Went to one bar and than went to another bar. It was midnight. Go back to car. Open door dash lights lighted and light in ceiling to. Turned key and nothing happen. No any try from starter. Used Uber to come home. In morning come with my truck to car. Voltage at battery was 12,24v. It was cold at night and in morning, like 6F. I thought Ok I have voltage over 12V so is not battery I go try to start. And starter didn't move again 3 times but start at 4th times.
Drove home, 1,6 miles, and check voltage again and it was 12,37. This time car started every time, with little hesitation. I didn't drive at Saturday just started car a few times. Start googling what could be and reading my files in Microsoft words that I'm making along years from 98.. Go check my file about battery and it is there 12,24V is battery is 50% empty.
I connected that it was very cold and battery was half empty. I forget to turn off headlights and it is where battery come to at Friday. Dash lights worked but not headlights and no starting. Pulled out battery at Sunday charged it and when it was full it read 12,9V. It was very cold at Monday morning and night but car started without any problem.

 

How old is the battery?

You can get those battery testers that measure cold crank amps, but... if the battery is old, and it gets cold, and the car suddenly won't crank but can be jumped... time for a new battery in my book.

 

^^^ Around 3 years. I think that battery is good as was capable to be charged to 12,9 volts. I have battery from my Acura tl 2003 that still didn't seal and it charged only to 12,6.

 

rapid clicking usually means the battery is low and the car is trying to start. It could be the starter based on your symptoms. get battery checked out for free at auto parts store; age is only one factor! Internal resistance and ability to deliver current matter!

 

^^^ It were not any click from starter that night. Only click that I hear was from ignition switch. It is solved for now and it started today at 0F without problem. Edit. I understand now what you say. Will drive as is for now. If will again go stalled at -20F can come here to cry after it.

 

When my Accord battery died recently there was no clicking when trying to start. It was so dead the interior lights didn't come on until I hooked up my jump pack.

 

^^^Yeah I would say it depend how car will behave at start on level of voltage in battery plus how cold is outside. Yesterday was -15F and car did start. Would be nice to check voltage of battery right now but is to cold.
Btw Lol at idiots that do not have better to do in such cold weather then protests for Somalis child care centers.

 

FYI

 

Past night, Tuesday around 11pm, in front of bar exactly same happened. Starter didn't even klick. Was like 33F I did understand than actually I didn't forget light and light would shut down at its own. Walked home that nigh. In morning come with pickup, voltmeter and jumper cable. Voltage was 12,45 Volt. Used jumper cable not click again. Went home to bring 2X2 3' that I have already for years and used a few times, once at my starter long time go at Acura legend, and at another people starters.
Come back and started hitting starter with hammer over 2X2. Didn't work. Finally someone walk bay I asked him to turn key on while I hit starter. Starter turn on right away. AI say
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AI Overview
A 2008 Acura TL that will not start or even click when jumped likely indicates a complete failure of the starter, a massive electrical draw, or a faulty ignition switch/immobilizer. Because the 2007-2008 TL models are known for a specific parasitic drain issue, the battery might be damaged beyond what a simple jump can handle.
Here are the most likely causes and troubleshooting steps, ordered by probability based on common Acura TL issues:

1. Faulty Starter Motor (Most Likely - No Click/No Start)
If the dash lights come on, but you hear absolutely no clicking or turning when you turn the key (even when jumped), the starter is likely stuck or dead.
The "Screwdriver Trick": Have someone turn the key to the 'Start' position while you (or a mechanic) tap the starter motor with a long screwdriver or extension. If it starts, the starter is dead.
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So I drove Acura TL to my parking space. Went to u-pull to bring starter from there but looked original starter, old like rest of car. Found one nice at junkyard that has "Honda" tab on it and it is from Acura tl 2008 and look younger than original part.
Now because come home 4:30 will not even try to replace starter. However plan to drive car around till Sunday. Car did start every time today. Did put 2X2 and hammer for case in trunk. What ziners think it is ok to drive it around. So far it stalled only 2 times. Once in January and past night. AI respectfully disagree.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
AI Overview
It is generally safe to drive the car to a repair shop immediately, but not safe for continued daily use. Hitting the starter (often called "tapping") is a temporary, last-ditch fix for a dying starter motor, and it will likely fail again, potentially leaving you stranded.
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Someone need to try something new like driving around with starter that get stuck 2 times so far.
I'm impressed with engineers of Millennium tower. They tried something new, floating footing, but it didn't work. However next time something will work.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Millennium_Tower_(San_Francisco)

 

It is possible that I left lights on both times. And didn't adjust automatic light off still. It connect with weak starter and it lead to no start. However this morning I did jump starter and it didn't start again.

 

I think now starter is weak and not bad. If I forget headlight on battery cannot start starter. Ai say about adjustment this

• Adjusting Timer Settings:
  • Press the Menu button on the steering wheel.
  • Navigate to Vehicle Settings.
  • Select Lighting Setup.
  • Choose Headlight Auto Off Timer.
  • Adjust to 0, 15, 30, or 60 seconds.

But I do not have Manu button. I have Setup button but it do not lead to Vehicle settings.
I have that sel/reset button but it do not lead to lighting setup.

I think I find settings are under "keyless memory settings".

HEADLIGHT AUTO OFF TIMER is set at 15sec so it is not like I forget headlight. We will see, good for now with starter.

Just checked, turned headlights on and locked doors and key in pocket. Headlights turned off in 15 seconds. So it is not like I forget to turn off headlights.

Well if will go with Acura to job sites will carry starter and mechanic tools with me.

 

This AI statement is not fanny
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Heat Soak: If this typically happens when the engine is hot (like after a quick stop at a gas station), it might be "heat soak". Heat increases electrical resistance, which can push a marginal starter or weak wiring over the edge so it fails to turn the engine.
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Basically it say car will start at my parking but if I go somewhere and engine is hot or warm will not start. It explain why all failures happening away form my parking.

Starter that I brought yesterday. It look to me that is aftermarket, not original from car, but is Honda still. Not original from car is good thing, do not want starter that was at engine for 400k. Before I got this one I was at youpull and starter there was original ones because was of same color lake engine and tranny.

 

Thanks for editing. Look much better. If someone interest went to gym this morning 6,5 miles away. Car started in front of gym too. But when I was close to home stopped for 10 minutes. When come to car had to turn key like 5 times for starter to actually start again. Other 4 times not any sound. So will replace it at Sunday. Today is around 30F.

 

#ramblingsofadrunkman


you're welcome

 

^^^ Only when I drink is when go to bar and even there I wasn't legally drank ever. I do not even hold any alcoholic drink at home. I'm a pro carpenter contractor. This is my add at CL - https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/a...921838590.html

 

I'm going to guess based off the symptoms that the solenoid in your starter might be bad. I once had a similar issue when once the car got hot sometimes turning the key would just make a click and wouldn't actually start the car. I'd have to turn the key a couple times or wait for the car to cool off. It turned out that the heat was making the solenoid have poor contact and not enough of a bridge to turn the engine over. If you want to save money you can take apart the starter and just replace the solenoid (It's 5 bucks instead of the 30 for a used starter) but given yours has nearly 400k miles it might just be wise to buy a "new" one. If you can manage rebuilding a starter is always better than getting a new one as it's cheaper and if you opt for that instead of a used one you know it will last for a long time since you are replacing the wear items and not gambling on something that's used.

When you replace it, good luck getting the battery tray out. There's two bolts below it that are a pain to remove. Putting them back in is also annoying but replacing the frontmost one is a lot easier if you have a wobble extension.

 

There are a few videos that I need not that tray out as our starter is different.

 

Glad to hear you don't have to remove the tray when replacing the starter. I think that was the most time consuming part of the process for me, along with refinishing and repainting the tray as it had been damaged by battery acid.

 

Replaced starter with "new" one at Sunday. So far so good. Job is not big but is somewhat tricky as I'm concern. Also one of two big bolts for starter felt down when I was installing it at take me 30-40 min to find it with lifting side of car etc.. "New" starter look better than old one. Definitely need not to remove tray for starter removal.