Clear Bra
Clear Bra
Hey All,
Sorry if this is a repost, but couldnt find anything that answered my question.
I'm interested in getting a clear bra installed on my TL, but I've noticed that they are MUCH cheaper on Ebay. Does anybody know how hard they are to install and whether it can be done without taking it to a shop?
Also, anybody have experience with particular brands (i.e. 3M)?
If it is difficult to install, anybody in the Toronto area know of any shops that would install it?
Just trying to gather as much info as I can before I buy it. Thanks!!
Sorry if this is a repost, but couldnt find anything that answered my question.
I'm interested in getting a clear bra installed on my TL, but I've noticed that they are MUCH cheaper on Ebay. Does anybody know how hard they are to install and whether it can be done without taking it to a shop?
Also, anybody have experience with particular brands (i.e. 3M)?
If it is difficult to install, anybody in the Toronto area know of any shops that would install it?
Just trying to gather as much info as I can before I buy it. Thanks!!
I watched my installer do the installation and it looked very difficult. I can see you doing the hood by yourself, but I had the bumper done as well and it took 2 people. You don't want to have the 3M material touching the floor. Otherwise you'll get dirt between the 3M material and your car. It took 2 guys about 5 hours to do the hood, bumper, mirrors, fenders, door edges and a portion of the rear bumper. Plus the installer had to do some custom trimming with the exacto-knife. He did not scratch the paint at all. I doubt if I could've done this myself.
He used the X-Pel patterns which on my TL covered about 20" of the hood. Some patterns cover less, so beware. Check out this website http://www.xpel.com/
He used the X-Pel patterns which on my TL covered about 20" of the hood. Some patterns cover less, so beware. Check out this website http://www.xpel.com/
Originally Posted by pvansh
Hey All,
Sorry if this is a repost, but couldnt find anything that answered my question.
I'm interested in getting a clear bra installed on my TL, but I've noticed that they are MUCH cheaper on Ebay. Does anybody know how hard they are to install and whether it can be done without taking it to a shop?
Also, anybody have experience with particular brands (i.e. 3M)?
If it is difficult to install, anybody in the Toronto area know of any shops that would install it?
Just trying to gather as much info as I can before I buy it. Thanks!!
Sorry if this is a repost, but couldnt find anything that answered my question.
I'm interested in getting a clear bra installed on my TL, but I've noticed that they are MUCH cheaper on Ebay. Does anybody know how hard they are to install and whether it can be done without taking it to a shop?
Also, anybody have experience with particular brands (i.e. 3M)?
If it is difficult to install, anybody in the Toronto area know of any shops that would install it?
Just trying to gather as much info as I can before I buy it. Thanks!!
This thread will answer your "particular brand" question. There are only a few companies who manufacture PPF. 3M, CPFilms (Llumar), Venture Tape and Avery to name a few.
This thread might answer your "DIY" question. I highly recommend getting it profesionally installed.
Originally Posted by pvansh
If it is difficult to install, anybody in the Toronto area know of any shops that would install it?
Doing the bumper as well would have been a 2 person job, a couple of hours, and would cost about $500.
Originally Posted by Bplayer
I had the hood and fender recently installed by Chip Guard, 416-407-5489, for C$280. It was a 1 person job and took 30 minutes. It looks good, but only covers about 6-9" of the hood.
Doing the bumper as well would have been a 2 person job, a couple of hours, and would cost about $500.
Doing the bumper as well would have been a 2 person job, a couple of hours, and would cost about $500.
I called salesguy after I bought the car. He said half nose is around 300 and full is around 700. Anyway I asked him "does it make $700 difference when I trade this car in?" He said "No". Since then I don't bother.
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I'm looking for someone reputable here in NOVA to apply the 3m Clear Bra and tint my windows. Anybody have any suggestions? What are costs for 3G TL's? And I'm interested in the deluxe package Clear Bra, not just the standard...
Originally Posted by Actuary
I called salesguy after I bought the car. He said half nose is around 300 and full is around 700. Anyway I asked him "does it make $700 difference when I trade this car in?" He said "No". Since then I don't bother.
When you go to trade the car in and it is full of paint chips on the front, your car will be devalued.
My personal experience with my last trade more then convince me of it when I compared to the previous trade for the same type of vehicle but had paint chips on the front end.
frenchnew
Originally Posted by anthracite06TLNAV
I'm looking for someone reputable here in NOVA to apply the 3m Clear Bra and tint my windows. Anybody have any suggestions? What are costs for 3G TL's? And I'm interested in the deluxe package Clear Bra, not just the standard...
NOVA??? can you please elaborate for a Canadian citizen?
Best regards
frenchnew
Originally Posted by frenchnew
The saleguys lied to you!
When you go to trade the car in and it is full of paint chips on the front, your car will be devalued.
My personal experience with my last trade more then convince me of it when I compared to the previous trade for the same type of vehicle but had paint chips on the front end.
frenchnew
When you go to trade the car in and it is full of paint chips on the front, your car will be devalued.
My personal experience with my last trade more then convince me of it when I compared to the previous trade for the same type of vehicle but had paint chips on the front end.
frenchnew
we lose about 2~3K or more (depends on yr/model etc) automatically when trading in anyway. 3 times when i was buying my new car i asked for trading calculations. i did trade-in once on my POS ford cuz i didn't even want to try to sell that POS. the other 2 honda products i came out total ~5K ahead by selling them locally. (6% sales tax calculated). my point is if that $700 is really that important to you, spend a little time selling it privately. clear bra or not i think you'll come out ahead.
Originally Posted by anthracite06TLNAV
Northern Virginia (my apologies)...
Thanks, as my initial deduction was Nova Scotia.
As for installer, I can't really reccomend one in your neighbourhood.
Maybe a call to the local Trim Line in your area?
Best regards
frenchnew
Originally Posted by anthracite06TLNAV
Northern Virginia (my apologies)...
I've used an alternative to the 3M film for close to seven years now. I found the 3M would dull over time. What I do is have the body shop I deal with apply aluminumized clear to the surface being protected. First the surface to be cleared is masked off. This works very well because you get the desired angles and surfaces to be covered without having to compromise with the constraints of the 3M film. The surface is then etched with a product that dulls the factory clear and allows the aluminumized clear to be applied. It is then applied over several coats and left to dry for 12 hours. Aluminumized clear is the same product applied to factory wheels. It is extremely durable yet does not become as hard as factory clears coats. This allows for a surface that is able to withstand contact from road debris. The finished product is just beautiful. Its looks like a factory clear coat and can applied to most difficult of angles. Once the masking tape is removed you have a very slight ridge than you have to look for. And it will not fade or yellow.
The last four vehicles I have had done with this procedure have been new vehicles and I have yet to receive a single chip. This includes a pickup that is for farm use and sees a few gravel roads. I've also had this procedure done to the lower rockers of my Grand National and corvette as I hate splash guards. You cannot see the finished product and no chipping since its been applied.
It may be a consideration for you.
Terry
The last four vehicles I have had done with this procedure have been new vehicles and I have yet to receive a single chip. This includes a pickup that is for farm use and sees a few gravel roads. I've also had this procedure done to the lower rockers of my Grand National and corvette as I hate splash guards. You cannot see the finished product and no chipping since its been applied.
It may be a consideration for you.
Terry
Originally Posted by teranfon
I've used an alternative to the 3M film for close to seven years now. I found the 3M would dull over time. What I do is have the body shop I deal with apply aluminumized clear to the surface being protected. First the surface to be cleared is masked off. This works very well because you get the desired angles and surfaces to be covered without having to compromise with the constraints of the 3M film. The surface is then etched with a product that dulls the factory clear and allows the aluminumized clear to be applied. It is then applied over several coats and left to dry for 12 hours. Aluminumized clear is the same product applied to factory wheels. It is extremely durable yet does not become as hard as factory clears coats. This allows for a surface that is able to withstand contact from road debris. The finished product is just beautiful. Its looks like a factory clear coat and can applied to most difficult of angles. Once the masking tape is removed you have a very slight ridge than you have to look for. And it will not fade or yellow.
The last four vehicles I have had done with this procedure have been new vehicles and I have yet to receive a single chip. This includes a pickup that is for farm use and sees a few gravel roads. I've also had this procedure done to the lower rockers of my Grand National and corvette as I hate splash guards. You cannot see the finished product and no chipping since its been applied.
It may be a consideration for you.
Terry
The last four vehicles I have had done with this procedure have been new vehicles and I have yet to receive a single chip. This includes a pickup that is for farm use and sees a few gravel roads. I've also had this procedure done to the lower rockers of my Grand National and corvette as I hate splash guards. You cannot see the finished product and no chipping since its been applied.
It may be a consideration for you.
Terry
Originally Posted by teranfon
I've used an alternative to the 3M film for close to seven years now. I found the 3M would dull over time. What I do is have the body shop I deal with apply aluminumized clear to the surface being protected. First the surface to be cleared is masked off. This works very well because you get the desired angles and surfaces to be covered without having to compromise with the constraints of the 3M film. The surface is then etched with a product that dulls the factory clear and allows the aluminumized clear to be applied. It is then applied over several coats and left to dry for 12 hours. Aluminumized clear is the same product applied to factory wheels. It is extremely durable yet does not become as hard as factory clears coats. This allows for a surface that is able to withstand contact from road debris. The finished product is just beautiful. Its looks like a factory clear coat and can applied to most difficult of angles. Once the masking tape is removed you have a very slight ridge than you have to look for. And it will not fade or yellow.
The last four vehicles I have had done with this procedure have been new vehicles and I have yet to receive a single chip. This includes a pickup that is for farm use and sees a few gravel roads. I've also had this procedure done to the lower rockers of my Grand National and corvette as I hate splash guards. You cannot see the finished product and no chipping since its been applied.
It may be a consideration for you.
Terry
The last four vehicles I have had done with this procedure have been new vehicles and I have yet to receive a single chip. This includes a pickup that is for farm use and sees a few gravel roads. I've also had this procedure done to the lower rockers of my Grand National and corvette as I hate splash guards. You cannot see the finished product and no chipping since its been applied.
It may be a consideration for you.
Terry
hcekc:
Surprisingly, not too much more than the film. He actually prefers to work with this instead of the film. The total process is a maximum of about three hours. Four hours at $70.00 an hour is $210.00 plus material.
Hawhyen51:
I'll take some photos for you in the next day or two.
Terry
Surprisingly, not too much more than the film. He actually prefers to work with this instead of the film. The total process is a maximum of about three hours. Four hours at $70.00 an hour is $210.00 plus material.
Hawhyen51:
I'll take some photos for you in the next day or two.
Terry
Originally Posted by hcekc
I watched my installer do the installation and it looked very difficult. I can see you doing the hood by yourself, but I had the bumper done as well and it took 2 people. You don't want to have the 3M material touching the floor. Otherwise you'll get dirt between the 3M material and your car. It took 2 guys about 5 hours to do the hood, bumper, mirrors, fenders, door edges and a portion of the rear bumper. Plus the installer had to do some custom trimming with the exacto-knife. He did not scratch the paint at all. I doubt if I could've done this myself.
He used the X-Pel patterns which on my TL covered about 20" of the hood. Some patterns cover less, so beware. Check out this website http://www.xpel.com/
He used the X-Pel patterns which on my TL covered about 20" of the hood. Some patterns cover less, so beware. Check out this website http://www.xpel.com/
If we can help in anyway please let us know. For those that arent aware of who we are. RockBlocker is your only Clear Bra Suppotring Vendor to Acurazine. We exclusively use 3M ScotchGard for many reasons. One being it has the nicest clear coat and finish on the market.
I saw a comment about it dulling and the only thing I can say is that the person(s) are not aware or dont take the time to wax and care for the film very well. I wax mine everytime I wax the car. Which is too often (weekly) but hey people look at the car all the time.
Hopefully we can be of help to some of you.
Hawyhen51 - How goes? Long time to talk
I saw a comment about it dulling and the only thing I can say is that the person(s) are not aware or dont take the time to wax and care for the film very well. I wax mine everytime I wax the car. Which is too often (weekly) but hey people look at the car all the time.
Hopefully we can be of help to some of you.
Hawyhen51 - How goes? Long time to talk
Originally Posted by RockBlocker
Hawyhen51 - How goes? Long time to talk
Hawhyen51
Here are some photos that you requested. I hope they come through. I apologize to anyone if they are too large.
As stated before, all vehicles are done with aluminumized clear. The first photo is of my F150. A vehicle used mainly for farm use and sees gravel on a regular basis. After 130 000 km. no hood chips as of yet. Its dirty, but allows you see how well it looks even when dirty. As mentioned, you can see the edge line, but much more when its isn't clean.
The second is of the Accord. Nearly a year old and not a single blemsih. You can slightly see the edge mark about a foot up the hood.
The third is of the RV hauler. Hauls my travel trailer around on some pretty obscure roads and without a mark. Towing down the highway I used to receive many rock chips, but none since the product was applied. The fenders and the nose were treated and turned out very well. You can't see the edge marks at all, I took the photo to contrast the treated areas when contrasted to the white of the truck. No dulling or yellowing. The dark spots on the front are bugs.
Again, perhaps this will be useful. In my applications I prefer it to the 3M film for clarity and the ability to follow contours. Not to say that film is a bad product, but the aluminumized product works very well and in my opinion is much more finished looking. And except for the edges, which can be buffed down, impossible to see. I really don't know it you can find a shop to do it for you, but I'm sure that someone will want to try.
Terry


Here are some photos that you requested. I hope they come through. I apologize to anyone if they are too large.
As stated before, all vehicles are done with aluminumized clear. The first photo is of my F150. A vehicle used mainly for farm use and sees gravel on a regular basis. After 130 000 km. no hood chips as of yet. Its dirty, but allows you see how well it looks even when dirty. As mentioned, you can see the edge line, but much more when its isn't clean.
The second is of the Accord. Nearly a year old and not a single blemsih. You can slightly see the edge mark about a foot up the hood.
The third is of the RV hauler. Hauls my travel trailer around on some pretty obscure roads and without a mark. Towing down the highway I used to receive many rock chips, but none since the product was applied. The fenders and the nose were treated and turned out very well. You can't see the edge marks at all, I took the photo to contrast the treated areas when contrasted to the white of the truck. No dulling or yellowing. The dark spots on the front are bugs.
Again, perhaps this will be useful. In my applications I prefer it to the 3M film for clarity and the ability to follow contours. Not to say that film is a bad product, but the aluminumized product works very well and in my opinion is much more finished looking. And except for the edges, which can be buffed down, impossible to see. I really don't know it you can find a shop to do it for you, but I'm sure that someone will want to try.
Terry


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