Hi everyone,
Earlier this year I asked if anyone had info on lean conditions, and misfires (not enough to throw codes) or other issues. A user asked if the timing belt that was put in 20k miles ago was authentic. According to the previous owner, it was. That said, the serpentine belt that was part of the kit already shows cracks in it.
My question is: I bought an OEM timing belt a and plan to put it on. Using a borescope camera, I took some pictures of the cylinder heads to see if there was any contact between the heads and the valves... Does anyone think these marks are an issue? I check 2 of the front cylinders

Highlighted possible damage

Walls

Clearer image

Wall and cylinder head
The car is in excellent shape otherwise for almost 200k miles. Currently, I'm thinking to go through the work of putting the new OEM timing kit in and hoping for the best. Correct me if I'm wrong but it being a SOHC, there's a better chance of it surviving than a DOHC. Also, may be good to get a compression test. I should say that, I'm willing to put a new engine in this car if it is, in fact, bad.

Any input would be helpful. Thanks so much

 

So, when my timing belt broke, I did the same thing - my borescope results did not show anything on the tops of the pistons besides the designated valve recesses. It does indeed look like there may have been some contact with your pics. Is it enough to render the head useless? Who knows. It's not exactly the easiest thing in the world to throw a new belt on, especially if there is collateral damage from your broken one (crank sensor, crank plate, timing covers, etc).

On mine, I replaced all of the broken items, threw a new belt on, and it miraculously started up and ran like new. Now, obviously yours doesn't look as promising, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try, especially if you already have the belt. If you're able to start it, and nothing is immediately obvious, you should definitely do a compression/leakdown test.

 

If you go the route of replacing the engine, consider a J35A6 out of the 05-06 Odyssey (LX/EX only) it is literally a direct drop in.
Reference the thread below:
Teh CL's... $500 6spd TL - AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

 

Thank you for your replies! I've been busy/traveling for work, so have not yet had time to put on the timing belt kit. Honestly, I'm not afraid of putting a new engine in if necessary, and this would be a vast upgrade to me. Imagine not buying premium gas right now!? Also, I have the original clutch in there- might be a great time to replace that too, even though it seems ok. (besides that fact that if I power shift in a blue moon, clutch pedal sticks, and I can't shift. Unsure if that's a clutch issue or a hydraulic slave/master cylinder issue)

Thanks again, and I'll keep updating. Working in Phoenix for a month, so maybe I'll get something done before then.

 

Update! (See images) Finally back from working on the road and to get my hands dirty working on this thing (namely from the leaking valve covers)
Unfortunately, taking off the timing belt covers, I found this mouse nest of a catastrophe. I never thought that a timing belt cold break, and shear pieces off that sprocket in there, damaging the crank sensor, the holder, and the timing belt cover.

Currently, I'm thinking new engine. J35 from a Honda Odyssey as mentioned above. Buying regular gas vs. premium might be nice here in NY State

What do you all think?

Thanks so much


Outside of timing cover

Carnage under timing cover


Metal pieces and sprocket

Close up

 

I would go with the new engine.

 

For what it's worth, mine looked exactly the same when the timing belt broke. Granted, the belt sprocket on mine remained in once piece.....I think i had to replace the sprocket plate, the little aluminum shield for the crank sensor (the one in the last pic, it looks like your cps may have survived?), as well as the plastics for the timing cover.

I know I sound crazy, but if it were me, I'd still try to throw a new belt on just for fun. What's another 20 bucks at this point if you're looking at a new engine. I cannot even explain how surprised I was when I did so and my car started up just like new.

Is it useless in your case? Maybe, especially considering what appears to be valve contact on the tops of the cylinders. Never mind the fact that your belt sprocket might not even work properly anymore, or your CPS.

But again, this is as easy as it'll ever be. Disconnect the tensioner, throw on the new belt, reinstall tensioner, make sure the engine is in time (you'll also know you're SOL if you can't rotate the engine all the way around by hand).....and then all you have to do is start it and see. Don't need to reassemble anything, you just won't have alternator power and be running solely off the battery.

Idk. I've also been told I'm a "toxic optimist"

 

^^^ I agree^^
It can't hurt to simply throw a new belt on there and hope for the best. Best-case scenario is you had zero P2V contact, and your engine works again. Worst-case (which you're already assuming is the case) is you're in exactly the same boat as you currently are.
I too have had crazy good luck by accidentally installing my Subaru's timing belt with the crank 90* out of time to the cams and attempted to start the engine a coupla times, and once I realized that, re-installed it correctly and that engine has lasted 10K miles @ ~500awhp thus far.

I say throw a cheap belt on there and giv'r hell!

 

I'd be inclined to do two things:

• New timing belt as recommended above
• Pull the heads and have the unbent valves refaced and the bent valves replaced, and yes, I am about 90% certain you have at least a few bent valves.

 

I might be too late to provide any help at this point, but it's really cheap to buy an engine compression gauge ($14 on Amazon - since you'll use it "once") and verify that your cylinder holds compression. It does require you to pull your spark plug to use.

Although this tool is typically used to verify piston seals, it will also help indicate if your valve(s) are bent, as on the compression stroke, if either the intake and/or exhaust values are bent and do not sit flush in the head, you'll read "0" psi.....where bad piston seals will at least give you "some" reading on the gauge.

Let's say your valves are bent....if this were me, I'd pull the head and replace the valves...not buy a new engine, unless you think the bottom end has issues, like scored cylinder walls, bad main bearings, etc. I'd do all valve seals, too.

Please post your fix....

Cheers!

 

Hi! Thank you for all the replies!
I work on the road, and am in the process of buying a house, so I stick to driving my '04 Ranger when I could be cruising in a sweet 6 speed TL with an Endless RPM exhaust

While I look at what to do, I'm inclined to throw a cheap belt on. I was not expecting a reply like this.
If that doesn't work, I'll move ahead with paying that 1800 for an engine, flywheel, clutch, stabilizer bar bushings. On the upside, the J35A6 is a lower compression engine, and I'd able to put E87 in it.

That said, the engine ran very smoothly just hours before it died.

Either way, I appreciate the help and unexpected answers! Your input is priceless.

Long and short: I'm on the fence. Will update!!

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...-again-999415/
Buy Aisin kit from Rock auto. If it does not work, piston hit valve, bring head one or two if needed from you pull. I do not know what is with always bring engine story at forums.

 

Thanks for your reply. That is the exact kit that I have already, so we're good there! Thanks for the confirmation.
I just don't understand the line "I do not know what is with always bring engine story at forums", could you explain?

Thanks much!

 

^^^ IMO it is easy to pull off cylinder head from engine at U-pull. Throw on the new kit. If the engine is leaking check compression. Bring cylinder head form U-pull if need. My guess is you will not need it. I do not feel like bringing a complete engine is necessary. If you replace only timing belt it is good chance, like what happened to my acura, that will pulleys go in 30k or so. Cylinder head is 60$ at my U-pull.

 

Understood. I was also considering getting the heads rebuilt. The machine shop down the road from me will resurface, check seating of each valve, and clean for $90 a head.

 

Big for me about U-pull is when I go there whatsoever I do wrong I learn there not on my car. Again I would give you 70% chance that yours engine is good.

 

better to mess up on a wrecked TL vs your own

 

That's a damn-good price--do it.