Car is dead, cold weather or alternator?

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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 09:53 PM
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Car is dead, cold weather or alternator?

Let me start by saying, the entire day today my car was working just fine. I then go to school, spend an hour in class, and when I go back to my car here's where the fun begins.

1) Unlocks and lights up normally

2) I put in the key to start it, and everything suddenly just goes dark, with my passenger seat making a clicking sound while they key was in the ON position

3) Absolutely, total loss of power. Last time my battery died, the starter motor at least attempted to turn, this time, nothing but completely black dash and not a sound is made.

I ended up getting a jump start from some girls, and my car started fine, I drove home fine, although RPM's dipped a little low at idle at some points (sub 500), and my right headlight had a very faint flickering.

I get home, park inside my garage, and as soon as I turn off my car, completely dead again, couldn't even turn the dome light on.

So any guesses? It definitely has handled temperatures much worse than 16F before so I doubt that has anything to do with it. My guess its that my alternator is completely screwed. (Has 163k miles on it IIRC, in other words it hasn't been replaced).

EDIT: Also I should add that no I did not leave anything on in the car, headlights turn off by themselves as I'm sure you guys know, and I keep the dome light in the "OFF" position, nor do I have any audio mods that might drain my battery.

Any takers?
Thanks!

Last edited by csmaan12; Feb 10, 2012 at 09:55 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 10:03 PM
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Thumbs down

Check your battery terminals.

Alternator bad= battery light, dim light, eventually bogs out and dies.

Or bad battery
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Old Feb 10, 2012 | 10:50 PM
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tip: the alternator is working overtime to run the car with a dead battery
As it tries to provide enough amps to power all the cars systems,
plus recharge the battery

Use of headlights during that time will stop the recharging,,not enough juice to go around
Need to drive 45 minutes with no accessories- freeway type cruise with rpm near 2000 or above,,where the alt is putting out its max power, to recharge a dead battery

If you can recharge the battery at home on a machine, or take it out and to parts store- thats better for the car than a jump start and driving to store

but get to the parts store whole or in pieces~ for free testing
batt can go without much warning, winter puts a lot of strain on them with use of heater in seats- headlights- cabin fan on high etc

Many are finding its time for battery cables and the extra small straps from frame to engine--those ground straps do a lot
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
tip: the alternator is working overtime to run the car with a dead battery
As it tries to provide enough amps to power all the cars systems,
plus recharge the battery

Use of headlights during that time will stop the recharging,,not enough juice to go around
Need to drive 45 minutes with no accessories- freeway type cruise with rpm near 2000 or above,,where the alt is putting out its max power, to recharge a dead battery

If you can recharge the battery at home on a machine, or take it out and to parts store- thats better for the car than a jump start and driving to store

but get to the parts store whole or in pieces~ for free testing
batt can go without much warning, winter puts a lot of strain on them with use of heater in seats- headlights- cabin fan on high etc

Many are finding its time for battery cables and the extra small straps from frame to engine--those ground straps do a lot
I had one tiny ground strap rip due to corrosion this summer, I've held it together with electrical tape and hasn't given me an issue, even for the time that I didn't know it ripped and drove it like that as well. It could have just added up over time I guess. I'm probably going to pick up a battery charger tomorrow since they're not too expensive and go get my battery checked. If that's fine then it will most likely be the alternator which won't surprise me. On the plus side I could get the serpentine belts replaced too.

When I was driving home it took me 20 minutes or so, but I had the heat on and my headlights, because it was dark and I just about got frostbite trying to find someone to jump my car. Kept it in D3 around 2000 rpms, 35mph.

Originally Posted by Type-ES
Check your battery terminals.

Alternator bad= battery light, dim light, eventually bogs out and dies.

Or bad battery
Only thing I've noticed upon further inspection is, that when I try and start the car, no sound is made by the starter motor and my dome + door lights dim from full brightness to almost no light at all. I'm at the point where my door locks don't even work (except with key), from inside the car they try to go down but spring back up right away.
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Old Feb 11, 2012 | 01:50 PM
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Ok I tried various things today.

1. Tried starting the car with the battery from my mom's car, barely started, held on at like 200rpm.

2. Went to AutoZone to get my battery tested and it was 100% charged.

3. Tested alternator there too, and that worked.

4. The tool they were testing with diagnosed it as my starter motor being the problem.

5. I replaced my negative battery cable (btw if anyone knows where I can find an OEM replacement that would be great because AZ only had this weird 6" cable that looked nothing like mine, and I also replaced the strap that was ripped in two with a thicker one that is slightly longer as well.

So is it tough to replace the starter motor on these or is it an easy DIY, they're not too badly priced on the net so if its easy to do by myself I'll order one and get that done.
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by csmaan12
Ok I tried various things today.

1. Tried starting the car with the battery from my mom's car, barely started, held on at like 200rpm.

2. Went to AutoZone to get my battery tested and it was 100% charged.

3. Tested alternator there too, and that worked.

4. The tool they were testing with diagnosed it as my starter motor being the problem.

5. I replaced my negative battery cable (btw if anyone knows where I can find an OEM replacement that would be great because AZ only had this weird 6" cable that looked nothing like mine, and I also replaced the strap that was ripped in two with a thicker one that is slightly longer as well.

So is it tough to replace the starter motor on these or is it an easy DIY, they're not too badly priced on the net so if its easy to do by myself I'll order one and get that done.
I just figured out my starter is going bad also. Same issues like you had. I changed the battery since it was under warranty and it worked out good for a month but same thing. I got a rod in the trunk incase it doesnt want to start on me. Just hit the starter once or twice and starts right up. Ive dont other starters so im planning on doing mines once i get a chance. I dont know if your in a hurry or not but i can take pics once i get a chance. Im just trying to figure out if i should pick up a starter at autozone or go oem.
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Old Feb 12, 2012 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by harminder247
I just figured out my starter is going bad also. Same issues like you had. I changed the battery since it was under warranty and it worked out good for a month but same thing. I got a rod in the trunk incase it doesnt want to start on me. Just hit the starter once or twice and starts right up. Ive dont other starters so im planning on doing mines once i get a chance. I dont know if your in a hurry or not but i can take pics once i get a chance. Im just trying to figure out if i should pick up a starter at autozone or go oem.
Pics would be awesome once you do it. And from browsing the intrawebz I've seen a lot of people saying to go OEM on the starter and stay away from aftermarket.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by harminder247
I just figured out my starter is going bad also. ... I got a rod in the trunk incase it doesnt want to start on me. Just hit the starter once or twice and starts right up. i can take pics once i get a chance.
I'd like to see a vid of you smacking your starter with that "rod", LOL.

If you can spare a day without your car, best idea is to take your OE starter to an auto electric shop. They will test and repair your actual starter. (I have had poor luck with alternators and starters purchased at parts stores)
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbuff
I'd like to see a vid of you smacking your starter with that "rod", LOL.

If you can spare a day without your car, best idea is to take your OE starter to an auto electric shop. They will test and repair your actual starter. (I have had poor luck with alternators and starters purchased at parts stores)

Thanks for the tip. Ive never done that but will look into it. Maybe i should stop smacking it then lol. I can go a few days without it. I can drive my other car while they repair this. OEM is going to cost alot more then autozone i hear.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by harminder247
Thanks for the tip. Ive never done that but will look into it. Maybe i should stop smacking it then lol. I can go a few days without it. I can drive my other car while they repair this. OEM is going to cost alot more then autozone i hear.
Yeah I've been looking at OEM starters and I've seen prices all the way to $400, as opposed $150 from Rock Auto. After changing the negative battery cable and the strap that was ripped, mine started working just fine (hope my car doesn't hear this and decide to die again).
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 01:32 AM
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Heres the video for your viewing pleasures lol

Starter wise after thinking it through i think im going to get the one at autozone for 120 with a lifetime warranty. Im going to change it myself so labor wont be an issue for me and might as well save money since acura here wants close to 400 for oem and 280 for a rebuilt. Will update with what i do and how it turns out.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by harminder247


Heres the video for your viewing pleasures lol

Starter wise after thinking it through i think im going to get the one at autozone for 120 with a lifetime warranty. Im going to change it myself so labor wont be an issue for me and might as well save money since acura here wants close to 400 for oem and 280 for a rebuilt. Will update with what i do and how it turns out.
ROFL!

I can't believe that worked, never seen that before in my life! .
Well now I know, if it goes out again, I'll beat the crap out of the starter.

EDIT: And yes, if it comes down to changing it, I'll go the cheap AZ route considering that I'm probably not going to have this car for too much longer .

Last edited by csmaan12; Feb 15, 2012 at 09:51 AM.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 10:43 AM
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if the brushes inside the starter are sticking--the good whack method will often restore operation to the unit for a while

an auto electrical repair shop can install the needed new parts for cheaper than most rebuilds,,but those places are getting harder to find
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
if the brushes inside the starter are sticking--the good whack method will often restore operation to the unit for a while

an auto electrical repair shop can install the needed new parts for cheaper than most rebuilds,,but those places are getting harder to find
Well i found one shop in stockton but they charge 15 to give an estimate and its 70 for labor plus parts. A rebuilt one i found one for 85 with a 1 year warranty and a rebuilt one at autozone for 119 i think it was with a lifetime warranty. The rebuild i would get done only offered a 1 year warranty on just what they replace.
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 11:53 PM
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zone sounds like the way to go then!
ck their online store price, sometimes its cheaper and they will match it at real store.
or you order direct and can return old starter/core to the local store
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Old Feb 16, 2012 | 10:52 AM
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I have done the tapping on the starter before and it does work; just use the wheel lugs tool. I did that for a long time on my old car in a combination of shifting the gear in and out of park on the way to the other end. You will hear the clicking noise just like having a low battery when starting. In that case, it is either battery, starter, or loose/corroded cable.

Last edited by acutee; Feb 16, 2012 at 10:54 AM.
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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 01:08 PM
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Well I just change it out yesterday and it was VERY easy. I did take pics and the whole this took me a little over a hour. 20-25 mins taking it out and about 30 putting it back in. Mines tested fine but. Using sounded bad. I picked a remanufactured at pepboys for about 125. Sound different. I would say a little louder than my older starter but oh we'll. I took pics and will post them with a write up. I've never written up one so I'll try my best. I will probably start new thread or should I just post here?
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 11:20 AM
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make it a DIY and send to kris,,the mods will review and post to the section
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Old Mar 6, 2012 | 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
make it a DIY and send to kris,,the mods will review and post to the section
will do!! thank you for the info. One more day left for work then ill write it out. Work 4 days 12 hour shifts so havent had a chance to write one up.
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