Brake Rotors/Pads Question/Advice !!!!
07-31-2007, 10:04 PM
#1
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Brake Rotors/Pads Question/Advice !!!!
hey..i just have a little questions about ROTORS and BRAKE PADS
well i drive a 2004 Acura TL and i took in my car for a "B Service" at the dealer and they told me that i would need to MACHINE FRONT BRAKE ROTORS AND REPLACE PADS...and i they were gonna charge me some ridicioulus amount of money around $400 bucks or so and i know that i can get it done much cheaper if i get the parts myself,
1) So i was wondering if its better to machine my rotors or just get new ones?
2) What kinda of front brake rotors do i need for city/hwy driving?
(don't race or anything)
3) What is the difference between slotted and drillled and sliced and regular rotors?
4) Where can i get some good deals on Rotors/Pads?
well i drive a 2004 Acura TL and i took in my car for a "B Service" at the dealer and they told me that i would need to MACHINE FRONT BRAKE ROTORS AND REPLACE PADS...and i they were gonna charge me some ridicioulus amount of money around $400 bucks or so and i know that i can get it done much cheaper if i get the parts myself,
1) So i was wondering if its better to machine my rotors or just get new ones?
2) What kinda of front brake rotors do i need for city/hwy driving?
(don't race or anything)
3) What is the difference between slotted and drillled and sliced and regular rotors?
4) Where can i get some good deals on Rotors/Pads?
07-31-2007, 10:19 PM
#2
1) At the price that Acura charges to machine rotors, you can almost pay for new ones.
Also, please notice that the machining process do remove material from the rotors which could be more prone to warping.
2) You can use the Acura/Honda OEM of if you want to upgrade, I suggest the Racing Brake One Piece Slotted Rotor which in my short experience (1 week + 1 day) is very well made. They have a special curved vane design for the cooling of the rotors. Check RacingBrake.com website.
3) The slot are supposed to permit the gases from the pads to escape, very little material is remove from the rotors to machine the slots.
Drilled rotors are more of a trend then a performance improvement for our TL. They tend to remove more material from the rotors and if not done correctly, the rotors can start to develop stress/heat cracks around the holes.
For Pads, Hawk Performance Ceramic pads, very little dust and better performance then the OEM pads.
For decent deals (we are talking premium parts here, not white box stuff) check out the following link
https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/racingbrake-front-rear-up-rotors-packages-deals-inside-344787/
Best regards
frenchnew
Also, please notice that the machining process do remove material from the rotors which could be more prone to warping.
2) You can use the Acura/Honda OEM of if you want to upgrade, I suggest the Racing Brake One Piece Slotted Rotor which in my short experience (1 week + 1 day) is very well made. They have a special curved vane design for the cooling of the rotors. Check RacingBrake.com website.
3) The slot are supposed to permit the gases from the pads to escape, very little material is remove from the rotors to machine the slots.
Drilled rotors are more of a trend then a performance improvement for our TL. They tend to remove more material from the rotors and if not done correctly, the rotors can start to develop stress/heat cracks around the holes.
For Pads, Hawk Performance Ceramic pads, very little dust and better performance then the OEM pads.
For decent deals (we are talking premium parts here, not white box stuff) check out the following link
https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/racingbrake-front-rear-up-rotors-packages-deals-inside-344787/
Best regards
frenchnew
07-31-2007, 10:39 PM
#3
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thanks for the quick reply its cleared up a lot of my confusion but i just had one more question about the rotors...if i decided to go with a performance one like you suggested "Racing Brake One Piece Slotted Rotor" would that shave off my brake pads faster/more than as if i just had regular OEM rotors?
07-31-2007, 10:42 PM
#4
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1. IMO, I would replace the rotors...machining the old rotors will make the rotors thinner which makes them more vulnerable, plus they will not last as long as replacement.
2. For city/highway driving and no high speed stopping, I would go with either stock or equivelent to stock rotors. Cross drilled, slotted or cross/slotted rotors will offer better performance due to their better capability of dissipating heat and their capability of reducing brake fade. They have less of a chance of warping because they stay cooler. These rotors can not be re-surfaced though, due to their design.
3. Slotted and drilled rotors are designed for either racing or spirited driving conditions (some people like the look). They have either holes drilled through the rotor in a pattern (drilled) or they have slots machined out of the surface of the rotor (slotted). Both types help get rid of gasses and dust and they keep the rotor cooler. They also make drilled and slotted rotors rather than just one or the other. Stock, flat surface rotors offer plenty of performance for the daily driver. If you plan to drive fast with quick, often stops or plan to race, I would get the Crossdrilled, slotted or cross/slotted rotors.
4. I got good deals on Brembo cross drilled rotors on Ebay for my old Acura. (TL doesent need brakes yet)
2. For city/highway driving and no high speed stopping, I would go with either stock or equivelent to stock rotors. Cross drilled, slotted or cross/slotted rotors will offer better performance due to their better capability of dissipating heat and their capability of reducing brake fade. They have less of a chance of warping because they stay cooler. These rotors can not be re-surfaced though, due to their design.
3. Slotted and drilled rotors are designed for either racing or spirited driving conditions (some people like the look). They have either holes drilled through the rotor in a pattern (drilled) or they have slots machined out of the surface of the rotor (slotted). Both types help get rid of gasses and dust and they keep the rotor cooler. They also make drilled and slotted rotors rather than just one or the other. Stock, flat surface rotors offer plenty of performance for the daily driver. If you plan to drive fast with quick, often stops or plan to race, I would get the Crossdrilled, slotted or cross/slotted rotors.
4. I got good deals on Brembo cross drilled rotors on Ebay for my old Acura. (TL doesent need brakes yet)
07-31-2007, 10:55 PM
#5
Originally Posted by bloodylankan
thanks for the quick reply its cleared up a lot of my confusion but i just had one more question about the rotors...if i decided to go with a performance one like you suggested "Racing Brake One Piece Slotted Rotor" would that shave off my brake pads faster/more than as if i just had regular OEM rotors?
If you want to learn more about the differences, check out;
http://www.racingbrake.com/main/application_guide.asp
It's not only the slotted/ drilled/plain but also the choice of material, heat treatment and special curved vane.
Slotted might be overkill but for safety related parts I prefer to go the extra mile then to rear end another car.
Also, Racing Brake only offer's the slotted rotors on the front for non-Brembo equipped TL.
Best regards
Frenchnew
08-01-2007, 01:15 AM
#6
RB now offers slotted rotors for the 6MT cars with brembos- but only in the high end 2 piece rotor- which allows you to unbolt the actual disc and replace eventually- just like race cars have. And has an aluminum center hub for light weight and less heat sink to the disc
The 1 piece is available for the AT cars of each gen and the gen 2 can now also get 2 piece
for hardcore racers and show cars
1 piece has been on my car since last year and keep stopping like no one can believe- shocks riders how late I wait to brake into a corner, and in traffic with wife at wheel, has kept the car OE length on more than one occassion
Wife brought the Maxima home 2 feet shorter- I bought RBs for the TL as soon as we got it
These rotors can be resurfaced-A: you wont need to for at least 2 or maybe 3 sets of pads till you resurface-
B: just not on a standard brake lathe- they cross hatch cut the surface on them- so the can indeed be ground properly
Because these rotors and many others are harder than OE- they pads used are also harder like Hawk HPS or ceramics- that wear issue by cutting is not a reality
Good brakes stop the car by using a little material- thats friction-heat at work
thats where the brake pads went!!
The 1 piece is available for the AT cars of each gen and the gen 2 can now also get 2 piece
for hardcore racers and show cars
1 piece has been on my car since last year and keep stopping like no one can believe- shocks riders how late I wait to brake into a corner, and in traffic with wife at wheel, has kept the car OE length on more than one occassion
Wife brought the Maxima home 2 feet shorter- I bought RBs for the TL as soon as we got it
These rotors can be resurfaced-A: you wont need to for at least 2 or maybe 3 sets of pads till you resurface-
B: just not on a standard brake lathe- they cross hatch cut the surface on them- so the can indeed be ground properly
Because these rotors and many others are harder than OE- they pads used are also harder like Hawk HPS or ceramics- that wear issue by cutting is not a reality
Good brakes stop the car by using a little material- thats friction-heat at work
thats where the brake pads went!!
08-01-2007, 02:17 AM
#7
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1) If they have not been resurfaced before, and are not within 20% of the minimum thickness, you are better off getting a good "bench lathe" resurface job on the rotors at about $15/rotor. Of course, RB rotors are nice, but really aren't necessary.
2) I would get Brembo OE replacements or Centric Premium rotors. Those are good rotors for daily drivers. For about 50% more in cost, you can get the Rotora or RB rotors. Not really worth the money IMO unless rotor warping has become a problem due to your driving style.
3) Both are designed for heat dissipation. I prefer slotted rotors to cross-drilled as cross-drilled has traditionally had durability issues if the drills were done incorrectly.
4) For a daily driver, I like the Akebono ProACT pads. They deliver equal or better stopping power compared to the OE pads with far less dust. A few that I know whom are running these pads have found that they last longer than the OE pad. About $65/set shipped from RockAuto. The rotors that I mentioned can be purchased from AutoPartsWarehouse or BrakeWarehouse. You can check the site sponsors if you wish to purchase the performance rotors.
2) I would get Brembo OE replacements or Centric Premium rotors. Those are good rotors for daily drivers. For about 50% more in cost, you can get the Rotora or RB rotors. Not really worth the money IMO unless rotor warping has become a problem due to your driving style.
3) Both are designed for heat dissipation. I prefer slotted rotors to cross-drilled as cross-drilled has traditionally had durability issues if the drills were done incorrectly.
4) For a daily driver, I like the Akebono ProACT pads. They deliver equal or better stopping power compared to the OE pads with far less dust. A few that I know whom are running these pads have found that they last longer than the OE pad. About $65/set shipped from RockAuto. The rotors that I mentioned can be purchased from AutoPartsWarehouse or BrakeWarehouse. You can check the site sponsors if you wish to purchase the performance rotors.
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08-01-2007, 06:21 AM
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On my '04 6MT I used the slotted rotors and Hawke pads and was very pleased. Excellent stopping power and far less brake dust. After-market always seems to out do OEM
08-01-2007, 07:09 AM
#9
My first TL 6MT front brake job posts
..may be of some help, even if only for the pretty pictures and not-so-pretty prices.
See the thread on turning the rotors and the one I just posted on the Hawk Ceramic brake pad install .
See the thread on turning the rotors and the one I just posted on the Hawk Ceramic brake pad install .
08-01-2007, 11:32 AM
#10
Personally I would go with OEM parts. They are inexpensive for your 5AT, and doing it yourself would be easy.
- #14 OEM front rotors = $86 each (x2)
- #9 OEM front pad set = $73 (x1)
- #12 OEM pad retainers = $3.42 each (x4)
You can also have the stock rotors turned on a bench lathe at your local shop to save a ton of money (typically $10-$15 each rotor). Just make sure the machined finish is smooth enough that you cannot catch your fingernail while dragging it across. Some people also like to finish off the machined surface by block sanding it with 130 grit and then throughly washing with soap & water. Make sure to keep grease off the rotor & pads friction surface (brake cleaner spray comes in handy).
There is no sense in buying slotted or drilled rotors since there is NO increase in brake performance (they do NOT cool any better), and the extra cost for a left & right specific rotor is phenomenal. Modern pad materials don't have the out-gassing problems that made the slots & holes necessary in the past. Plus the reduced rotor mass from the slots & holes means the rotors do-not hold as much heat. Also, holes in the rotors create stress risers that allow cracks to form much easier (even if the holes are cast in). No racing teams use drilled rotors because of this.
BTW: Don't forget to remove the caliper guide pins (#17 & #11) to clean & re-lube them. This is what keeps your calipers working for a long long time to come. Just make sure to work on them one at a time and reinstall them as you do NOT want to mix them up.
Here is the OEM brake service instructions: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118283
- #14 OEM front rotors = $86 each (x2)
- #9 OEM front pad set = $73 (x1)
- #12 OEM pad retainers = $3.42 each (x4)
You can also have the stock rotors turned on a bench lathe at your local shop to save a ton of money (typically $10-$15 each rotor). Just make sure the machined finish is smooth enough that you cannot catch your fingernail while dragging it across. Some people also like to finish off the machined surface by block sanding it with 130 grit and then throughly washing with soap & water. Make sure to keep grease off the rotor & pads friction surface (brake cleaner spray comes in handy).
There is no sense in buying slotted or drilled rotors since there is NO increase in brake performance (they do NOT cool any better), and the extra cost for a left & right specific rotor is phenomenal. Modern pad materials don't have the out-gassing problems that made the slots & holes necessary in the past. Plus the reduced rotor mass from the slots & holes means the rotors do-not hold as much heat. Also, holes in the rotors create stress risers that allow cracks to form much easier (even if the holes are cast in). No racing teams use drilled rotors because of this.
BTW: Don't forget to remove the caliper guide pins (#17 & #11) to clean & re-lube them. This is what keeps your calipers working for a long long time to come. Just make sure to work on them one at a time and reinstall them as you do NOT want to mix them up.
Here is the OEM brake service instructions: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118283
08-01-2007, 12:08 PM
#11
Originally Posted by 94eg!
Personally I would go with OEM parts. They are inexpensive for your 5AT, and doing it yourself would be easy.
- #14 OEM front rotors = $86 each (x2)
- #9 OEM front pad set = $73 (x1)
- #12 OEM pad retainers = $3.42 each (x4)
- #14 OEM front rotors = $86 each (x2)
- #9 OEM front pad set = $73 (x1)
- #12 OEM pad retainers = $3.42 each (x4)
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/product.p...at=2090&page=1
Hawk Performance Ceramic $93.62 (Free shipping from Heeltoe)
http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Acura-TL-...A6-c-2082.html
It is a little more expensive but in my honest opinions, Racing Brake rotors are of better quality then Acura's rotors and the pads do offer better braking performance and a harder more responsive brake pedal (less mushy)
I did the installation over 1 week ago (all 4 corners) because of recurring problems with the OEM rear rotors on my 2005 TL. At 36,000 Km (27 months), Acura replace both rear rotors and brake pads on warranty because the rotors were badly grooved and rusted. When I replace them last week (55,000 Km) (54 weeks sinces replacement) the rotors had sign of grooves starting to appear again. The front rotors and pads were fine but they got replaced with Racing Brakes 1 piece Slotted Rotors along with Hawk Performance Ceramic pads. The rear rotors are StopTech (Racing Brakes does not have our application) with Hawk Ceramic's again.
I feel that the rotors on the TL are undersized and have notice that the rotors have a tendency to warp really easily when hot (brake pedal started to jump after the first braking right after the brakes where serviced last year at 36,000KM.
The rotors return to the flat state when cold but as soon as they see a little heat, the pedal starts to jump and pushing further you get brake fade.
Best regards
Frenchnew
08-01-2007, 12:35 PM
#12
OE parts are rarely the best thing for your car- the maker is buying in bulk and getting whatever is cheapest and fits- why do you think so many parts have crossover application to other models and makers too
Heeltoe actually has a combo deal with rotors and pads at reduced package price
Great breaks keep the car OE length in a panic situation- with room to spare!
RB is redoing their casting molds for the rear, so for now stoptech is good choice- and for the rears with only 30% of the braking force- they are more than enough
The heavy use of brakes does cause outgassing, slots are a good thing,
cross drilling on most street car based rotors- bad thing
Race teams DO use crossdrilled when legal- and they also replace rotors after a practice session or 2, and they cost far more than anything you can even think of buying!
Anyone interested in RB and wanting futher tech info on metallurgy and construction please PM me for serious tech talk!
Heeltoe actually has a combo deal with rotors and pads at reduced package price
Great breaks keep the car OE length in a panic situation- with room to spare!
RB is redoing their casting molds for the rear, so for now stoptech is good choice- and for the rears with only 30% of the braking force- they are more than enough
The heavy use of brakes does cause outgassing, slots are a good thing,
cross drilling on most street car based rotors- bad thing
Race teams DO use crossdrilled when legal- and they also replace rotors after a practice session or 2, and they cost far more than anything you can even think of buying!
Anyone interested in RB and wanting futher tech info on metallurgy and construction please PM me for serious tech talk!
08-01-2007, 12:44 PM
#13
Originally Posted by frenchnew
Hawk Performance Ceramic $93.62 (Free shipping from Heeltoe)
Not arguing. Just pointing it out. I personally use Axxis Ultimates ceramic/kevlar pads on my race/street Civic. Love the performance, but they make tons of dust (time for some dark wheels). I've also found that most aftermarket pads tend to require a little massaging to get that perfect fit. I typically have to grind & sand the ears a little, and this is never necessary with OEM.
I guess my point is that I wanted the OP to understand that OEM parts are cheaper, and worry free. And as I pointed out, there is no reason to replace the rotors if they are within spec (unless your having vibrational problems like frenchnew)...
08-01-2007, 12:48 PM
#14
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Race teams DO use crossdrilled when legal- and they also replace rotors after a practice session or 2, and they cost far more than anything you can even think of buying!
Even stoptech recommends against drilled rotors for any purpose other than looks..
08-01-2007, 12:56 PM
#15
I have the racingbrake 1 piece rotors in the front, hawk ceramics pads all around, and stainless lines. The braking power is dramitically increased. By far the best performance mod I've done.....period. Marcus at heeltoe installed mine and I couldn't be happier. I would not want the oem crap on my car anymore after having these. I even had the A-spec scortched pads and they were crap after using these.
08-01-2007, 02:41 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
wow...thanks for all your replies on my topic
well i purchased the car back in august 2006 and im not sure if the current rotors have ever been machined or anything and the dealer told that the price difference from machining and getting new rotors wasnt much neways imma decide to buy new rotors and pads for the front and my rear is still fine they said...
another issues is that im not rich or anything...still pretty young and im looking for something cheap but good at the same time because i dont want to end up paying more in future for gettin cheap crap in my car....so from what ive looked at so far im interested in:
The Combo deal HEELTOE offered for $326.00 shipped to Toronto
Acurazine - Racingbrake Promo Package : 04-07 TL 5AT 1-Piece Front UP Rotors and HPS Pads
Let me know if this is the best/cheapest deal i can get!
well i purchased the car back in august 2006 and im not sure if the current rotors have ever been machined or anything and the dealer told that the price difference from machining and getting new rotors wasnt much neways imma decide to buy new rotors and pads for the front and my rear is still fine they said...
another issues is that im not rich or anything...still pretty young and im looking for something cheap but good at the same time because i dont want to end up paying more in future for gettin cheap crap in my car....so from what ive looked at so far im interested in:
The Combo deal HEELTOE offered for $326.00 shipped to Toronto
Acurazine - Racingbrake Promo Package : 04-07 TL 5AT 1-Piece Front UP Rotors and HPS Pads
Let me know if this is the best/cheapest deal i can get!
08-01-2007, 02:48 PM
#17
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Thread Starter
By the way the website is giving me an option for to upgrade to:
Hawk HPS, FR, Standard (this the one that comes up to $326.00)
Hawk cermanic pads, FR - +$10.00
Hawk HP + Pads, FR - +$15.00
Do i really need the upgraded versions for local driving?
Would they last longer or something?
Let me know if this is the best/cheapest deal i can get!
Hawk HPS, FR, Standard (this the one that comes up to $326.00)
Hawk cermanic pads, FR - +$10.00
Hawk HP + Pads, FR - +$15.00
Do i really need the upgraded versions for local driving?
Would they last longer or something?
Let me know if this is the best/cheapest deal i can get!
08-01-2007, 03:40 PM
#18
Go with the HPS pads for normal human driving
They are plenty quiet and powerful- just follow the instructions on pad bedding at heeltoeauto.com
#94eg
you must buy crap because the Hawks come with their own backing plate preinstalled,and I keep a tub of CRC synthetic caliper grease- good for the tralier ball hitch too!
I have never had to cut good pads to make them fit, and many PRO division racing- like the GTP cars all run cross- drilled rotors- go to a pro scca-imsa race and walk the paddock- they sell used rotors signed by the driver!!
Pad outgassing is real- your ~beliefs~ are based on old info or guessing
They are plenty quiet and powerful- just follow the instructions on pad bedding at heeltoeauto.com
#94eg
you must buy crap because the Hawks come with their own backing plate preinstalled,and I keep a tub of CRC synthetic caliper grease- good for the tralier ball hitch too!
I have never had to cut good pads to make them fit, and many PRO division racing- like the GTP cars all run cross- drilled rotors- go to a pro scca-imsa race and walk the paddock- they sell used rotors signed by the driver!!
Pad outgassing is real- your ~beliefs~ are based on old info or guessing
08-01-2007, 03:44 PM
#19
And good rotors do not absorb heat via rotor mass- they create outflow of hot air to reduce temp of rotor created by friction of brake pads pressed against rotor
Thats where RB shines- curved inner cooling vanes extract more air at higher speed- result is brakes that stay good during repeated use
If you think dimples are for pad cleaning you need to do some reading
Thats where RB shines- curved inner cooling vanes extract more air at higher speed- result is brakes that stay good during repeated use
If you think dimples are for pad cleaning you need to do some reading
08-02-2007, 01:17 PM
#20
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Thread Starter
i just did some research around places around my own area and i came up with this so let me know what you guys think
Active Green Ross:
Ceramic Economy Brake Pads = $110.23 CDN
Normal Rotors = $226.00 CDN a set
Part Source:
Ceramic Pads = 62.89 CDN
EBC Pads(green) = 106.00 CDN
Hawk Pads = 125.00 CDN
Slotted Rotors = $260.00 CDN a set
Installation = $70.00 CDN
Active Green Ross:
Ceramic Economy Brake Pads = $110.23 CDN
Normal Rotors = $226.00 CDN a set
Part Source:
Ceramic Pads = 62.89 CDN
EBC Pads(green) = 106.00 CDN
Hawk Pads = 125.00 CDN
Slotted Rotors = $260.00 CDN a set
Installation = $70.00 CDN
08-02-2007, 03:37 PM
#21
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
...many PRO division racing- like the GTP cars all run cross- drilled rotors
http://www.7extrememotorsports.com/l...tte-c6r-17.JPG
WRC Sti race car
http://rally.subaru.com/gallery/2007...e_DSC_0616.jpg
Mazeratti MC-12 race car
http://www.maserati-alfieri.co.uk/stsl/stsl-010a.jpg
Peugot 307 WRC race car
http://www.channel4.com/4car/media/f...ront-brake.jpg
Nissan GTR JGTC race car
http://racing.jbskyline.net/2001/Gal...ke%20discs.jpg
Realtime RSX race car
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...MXk1NDE%3D.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg
Calsonic Z Super GT race car
http://www.impul.co.jp/products/brake/JGTC004_200.jpg
Autobacs MR2 JGTC race car
http://galeria.forocoches.com/data/5...00_JGTC_02.JPG
http://galeria.forocoches.com/data/5...00_JGTC_09.JPG
360 Modena Challenge race car
http://robson.m3rlin.org/cars/wp-con...i_race-car.jpg
Opel Astra DTM race car
http://us1.webpublications.com.au/st...6/1624_3mg.jpg
BMW M3 GT2 race car
http://www.kwyjibo.com/ispeed/limerock98/lr98234.jpg
etc:
http://www.urbanracer.com/gallery/ga...17-04/0183.jpg
http://www.urbanracer.com/gallery/ga...17-04/0173.jpg
http://www.urbanracer.com/gallery/ar...rt1/splash.jpg
Sorry, but I searched and searched and couldn't find ANY modern race teams running cross-drilled rotors. I even searched for the "GTP" series you mentioned, but only came up with the older IMSA GTP series from that ended in the early 90's. In addition, none of the guys in the road-race/auto-x forum on Honda-Tech.com use or recommend cross-drilled rotors on any car. And these guys all run in SCCA & NASA sanctioning bodies. You are the ONLY person I've ever heard recommend cross-drilled rotors to anybody (that wasn't selling them).
And here is what Stoptech has to say on the subject (and they do sell them):
Originally Posted by StopTech.com
Which is better, slotted or drilled rotors?
StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.
And as far as pad modification goes, I had to grind pad ears twice with two different brands. One was Axxis Ultimates for an Integra rear, and the other was a semi-metallic set from Checker for a Civic front (can't remember cheapo brand name). In both cases it was caused by rough cut from the stamping process for the backing plates. A quick zap on the bench grinder and an easy once over with a fine grit took care of things. It's not a big deal, it's just that a good fit is important for smooth long-lasting operation.
Somehow I have the feeling my words and efforts are wasted anyways. A wise man once said:
08-02-2007, 03:52 PM
#22
Not to add make your decision more difficult but ROTORA also offers a great setup that many Acurazine members run.
ROTORA Slotted Rotors w/ either Hawk HPS, EBC Greenstuffs, or ROTORA ceramics. The Hawk pads do not come with shims but the ROTORA pads do.
https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/rotora-slotted-drilled-slotted-rotors-special-cl-tl-tsx-324531/
ROTORA Slotted Rotors w/ either Hawk HPS, EBC Greenstuffs, or ROTORA ceramics. The Hawk pads do not come with shims but the ROTORA pads do.
https://acurazine.com/forums/sponsored-sales-group-buys-10/rotora-slotted-drilled-slotted-rotors-special-cl-tl-tsx-324531/
08-02-2007, 05:19 PM
#23
eg you must need new glasses too
I never said to get cross drilled for street cars-
I do say hard drivers should use slotted rotors- which you dont agree with because you think pads dont outgas
You bought a brand no one here likes and some crappos- that means all pads have to be modified????
As I also said- many race bodies do not allow cross drilled rotors- I didnt bother to look at your pics as I am a tech -safety inspector and know what I see at the track
You also make statements about metallury and pad operations that indicate you are far from being the expert on such matters
I dont sell auto parts!
Maybe you want a self hypnosis book to stop smoking or making friends!
I can help you there!!
Excelerate knows his stuff and sells his choosen brand- with SLOTS
I never said to get cross drilled for street cars-
I do say hard drivers should use slotted rotors- which you dont agree with because you think pads dont outgas
You bought a brand no one here likes and some crappos- that means all pads have to be modified????
As I also said- many race bodies do not allow cross drilled rotors- I didnt bother to look at your pics as I am a tech -safety inspector and know what I see at the track
You also make statements about metallury and pad operations that indicate you are far from being the expert on such matters
I dont sell auto parts!
Maybe you want a self hypnosis book to stop smoking or making friends!
I can help you there!!
Excelerate knows his stuff and sells his choosen brand- with SLOTS
08-02-2007, 05:31 PM
#24
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Thread Starter
lolz...guys chill out with your lil problems going on here, its not a big problem here i just need something simple so i just need your opinions on which deal to grab!!
so i just did some research around places around my own area and i came up with this so let me know what you guys think
Heeltoe: (plus taxes, duty and customs)
Hawk HPS, FR, Standard (this the one that comes up to $309.70 US
Hawk cermanic pads, FR - +$10.00 US
Hawk HP + Pads, FR - +$15.00 US
www.ExceleratePerformance.com: (plus shipping, taxes, duty and customs)
Acura TL 3.2L (04-07) excluding Brembo caliper
- ROTORA Front Slotted Rotors - $175/pair US
- ROTORA Front Combo Rotors - $210/pair Us
Acura TL 3.2L (04-07) w/ Brembo caliper
- ROTORA Front Slotted Rotors - $225/pair US
- ROTORA Front Combo Rotors - $290/pair US
Active Green Ross: (no shipping cost involved)
Ceramic Economy Brake Pads = $110.23 CDN
Normal Rotors = $226.00 CDN a set
Part Source: (no shipping cost involved)
Ceramic Pads = 62.89 CDN
EBC Pads(green) = 106.00 CDN
Hawk Pads = 125.00 CDN
Slotted Rotors = $260.00 CDN a set
Installation = $70.00 CDN
so i just did some research around places around my own area and i came up with this so let me know what you guys think
Heeltoe: (plus taxes, duty and customs)
Hawk HPS, FR, Standard (this the one that comes up to $309.70 US
Hawk cermanic pads, FR - +$10.00 US
Hawk HP + Pads, FR - +$15.00 US
www.ExceleratePerformance.com: (plus shipping, taxes, duty and customs)
Acura TL 3.2L (04-07) excluding Brembo caliper
- ROTORA Front Slotted Rotors - $175/pair US
- ROTORA Front Combo Rotors - $210/pair Us
Acura TL 3.2L (04-07) w/ Brembo caliper
- ROTORA Front Slotted Rotors - $225/pair US
- ROTORA Front Combo Rotors - $290/pair US
Active Green Ross: (no shipping cost involved)
Ceramic Economy Brake Pads = $110.23 CDN
Normal Rotors = $226.00 CDN a set
Part Source: (no shipping cost involved)
Ceramic Pads = 62.89 CDN
EBC Pads(green) = 106.00 CDN
Hawk Pads = 125.00 CDN
Slotted Rotors = $260.00 CDN a set
Installation = $70.00 CDN
08-02-2007, 07:37 PM
#25
This is the first mention of you having brembo fronts-
so you have a 6speed manual trans correct?- that changes things a lot!!-
totally different front brakes than you have been looking at on heeltoe
- they are 1 inch larger diameter rotor than the auto trans cars
You need to go back and confirm all the prices- you got auto trans- normal TL brake quotes, when you have a different set up~
RB does not make a 1 piece rotor for that car- only the higher priced 2 piece lightweight rotors for the brembo owners
With that being the case- for good stuff, buy 1 piece rotora from Excelerate rather than generic ceramic pads and rotors if you want an ~upgrade~
otherwise stay local and avoid fees and such
The rotoras with their brand ceramic pads are running fine on despers 05-
we put them on about 2 months ago
he says they work great with low dust and low noise- very happy
so you have a 6speed manual trans correct?- that changes things a lot!!-
totally different front brakes than you have been looking at on heeltoe
- they are 1 inch larger diameter rotor than the auto trans cars
You need to go back and confirm all the prices- you got auto trans- normal TL brake quotes, when you have a different set up~
RB does not make a 1 piece rotor for that car- only the higher priced 2 piece lightweight rotors for the brembo owners
With that being the case- for good stuff, buy 1 piece rotora from Excelerate rather than generic ceramic pads and rotors if you want an ~upgrade~
otherwise stay local and avoid fees and such
The rotoras with their brand ceramic pads are running fine on despers 05-
we put them on about 2 months ago
he says they work great with low dust and low noise- very happy
08-02-2007, 08:56 PM
#27
thats good- you have more options that way- stop looking at brembo priced items then~
sorry to spook you!
for the ~brembo look~ - get caliper paint kit $10 or bbq paint 3$ and go for it
there are threads on actual process but the end result with black or your choice calipers and matched brackets with black center hubs onthe rotors and the edges of the rotors
= sweeeeet
sorry to spook you!
for the ~brembo look~ - get caliper paint kit $10 or bbq paint 3$ and go for it
there are threads on actual process but the end result with black or your choice calipers and matched brackets with black center hubs onthe rotors and the edges of the rotors
= sweeeeet
08-02-2007, 08:58 PM
#28
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Thread Starter
So you think i should go with these:
Heeltoe: (plus taxes, duty and customs)
Hawk HPS, FR, Standard (this the one that comes up to $309.70 US
instead of these local ones i can get without shipping cost and etc:
Part Source: (no shipping cost involved)
Ceramic Pads = 62.89 CDN
EBC Pads(green) = 106.00 CDN
Hawk Pads = 125.00 CDN
Slotted Rotors = $260.00 CDN a set
Heeltoe: (plus taxes, duty and customs)
Hawk HPS, FR, Standard (this the one that comes up to $309.70 US
instead of these local ones i can get without shipping cost and etc:
Part Source: (no shipping cost involved)
Ceramic Pads = 62.89 CDN
EBC Pads(green) = 106.00 CDN
Hawk Pads = 125.00 CDN
Slotted Rotors = $260.00 CDN a set
08-02-2007, 09:35 PM
#29
The Hawk pads did not come with the shim set.
I did re-use the shim set on the old pads as they were still good after I cleaned them out & re-lubed with CRC Synthetic Brake Grease.
The Hawk High Performance Street Ceramic are a lower dust producing pad then their regular High Performance Street pads.
I did not have to file or sand anything on the pads to fits.
Most of the time I would agree with you that OEM would be the preferable option but as most Acura & Honda technician know, their OEM brakes pads produces mushy / spongy brake pedal feel and I personaly was looking to improve on the braking performance of my TL.
I did re-use the shim set on the old pads as they were still good after I cleaned them out & re-lubed with CRC Synthetic Brake Grease.
The Hawk High Performance Street Ceramic are a lower dust producing pad then their regular High Performance Street pads.
I did not have to file or sand anything on the pads to fits.
Most of the time I would agree with you that OEM would be the preferable option but as most Acura & Honda technician know, their OEM brakes pads produces mushy / spongy brake pedal feel and I personaly was looking to improve on the braking performance of my TL.
Originally Posted by 94eg!
Do the Hawk pads come with a new shim set? These cost $15 if purchased separately and should be replaced with the pads. They are included with the OEM pads, along with a packet of Molykote M77 grease for the back sides.
Not arguing. Just pointing it out. I personally use Axxis Ultimates ceramic/kevlar pads on my race/street Civic. Love the performance, but they make tons of dust (time for some dark wheels). I've also found that most aftermarket pads tend to require a little massaging to get that perfect fit. I typically have to grind & sand the ears a little, and this is never necessary with OEM.
I guess my point is that I wanted the OP to understand that OEM parts are cheaper, and worry free. And as I pointed out, there is no reason to replace the rotors if they are within spec (unless your having vibrational problems like frenchnew)...
Not arguing. Just pointing it out. I personally use Axxis Ultimates ceramic/kevlar pads on my race/street Civic. Love the performance, but they make tons of dust (time for some dark wheels). I've also found that most aftermarket pads tend to require a little massaging to get that perfect fit. I typically have to grind & sand the ears a little, and this is never necessary with OEM.
I guess my point is that I wanted the OP to understand that OEM parts are cheaper, and worry free. And as I pointed out, there is no reason to replace the rotors if they are within spec (unless your having vibrational problems like frenchnew)...
08-02-2007, 09:45 PM
#30
Originally Posted by bloodylankan
So you think i should go with these:
Heeltoe: (plus taxes, duty and customs)
Hawk HPS, FR, Standard (this the one that comes up to $309.70 US
instead of these local ones i can get without shipping cost and etc:
Part Source: (no shipping cost involved)
Ceramic Pads = 62.89 CDN
EBC Pads(green) = 106.00 CDN
Hawk Pads = 125.00 CDN
Slotted Rotors = $260.00 CDN a set
Heeltoe: (plus taxes, duty and customs)
Hawk HPS, FR, Standard (this the one that comes up to $309.70 US
instead of these local ones i can get without shipping cost and etc:
Part Source: (no shipping cost involved)
Ceramic Pads = 62.89 CDN
EBC Pads(green) = 106.00 CDN
Hawk Pads = 125.00 CDN
Slotted Rotors = $260.00 CDN a set
Take the Racing Brake 1 pieces front rotors for the Acura, their curve ventilation vane is unique to them and after 1 week of experience, I am impressed as they do not show sign of surface rust on their braking surfaces after the cars has not been used for 2 days. This used to be the the case of the OEM rotors would show signs of surface rust after 2 days.
If you have not visited Racing Brake's website, I would suggest that you visit their site and read all the material provided as it is quite interesting.
The same applies to brakes pads and there is even more brake friction material manufacturers out there then brake rotors.
The main difference between Hawk HPS and Hawk HPS Ceramic, the ceramic is a lower dust producing version of the HPS pads.
Frenchnew
08-02-2007, 09:49 PM
#31
Thats odd your Hawks had no plate attached
Every set of HPS I have had in my hands was equipped with them already bonded on
Maybe its just the ceramics?
Good choice on the grease- make sure the end tabs got a dab as well as the backs
Every set of HPS I have had in my hands was equipped with them already bonded on
Maybe its just the ceramics?
Good choice on the grease- make sure the end tabs got a dab as well as the backs
08-02-2007, 10:12 PM
#32
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
Thats odd your Hawks had no plate attached
Every set of HPS I have had in my hands was equipped with them already bonded on
Maybe its just the ceramics?
Good choice on the grease- make sure the end tabs got a dab as well as the backs
Every set of HPS I have had in my hands was equipped with them already bonded on
Maybe its just the ceramics?
Good choice on the grease- make sure the end tabs got a dab as well as the backs
Eh! Come On, give me some credit please!
Cleaned all the guides out, apply fresh grease to the guide's surfaces and the the end of the tabs on the pad (Just enough so as to prevent getting a glob of grease ending on the rotors or the friction material).
08-03-2007, 02:39 PM
#33
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Thread Starter
Now i also got a hook up for Acura Stock Rotors and Pads at cost price straight from the dealer which will cost me exactly
Rotors - $113.85
Pads - 63.48
but im still thinking the heeltoe ones are a better deal arent they?
Rotors - $113.85
Pads - 63.48
but im still thinking the heeltoe ones are a better deal arent they?
08-03-2007, 02:47 PM
#34
it you want to same crap OE rotors and pads then get them
Otherwise you know what I use!
Otherwise you know what I use!
08-07-2007, 08:12 PM
#35
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Thread Starter
I JUST ORDERED IN THE ROTORS AND PADS FROM "Heeltoe" Hawk HPS, FR, Standard
cant wait for them to arrive, wanna try em out asap.
just wanna say thanks to everyone who helped me out with this
cant wait for them to arrive, wanna try em out asap.
just wanna say thanks to everyone who helped me out with this
08-07-2007, 09:42 PM
#37
wow I looked at the rotora's from excelerate and for all 4 rotors and pads for 6MT shipped to canada it's 700bucks. My rotors are warpped and i need a solution thats reasonable. If i didn't have to pay 110 shipping the rotoras would be more considerable but geeebus. anyone in canada have solutions?
08-07-2007, 09:45 PM
#38
The 6 mt Brembos only have the choice or Rotora 1 piece or Racing Brake 2 piece
Making an american friend near the border helps-look in the Off Topic meets section for something near you and make a contact
or ship to a mailbox rental/parcel sending place on this side-look on the interet for one, take a few tools and pop them on- drive home
Making an american friend near the border helps-look in the Off Topic meets section for something near you and make a contact
or ship to a mailbox rental/parcel sending place on this side-look on the interet for one, take a few tools and pop them on- drive home
08-07-2007, 10:44 PM
#39
Originally Posted by 01tl4tl
The 6 mt Brembos only have the choice or Rotora 1 piece or Racing Brake 2 piece
Making an american friend near the border helps-look in the Off Topic meets section for something near you and make a contact
or ship to a mailbox rental/parcel sending place on this side-look on the interet for one, take a few tools and pop them on- drive home
Making an american friend near the border helps-look in the Off Topic meets section for something near you and make a contact
or ship to a mailbox rental/parcel sending place on this side-look on the interet for one, take a few tools and pop them on- drive home
I can't afford to be flagged as someone that is trying to fool the Customs out of tax money, I travel several times per year to USA for my job.
Imagine that my name is in the Custom's computer system, Cavity search everytime
No thank you.
08-07-2007, 11:36 PM
#40
I've done it before, with tires, but it's a real pain in the ass. I don't want to be sweating it out in a wal mart parking lot installing brakes. I'm starting to get dismayed there aren't much options for rotors it's either rotoras or racingbrakes or OEM (I can get at COst) but i want something slotted that will last longer than 60K.