meathead

Does everyone's car tell them to change these filters around 24K?

Ron A

Don't remember hearing from anyone about the mileage on this, but that sounds about right, and I think the MID goes by mileage only on this service.

The manual says if you drive in dusty etc conditions, change at 15,000 miles, so 24,000 for normal servicing seems reasonable.

Spazz

reality is an illusion caused by lack of alcohol


That is so true

KADAW

lol

meathead

yeah, i'm wondering if this is b.s. - I've never had that done in any other car. I paid the over 100 bucks or whatever it cost but then i second guessed it. air filters do not need to be changed that frequently. And I read that in the owners manual too but seriously - are there sensors in the air filters that will really tell the car to change them when they're too dirty? I think the light just goes on at a certain milage which is why i asked the question of how many people it went off for at 24k.

w1n78

i had mine at 27k. it was B2 service for me. cost about $240 for the B2 service

Adobeman

You don't have to do anything and just because you never did one doesn't mean they don't need to be done. In all the cars I have had with cabin filters they are pretty damn filthy after 2yrs or 24Kmi. Yes they are expensive but they do keep the ducts and in some cars (not sure about the TL) the evaporator and heater core clean. That keeps their efficiency up. Not to mention how much cleaner the air is in the car. If they get really clogged then the auto-climate control will not work as well either since flow into the cabin is restricted.

As far as the light ? Yeah probably just mileage based. 12K/year average X2 years is right about where I'd say they get pretty clogged up.

Best compromise ? Learn how to change it yourself and get the filter at a discount . The filters for my past cars we about $30. Labor is usually what will get you.

Brettg

I always change the filter every year or more often if it gets real dirty.
I like airflow and dont like breahing air through a filthy filter...

Of course I change them myself, at a cost of about $15.00....

I never pay anyone to work on my cars or motorcycles, from
a wash and wax to a head gasket/valve job...

Brett

jobes

How about this. Stop the A/C from stinking at I would consider changing the damn thing.

nick04tl

probably whatever your last car was didnt have them. they are new to alot of cars. my wifes corolla is an 03 and it is the first year they put vent filters in. acura has had them for a long time now

JohnDoe2

I'm a bit curious about this...

If you don't change the cabin filter, do you think you should just remove it when it gets dirty enough to impede airflow?

Ron A

You could, but if you are going to take all that stuff apart to remove it, why not just put a new one in?

KJSmitty

Isn't that the truth..

Also, my guess is if removed all together it may actually decrease the efficiency of the cooling system. Most systems with filters are designed to operate most efficiently with the "decreased" airflow from the filters inherent restriction. You remove that "factored in" restriction and the air moves through/over the condenser etc. too fast, decreasing the cooling effect / efficiency etc.

Just a thought but true for most air handling designs/systems.

cheers

JetJock

I replaced my airfilter the first month after I bought my TL but not because it was dirty, I just wanted a better quality filter. The one I'm using now has activated charcoal in the filter and it does a much better job removing noxious fumes from truck and bus exhaust. They're available on the aftermarket and cost around $28.00 + labor. It's much better than the plain paper filter Acura uses.

SodaLuvr

No comment on the In-Cabin Micro.

However, on the air filter, you're trying to achieve a balance between flow and filtration. Yes, your filter will still filter when it has >30K, may even filter better since its so caked with dirt, but you'll be "killing" the amount of flow you get.

Because of that, you may simply be hurting your fuel efficiency, which just isn't worth it.

To ensure that you aren't letting dirt into your engine and to optimize flow, I suggest changing the air filter every 15-20K, or every 2yrs for those low mileage people.

Michael

ITL

Would you mind telling me what brand you used? I'm not aware of any of these...

Thanks

fizzyhawk

I could be wrong, it's happened before (shhh, don't tell anyone), but I cannot imagine how a clogged vent filter could reduce fuel mileage and/or introduce dirt into the motor.

scrb09

Part # for Cabin Air Filter from ATP's Website is HA5

ATP Inc.

and you can buy it from: http://www.rockauto.com/ for $13.78
ATP Part # HA5
Category: Cabin Air Filter
Item Price: $13.78

All of ATP's cabin filters are charcoal activated. Bosch also has one but it is about $25 more then ATP. If you want to know more about difference between Particulate (stock and most aftermakets) and the charcoal activated (atp,bosch) you can go to www.bosch.com and they have explained it.

Basically the only difference is that the charcoal activated filter prevents odors.

Ron A

The problem here is that the thread title "air and pollen filter change @ 24k" really means the dust and pollen filter, not the engine air filter, but some people are reading the title as two separate filters, the engine air filter, and the cabin pollen filter.

We just need to separate these two and make plain which filter is actually being discussed, and put the thread back on topic and only talk about the dust and pollen filter..

SodaLuvr

Air Filter right? Or cabin? Confused now

Reducing flow can reduce your fuel economy.

Michael

ITL

Cool...thanks for the link.

I searched this site and found the part number; however, I cannot verify that it correlates to an 04 TL. I looked under Heating & Air Conditioning, but it didn't return an results for ANYTHING.

HA5 is the part number for an 04TL Cabin filter?

scrb09

Yeap...go to Rockauto and you can put in 04 TL and it will come-up with HA5 for Cabin Filter by ATP...

I know the ATP site is not the best to use...

Ron A

Direct link to the Rock Auto cabin air filter Part #HA5 page. I couldn't find anything in the ATP link.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/cata...&parttype=6832

ITL

badass...thanks, Ron. This is exactly what I was looking for.

Brucer

I went to the ATP website and used the catalog lookup. Seemed pretty easy to me! Put in the year, make, model and came up with the HA-5.

6speedv6

I changed mine at 27K miles. Did it myself, it was pretty easy. The old filter was nasty, almost black.

scrb09

Try it for an 05 wise-guy there is no option to select Acura....although it has the same filter as the 04...

Brucer

I am a wise-guy, the comment had to do with an '04 not an '05.

SouthernBoy

Changing the cabin pollen filter on a late model '04 TL is one pain in the ass. An EXTREMELY poor design.. you have to wonder what the design idiots were smoking when they got to this.

Have fun.

scrb09

Once AGAIN the Cabin Filters for the 04 and 05 models are the SAME, so what I was saying is that if ATP has it listed for 04 they have not updated it for 05...

get it now ?


80292-SDA-A01 ELEMENT, FILTER 04 - 05 AcuraTL 21.46

6speedv6

Mine is an '04 (May) and this is how the filter enclosure looks like.



The filter they listed for the car at AutoZone (Bosch 3600) does not fit the tray.


Bought the right filter the same day from Sunnyside Acura.

scrb09

hey 6speedv6 since you have the pics of the enclosure do you also have the pics of the steps for the DIY ? if so can you please post them.

thanks

6speedv6

I don't have pictures of the step-by-step process but I hope the picture below helps.


1. Open the glove box.
2. Locate part 11 and puch the plastic hook forward. It'l snap out.
3. Locate part 7 (2 of them inside the glove box that don't let it come all the way forward). They are SNAP-connected to the glove-box inner linning. With a small screwdriver, apply some pressure to allow your finger to get between the part and the liner and remove them.
4. Now, the glove box will come down allowing you to unscrew the rear hinges held in place by screw 24 (2 of them).
5. Place the glove box somewhere safe.
6. Locate rubber pin 6. There are 2, one shown in the drawing, the other near the remote trunk opener control button (B-11-10). There is one plastic retainer about 1 inch to the left of the shown pin, and another one to the right of the control button. Push the centers to allow the retainers to be pulled out.

7. Now the fun part. Remove part 10. The whole thing is attached to a metal frame by snap connectors. Connecting points shown below. There might be one or two more on the left side, but since I can't see them in the picture, I did not marked them. All you got to do is carefully pull the whole thing out. It has some tabs at particular places that you need to apply perssure to. The weird part is that it took me at least 30 minutes to do it the first time, and that's just this step. I did not wanted to brake anything. It would take me 1 minute now!!! I foud it easier to start from the bottom. Just pull, not to stongly but firmly, and 2 connectors let go. Do the same with the top. Then, go to where the door meets the frame and just pull the cormer, right where part 11 is housed. That should do it. If you look closely, all connecting apenings are square and have all purpose grease smeared all over. That is for assembling purposes. The metal snap connectors just slide into position.

8. Now, you will see the filter holder. Replace the filter.
9. Put all back together by inverting the steps.

That's all I can do for now. Next time, or sooner if someone nearby needs this done and comes by, I'll take more pics.

Hope this helps.