura of Peoria is where I get my parts, very competitive pricing, and outstanding customer service. However, there are other vendors on the forum who are also fantastic. Link: Acura Parts | OEM Acura Parts | Factory Acura Parts

As for the flywheel, you're correct. They should be replacing the set.

How many miles on the car? The only way a master/slave cylinder would be responsible for clutch slippage is if it's getting stuck engaged, but I think this is an unlikely scenario compared to a worn clutch/pp.

it has 172k on it

any idea why I only see/feel slippage in the higher gears? I would think that 1st and 2nd would slip before the higher gears would

More load in higher gears. If you aren't the original owner, then there's no way of knowing how the clutch was treated before you got the car. At 170k, I'd say it's about time to replace it. Although A second opinion never hurt. :whistle: anyone else?

I would like to know the answer myself just because im curious.
I did find a shop that specializes in honda/acura and will allow me to bring my own parts. Can some one give me a list of parts I will need. also it list 2 clutch sets on oem parts how can I tell which is the correct one?

38900-RCA-A01 $186.88
22105-PGE-325 $291.26

38900-RCA-A01 is the Air Conditioning Compressor Clutch, not what you need. 22105-PGE-325 is the clutch set you need. You'll also need the 22100-RCA-006 flywheel

http://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-pa...t/clutch-scat/

didnt even notice it was ac clutch set... thanks
so I feel like I am missing a part do they just need these three?

FLYWHEEL
Part Number: 22100-RCA-006

CLUTCH SET
Part Number: 22105-PGE-325

BEARING, PILOT
Part Number: 91006-PGE-008

The Pilot Bearing comes with the flywheel - you can tell because the number 4 points to both the bearing and flywheel, just like the clutch set comes with the clutch disk and pressure plate

so you think i only need these 2? the reason I asked is the mechanic listed off three parts that I needed. I didn't write down the 3 he mentioned because I was driving at the time.
FLYWHEEL
Part Number: 22100-RCA-006

CLUTCH SET
Part Number: 22105-PGE-325

Well, technically there are 4.

Flywheel, Clutch Disk, Pressure Plate, and Throwout Bearing. From your original post, it sounds like he just left out the flywheel.

I would not replace the flywheel unless it shows some damage on the mating surface. The clutch/pressure plate are a combo from Acura so naturally replace both of them. The throwout bearing I would also replace for insurance reasons.

i had mine replaced on my last car.

Buy the LUK clutch from Rockauto or wherever. But do not use the throw out bearing. the one that came with mine broke within minutes of installation and was replaced with an OEM.


They also didn't replace my flywheel. Just cleaned, examined, and reinstalled.

If the flywheel is within the service limits, then it's fine. Otherwise, it should be replaced: resurfacing is strongly not recommended. There's no other way to know if it's good or not without pulling the transmission. Personally, I'd recommend replacing it since pulling the trans is a lot of work, and you probably don't want your car sitting in the shop, waiting for parts to arrive, just because you waited to order them to take a measurement.

I have kind of decided to replace fly wheel, clutch, throw out bearing and axle at the same time. i still don't understand why I am not getting slippage during take off honestly that seems like a fly wheel issue but I am no mechanic not even a shade tree. But if clutch was bad wouldn't it slip all the time especially when torque is the highest during take off.
I would like to see a pole on how many replaced the clutch without replacing the flywheel. i found one post that claimed his new clutch was toast after 40 or 50k because he didn't change the flywheel

Engine load is the reason it doesn't slip in lower gears. So, the reason it slips is because the clutch grip (friction) on the flywheel can't overcome the difference in rotational force between the two. The engine runs and spins the flywheel, thus creating a rotational force. The clutch (attached to the wheels through the transmission) resists this force because of inertia (it's tendency to stay in its current state of motion). Another way to think about it is Newton's third law of motion: every force has an equal but opposite force. So when the flywheel exerts a rotational force, the clutch exerts an exactly opposite rotational force so that they are stuck together (static).

Finally, the difference between the gears means there is a difference in inertia. In a low gear, the clutch "tendency to stay in its current state of motion" is much weaker than in a high gear. Proof? Engine braking in a lower gear slows you down much more than in a higher gear. Since the inertia is higher in higher gears, the clutch slips because it can't overcome the difference. This is the reason that higher gears will slip first, when the clutch starts to go.


As for replacing the flywheel, you'll hear lots of anecdotes and preferences. But you simply can't go wrong by replacing it. If you don't you'll always have that uncertainty. Just be glad you don't have a type s because the flywheel costs nearly twice as much.

I agree on replacing the flywheel as to who knows if or when it will need to be replace especially since you are at 170K.


Also, OP I am not sure if you have done the check valve delete and the GM friction modified synchromesh. If not I would take advantage of it when replace the parts.

Vlad did a good job of explaining what's happening. :thumbsup:

Don't forget to replace your rear main seal while you are in there and you might as well think about replacing the motor/trans mounts if yours are on originals. I am currently in the process of replacing my clutch and flywheel on my TL and these are items I am replacing because it's easier to do now and my TL has close to 150k miles.

I was quoted $2100 for parts and labor to do replace the flywheel and clutch with OEM replacements. I decided to do it myself and save a few :2cents:

91214-RCA-A01 OIL SEAL (80X98X8) (NOK)

^what kind of tools does one need to DIY this? I've had my rear main replaced by the dealer about 50k miles ago. Recently did the B14 service and found a slow oil leak near the clutch. Either they didn't replace it correctly or damaged something else when doing so. I'll spare my rant regarding the integrity of the dealer's work, but would be quite interested in pulling the trans to investigate this before it becomes more serious.

Also, thanks!

just for an update on prices.
local shop with decent reputation
2200 they supply the parts (oem)
800 if I bring my own parts
Dealer
1800-2900 i never could get a straight answer out of them
a shop that specializes in honda/acura
1100 I bring my own parts
2200 if they supply the parts

I think im going to throw a bunch of parts at the honda/acura specialist and hope he cuts me a deal on labor since they will already have it apart. if not some of this i will do my self.


the extra stuff i want them to do not included in any of my quotes.
slave and master cylinder for clutch
check motor and tranny mounts
axle both sides
rear main seal
maybe a full brake fluid flush

You can also check out our XLR8 clutch kits, we have great pricing on them and free shipping for black friday! They offer stock pedal feel and come with a pressure plate, disc, flywheel and release bearing. Pilot bearing not included.
XLR8 Clutch System - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!

I bought my 06 manual almost a year ago now, from FL. 1previous owner, 60yr old polish guy ha.
Drove it home to MN. My pedal stuck to the floor twice last winter, only when it was insanely cold (around or below zero degrees), but this worried me as well). Under WOT, it wouldn't (120k), and still doesn't (133k) slip. However, when accelerating in 1st, 2nd under WOT, and shifting at redline, the RPMs drop slowly down to where they should be (even after the clutch is completely disengaged it'd take maybe a second or so) UNLESS you literally jump off the clutch pedal and absolutely nail the shift. I've heard this is SMC/CMC, also heard doing the check valve delete fixes this, but Idk.

I also hoped/thought that perhaps there was air in the system causing the pedal to stick, but since it never happened after those two times when severely cold, I never did anything about it (oops).

I would also suggest replace the flywheel. Better safe than sorry, and with your mileage, why wouldn't you.

Vlad did an excellent job covering the rest!

(Not sure any of this helped, just figured I'd chime in to add more info)

^ have you changed your fluid out? If it is prohibited al then I would definitely bleed the system at the slave cylinder. It could have caused your pedal issues in the cold weather as the brake fluid in he system absorbs moisture over time.
You can do the check valve delete at the same time

No, I have not. I know/figure/hope that would do the trick and be it, but no, I have not yet done that ha. Problem occurred twice in a short span and not since, so I left it and worked on other things that arose. Come Christmas/New Years, I have a week and a half off & won't have to go anywhere, so I plan on taking care of all the little things then :)

TY for confirming my preconceived notion RE bleeding the system as well. Hope it works ha

is it true that LUK makes the oem parts for our cars? the cost difference is pretty significant

Yes LUK. Amazon has them pretty cheap

i noticed that. I figured I would ask but may go that route

I would pop open the flywheel cover first, you can see the bottom of the seal by opening it up. I just noticed oil around the bottom of the trans case and engine block mating surfaces. It's not a terrible leak but it is leaking, but the whole bell-housing was covered in oily clutch dust. :yuck:

Tools:
-Large Jackstands, I used a combination of wooden cribbing in the back and massive jack stands upfront. Link taking about wooden cribbing ->Wood cribbing block DIY for raising the car in addition to jack stands | VW TDI forum, Audi, Porsche, and Chevy Cruze diesel forum
-High Lift Jack
-Engine hoist (trans removal)
-Engine support (4 or 3 point) I made my own since I had steel tubing from another project.
-Metric Sockets and extensions of all sizes
-As much space as you can get
-Another means of transportation while your ride is down.:thumbsup:

I will put a post up with pictures in the performance section once I finish up. I am using XLR8's DD FW/Clutch package. :thumbsup:

LUK is the way to go! OEM parts without the OEM name on them or the high price. Be sure to change the flywheel along with the clutch kit. Rockauto has the best prices on the clutch kit and flywheel.

https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...talled-898541/
https://acurazine.com/forums/problem...clutch-929602/
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It wont slip in the lower gears unless you go WOT.
LuK parts for sure.
Just had mine done, it was slipping in higher gears under load. Normal driving it felt fine, but it would slip when I got into it.
$700 from a local speed shop with my own parts, just the clutch, flywheel, and 3 bottles of gm syncromesh. $1200 for everything.