Battery Warmer
Battery Warmer
I've searched and I couldn't find anything so sorry if this is a repost. I was just wondering will a battery warmer help out with starting in the morning? It's like 9 degrees out and it's been dipping into the negatives the passed couple of days and so far two times this week I've had problems starting. I have to turn everything off (fan, radio, indoor lights, and seat warmers) then on the fourth attempt it starts up. On a previous thread I posted some of the guys recommended a block heater but right now I can't afford to get one so I was just wondering would that be a good idea and if anyone has one does it even help?
I know it's a Acura battery. I took it to NAPA and they did a battery check for me and they said it was fine, but I guess I'll have to change it. Just sucks cuz I've only had it for a month wasn't looking at buying a battery anytime soon.
yea that's true but luckily for me I live on base and my work is like a 5 min. walk from my room, but then again it's freezing and there's snow everywhere so I rather have a car...
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Check all battery connections. Mine was getting hard to start at only 50F. Checked the connections and both were loose (thanks bodyshop). Now it starts fine.
Replace the battery first.
Make sure you have a 0w-20 oil in there.
If you can't afford a block heater, an oil pan (engine oil) heater is under $100.
Replace the battery first.
Make sure you have a 0w-20 oil in there.
If you can't afford a block heater, an oil pan (engine oil) heater is under $100.
Check all battery connections. Mine was getting hard to start at only 50F. Checked the connections and both were loose (thanks bodyshop). Now it starts fine.
Replace the battery first.
Make sure you have a 0w-20 oil in there.
If you can't afford a block heater, an oil pan (engine oil) heater is under $100.
Replace the battery first.
Make sure you have a 0w-20 oil in there.
If you can't afford a block heater, an oil pan (engine oil) heater is under $100.
That could be the cables. Mine was inconsistent when they were loose. Some mornings it would turn over very fast and some mornings I was worried it wasn't going to start.
Part of your problem could be your daily routine. You start the car every morning and drive for only 2 minutes (or less) with the headlights on. Then it sits for 8 hours. Another start and you drive 2 minutes(or less) with the lights on and park it for the night....
I assume you mean the car, not the battery? My Acura battery was 2 years old before I moved up here and it survived 3 winters before I decided to replace it. Granted, my car was parked in a heated garage overnight, but it cold soaked many times outdoors and never had a problem.
Exactly how old is that battery?
What type/weight of oil are you running right now?
It can't hurt, but I say it's not necessary. Check the cables first. Actually loosen them, wiggle them, clean them, reseat them, and then re-tighten them. The guys over at the auto hobby shop can help with this if you want.
I posted battery info over in your other thread.
Exactly how old is that battery?
What type/weight of oil are you running right now?
I posted battery info over in your other thread.
Last edited by nfnsquared; Dec 13, 2010 at 10:09 PM.
This surprises me. I've been driving diesel Mercedes for so long, and in really cold weather it can certainly be a crapshoot as to whether they will start. But they don't have spark.
I never thought the cold would effect a "gasser". And I never expected them to have block heaters. Always thought that was a diesel thing.
Of course, what do Texans know about cold weather.....
I never thought the cold would effect a "gasser". And I never expected them to have block heaters. Always thought that was a diesel thing.
Of course, what do Texans know about cold weather.....
Mine was doing the same thing it was the battery. I got the red top battery and its a beast 800 cca at 0 degrees and 1100 amps in warmer temperature. Five year warranty and it was 189 can't go wrong
if the battery test good and the cables are good
the prob is two-fold,,your starting and driving regime is at fault
on start- all electrics need to be OFF
what are you doing starting it with 100 amps draw already,, plus the starter amp draw!!
after start `with no accessories` in that temp, would need ~15 minutes of above 1500 rpm to recharge the battery to full
In normal temps 15 minutes with low useage of accessories, lights etc to recharge
Figure the fan, seat heat, stereo are pulling power from the battery, so the alternator struggles to keep up with that-- while it replaces the use from starting
the whole system runs on the battery--let it get recharged properly or false codes and poor running are expected
Short commute cars like this one also need a monthly 45 minute freeway cruise to fully dry moisture from exhaust and dry out all the fluids--its in the owner book
the prob is two-fold,,your starting and driving regime is at fault
on start- all electrics need to be OFF
what are you doing starting it with 100 amps draw already,, plus the starter amp draw!!
after start `with no accessories` in that temp, would need ~15 minutes of above 1500 rpm to recharge the battery to full
In normal temps 15 minutes with low useage of accessories, lights etc to recharge
Figure the fan, seat heat, stereo are pulling power from the battery, so the alternator struggles to keep up with that-- while it replaces the use from starting
the whole system runs on the battery--let it get recharged properly or false codes and poor running are expected
Short commute cars like this one also need a monthly 45 minute freeway cruise to fully dry moisture from exhaust and dry out all the fluids--its in the owner book
Part of your problem could be your daily routine. You start the car every morning and drive for only 2 minutes (or less) with the headlights on. Then it sits for 8 hours. Another start and you drive 2 minutes(or less) with the lights on and park it for the night....
I assume you mean the car, not the battery? My Acura battery was 2 years old before I moved up here and it survived 3 winters before I decided to replace it. Granted, my car was parked in a heated garage overnight, but it cold soaked many times outdoors and never had a problem.
Exactly how old is that battery?
What type/weight of oil are you running right now?
It can't hurt, but I say it's not necessary. Check the cables first. Actually loosen them, wiggle them, clean them, reseat them, and then re-tighten them. The guys over at the auto hobby shop can help with this if you want.
I posted battery info over in your other thread.
I assume you mean the car, not the battery? My Acura battery was 2 years old before I moved up here and it survived 3 winters before I decided to replace it. Granted, my car was parked in a heated garage overnight, but it cold soaked many times outdoors and never had a problem.
Exactly how old is that battery?
What type/weight of oil are you running right now?
It can't hurt, but I say it's not necessary. Check the cables first. Actually loosen them, wiggle them, clean them, reseat them, and then re-tighten them. The guys over at the auto hobby shop can help with this if you want.
I posted battery info over in your other thread.
if the battery test good and the cables are good
the prob is two-fold,,your starting and driving regime is at fault
on start- all electrics need to be OFF
what are you doing starting it with 100 amps draw already,, plus the starter amp draw!!
after start `with no accessories` in that temp, would need ~15 minutes of above 1500 rpm to recharge the battery to full
In normal temps 15 minutes with low useage of accessories, lights etc to recharge
Figure the fan, seat heat, stereo are pulling power from the battery, so the alternator struggles to keep up with that-- while it replaces the use from starting
the whole system runs on the battery--let it get recharged properly or false codes and poor running are expected
Short commute cars like this one also need a monthly 45 minute freeway cruise to fully dry moisture from exhaust and dry out all the fluids--its in the owner book
the prob is two-fold,,your starting and driving regime is at fault
on start- all electrics need to be OFF
what are you doing starting it with 100 amps draw already,, plus the starter amp draw!!
after start `with no accessories` in that temp, would need ~15 minutes of above 1500 rpm to recharge the battery to full
In normal temps 15 minutes with low useage of accessories, lights etc to recharge
Figure the fan, seat heat, stereo are pulling power from the battery, so the alternator struggles to keep up with that-- while it replaces the use from starting
the whole system runs on the battery--let it get recharged properly or false codes and poor running are expected
Short commute cars like this one also need a monthly 45 minute freeway cruise to fully dry moisture from exhaust and dry out all the fluids--its in the owner book
of my dorm.
Yea I meant the car. but basically thats what my routine is in the morning. I don't know how old the battery is and I'm using 5W-20 I bought the car in FL while I was on leave so the oil thats in there is whatever the Acura dealership put in. I just looked at my old thread and I saw your post, thanks for the great info.
Yea when I tried to start it the other morning my radio, fan, and seat warmer were on but when I turned them off it started up. As far as driving on the highway I don't drive off base, I've been here for about a month and I've only driven off base once. Since I bought my car in FL I have Summer sport tires so I'm scared enough just driving on base and the people out here drive with no care in the world. I've already had someone slide into my car IN THE PARKING LOT!!!
of my dorm.
of my dorm.What's happened is you've been starting the car under a huge load, and then driving only a very short time with no appreciable RPM for charging, all the while carrying a huge load on the electrical system (headlights and seat heater).
Take some time today after work (or some afternoon, hopefully before it gets dark) and make a 30-minute round trip on 83 to get a good charge on the battery(or go over to the auto hobby shop and see if they can put a quick charger on the battery) .
From here on out, leave everything off (or AUTO) when you shut off the car and don't use the seat heater for the short drive to work. I think you'll see a big difference.
All in all, your commute situation may be worse than leaving the car sitting during the week....
Last edited by nfnsquared; Dec 14, 2010 at 04:22 PM.
Well, 5w20 should be fine, but 0w20 can't hurt. Don't really know if you'll be able to tell a difference and I really don't think oil weight is your issue, see below.
Now I'm 99% sure your issue is not battery or oil weight. Never start the car with the seat heaters on. That's a 20amp circuit. And it's a waste to even turn them on once the car is started for only a 2-minute, low speed drive. They won't do a damn thing for you except keep your battery from charging. Get in the habit of turning the radio off before you shut off the car and always run the HVAC in AUTO (or switch it to AUTO before shutting the car off). And just leave the seat heater off period (for your daily commute).
What's happened is you've been starting the car under a huge load, and then driving only a very short time with no appreciable RPM for charging, all the while carrying a huge load on the electrical system (headlights and seat heater).
Take some time today after work (or some afternoon, hopefully before it gets dark) and make a 30-minute round trip on 83 to get a good charge on the battery(or go over to the auto hobby shop and see if they can put a quick charger on the battery) .
From here on out, leave everything off (or AUTO) when you shut off the car and don't use the seat heater for the short drive to work. I think you'll see a big difference.
All in all, your commute situation may be worse than leaving the car sitting during the week....
Now I'm 99% sure your issue is not battery or oil weight. Never start the car with the seat heaters on. That's a 20amp circuit. And it's a waste to even turn them on once the car is started for only a 2-minute, low speed drive. They won't do a damn thing for you except keep your battery from charging. Get in the habit of turning the radio off before you shut off the car and always run the HVAC in AUTO (or switch it to AUTO before shutting the car off). And just leave the seat heater off period (for your daily commute).
What's happened is you've been starting the car under a huge load, and then driving only a very short time with no appreciable RPM for charging, all the while carrying a huge load on the electrical system (headlights and seat heater).
Take some time today after work (or some afternoon, hopefully before it gets dark) and make a 30-minute round trip on 83 to get a good charge on the battery(or go over to the auto hobby shop and see if they can put a quick charger on the battery) .
From here on out, leave everything off (or AUTO) when you shut off the car and don't use the seat heater for the short drive to work. I think you'll see a big difference.
All in all, your commute situation may be worse than leaving the car sitting during the week....
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