Deadgame28

Hey guys, I have the '05 TL, 6 speed. I took a look at my front pads and the centers seem to be thicker than the ends of the pads. Sorta like they are tapering. Looking at them as they are loaded into the caliper, top and bottom are thinner than the center. The top and bottom don't even seem like they are contacting the rotors. Are they wearing correctly?


2nd part; If I replace my rotors/pads, should I do them all of them? Should I go with OEM or Rotora? Slotted/drilled or combo of both? Is it a huge difference? If I get the Rotoras, which pads should I get? BTW, I'm ridin' 20" wheels-if it makes a difference.

Thanks!

Tech7427

id stick with the OEM Brembo pads, and yes its typical to see the pads wear like that, even when you cut the rotor, the very inside of the rotor will be higher than the outside circumference.

the reason why is that the most pressure is applied to the outisde of the brake pads. causing the tapered where, its the way the pads set against the pistons. its what happens..

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

the brake pads are like that, their is no problem with them unless u got little pad life left. id replace the rotors and pads in pairs never one at a time. for the rotors and pads it depends on your budget and how much stopping power u want.

Deadgame28

It seems like my fronts are wearing thin, but my rears are fine. Should I change the fronts and the rears at the same time? Would it be gay to do the rotoras up front, but leave the rears stock until they need changed. One last thing, can I use the rotora rotors with Brembo pads?

Thanks for the replies.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

the front rotors and pads are gonna wear faster then the rear bc they do most of the stopping. as for the rotora rotors with brembo pads im not to sure.

Tripnbeats

have ur system bled by acura....my mechanic there uses a pressurized flush n then does it by hand to adujst the pressure on each side of the brembo......because he says each brembo caliper has 2 bleeding points and you have to bleed the insides first and outside second..... i dont know the bleeding procedure though.

handy911

is there a warning system when the brake pads need to be changed?

if I am not mistaken, when we do the B maintenance, the brake pads are supposed to be checked.

I was told that under normal wear and tear, front brake pads require changing every 25K miles.

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Tech7427

who the fuck are you talking to?

and the brembo caliper only has one bleeder..

the brake pads require changing when they are worn out, technicially 2/32"

there is no warning system like bmw or vw.

the a and b service both check brakes.

hell i check brakes on a oil change, doesnt hurt to upsell..

u1arunit

iTrader: (1)

I hope you aren't an Acura tech. You should know that the front Brembo calipers have TWO bleeders, an inboard and an outboard.

Rajca

iTrader: (8)

hes an acura trained tech

Tech7427

lol. im sorry. i didnt know wtf i was thinking. last night i had people over and , well, alcohol takes affect hahaha..
anyway, merry christmas..

Tripnbeats

wow im pretty redeyed when i write this shit up and i look it up in the service manual if im not 100% b4 i start flappin my jaw. and they do have an indicator not electronically but mechanically on the pad itself itll start squealing or grinding and the question deadgame asked is pertaining to his uneven wear not to service a and b and when the tech should check it.

Deadgame28

Thanks again for all the replies... I live about 2 hours from the closest Acura dealer. I am going to try and change the pads/rotors myself. There aren't any special tools needed for the rotor change, are there? How much should a brake bleed cost? Is a mandatory thing when changing the brakes?

Tripnbeats

bleeding isnt mandatory at every pad change but def should be done every 30k. In your situation do it, its mandatory. itll return the correct pressures to all sides of calipers and pistons. no special tools required. just make sure u know how to do the pads on brembos and your golden if you dont theres a write up in the 3G Garage. the bleeding at acura shouldnt be more than 140. once all the parts arrive id have acura install and pressurize the system it shouldnt be more than 2 hours labor. your not buying anything from them your just using their services.

Tech7427

impact driver with good bits. phillps..

some sand paper for hub cleaning.

honda assembly paste for the pads. and or the brembo. i just personally like honda's.

2 small prybars to compress the pistons back in.

and a small punch for the pad spring pin's.

hammer. lol

i havent read the write up so i dont know how in depth it goes..

Bearcat94

Should still be the same. Front has most of the weight, so front brakes do most of the stopping.

Tech7427

the front brakes do supply most of the braking power. but thats only because of the proportioning valve.

SouthernBoy

The front pads used on the stock Brembo rotors for the 6MT TL are tapered on the ends new from the factory as are replacement pads as well. They are not straight (as in totally flat) across their surface.. the ends are angled (tapered).

I replaced mine 2 1/2 years ago with Rotex Kevlar Golds solely for the purpose of reducing/eliminating the robust amount of dusting. The Rotex pads reduced dusting by around 80 to 90%, however the stock pads are better in terms of aggressive braking.

Just make sure you bed your new pads in properly if you change out the pads and do not change the rotors.

SouthernBoy

Oops. Make that a year and a half ago.. as in April of 2006.

Tripnbeats

everycar in the world has the same thing going on. THE FRONT BRAKES PROVIDE 90% OF THE STOPPING POWER. southern have your rotors warped from using other pads??? I tried 3 diff kinds and made sure to use the shims and everything the same way brembo has it set up...but no matter what theyd warp.

SouthernBoy

Actually the front brakes impose around 65% of the braking force in general. With the TL, this varies depending upon load.. a designed in feature of the TL's rather advanced braking system.

No, my rotors have not warped at all. The wear patterns are excellent and the braking action is very smooth and even. On occasion, I have deliberately paid strict attention to this by slipping the transmission into neutral and lightly braking to see if there is any sign of warpage.. and there isn't one bit of it.

I didn't re-use the stock OEM shims, but I think I should have since they are suppose to help with squealing. But the only time my brakes squeal is when backing up from a parking spot, and even then not always.