Ernestogl

I have a 2007 tl base model. I had an issue where one day the battery light would come on and off throughout the day. Next day and days after that It wouldn’t. Months later happened again, battery light would come on and off and then it didn’t. Today, the same thing happened but I luckily now have an Obd2 scanner and decided to check and see the voltages, and they seem to go all over the place. I read everywhere that it should keep a constant voltage so is this normal? When the battery light would come on, is when the voltage would drop to around 11 volts and go away when it goes to around 13. This happens mostly when the car is idle and sometimes while driving. I can feel when the voltage drops because the rpm’s fluctuate very little. I was able to take a screen capture of the obd2 live reading on my phone and uploaded on yt if you guys want to see. At around minute 5:46 is when I enter the highway and u can see it keeps a semi constant 13V. Today was also the first time that it got a CEL for low voltage (P0562).
could my alternator be going bad? I haven’t checked the grounding. Something a buddy mentioned but I could use some input from the tl community. Thanks
https://youtu.be/DBsR9DHgkak

thoiboi

Yes definitely sounds like a alternator or the internal voltage regulator is on its way out... either that or the pulley for the serpentine belt could be loosening up and not allowing the proper tension on the alternator. Or just an old belt tool. HOw many miles? Have those parts been replaced yet (belt/tensioner pulley). I'd get a remanufactured Denso alternator from RockAuto and call it a day but if the belts and pulleys haven't been done yet, I would do those as well.

mariusz439

Same symptoms one year ago - new alternator was the remedy.
Would check the battery negative cable to be sure. I barely drive the car and have to clean the negative clamp and connection to the body once a year as I get strange electrical issues like headlights shutting down, not turning on or flickering.

Legend2TL

Also may wanna check the brushes, they are available as a Acura/Honda replacement module $21. Fairly easy to replace from the backside of the alternator. All Honda's and Acura's I've worked on with bad alternators were just worn out brushes which get intermittent when they wear done.

https://estore.honda.com/acura/parts...++0610&dl=#003

hjaim

I don't know what another alternator has to do with a current alternator or rather unique alternator. The voltage change ought to be indistinguishable. There is a voltage controller incorporated into the alternator which ought to keep up with the result voltage at around 13.8 V. In the event that the alternator isn't turning rapidly to the point of keeping up with 13.8 V then the voltage could drop to the battery voltage which could be around 12.2 V relying upon the heap. Might it be said that you are suggesting that the inactive RPMs are unpredictable? Assuming the motor is looking great the inactive RPMs ought to be consistent. Which is around 600 RPMs on a normal auto motor. Accepting that the alternator is turning quickly enough the voltage controller ought to keep up with the result voltage at around 13.8 V. In the event that the motor stand-by RPMs are steady and the voltage is fluctuating, you could have a terrible voltage controller a terrible association or a changing DC load.



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