Frosty

iTrader: (7)

Sweet! I'm glad the new lights fixed your issue.

Yep, they have 2 new LED Editions that will work for the same applications we are using these Blue Edition LEDs for. Here's the breakdown based on what I've gathered from the seller:

Blue 40W Edition (what I reviewed in post #1): 6500k, 4800 lumens (total), rear-mounted heatsink

Black 60W Edition: 5500k, 6000 lumens (total), rear-mounted heatsink

JDM 60W Edition: 5800k, 6000 lumens (total), rear-mounted FAN


The seller isn't a huge fan of the JDM edition because of the fans. He says they can be somewhat noisy. Out of the bunch, I think the Black Edition is probably the best choice right now. From his testing, the seller confirmed that the Black Edition is slightly brighter than the Blue Edition.

The GTXM2 coupon code will work for each of these 3 LED Editions, as well as any other products on the site.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

Can you ask the seller to send you pictures of the color difference between the blue and black edition?

Hobbz160

Frosty which of the two ( blue and black edition) would match the orasm cbi the best ?

QuickTL07

Fak!!! didnt look here before ordering the wires lol damn i hope they could replace it for me... but good part is it will take me about 5 min to replace them.

emmvee

i was thinking of having LEDs as my daytime driving lights, and it doesnt seem like a bad idea after looking at this thread

QuickTL07

make sure you get the right stuff not like me.

NBP04TL4ME

I'd like to see this as well.........

Frosty

iTrader: (7)

The seller sent me a picture comparing the Blue Edition (driver side) and Black Edition (passenger side). He acknowledged that they look pretty similar in the picture, but assured me the Black Edition has noticeably less blue in real life compared to the Blue Edition (makes sense!).


Hobbz160, I have the Blue Edition and they are a pretty good match for my CBIs, but I'm sure the Black Edition would be even better.

MyGuti

Took some pics of my car today. You can see the DRLS first mentioned in this thread as well and how they look during the day.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/128502758@N04/

Hobbz160

Thanks frosty I'm ordering the black edition . I'll post some pics as soon as I install them.

Those are some nice pics myguti!!!!

eaf

Is this with harness, or without? If it's without, does the "Check DRL" light come up in the console?

MyGuti

With the ijdmtoy harness. It's very easy to use. And no DRL notification obviously.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

Soooooo one of my bulbs went out..... gonna check over the weekend if it is the bulb or harness. I doubt that it's the harness but ya never know. I won't be happy if it's the bulb thats for sure.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn't be happy either.

Report back

Frosty

iTrader: (7)

As far as I know, the two LEDs on the light are completely independent from each other. I have a hard time believing that BOTH would fail simultaneously. I suspect the harness to be the culprit (or simply a loose connection).

Should you find that the light itself is, in fact, to blame, you can send an email over to GTLightingInfo@gmail.com for information on the exchange process.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Only one of his bulbs stopped working

Frosty

iTrader: (7)

I was referring to the TWO individual LEDs on each bulb.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

I'm sure he's referring to the bulb, opposed to the LEDs on the bulb

You're right though, it could be a connection issue when both go out.
Could always be internal, too.
I've had it happen with my old DRL LEDs where all LEDs went out.

Frosty

iTrader: (7)

I think you need to revisit my reply to CubanLynx84 in post #455. You are obviously having a hard time reading and/or understanding it. I thought I made myself rather clear.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Check edit.

Just because the LEDs on a bulb are independent from each other, doesn't mean the wiring at the base of the bulb (inside) where they come together isn't bad

I see where I misread your post, I thought you said two bulbs, opposed to two LEDs lol

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

It's definitely not the harness as I have every connection taped up tight and secure. I'm certain the BULB is out. I doubt the 2 leds on the bulb are independent of each other

Frosty

iTrader: (7)

I confirmed with the seller that the two LEDs on the bulb ARE independent of each other.

Please check your connections. Also, try moving the working bulb to the other side and see if it illuminates.

Hobbz160

I just receive my lights but the seller sent me the wrong bulbs (blue edition) . I sent them a email , now I'm just waiting for a response

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

I just took the bulb out..... the led has melted! So like I said it's the bulb.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

Flyest Ever

iTrader: (2)

oops... Just about to find out how the fitment was on the type s fogs.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

Using them in my drls..... was going to get a set for the fogs next. But it ain't looking so promising right now.

Frosty

iTrader: (7)

Does only one LED look like that, or both?

Also, I remember you saying this awhile back when you were finally able to get the lights working after numerous failed attempts:


Can you elaborate more on this "reverse engineering" that you performed on the harness?

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

One side melted the other is dim. All I did was flip the harness around to work. And went thru that with vleds. Nonetheless the bulb blew out.

Why is it that every time someone posts something not to your liking about the bulbs you get all defensive? I get it your in bed with the product and helping to sell it but the reality is the product failed. I'm not the only one the bulbs have given problems to. I contacted the seller and I will see what the outcome is. But for what we paid for these bulbs things like this should not be happening only after 2 months of usage. My vleds bulbs lasted years and are still good. Granted the light output wasn't as bright as these but they still work.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Should check out the XML2 fog bulbs offered by diode dynamics or the more expensive options from VLEDs for the 9005 bulbs. I'll make a video of my accord, I've installed their MT-G2's (3000 lumen per bulb) in both my DRL and low beams and diode dynamic's XML2 fog bulbs in my fogs with VLED V3 triton switchbacks. It was expensive, but it looks great.

I'll be honest, this vendor's mounting of the LEDs and price had me searching for another vendor with high-power LEDs for automotive bulbs. Diode dynamics has the diodes mounted onto a MCPCB which is mounted onto the heatsink and has a driver inside of it, which is the norm for these high-power LEDs.

Take a look at how each LED is mounted to that heatsink in gtlighting's design and then take a look at how diode dynamics mounted theirs or VLEDs mounted their MT-G2's you'll see a huge difference - and for good reason the thermal junction of the LED is determined by how it is mounted. Which also effects the maximum forward current and heat the LED can handle.

The way the diodes are mounted is critical, if a poor thermal junction is made between the solder pad on the bottom of the LED and the MCPCB that it's mounted to it won't be able to effectively conduct away heat.

Those LEDs look like there is an air-gap directly under the center of the LED which should be flat against a MCPCB to help create a good thermal junction and conduct heat away from the LED.

The diodedynamics XML2 fog bulbs are about the same price, like $120 for a pair. The VLEDs MT-G2's are more expensive though but, 1000 lumens more light per bulb and they also have a fan mounted to them, a huge heatsink and an external driver to regulate the current through the LED.

Regardless of what you did with the harness the most voltage you could've applied to them is 12V or 13.3-14V when the car is running which shouldn't of caused a problem. If they turned on and were brighter they weren't reverse biased either, they wouldn't of illuminated if they were.

If they were reverse biased then they may not have any reverse polarity protection and you could've reverse biased the LED causing it to blow, the max reverse voltage the XML diode can take is 5V.

With two LEDs on the bulb the vendor is already over-driving them or soaking up a lot of heat in the heat sink if they're direct driven. CREE's XML's support a max of 3A of current for each bulb and 3.3V across the diode will drive one at 3A for 10W per bulb (provided your power source can dish out that much juice at 3.3V, granted your car is more than capable of it), with two LEDs at 6.6V (if they were in series) direct driven you're at 6A of current draw and still have another 5.4V applied to the circuit to account for which would have to go across a resistor if they're direct driven.

If they're parallel like frosty stated then direct driven then each LED has around 12V sitting across it or the heatsink has a resistor in it that is only allowing around 3.3V to be dropped by each LED and the resistor would be dropping the rest of the voltage (that's 8.7V on a resistor or about 10V when the alternator is running, at 3A to provide max current through the LED it'd have to be dropping around 26W per LED to safely direct drive these 10W LEDs off the car's voltage in parallel making EACH BULB 72W to provide maximum output). Either that or they're grossly under-driven to get the heat down.

They have to use some type of driver since automotive voltage is 12V off the battery or 13.3-14V when the car is running, that voltage has to be reduced to safely power the XML LEDs which are 10W each max, direct driving them in a car is the wrong way to go with such a high voltage applied and such a low voltage needed. Also if they didn't put any reverse polarity protection into their product it's not a very good design, but these are the least expensive option for XML bulbs on the market that I've seen, diodedynamics has the better design for the XML's and VLEDs have even more powerful ones than the XMLs.

Here's a spec sheet for CREE's XML LEDs:

http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cr...g/XLampXML.pdf

I went with the MT-G2's in my accord because not only are they brighter and plug and play for me but CREE's MT-G2's datasheet is spec'd at 85 degrees centigrade. Their other LEDs are spec'd at 25 degrees centigrade, and the XML has a thermal resistance of 2.5 degrees centigrade per watt (it's a 10W LED max) where-as the MT-G2 is 1.5 degrees centigrade per watt

Cree Components Products XLamp MTG2 EasyWhite

My if you want the XML fogs, I'd pay the extra money (not that much) and get them from diodedynamics, they do a lot of testing on their bulbs and have some good info on LED brightness here:

LED Brightness - LED - Research

Last note, I can guarantee they are not 2400 lumens per bulb, they would have to be over-driven to do that and their output would rapidly drop due to heat build up.

Proof:

In an LED more heat = less light.

CREE specs the XML @ 25 degrees centigrade

The XML U-2 (highest bin code) provides 975 lumens per bulb at 3A of drive current also at 25 degrees centigrade

2x diodes on each bulb = MAX possible lumens of 1950 if both are driven at 3A and maintain a 25 degree centigrade temperature

I can guarantee that thing gets hotter than 25 centigrade when it's on. It's probably more like 1500 - 1800 lumens per bulb when they're at operating temp.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

To conclude, YES, LEDs do fail, and it's not always the harness as proven.
There's MUCH more going on than a positive 12V lead and negative lead going into the XML-2 LED in the bulb, that's why I don't point fingers at the harness right away.
When my JLC DRL bulb failed, I shook the bulb and heard something loose rattling inside there.
Opened the case, which revealed a circuitry board, and a SS24 Schottky diode that somehow came off the board. Maybe heat, maybe anything. The bulb has definitely failed, though.

Nice writeup mzilvar.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Here's some videos, of the VLED MT-G2's and the diode dynamics XML's

Note on the Accord the DRL's are also the high-beams and the way Honda changes the output from the light from DRL mode to high-beam mode is by pulsing the light on and off while in DRL mode and having it constantly on in high-beam mode. My camera picked up this pulsing while I was parked so it looks like a strobe but that is invisible to the naked eye.

Also one of the DRL's is mounted with the LED horizontal and the other has it vertical in the housing, that's simply the way they fit into the accord housings, which is why one of the DRL/High beams looks wider and shorter than the other one against the wall. It's just polarized in the housing differently.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the write up mzilvar. I think I'll just get the vleds bulbs...gonna wait to see what happens here with the burnt led bulb first.

YeuEmMaiMai

there is one problem with LED lights, they do not produce enough heat to keep your headlights snow free

nist7

Okay read through alot of the thread and since I drive a 06 base stock TL this is what I've come up with:

These LEDs can be used plug and play WITH NO harness needed for the 04-06 base upper fog lights.

Fitment for the 04-06 upper fog may be bit loose, "normal" due to design. May use duck tape for better seal. One user did see condensation inside the light housing due to loose fitment.

Noise with radio is another reported possibility. A ferrite core, cord noise suppressor may help reduce this. Not sure if a solution has been found yet. But some LEDs seem to have no problem with radio interference.

Another kinda stupid question, when I go to the website frosty linked, where it says to enter "Quantity" if I order "1" does it come in a pair (ie 2 actual bulbs) or do I have to choose the quantity as "2" ?

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Comes in a pair. Enter quantity as 1.

CubanLynx84

iTrader: (2)

So I just took out the other bulb as well just to check that one and I wasn't surprised to find it is melting as well. So I am supposed to return the bulb for a new one but I think I am just going to get a refund for them because this will happen again. I advise anyone using them to pull them out and look at them to see if they're burnt/burning before it causes more damage than they are worth.

Frosty

iTrader: (7)

I picked up a new ride last week and will be installing these LEDs soon. I'm very anxious to see how they will look in a projector housing. Stay tuned!

polobunny

I'm kinda glad I read this. I was thinking of buying LED for my DRLs, but it might be wiser for me to stick with halogens... or always drive with the HIDs on (kinda defeats the purpose of DRLs though...)

acupower

Solved the issue with radio interference. I bought a bunch of ferrite cores from E-bay and installed them on the wire going straight to the LED bulb. I put 3 on each bulb. Also, I bought a set of capacitors from VLEDs for $25 in order to eliminate the very slightly noticeable flicker in my right bulb.

Outcome: Zero radio interference and absolutely no flicker. Negative: I lost the ability to flash my DRL/highbeams during the day.