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After damaging the originals trying to get the compliance bushings out I just put in a set of the AC delco professionals from rock auto. So far so good like 25k, though I've seen people say they haven't had the best luck with aftermarket compliance bushings. When going aftermarket I tend to just buy the brand name pro line stuff. But yeah OEM is probably the way to go.
replacing the bushings and not the whole arm is substantially cheaper...a lot of times it's ONLY the compliance bushing that is screwed anyway.
Unless it's due to rust in which case I'd still prefer to buy the arm on ebay and then press in some new bushings.
This has been covered 100 million times already. What compelled you to make a new thread? I doubt you're coming back. Nobody ever comes back.
Also...are you talking about upper or lower control arms?
If you're talking about upper....there aren't any aftermarket ones that will work. You need to shop at a dealer.
If you need Lowers.....
Honda OEM bushings and a bushing press can both be had for around $200-300.
And you get to keep the tool for future use.
If you're not into working on things...
Any of the aftermarket options from Rockauto will work. The bushings are total junk...BUT if you don't notice things, then you're fine. The trick is to just not notice things. Its free to do. And look at all you get.
Hardrace is another reasonably priced option...but good luck getting them right now. If you're able to get these...they work pretty damn well.
OEM is best, obviously. But also is most expensive.
Clock the bushings when you install them. Or buy control arms every couple of months. Whichever you feel is cheaper/best.
man everything become expensive now these day.....
A lot of shit is on backorder nowadays too man. I recently did a head gasket on my S2000 and I had a lot of issues getting parts. I was able to get hella backordered stuff a few times...but I had to go thru my contact at Honda.
decided to finally buy the PCI metal compliance bushings, so along with the wheel bearings and an alignment it should drive silky smooth.
threw it in the shop on Wed...but dude was super busy. I quit my job and dont have anywhere to be so I was like keep it and get it done when you can.
I call tomorrow see where he's at with it.
I also got new brake pads waiting for the car when it gets home!
A lot of shit is on backorder nowadays too man. I recently did a head gasket on my S2000 and I had a lot of issues getting parts. I was able to get hella backordered stuff a few times...but I had to go thru my contact at Honda.
This is why I am stocking up on parts, no worry about back order or waiting time for shipping lol. Yet people call me crazy.
Originally Posted by justnspace
yeah, it was super sketchy to drive in the rain.
decided to finally buy the PCI metal compliance bushings, so along with the wheel bearings and an alignment it should drive silky smooth.
threw it in the shop on Wed...but dude was super busy. I quit my job and dont have anywhere to be so I was like keep it and get it done when you can.
I call tomorrow see where he's at with it.
I also got new brake pads waiting for the car when it gets home!
hell yeah, cant wait
I just refresh the front end on the KBP and it drive solid. Motor mounts, trans mounts, LBJ, LCA bushings along with fresh tires.
Got my car back!
wahoo, she drives great!!! with the spherical lower control arm bushings, new OEM wheel bearings and alignment.
I immediately threw on some stoptech sport pads in the front for the brembos and a pair of ceramic autozone special pads in the rear.
she stops great!!! limiting factor is now my tires lol
also, ABS and VSA light is on. Mechanic stated the code was for ABS modulator.
I might bleed the brakes with fresh fluid since I have the new pads on now. noticed rear calipers were pretty rusty, pistons still move back and forth.
gotta look for the ABS Modulator.
Got my car back!
wahoo, she drives great!!! with the spherical lower control arm bushings, new OEM wheel bearings and alignment.
I immediately threw on some stoptech sport pads in the front for the brembos and a pair of ceramic autozone special pads in the rear.
she stops great!!! limiting factor is now my tires lol
also, ABS and VSA light is on. Mechanic stated the code was for ABS modulator.
I might bleed the brakes with fresh fluid since I have the new pads on now. noticed rear calipers were pretty rusty, pistons still move back and forth.
gotta look for the ABS Modulator.
Was the light on before? Maybe has something to do with the wheel sensors? or the orientation of the wheel bearing.
I originally heard grinding on passenger side for about a year. it would also pull to the right. then one day last month the ABS light came on...I thought it was the wheel bearing finally ghosting.
bought OEM wheel bearings.
im gonna bleed the brake fluid with fresh fluid and check for leaks next.
pedal feels not so great, stops the car! but pedal feel doesnt feel great
Last edited by justnspace; 08-09-2021 at 03:35 PM.
I originally heard grinding on passenger side for about a year. it would also pull to the right. then one day last month the ABS light came on...I thought it was the wheel bearing finally ghosting.
bought OEM wheel bearings.
im gonna bleed the brake fluid with fresh fluid and check for leaks next.
pedal feels not so great, stops the car! but pedal feel doesnt feel great
Stoptech SPORTs feel awful before you bed them in.
Squishy...not stopping ass...weak no brake having....
I did do a few 60-20mph stops. Maybe about three in a row.
great thing about having a 6mt is at traffic lights, I'm not holding the brakes preventing pad material transfer to rotor after high speed high temp stops
negative. stops straight. just locks up the front tires. I skid a pretty good amount.
i found rust inside the rear pistons "hole", but I was able to compress both rear L and R pistons with a C-clamp. also both rear pads have even wear.
also, after I changed the pads, the brake reservoir level had risen above "full", so it leads me to believe there are no leaks.
Havent bled with fresh fluid yet.
I know current brake fluid is contaminated, as I havent changed fluid in many many years, like 4 or 5. or maybe even like 6 years.
the last time I changed the fluid was when I put on stainless brake lines, like when I got the car.
Last edited by justnspace; 08-10-2021 at 08:58 PM.
hmmm, that is odd. can't say i've seen that before. i used to be ase certifed tech in brakes, but i've always worked in rust free az. lol.
locking up shouldn't happen with abs. maybe abs bleed with a scan tool once you get the fluid flushed.
I briefly looked this morning, it's on the bottom of the car towards the Master cylinder....couldnt see if it was a line that goes to the VSA modulator. it doesn't go to the master cylinder tho. I'll have to inspect it more closely.
I briefly looked this morning, it's on the bottom of the car towards the Master cylinder....couldnt see if it was a line that goes to the VSA modulator. it doesn't go to the master cylinder tho. I'll have to inspect it more closely.
Its probably just a drip from the overfilled master cylinder. Likely overflowed totally when the pistons were pushed all the way back in.
Be weird for a hardline to just leak. But...yeah, look into it for sure.
My 07 is also stupid sketchy to drive in the rain, but from what I'm told is "normal" especially compared to my 2nd gen. Hopefully an alignment this weekend will somewhat help, and eventually new Conti DWS' too. Maybe I'll think about PCI bushings as well.
Originally Posted by BROlando
Be weird for a hardline to just leak. But...yeah, look into it for sure.
You must have the luxury of not living in the rust-belt.
My old 00 TL, daily driven for ~18yrs thru NJ winters (they love salting the roads here) developed a massive leak in the hardline for the rear brakes right where the plastic clip connector holds it to the body. Talk about salt corrosion.
Now my 07 TL-S has developed a leak in the PS hardline, again, where the plastic connector holds it to the sub-frame. Must be where the salt just sits and can never get fully cleaned/rinsed out, and slowly just eats away. Salt is an unforgiving SOB.
My 07 is also stupid sketchy to drive in the rain, but from what I'm told is "normal" especially compared to my 2nd gen. Hopefully an alignment this weekend will somewhat help, and eventually new Conti DWS' too. Maybe I'll think about PCI bushings as well.
You must have the luxury of not living in the rust-belt.
My old 00 TL, daily driven for ~18yrs thru NJ winters (they love salting the roads here) developed a massive leak in the hardline for the rear brakes right where the plastic clip connector holds it to the body. Talk about salt corrosion.
Now my 07 TL-S has developed a leak in the PS hardline, again, where the plastic connector holds it to the sub-frame. Must be where the salt just sits and can never get fully cleaned/rinsed out, and slowly just eats away. Salt is an unforgiving SOB.
I'm in the Chicago burbs, bruv.
One day, I'll move somewhere out of the rust belt.
the only thing I have noticed as far as right now, the slop has been taken out when I shift gears.
I can't really enjoy the car right now until i figure out the brakes! planning to bleed this morning.
vvery hard to explain, when I used to shift gears I could feel some play, somewhere. now, I have a more solid shifting feel. but of course, I havent taken her around any curves yet.
you could feel it more when i would clutch in, there would be play, like weight shifting forward. now, the play or weight shifting forward is mitigated
Last edited by justnspace; 08-14-2021 at 07:19 AM.
Removed the VSA/ABS Modulator:
I had the correct flare nut wrenches, however, I could not remove one line without totally rounding it off.. gave up on the flare nut wrench and used a vice grip and just went really really slow. I think you can see the beat up flare nut.
Here is the nasty brake fluid from the very first bleed:
Last edited by justnspace; 08-17-2021 at 09:43 AM.
08-04-2021, 05:12 PM
