0408TLBoii

hello everyone i need some help. recently i notice that when hit the brakes i feel some vibration on the steering wheel but not on the pedal. what can this be. im thinking its my rotors. what do you guys think. if its the rotors and pads i would like to put replacements more for like a daily driver. i was checking out raybestos and centric rotors and for pads i wanted something that doesnt throw minimal dust as possible.

tonto340

I bought slotted and dimpled rotors from this site, http://brakeperformance.com/index.php. the black one look good behind my Type S wheels.

ez12a

uneven deposits or warped front rotors will cause steering wheel vibrations.

i've had good luck with AutoZone's Duralast Gold C-Max pads. They dust pretty minimally and would be great for a DD because they have a lifetime warranty including wear and tear and they're only $65. So you pretty much get brake pads for life.

0408TLBoii

i heard about those pads i think my neighbor has them on his 350z. they work pretty good. what about the rotors. i saw a couple on ebay.

Acura_2004

What does everyone think of this combination:
Centric Rotors 120.40046 for $50.67 each at Amazon with the Wagner Thermoquiet QC787 pads for $31.06 at Amazon.

Dsrtne1

iTrader: (1)

I went with the Brakemotive rotors and pads. For front and rear drilled/slotted rotors and pads you can't beat $145 shipped!

Turbocoop

iTrader: (3)

So the Duralast C-Max pads work good for you? I put some on about 2K miles ago, no squeaking and very little brake dust- but at highway speeds 60+ if I hit the brakes anything more than VERY softly they feel really weird like they arent grabbing or something. It also vibrates but not like it would with warped rotors, plus I got them resurfaced so I know they arent warped.

I was gonna return the pads and try some new ones but now Im thinking about getting some new rotors instead...

ez12a

i have the brembo version of the CMAX on OE brembo blank rotors and they seem to be fine after 15k or so miles. I put new rotors and new CMAX pads at the same time.

I would say they have less initial bite than the brembo pads, which is what that feeling might be. but I havent had a situation where I stopped beyond where I had initially planned--even for emergency braking, so they seem ok for DD use.

truonghthe

combination of Centric rotor and Stop Tech pads is the way to go.

Turbocoop

iTrader: (3)

Yeah mine are brembos too. It stops fine, its just not as smooth at high speeds as it is under like 50 or 60mph. Its just pretty annoying, I think Ill get some new rotors when I have some extra $$$

0408TLBoii

i think im going to go to autozone and just buy them there.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

i am in the market for front and rear brake rotors.

what are some of the options compatible to OEM rotors.

many here recommeneded stoptech rotor but there are so many on Amazon and dont know which one to choose from

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...stoptech+rotor

i already found Duralast at autozone. anyone used this before.

Brake Rotor - Rear at AutoZone.com - Best Brake Rotor - Rear Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVS

robocam

I use Duralast rotors and brake pads. I love the lifetime warranty on the pads. Make sure you get the Cmax pads. The cheap pads are junk (they wear out really quickly).

AckTL05

iTrader: (18)

Check out the acurazine brake packages at

www endLessrpm com

They're stop tech and the best of the best, little more money but they should get 40k miles plus out of them which going cost to cost, its more for the money. There are different models so don't be fooled by prices from one company to company.

Two things i nEVER recommend doing the "cheaper" version is brakes and spacers….both are your life and cheap rotors will (and I have seen this happen) crack, rust easily, during an accident will shatter, warp etc…your life depends upon braking..

EagleEye

I now run Centric slotted rotors with Poisy Quiet Pads (Also, centric/stoptech). Good bite and low dust. Make sure you use a whole can of brake cleaner to clean off the grease they use to prevent the rotors from rusting. I see a lot of people leaving that on. Which, makes your brake not bite. Also, proper bed in procedure makes the a world of difference.

I used to run Duralast CMAX Gold with good results. Until, I got a bad batch which had crap metal in it. That left grooves in my rotors. Returned them and got the full refund from AutoZone even though I have exchanged 1 pair previously.

EagleEye

^^^ same thing as Truong.

GKinColo08TL

+1 on C Max pads, stop well, low dust, you can usually find an Autozone 20% off coupon online too...I haven't had to replace rotors so no recommendation there

94eg!

Centric High-Carbon blank rotors (125 prefix) & Centric Stoptech pads (309 prefix). Easilly the best performance for the money.

If you want long life over high performance, use Centric Posi-Quiet "extended wear" pads instead. Better performance than the other posi-quiet pads and have a longer life. They are also easier on the rotors.

WDPanda

I always suggest blank rotors.
Slotted or drilled start rusting around the slotted or drilled areas. They also chew up pads faster.
For street use, you don't need that much cooling from slotted/drilled anyway.
Currently running raybestos black painted rotors from rock auto from the high performance section, with Akebono Street Performance pads. They stop extremely well. One of the best setups I've had.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

i bought and replaced the reman Fenco rear caliper from Advance auto part and it starts to rust on the surface only after two days.

is that something i should concern or it's normal for it to rust since it's made of cast iron.

should i replace with it with oem or can i just paint it? Thanks

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

This is absolutely correct. For this reason, Heeltoe's HTSpec Brake Packages start at Stage 0.

HT-Spec Brake Package: Stage 0 Standard-Plus, 2004-08 Acura TL & TL Type-S UA6 UA7 - HeelToe Automotive

Just new pads and fresh fluid much of the time is all you need to quell your vibrations. New lines are optional and really improve pedal feel.

MrHeeltoe

iTrader: (1)

We are not opposed to or in favor of drilled or slotted rotors...but the rust issue is only relative to the quality of parts you are using, how hot you get them, and your environment.

And the additional wear on pads we don't believe this is true.

Ryan1340

I replaced two of my calipers with ones from advance and mine also started rusting right away. I found a pair of Callahan calipers $103 on amazon that are powder coated. If mine did not have to be replaced that day since they were stuck I would not have went with those.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

my mechanic told me that it's only cosmetic and will not affect the function/performance of the caliper. However, the rust just kinda bothers me and i would have gotten the power stop caliper if mine didn't have to replaced that day.

anyone know the fix for the rusty caliper??

polobunny

It's iron, it'll oxidize. You can clean your calipers and paint them if it bothers you.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

any caliper paints will do the job? any brand/type recommended? Thanks

truonghthe

I used to use high temp paint and top it off with couple coating of clear coat paint.

94eg!

Budget calipers are uncoated and will get cosmetic surface rust after they 1st get wet. It's usually only the premium grade calipers that are coated and stay looking good for years. I found this out the hard way when I went for Centric's semi-loaded 141-series budget caliper on my CRX. Now I have 1 rusty a$$ caliper. The sucky thing is they both look exactly the same when new and depending on the OEM coating (those ones were gray).

Personally I wouldn't bother with anything other than Centric posi-quiet loaded 142-series calipers from now on. From their site "...include a Zinc Dichromate finish, or O.E. colored powder coating depending on the application..." They only cost a little bit more and you can always keep the included posi-quiet pads as backup. They also include the caliper hardware which usually costs $8 to $15. Totally worth it.

CALIPERS - Centric Parts

Go4th

Question about the Duralast pads: For manual transmissions (mine is an '05 TL 6-speed), the only one currently available on the Autozone website is part # DGC1049M, for $59.99. Is this the right part for my car? It is just called "Max," not "Gold CMax" like those for automatics. I could swear I was shopping on the same website a few days ago, and there was a different gold c-max pad for MTs, listed at $64.99. Maybe I'm just losing it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

truonghthe

its called C-Max but you have to make sure its either for 07-08 Type S or 04-06 MT.

MIKe30

IIRC, Centric makes Stop Tech.




Spend the extra money for quality blanks. Drilled and slotted are unnecessary for a street car.

Go4th

Update:

Stopped in local Autozone, and I am indeed not going crazy -- they have pulled the Gold CMax pads for MTs off the shelves. I called around a few other local stores, and no dice. They are discontinued. So, I bought the regular Gold ceramics for $44.99. Supposedly they're a close OEM fit. Anybody have experience with these? It's part # DG1049. Will be putting them on tomorrow.

Freefallin06

You are 100% correct. You need the Max, not the Cmax. I am contemplating running these on my 6MT '06TL as well so please shoot me a PM or post back to this thread after you install and bed them in so we all know how you like them!


Sean

Red89gt

I have the cmax front and rear on my TL and they are perfect for daily driver. I have them on the rear of my wife's mdx as well, low to no dust and quiet and stop great.

ExcelerateRep

I haven't had any experience with Autozone pads, so I can't comment on their quality. Personally I would've stuck with either OEM Pads or a name brand pad like Stoptech or Brembo.

We have great pricing on the Stoptech pads on our website!
Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!! - Homepage

truonghthe

The only difference between gold and cmax is that Cmax came with all the hardware such as new bracket, brake quite grease and it's suppose to last 20% more than the gold.

04brmtl

you get what you pay for as far as rotors and pads. i haven't had the chance to upgrade rotors and pads on my tl (with brembos) yet but on my sti i tried auto zone(advance) rotors cracked them after a few rides, went to DBA rotors and put 20k miles on them and never had any issues, never shook, no cracks, never overheated… that shows that quality rotors go a long way. yes they were pricey but well worth it.

as for pads, choose what the majority of the guys recommend as some dust worse than others.

DMZ

After almost 11 years, I've found Centric High-Carbon blank rotors and Wagner Thermo-Quiet pads ($25 from Rockauto) to be the most cost effective way to go while providing adequate stopping power with hardly any dusting.
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