brady33

Azine doesn't need a new brake thread, but I wanted to contribute something on here that I didn't see in my research for the Brembo brake pad replacement. Granted, I may have missed it among the bazillion brake threads we've already got, but a quick search of the link didn't show it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOyvGpIOCNw

With your very helpful DIYs, this video was a nice "icing on the cake," if you will, to making sure I understood the DIY instructions posted in the threads. I don't know if the caliper itself is exactly the same as the TL-S, it sure as heck is the same installation procedures.

For the brake newbies out there, this was the first time I've ever touched a brake pad. Just like everyone said, it's a very very easy job to do yourself; and I wouldn't say that if I didn't mean it. Watch the video. It's hard to screw up.

I'll also put in my vote for the CMax gold pads by the way. I am not an aggressive driver by any means, so the "feel" seems no different to me than the stock Brembo pads. Biggest difference is that these don't squeak at all! No comment on the dusting yet. I'm sure based off others' feedback that it'll be limited too. Plus, the $60 was much more attractive than what they wanted for the Brembos...sheesh!

Thanks for the help everyone! I hope the video is useful to those contemplating doing their brakes themselves.

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Nice video.

Looks professional.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

I took off my calipers today and this is what I'll add if wanting to change rotors.

I did the same steps as above.
Next, I took off the caliper bolts. which were 19mm.
I then took off the wheel sensor bolts/ retaining brackets from the knuckle. which were 10mm.
I slid off the caliper, and used a hangar to hang the caliper.

This is the hard part.
you have to determine which route you're going to go.
I tried mr.heel toes method. Which can be found Here

But did not work for me. you have to figure out a way to turn the bolt left. I didnt figure it out and got fed up.
So instead, on the passenger side, I used a socket wrench and a 12mm or 1/2 Imperial head. find a bolt that will fit the wrench.
insert it into the empty hole and tighten it until you hear a pop. this pop is telling you that the phillips head screws are ready to be unscrewed.

the drivers side rotors kept giving me problems.
I ended up drilling out the phllips head from the rotor.

VQPower37

nice vid/ will help people with replacing pads on their TL

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

It's not quite as easy as the video indicates. When replacing worn pads with new, the pistons need to be pushed back into the caliper before the new pads will be able to be installed. If the fluid is to be pushed back into the master cylinder, caution must be taken to ensure the MC doesn't overflow, so brake fluid needs to be removed to make roome for the incoming fluid. Another option is to open the bleeders (2 on each caliper) when pushing the pads back into the caliper and with this option, the old fluid can be expelled.

I hate cars

It's good to see that someone has used these pads with the Brembos. This is the first that I'm aware of but I may be wrong.

duffduffxx

No, I just did it too with CMAX Golds. They work great, and almost NO brake dust.

Have to agree with the poster above about the hard part in pushing the pistons back to fit the new pads in. Its not that tough once you figure it out- what I did was take the original pads out, take the shims off, clean everything out, and put the original pads back in to push the pistons back. Fit the new pads in, no problem.

And yes, since this was my first time, I way overfilled the brake fluid resevoir and some leaked out. At first I freaked because I thought I was leaking transmission oil (I have a 6MT), but someone pointed out that it was probably overfilled brakefluid.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

Duralast CMAX FTMFW.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

What happens if fluid did spill a little? Happened when I pushed in my front caliper a little about two weeks ago. Cleaned up what I could (rinsed the parts under the engine with spray detailer as best I could).

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

you wont hurt anything with a little spilled.
The biggest concern is if reservoir is low, if low add more.

gatrhumpy

iTrader: (1)

I know that brake fluid is bad for paint, but is there any paint under the brake fluid reservoir?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

oh, I see your point.

i gots nothing.

OntheJob

I currently have these pads as well, work well, I went with ceramic option to cut down on dusting and fore go some breaking.

jeowen

thanks for the vid- quick question though, did you need to replace your rotors as well? my buddy "informed" me that once I replace the pads I really need to get new rotors as well. Car has 38K, not "aggressive" driver- as in the rotors have not been murdered. When do you guys recommend getting new rotors?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Measure them. if its less than specs replace.
:holdonflippingthroughservicemanual....:


I just replaced my pads and rotors. I just finished up.
I went with slotted rotors and ceramic pads.

Stock pads and rotors. 39,000 miles.
prior to changing, I drove my car hard. my brakes were taking a toll.
Havent test drove, yet. theres a slight drizzle and I'll wait for the weekend to wash the brembos while the wheels are off.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Those specs are for the fronts.


to check the brake disc run out, you'll need a special tool called a dial gauge.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Don't need to replace if no vibration/pulsation noticed when braking. Just rough up the surface and install new pads. Most replace because of the buildup and chatter when braking, but not for wear. Only replace when needed, not at every pad change. Same for cutting, I'd replace before cutting the rotor as there isn't much that can be removed before the rotor falls under the factory minimum spec.

jeowen

^thx guys

brady33

I did not need to replace mine this time. I won't disagree with the factory recommendations or the input from more experienced pros in here. The rotors feel perfectly smooth when braking, and I highly doubt the previous owner ever had them turned/cut. Since I'm running ceramic now, I'll have my dealer keep an eye on rotors to see how they wear.

I hate cars

Agreed. Rotors are replaced way too often around here and for no reason. If there are no issues and the rotors are within spec which they probably are, it's a waste of money to replace.

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

I just had the dealership do the Brembo brake pad replacement (at 36,000 miles). They told me I would need to replace the rotors the next time I need to replace pads. Not buying it....

nfnsquared

FYI, I'm at 101K, second set of pads, and my rotors measure 23.5mm (never turned). You've got many, many miles before you'll need new rotors....

ImBeamer

Just changed my pads last night with the duralast CMAX. Easiest brake job I have done. I got 60K out of the OEM pads.

EATSLEEPRACE

iTrader: (1)

cmax duralast pads, NO GOOD in my opinion..................when you put them to work at high speeds, they fail and start squeaking........

bluenorge

Having a new rotor surface after replacing pads is very important. Either re-urfacing or rotor replacement will be better than using used rotors especially for pad bedding in, pad wear, quieter braking(not with racing pad compounds) and overall better braking performance. Going over with scuff pads/sandpaper or a whizzy wheel will not give the same end product as turning or replacing. You need fresh metal contact with new pads for the best benefit. I just replaced all pads and rotors with 58k. Rears pads were toast, but all rotors were still smooth, but obviously with some miles on them. If I were to go another 58k on these, the stock rotors would defenitely be completely wasted. Better off doing everything at one time and get better braking all the time. I went with Centric rotors and Akebono ProAct ceramic pads. I wanted powerful, quiet, long lasting performance for my DD. I would for sure recommend this combo to anyone.

warren4066

very nice

I hate cars

I've never experienced this and I've had mine smoking before. What do you mean by "put them to work"?

Akebono ceramics are the OEM pad for the TL.

You really don't need to replace or machine rotors unless they're worn or warped. The old pads leave behind a transfer layer but that goes away in a couple days if not quicker. If the new pads are severely different in composition, they will wear the old layer off and lay down a layer of their own. Starting with a fresh surface can reduce the break-in requirement but over a short time you will accomplish the same thing by repeated hard stops. I would never spend the extra money for rotors when I can accomplish the same thing by driving the car and following the break-in procedure.

brady33

Personally I think you need to weigh in how you drive and what kind of demands you'll be putting on your car. I try to drive as safely as possible and do not intentionally do anything one would consider "hard" on brakes. I'm sure the CMax pads will do just fine for me. So far so good!

Steven Bell

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man-I really appreciate it.

TheChamp531

iTrader: (3)

No?

I've done several 100-0 brake stops with ease (Controlled environment of course).

If anything, these performed better than the OEM pads times 10 with a lifetime warranty at an affordable price.

Roger555

iTrader: (3)

Been using these pads for the last 5 months. No squeaking work pretty good, don't bite as hard but then again I thought the OEM were wayy to sensitive anyways. Oh and the best part hardly any dust!

platinum1

Same here. I'm going to install Duralast Cmax for front Brembo. Ceramic pads, $59.99+tax, lifetime change for free (no tax). Can't beat that.

CocheseUGA

Timely thread for me. Noticed some noise this afternoon.

dj5

I put these pads on my TL-S about 6-7 months ago. I just couldn't handle the stock OEM pad dust anymore. I couldn't tell much difference in the stopping power. There is almost no dusting with these pads and no squeaking. I highly recommend them.

I hate cars

You guys shouldn't notice much of a change in stopping power either way. Pads go on a friction coefficient rating system. The stock pads for the 5at and I think the 6mt are "FF" and so are the Duralast pads so they have about the same frictional properties. Throw on some "GG" pads and you will feel the difference. I have "GH" on the front of mine now and there is a difference for sure.

jimmyl

Interesting. Exactly like ATE calipers on Mercedes. Easiest brake pad replacements I've ever done.
Once I finally take delivery of the TL I will have to baseline a bunch of stuff, which will include brake pad assessment. I usually go ceramic because of the zero dusting, but will have to look into what works best for yall on here.
Searching, searching, searching......
BTW, always get that brake fluid rinsed off of everything!! Nothing eats through stuff like brake fluid!!

robocam

I see all kinds of different recommendations about the bedding procedure. Any recommendations? Here's what I've read.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

I thought about going with Hawk's procedure, but I'm wondering about the more extreme ones.

The reason I'm concerned about this is because the last time I replaced my pads and rotors, I didn't follow any bedding procedure, and when I slowed down from high speeds, my brakes shuddered. I thought I had warped rotors until I read about bedding. I just finished installing cmax all around with new rotors up front and turned rotors in the rear. I want to properly set them up so I don't mess them up. No instructions came with the pads.

ClemsonAcura

iTrader: (1)

Just wanted to add my .02 to these installs. This was pretty easy. I think I used more anti squeek compound then needed but based it on the pictures i saw on here. I slathered on both sides of the new shims, the acura ones i removed and cleaned. I agree the hardest part was pushing the pistons back into the unit and trying like hell not to damage them. Upone starting the car the first push of brakes the pedal went way down. on the second brake pump they felt fine.

I then did some bedding in a few 35-40 ->5 quick slow downs, and then a few 50-60-> 5-10 then a cool down. he pedal feels "a little" softer then before with a more gradual brake take up.

I am hoping for significantly less dusting then the brembo pads and lifetime warranty is hard to beat..actually impossible to beat considering I could do this job again in less then an hour including clean up.

ez12a

mmm i'm almost due for a change. When i got my car inspected at just under 52k I had "20%" left..I'm not at 55k. Was planning on waiting for 60k.

I might as well just spring for these now since they're lifetime anyways.

DMZ

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As much as I despise getting this done at a stealership, all Acura and Honda dealers do it the RIGHT way. Seems that only they have the lathe that resurfaces the rotors ON THE CAR. That way, the new surface is perfectly perpendicular to the wheel hub and spindle.
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