About to pull the trigger….
About to pull the trigger….
on a 2008 Auto Trans CBP TL Type S with 80,000 miles on it. The interior is immaculate, the exterior has a minor scuff and some scratches (normal wear and tear). Wheels have some curb rash but nothing too major. The car has Nav (I think all Type S do). It does not have the A-spec kit.
Seller was asking 19,000
I offered 16,500
He wouldn't budge, we both walked away. He got back to me this morning showing me KBB values etc and then said he would consider 17,500.
Do I take it at 17,500? Do I try to get him to meet me in the middle at 17,000? Do I keep my Manual Transmission WDP 2008 TL base?
Haven't really been on this board in a few years, but built my WDP from the input here.
All advise is greatly appreciated!
Seller was asking 19,000
I offered 16,500
He wouldn't budge, we both walked away. He got back to me this morning showing me KBB values etc and then said he would consider 17,500.
Do I take it at 17,500? Do I try to get him to meet me in the middle at 17,000? Do I keep my Manual Transmission WDP 2008 TL base?
Haven't really been on this board in a few years, but built my WDP from the input here.
All advise is greatly appreciated!
No it wouldn't but I don't want to lose it. KBB has it at a little over 17 http://www.kbb.com/acura/tl/2008-acu...=private-party
I'm going to offer him $17,100
I'm going to offer him $17,100
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Yeah since your current TL is manual, be 100% sure you are ok with going to auto. If you are then I say go for it. It's been said that the 04-06 base 6mt TL is actually quicker than an auto Type S. If acceleration doesn't matter to you then who cares, but something to keep in mind if your expectations are that the Type S is going to be much quicker.
If this Type S is low owner and no accident then I think right at or slightly above 17k would be reasonable. It has some cosmetic blemishes as you mentioned so I wouldn't necessarily go too high above kbb value. If it was immaculate, no accidents, and one or two owners then sure.
Entice him with it being a quick and easy transaction at $17.1 and it's a done deal. Say you can have the check or cash in hand quickly and that the car would be going to a good home. I have experience in this sorta thing lol
If this Type S is low owner and no accident then I think right at or slightly above 17k would be reasonable. It has some cosmetic blemishes as you mentioned so I wouldn't necessarily go too high above kbb value. If it was immaculate, no accidents, and one or two owners then sure.
Entice him with it being a quick and easy transaction at $17.1 and it's a done deal. Say you can have the check or cash in hand quickly and that the car would be going to a good home. I have experience in this sorta thing lol
Yeah since your current TL is manual, be 100% sure you are ok with going to auto. If you are then I say go for it. It's been said that the 04-06 base 6mt TL is actually quicker than an auto Type S. If acceleration doesn't matter to you then who cares, but something to keep in mind if your expectations are that the Type S is going to be much quicker.
If this Type S is low owner and no accident then I think right at or slightly above 17k would be reasonable. It has some cosmetic blemishes as you mentioned so I wouldn't necessarily go too high above kbb value. If it was immaculate, no accidents, and one or two owners then sure.
Entice him with it being a quick and easy transaction at $17.1 and it's a done deal. Say you can have the check or cash in hand quickly and that the car would be going to a good home. I have experience in this sorta thing lol
If this Type S is low owner and no accident then I think right at or slightly above 17k would be reasonable. It has some cosmetic blemishes as you mentioned so I wouldn't necessarily go too high above kbb value. If it was immaculate, no accidents, and one or two owners then sure.
Entice him with it being a quick and easy transaction at $17.1 and it's a done deal. Say you can have the check or cash in hand quickly and that the car would be going to a good home. I have experience in this sorta thing lol
I offered him the 17,100 about 2 hours ago and let him know he'd have the cash in hand. It's now the waiting game.
Yeah since your current TL is manual, be 100% sure you are ok with going to auto. If you are then I say go for it. It's been said that the 04-06 base 6mt TL is actually quicker than an auto Type S. If acceleration doesn't matter to you then who cares, but something to keep in mind if your expectations are that the Type S is going to be much quicker.
If this Type S is low owner and no accident then I think right at or slightly above 17k would be reasonable. It has some cosmetic blemishes as you mentioned so I wouldn't necessarily go too high above kbb value. If it was immaculate, no accidents, and one or two owners then sure.
Entice him with it being a quick and easy transaction at $17.1 and it's a done deal. Say you can have the check or cash in hand quickly and that the car would be going to a good home. I have experience in this sorta thing lol
If this Type S is low owner and no accident then I think right at or slightly above 17k would be reasonable. It has some cosmetic blemishes as you mentioned so I wouldn't necessarily go too high above kbb value. If it was immaculate, no accidents, and one or two owners then sure.
Entice him with it being a quick and easy transaction at $17.1 and it's a done deal. Say you can have the check or cash in hand quickly and that the car would be going to a good home. I have experience in this sorta thing lol
Thanks JTS .. Yeah I realize my MT is probably a bit quicker, but I'm at a point in my life (kids and all) that I'm looking forward to putting it in drive and going. Having said that if I found a CBP Type S in stick I'd JUMP on it.
I offered him the 17,100 about 2 hours ago and let him know he'd have the cash in hand. It's now the waiting game.
I offered him the 17,100 about 2 hours ago and let him know he'd have the cash in hand. It's now the waiting game.
I think that's high. Kelly Blue book is almost always higher than NADA. (This is why I'd want to use KBB if I was selling, but not when assessing values when I'm buying--remember, you're looking at full retail prices)
Local 2007 Type ASKING price: $15,500 http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4132196710.html
I'd wait it out. He's already come down. $16,500 is the most I'd pay if it is really clean. Hope this opinion is helpful and saves you money!
Local 2007 Type ASKING price: $15,500 http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/4132196710.html
I'd wait it out. He's already come down. $16,500 is the most I'd pay if it is really clean. Hope this opinion is helpful and saves you money!
$17,500 Personally I WOULD JUMP ALL OVER THAT.
If he has proof of maint. and It could be looked at by a mechanic before buying.
Its easy to have a mechanic look it over, and well worth the $$$.
If he has proof of maint. and It could be looked at by a mechanic before buying.
Its easy to have a mechanic look it over, and well worth the $$$.
The car has full Acura service records. It was detailed every 6 months and this shows on Carfax.
I know my WDP MT is probably a bit quicker, but there is no way it handles like this Type S. Let the mods begin!
A Spec kit to be ordered tomorrow.
Next in line
- Tein SS Advanced
- CAI
- Cleared headlights
- rear caliper covers and maybe painted calipers
- Tint (not sure how dark/light)
Thanks all for the input.
Last edited by zoostation; Nov 24, 2013 at 06:51 PM.
Hi Steven - Long day yesterday but the car is now officially mine and in my driveway. The seller and I were an hour and a half apart, so obviously that didn't make things any easier. I actually had to take the train into downtown Boston to meet him for the handoff yesterday afternoon. I took the train in, and he took a train back home. Cool guy… I even took him for a beer before he caught his train 
I left South Station behind the wheel with a huge smile on my face! From there I drove directly to the best window tinting company in metro Boston. Props to Tint King !
By the time I got home it was dark and my son needed help with his homework. I have a vacation day today and I plan to put a list of 'to do's' together and give the car a deeper inspection. Just my luck the rain is crazy today…coming down in buckets.
I did manage to place the order for the Aspec kit from Bruce. I'll need to have the skirts painted as they are no longer available in CBP. After that I am so confused as to next steps???
3 things I did notice on the way home. (1) the stock radio sucks. It's actually worse than my 04 as I am now experiencing the rattling and vibrations I have heard many complain about over the years on this board. I guess a sound system upgrade needs to be added to the list. Not sure if that will cure the rear deck rattles tho. (2) The passenger seat seems to be lose. Moves during cornering ext. Not sure if previous owner had removed it, but I can ask him. (3) The pickup on this car is phenomenal ! Love it man!
I took a couple of pics out my window this morning showing both cars. As soon as I can figure out how to upload them I will get them attached.
I left South Station behind the wheel with a huge smile on my face! From there I drove directly to the best window tinting company in metro Boston. Props to Tint King !
By the time I got home it was dark and my son needed help with his homework. I have a vacation day today and I plan to put a list of 'to do's' together and give the car a deeper inspection. Just my luck the rain is crazy today…coming down in buckets.
I did manage to place the order for the Aspec kit from Bruce. I'll need to have the skirts painted as they are no longer available in CBP. After that I am so confused as to next steps???
3 things I did notice on the way home. (1) the stock radio sucks. It's actually worse than my 04 as I am now experiencing the rattling and vibrations I have heard many complain about over the years on this board. I guess a sound system upgrade needs to be added to the list. Not sure if that will cure the rear deck rattles tho. (2) The passenger seat seems to be lose. Moves during cornering ext. Not sure if previous owner had removed it, but I can ask him. (3) The pickup on this car is phenomenal ! Love it man!
I took a couple of pics out my window this morning showing both cars. As soon as I can figure out how to upload them I will get them attached.
3 things I did notice on the way home. (1) the stock radio sucks. It's actually worse than my 04 as I am now experiencing the rattling and vibrations I have heard many complain about over the years on this board. I guess a sound system upgrade needs to be added to the list. Not sure if that will cure the rear deck rattles tho. (2) The passenger seat seems to be lose. Moves during cornering ext. Not sure if previous owner had removed it, but I can ask him. (3) The pickup on this car is phenomenal ! Love it man! 
As for the stock stereo, its really not that bad, but the rear deck lid rattles bring it down big time. I have found the fix is actually pretty simple and doesnt require taking anything apart. On my last couple Type S's the rattle was cured by jamming something between the rear glass and decklid in the center. So I took a long screw driver and some sort of dark thick material and cut it into a square about 6"x6". I used an old black towel we had so it blended in better. I then folded it into a smaller rectangle and simply jammed it in there so that you cant see it. The rattle is completely gone and even in extremely cold temps as well.
As for the passenger seat being loose I dont have an answer for that. I have had 5 Type S's and the seats in all of them were rock solid with no looseness. I guess first determine where the play is. You can easily check the mounting bolts, but if all those seem to be tight, then the only other place that there can be some play is the power seat mechanisms. Grab the seatback with your hand and shake it back and forth. If the seat mounts move then its a simple fix, if the play is in the seat mechanisms then the fix is going to be much more involved.
Let us know if you have any other questions. Not that you couldnt figure things out on your own, but when I get a car there are always a few things I like to do right off the bat. I typically change the oil regardless of how much life left the MID says. I like to use Mobile 1 synthetic with Acura filter so I like to get whatever the previous owner used out of there. I always put the tire pressures where they need to be because most of the time they are all over the place. I typically like to replace anything thats broken or missing, and last but not least a deep interior and exterior cleaning.
lol, sorry for the rambling, but getting a new car is always exciting so im happy for you.
Get those pics when the weather clears up!!!!
One question on the rattle fix. How thick when you say material, do you just mean the towel itself or additional material (wood or something) wrapped in a towel. If additional material, about how thick?
Thanks!
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you want to use a thin towel or foam...enough to "pad" the rear deck from the window.
i used wadded up duct tape and shoved it in there from the underside kind of like a pad....pulled the trunk liner down to do it. you can certianly go from the top though which may work better. two methods for the obnoxious rear deck rattle. if there are still rattles eminating from the rear deck it's either the sub or the middle seat belt.
i used wadded up duct tape and shoved it in there from the underside kind of like a pad....pulled the trunk liner down to do it. you can certianly go from the top though which may work better. two methods for the obnoxious rear deck rattle. if there are still rattles eminating from the rear deck it's either the sub or the middle seat belt.
^^^ yeah exactly. When you look there isn't much room so your simply using just something rolled up and jam it in there. Keep in mind your doing this from inside the car. So get in the back seat and you simply push something in and jam it between the rear glass and the deck lid itself. I used nothing more than small part of a black towel. If that doesn't fix it 100%, maybe do the same thing in other locations besides the center. After I did this and eliminated the rattles, it almost sounded like an entire different stereo. Goodluck!
you want to use a thin towel or foam...enough to "pad" the rear deck from the window.
i used wadded up duct tape and shoved it in there from the underside kind of like a pad....pulled the trunk liner down to do it. you can certianly go from the top though which may work better. two methods for the obnoxious rear deck rattle. if there are still rattles eminating from the rear deck it's either the sub or the middle seat belt.
i used wadded up duct tape and shoved it in there from the underside kind of like a pad....pulled the trunk liner down to do it. you can certianly go from the top though which may work better. two methods for the obnoxious rear deck rattle. if there are still rattles eminating from the rear deck it's either the sub or the middle seat belt.
I never noticed the rear deck rattle until I installed 2 12 inch subs and it got to the point where I didn't even use the radio at high volumes but a little duct tape shoved between the rear window and vent. It was like night and day. Now all I need to do is seal my trunk so I don't sound like ghetto pos
base tl 6mt puts down I think ~225whp? and type S 5at is about ~230whp? so hp wise they are pretty similar. the 5at in all hondas always have quite a bit of loss of hp from the crank.
The base weighs slightly less than type S, I think its marginal, within 100 lb? If you're skinny, and the other guy is fat, it might even out.
The gear ratio, BIG difference here. 5at has great ratios for daily driving, 6mt has great ratios for racing. From a dig, the ratio wont be as drastic, but from any kind of roll, the 6mt can have marginal advantage, or huge advantage.
The best chance for the 5at on the freeway is a 75mph roll. It'll start from about 4.8k rpm in 3rd, and you can leave it in 3rd all the way to 109mph, where you'll be forced to end the race.
The base weighs slightly less than type S, I think its marginal, within 100 lb? If you're skinny, and the other guy is fat, it might even out.
The gear ratio, BIG difference here. 5at has great ratios for daily driving, 6mt has great ratios for racing. From a dig, the ratio wont be as drastic, but from any kind of roll, the 6mt can have marginal advantage, or huge advantage.
The best chance for the 5at on the freeway is a 75mph roll. It'll start from about 4.8k rpm in 3rd, and you can leave it in 3rd all the way to 109mph, where you'll be forced to end the race.






