Best $100 mod/mods
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,096
Likes: 414
From: Scarborough, Ontario
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
Just because its the thickest bar does not automatically make it the most improved performance. OP depends if you have an auto or a manual. If you have an auto go with the comptech because it will matchup better with your auto front sway bar. If you plan on getting a type S front sway bar then you shud go with a progress rsb.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
For the 6mt and especially the Type-S with it's larger and solid front swaybar, the Progress 24mm would be the better choice.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,785
Likes: 96
22mm vs 24mm. Too thick on the rear and the car becomes tailhappy. It will feel like it handles great until you push the limit and it swaps ends on you. The 22mm Comptech should be perfect for the stock small 5at FSB. Overall handling balance will be better.
For the 6mt and especially the Type-S with it's larger and solid front swaybar, the Progress 24mm would be the better choice.
For the 6mt and especially the Type-S with it's larger and solid front swaybar, the Progress 24mm would be the better choice.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
If it were me, I would do the 22mm. I've never run the 25/20mm combo but based on the 25/22 combo it's almost perfectly neutral with just a touch of oversteer in some situations. Either would work fine, I think it's a matter of whether you would prefer just a touch of understeer or oversteer.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 81
Likes: 2
From: Raleigh, NC
no offense but i believe this is the most complete waste of 12 dollars i rather go to chipotle and buy 2 steak burritos lol
there is a reason why there is a key insert on the drivers side. It serves for emergency purposes. If you lose your remote or it comes off ur keychain then you can always use your key to open the car.
...i have a viper remote so im screwed if i dont have my remote but i still dont do the mod just incase i need to open the car
-------Tim-------
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,554
Likes: 614
From: Tampa, Fl
no offense but i believe this is the most complete waste of 12 dollars i rather go to chipotle and buy 2 steak burritos lol
there is a reason why there is a key insert on the drivers side. It serves for emergency purposes. If you lose your remote or it comes off ur keychain then you can always use your key to open the car.
...i have a viper remote so im screwed if i dont have my remote but i still dont do the mod just incase i need to open the car
there is a reason why there is a key insert on the drivers side. It serves for emergency purposes. If you lose your remote or it comes off ur keychain then you can always use your key to open the car.
...i have a viper remote so im screwed if i dont have my remote but i still dont do the mod just incase i need to open the car
OP-The rear sway bar is one of the best bang for your buck, around $100!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,499
Likes: 222
From: Carlsbad, CA
The swaybar has been going strong for 4 years so I would think if I were to have problems, they would have happened by now. It sounds like the endlinks are the weak part for the TL and has a 40-$60 solution in some beefier links.
turtle, here is a list of ALL the bulb sizes for your car.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-acura-tl-bulb-sizes-list-3g-garage-g-077-a-691135/
i got every single one of my LED's from eBay, and saved a lot of money that way. i have not had a single problem with them whatsoever. i posted a complete line-up of the ones that i got, search my name and find my post...i don't know which thread i posted it in, i can't remember.
the only ones i got from v-leds were the license plate lights. and i only did this because they ARE nicer lights, and are more durable. the fact that we open and close our trunks often has a negative impact on LED's, and i found that the v-leds were better made.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/3g-acura-tl-bulb-sizes-list-3g-garage-g-077-a-691135/
i got every single one of my LED's from eBay, and saved a lot of money that way. i have not had a single problem with them whatsoever. i posted a complete line-up of the ones that i got, search my name and find my post...i don't know which thread i posted it in, i can't remember.
the only ones i got from v-leds were the license plate lights. and i only did this because they ARE nicer lights, and are more durable. the fact that we open and close our trunks often has a negative impact on LED's, and i found that the v-leds were better made.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 525
Likes: 11
From: Atlanta, Ga
no offense but i believe this is the most complete waste of 12 dollars i rather go to chipotle and buy 2 steak burritos lol
there is a reason why there is a key insert on the drivers side. It serves for emergency purposes. If you lose your remote or it comes off ur keychain then you can always use your key to open the car.
...i have a viper remote so im screwed if i dont have my remote but i still dont do the mod just incase i need to open the car
there is a reason why there is a key insert on the drivers side. It serves for emergency purposes. If you lose your remote or it comes off ur keychain then you can always use your key to open the car.
...i have a viper remote so im screwed if i dont have my remote but i still dont do the mod just incase i need to open the car
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,670
Likes: 53
From: North Bergen, NJ
. I tailed out and ended up with close to $9000 in damage. I dont think it improves handling that much at all, it actually adds confidence with nothing to back up, very unpredictable. It does feel better though but dont push it.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
Yep, that's the exact reason I tell people to match the front and rear bars otherwise you're going to be in for a surprise the first time you push the limit. The worst thing is that the car feels like it corners better so as you said you get more confidence to push it. Glad you were ok.
Senior Moderator
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 21,420
Likes: 2,188
From: Space Coast, FL
the comptech 22mm is fine for most people and the 24mm progress one is a bit scary as some members have ripped off the brackets on the rear-subframe and needed to reweld them on for the Progress, and as well they have had broken endlinks! 
Comptech 22 hasn't had anything like that happen so my vote is for that, plus it's cheaper too!
-------Tim-------
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,554
Likes: 614
From: Tampa, Fl
the comptech 22mm is fine for most people and the 24mm progress one is a bit scary as some members have ripped off the brackets on the rear-subframe and needed to reweld them on for the Progress, and as well they have had broken endlinks! Comptech 22 hasn't had anything like that happen so my vote is for that, plus it's cheaper too!
I have the progress with the Type-s FSB, and like IHC said, it is a good match...
Last edited by Slpr04UA6; Dec 16, 2010 at 08:09 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
I'm trying not to turn this into a swaybar thread....
I just have to say there are other factors in the subframe ripping than just swaybar stiffness alone. Suspension travel and spring rate are two big factors. If your car is lowered on stiff springs and with a Type-S or stiffer FSB, chances are you're not going to break the mounts.
I've had no issues with the 24mm Progress bar on firm with my 28mm H&R front bar, a-specs, and Konis. However, the rear springs have been modified to be nearly twice as stiff as the stock a-spec rears for handling balance which I'm sure helps out taking stress off the rear bar.
I just have to say there are other factors in the subframe ripping than just swaybar stiffness alone. Suspension travel and spring rate are two big factors. If your car is lowered on stiff springs and with a Type-S or stiffer FSB, chances are you're not going to break the mounts.
I've had no issues with the 24mm Progress bar on firm with my 28mm H&R front bar, a-specs, and Konis. However, the rear springs have been modified to be nearly twice as stiff as the stock a-spec rears for handling balance which I'm sure helps out taking stress off the rear bar.
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,499
Likes: 222
From: Carlsbad, CA
With stock springs and shocks assumed (since we're on a $100 budget here), I think the Comptech bar seems to be a good choice.
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: edmonton
Get the interior lighting led mod with the license plate led. Best mod ever and its quite easy.
superbrightleds.com is the place to go.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/those-want-led-interior-lighting-identical-oem-755183/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/licence-plate-light-back-up-light-3g-garage-g-052-a-584870/
superbrightleds.com is the place to go.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/those-want-led-interior-lighting-identical-oem-755183/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/licence-plate-light-back-up-light-3g-garage-g-052-a-584870/
I just did a search and found no postings on the Comptech bar causing problems with endlinks or mounts but lots of hits on the Progress bar.
With stock springs and shocks assumed (since we're on a $100 budget here), I think the Comptech bar seems to be a good choice.
With stock springs and shocks assumed (since we're on a $100 budget here), I think the Comptech bar seems to be a good choice.
-------Tim-------
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,554
Likes: 614
From: Tampa, Fl
I just did a search and found no postings on the Comptech bar causing problems with endlinks or mounts but lots of hits on the Progress bar.
With stock springs and shocks assumed (since we're on a $100 budget here), I think the Comptech bar seems to be a good choice.
With stock springs and shocks assumed (since we're on a $100 budget here), I think the Comptech bar seems to be a good choice.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...y+bar+problems
Drifting
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,499
Likes: 222
From: Carlsbad, CA
I never said that is wasn't a good choice, but I did find one thread which seems to have a few members with this issue.
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...y+bar+problems
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...y+bar+problems
I had polyurethane bushings on my Maxima too and I wouldn't rule those out as a factor in breaking mounts and endlinks. I have the stock rubber bushings and have no problems after 4 years.
Confirm
I want to confirm if these fit for the whole interior bulbs because I was to buy it right the first time. I've read the bulb size garage. I just want a 2nd opinion. I'm going to buy these tomorrow. http://store.ijdmtoy.com/ProductDeta...U_C03&CartID=3.
Looks like the one issue reported with the Comptech dealt with a broken passenger mount that also included polyurethane bushings along with the Comptech bar- after two years. Despite these issues Shalooby still thought the swaybar was the best mod he did in a later post in that thead.
I had polyurethane bushings on my Maxima too and I wouldn't rule those out as a factor in breaking mounts and endlinks. I have the stock rubber bushings and have no problems after 4 years.
I had polyurethane bushings on my Maxima too and I wouldn't rule those out as a factor in breaking mounts and endlinks. I have the stock rubber bushings and have no problems after 4 years.
