No. A power flush is done with a pressure machine and can move the debris that has accumulated into the pan and force it into areas that may harm the trans. The drain is just like draining your oil. Drain and refill.

 

In the industry, "flush" is usually used to mean a machine. On forums, "flush" could mean either a machine or a simple drain/refill.

It is best for a person to explain which method they mean. When someone else used the term "flush", it is best to ask them to clarify what they mean when they say "flush". When paying a shop to do the trans fluid, I would really question them intensely (drill them) on what EXACTLY is being done and HOW. Also, specifically ask "do you use a machine?".

Machine = Walk away

Done Right = Do It Yourself

 

Thanks for clarifying!

 

So it would be

Drain 3
Add 3 then cycle
Drain 3
Add 3 then cycle
Drain 3
Add 3

9 quarts used, right? So you only cycle twice? Hence 3x3. Thats how Im understanding it. Ive never done this before. Im approaching 46000 on mine. Im just gonna go with the D4. It shows on redlines website that all the major auto part stores carry it. Im going to check today. Now I just need to figure out how to do this myself.

 

You are correct on the 3x3 procedure overview.

Drain 3
Add 3 then cycle
Drain 3
Add 3 then cycle
Drain 3
Add 3


How To?

The RR Journals: ATF drain and refill 3G Garage #C-012 (click here)
C-026: DIY Changing ATF (with Pics) (click here)

 

Thanks Inaccurate!

So from what im gathering, about 3 quarts will drain before it stops. Its not something that I have to stay there and measure and then bolt it back up to stop draining. Just making sure, sorry for the noob question.

 

You do *not* measure the old fluid coming out.

Follow these steps to make sure you are draining as much as possible.

1. Start the car and let it idle for approx 1 minute.
2. Turn off the engine.
3. Remove trans drain plug and drain the trans fluid.
4. After the majority of the fluid has drained, place a very shallow small pan under the drain plug to allow the car to be lowered.
5. Lower the car completely off of the jack to allow the last bit of fluid to drain out. More fluid drains out when the jack is lowered.
6. Allow fluid to drip out for approx 3 or 5 minutes.
7. Jack up car again to replace drain plug.
8. Tighten drain plug to 33 ft. lbs.
9. Add 3 qts new trans fluid. This will fill the trans perfectly to the top mark on the dip stick.




After you do the first drain&refill, you will have 40% new fluid mixed with 60% old fluid. This is why you will do two more drain&refills. After doing three drain&refill, you will have 79% new fluid mixed with 21% old fluid.

The tranny holds 7.6 qts. With each drain, you are able to drain just 3 qts.

Here is the drain/fill percentage chart

1= 40%
2= 73%
3= 79%
4= 88%
5= 93%
6= 96%
7= 98%
8= 99%
9= 100%

Note - These percentages are for the Base 5AT TL. The Type-S 5AT might differ.

 

Quick question as I'm doing it this weekend, Can I use a ramp as oppose to jacking the front, I know some jack the front only and some both back and front, Will I be able to get most of the drain with ramps? thanks

 

If you use ramps to have the front up, a full 3 qts won't drain out, maybe 2-2 1/2 qts depending on the height.

 

I agree.

I always jack my front-end up with a floor jack. When I lower the car to get the remaining fluid to come out, there is approx two measuring cups that will drain.

So if ramps were used, I would estimate that 2-1/2 quarts would be drained.

If all that you have is ramps, then I would still do the fluid change. Just be careful with adding the fluid. Add maybe 2-1/4 qts. Start the car and drive it down the ramps. Turn off car. Check the fluid level. Slowly add to reach the Full mark.

 

Sorry if you find this a silly question, but isn't there a filter for an AT? Sorry I've only dealt with manuals before my two current vehicles.

 

One item I wanted to mention is that Acura considers a flush as a drain and refill procedure, so if anyone mentions a flush, better to ask if a machine is used, if so, stay away.

No filter that requires normal maintenance, but:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/c-036-transmission-filter-change-how-pics-789433/

 

I just did my ATF change today. I spend $60 labor to do 3x3. Total almost $200 for ATF and labor.But it's worth.I don't really feel any harsh shift I believe but I did feel shift faster. I didn't count the time 0-60 yet but I will if I have a chance.Thanks Inaccurate for introduce this ATF to me .

 

I called Acura Care and the rep said it was totally fine to use a transmission fluid that was not Z1. She let out a little laugh when I asked if it would void the warranty and said it would not.

I think the dealership might say different since they want you to come in for the fluid.

 

I hope there is a dealer like that in here. I called 3 dealers in Houston. All of them said that I can bring my ATF but that ATF has to be Z1. They also say I should not try any aftermarket ATF.

 

That's not surprising. It lets Honda make more money with the fluid and the trans will wear out quicker so they can make more money when rebuild time comes.

I would go so far as to say one drain and fill with Redline racing fluid is better than a 3x3 of Z1.

 

boyhamdzui,

Thanks for the follow-up. Always good to hear about happy endings. I am glad things worked out good for you.

 

It wasn't the dealer that said that it was ok it was Honda USA. The dealer will tell you whatever they want to so you come in to buy fluid or services from them however the warranty coverage is with Honda USA.

 

sddale,

I like your style sir

Welcome to Acurazine Glad to have you aboard !