Brake Bleed vs. Drain and Refill Reservoir
#41
Actually, with your statements a reply probably isn't worth the effort, but thought I might try.
It won't circulate, period. Do you believe that there's a loop for the fluid to return to the reservoir, similar to the rest of the fluid in the car? Condensation forms in all brake systems and will remain the lower part of the caliper, and if it becomes excess, the piston(s) will become sticky, period. Brake degradation won't occur when condensation is present and for you to state there is none in your system; it's like walking the plank.
Best thing people can do if they don't want to bleed the system, open the bleeder when changing pads, push in the piston(s) and fluid will be pushed out the bleeder, close bleeder, this will help.
It won't circulate, period. Do you believe that there's a loop for the fluid to return to the reservoir, similar to the rest of the fluid in the car? Condensation forms in all brake systems and will remain the lower part of the caliper, and if it becomes excess, the piston(s) will become sticky, period. Brake degradation won't occur when condensation is present and for you to state there is none in your system; it's like walking the plank.
Best thing people can do if they don't want to bleed the system, open the bleeder when changing pads, push in the piston(s) and fluid will be pushed out the bleeder, close bleeder, this will help.
#42
You must be joking or you know nothing about how a brake system works. IHC knows what he's talking about, you should listen. IHC, I'm going to flush my PS with RL hi temp plus 2 ozs of break in additive per qt. would this be correct? sorry to hijack the thread but IHC's inbox is full
Last edited by 1KLRTOY; 12-24-2013 at 04:54 PM.
#45
You're joking, right? Explain how this fluid circulates. Explain how contaminates such as water defy gravity with no pump and get into the reservoir. The discoloration is mostly water that has made its way into the reservoir.
#46
You do know that the master cylinder isn't a sealed unit as it has to be vented and the fluid chemistry is prone to change color when exposed to moisture that is abundant in the atmoshere.
#47
You must be joking or you know nothing about how a brake system works. IHC knows what he's talking about, you should listen. IHC, I'm going to flush my PS with RL hi temp plus 2 ozs of break in additive per qt. would this be correct? sorry to hijack the thread but IHC's inbox is full
I would be careful with the ATF in the power steering. I believe it will work better than the stock fluid but I'm the only one that has tried it that I know of. From the beginning I believed that leaks would be the only possible issue and I just checked it for leaks and found none. Still, only a year with the fluid is not enough to call it good for the majority. As long as you have the means for repair if something like a leak occurs I say to for it, there are several reasons the High Temp (and maybe the Type F) will be considerably better than stock but I would feel bad if something went out on your car.
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