3G TL (2004-2008)
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6 speed hard to drive at slow speeds

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Old 11-22-2004, 08:05 PM
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6 speed hard to drive at slow speeds

I've put almost a 1000 miles on my car so far..and I have to say..this car is so hard to drive at slow speeds...maybe I'm just a crappy manual driver, but it seems like I'm slowly doing permanent damage to the car by revving it more than it's needed, and burning too much clutch...going up hills...being stuck in traffic...after every drive i take..i go outside of my car...and try to smell for burning clutch or something...it's an awesome car to drive at 65-100, but for like...0-30, it's really hard..


it seems like I have to constantly look at my rpm guage...or else..i'll go to like..5000 rpm on first gear.....i think i should go to dealership and have them teach me how to drive this car better before I damage it...
Old 11-22-2004, 08:43 PM
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Yes, I think you probably just need some more practice. The TL is actually quite easy to drive at any speed. You shouldn't be holding the clutch for much past about 1000-1500 rpms on launch. And you can bring most gears down to about 1500 rpms without it lugging too much. In most cases, I'll keep it in second gear down to about 1000 without a problem.

If this is your first time driving a standard, you have a long way to go before you'll master it. I've been driving standard for about 15 years and there are still days that I feel like a rookie. Take your time, and don't get discouraged. If you don't feel like you're doing something right, have someone that's been driving standard for a while spend an hour or so with you and show you what you're doing wrong.

The 6mt this car is excellent, so enjoy it.

Good luck!
Old 11-22-2004, 09:00 PM
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To terse;

Did you read my postings on the correct manner in which to operate a manual transmission? If not, I'll can repost.
Old 11-22-2004, 09:06 PM
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Here you go terse. SouthernBoy's reply post #13;

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91881

Also, you can easily drive in 2nd with 5-10 miles speed. I do it daily in some patches. I'd say with practice you'll get it.
Old 11-22-2004, 09:09 PM
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The TL 6mt is very easy to drive at any speed. You just need to get the hang of it if it's your first time driving a standard.
Old 11-22-2004, 10:19 PM
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I like to drive my 04 6MT instead of my mom's 05 5AT.
Old 11-22-2004, 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
To terse;

Did you read my postings on the correct manner in which to operate a manual transmission? If not, I'll can repost.

southernboy, thanks..I've read it all..but i think even if I've read every manual...it'll still be difficult...haha...
Old 11-22-2004, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by terse
...it's an awesome car to drive at 65-100, but for like...0-30, it's really hard..


it seems like I have to constantly look at my rpm guage...or else..i'll go to like..5000 rpm on first gear.....i think i should go to dealership and have them teach me how to drive this car better before I damage it...

read & practice .

I'm doing 25 on 6 gear.


Originally Posted by missmyprelude
Yes, I think you probably just need some more practice. The TL is actually quite easy to drive at any speed. You shouldn't be holding the clutch for much past about 1000-1500 rpms on launch. And you can bring most gears down to about 1500 rpms without it lugging too much. In most cases, I'll keep it in second gear down to about 1000 without a problem.

The 6mt this car is excellent, so enjoy it.

Good luck!






read a forum. repost.
Old 11-22-2004, 10:58 PM
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Stop

You can take a look at your RPMs as you drive in low gears.
I was having some problems with it when I first got my TL.
But this is what I started to do, I drive in 1st gear from 3k RPM and 4RPM,
and move pass 2nd into 3rd until I reach 3k to 4k RPMs.

I can drive in 1 gear up to 15 to 20 MPH & 2 gear to 20 to 25 MPH,
3 gear up 35 MPH
Old 11-22-2004, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by wizlb
You can take a look at your RPMs as you drive in low gears.
I was having some problems with it when I first got my TL.
But this is what I started to do, I drive in 1st gear from 3k RPM and 4RPM,
and move pass 2nd into 3rd until I reach 3k to 4k RPMs.

I can drive in 1 gear up to 15 to 20 MPH & 2 gear to 20 to 25 MPH,
3 gear up 35 MPH


You r forgat IT'S 6MT !!!!!
Old 11-23-2004, 01:13 AM
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Terse, although you can look at the RPM gauge once in a while, try to drive by feeling/hearing the car. In a short time you will know when to shift/when to let up clutch etc.

Try to concentrate on smoothness first, without worrying too much about lot of things at the same time (such as clutch life etc). Once you are able to drive smoothly most of the time, follow SouthernBoy's tips to save clutch and fuel.

Hang in there - it gets better soon! I've been a new manual driver myself (1400 miles so far) and can totally sympathize with you.
Old 11-23-2004, 06:41 AM
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I have been driving manual transmission cars for 35 years (started at 6 on my cousins farm in ND). I really like my TL, but have to admit that it was the most difficult to get used to of any car I have driven. I am embarrassed to say, I stalled the car 3 times on my first test drive. Now that I am used to it, I do not have the problem any more. The few times I have had someone else drive the car for the first time, they have the very same issue.

When I drive in traffic, I only put the car in first gear when I come to a complete stop. Otherwise I leave it in 2nd, which will allow you to coast at idle with out any complaints from the car. Keep practicing, and try not to ride the clutch.
Old 11-23-2004, 09:38 AM
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One thing that has helped me in the last two days was raising up my seat. I am 6/6.1 and I had the seat on the floor but after raising it I am smoother. Winding out a 6800 rpm redline engine over 3k for shifts is no big deal. Remember it's a V6 lugging around a 3400 lb car.
Old 11-23-2004, 11:01 AM
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Yeah, your seat position is very important to your shifting smoothness. I find my best position is when I have the clutch pedal fully depressed, there is still a bend in my left leg.. the knee has not "locked".

Also, one of the really nice things about this car with the manual is that the ECU has software that automatically reduces throttle response at very low speeds to virtually eliminate those times when you might tip into the throttle a little too much and run into the car in from of you.

I have 41 years under my belt of driving manual transmissions in everything from trucks to jeeps to VWs (ugh) to genuine American supercars. Once you get the hang of it, you find the TL has a very nice setup.
Old 11-23-2004, 01:27 PM
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about seat positioning, i find it very hard to find a comfortable seat...I find myself always programming a new seat every time I sit in my car...

anyways, thanks for all your input...i'll keep practicing when I have the time...and tell you when I make it onto the nascar circuit..
Old 11-23-2004, 01:36 PM
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drove a SC and ICed vette the other day...the clutch (a three plate aftermarket clutch) was so smooth you couldn't even feel the clutch engagement through your foot...the only way you could tell was the forward movement of the car!!!

TERSE-
I have driven several manuals before without much problem...The TL is the first manual I have owned myself...I have to say the clutch on this car requires more attention than most vehicles. It took me a little more than most to become fluid when changing gears in this car....probably about 3000-3500 miles. I have not stalled the car in the last few months and don't really even think about the actions anymore. Be patient- it'll come soon
Old 11-23-2004, 02:17 PM
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I think the problem is that first gear is really low, and if you short shift it the motor will lug down a lot. But at 1100 miles, I am getting better. Hopefully I will not be changing the seat too much. Car is a joy to drive from a roll.
Old 11-23-2004, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by hbreiden
..... Keep practicing, and try not to ride the clutch.




Old 11-23-2004, 10:15 PM
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Weird. I actually find the 6MT TL easy to drive. My previous car, a 97 Honda Prelude had a *very* precise clutch (a narrow friction point) that took quite a while to master. And when you missed that engagement point, you knew it. But when you did master it, it was an absolute joy to drive. With the TL, I find that there is much more "slop" so that even when I botch the engagement, it really doesn't feel that bad. I haven't stalled the TL in a year of driving. Even after I "mastered" the Prelude, I would still stall it once every few months or so.
Old 11-24-2004, 01:32 AM
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I think it'll just take time. I had an Acura Integra MT for 13 years and had no problems shifting. But with my 05 6MT, it took me ~1000 miles to get used to shifting to 1st/2nd gear, even reverse was a challenge. With ~2500 miles, it's now natural, I don't even think about shifting.
Old 11-24-2004, 11:58 AM
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Try moving the seat up, I definitely don't lurch the car as much maybe I am too tall to have the seat in the lowest position.
Old 11-24-2004, 02:03 PM
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the damn car has too much horsepower
Old 11-25-2004, 08:58 AM
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You never have too much horsepower. Anyway, horsepower wouldn't be a factor in the initial launch.. it would be torque and the TL is low on low-end torque, which is one of the reasons that the launch is more touchy. Several magazine testers noted this same fact in their road tests of the TL.
Old 11-29-2006, 02:37 PM
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Post Fix for low rpm torque = random engine misfires

This lack of low end torque is noticeable on both AT and Manual. The engine has no guts below 2,000rpm. This is the kind of driveability issue most dealers hate to work on - The good news is I have a cheap fix for it.

PROBLEM:
Engine misfires at low rpm only because of lazy MAP sensor (Air/Fuel mixture and IGN timing computations are off)

QuickTEST:
Put the car in Park/Neutral with no elect. load
Hold the engine RPM between idle and 2,500
The engine randomly shakes regardless of its warm/cold temperature

FIX:
Insert 3 or 4 drops of lubricant into the MAP sensor with a seringe. Simply lubricate your existing one because even if you go out and buy a new $45 sensor it will have the same problem after 5KMi. We have to live with this DENSO MAP sensor design or manufacturing flaw until AHM comes up with a TSB campaign (yeah right...)

The GOOD NEWS:
Once you have the low rpm MF solved the engine is a tiger at any RPM, gas mileage goes up by 1 or 2 Mi/Ga and the engine becomes smooth and more responsive to drive.

Furthermore:
OBDII experts know that misfiring should be detected by the ECU but in our case there is not enough misfiring to trigger a CEL. Just enough for the engine cylinders to get off balanced which kills the torque below 2,000Rpm.
- Misfiring ECU codes are mostly reported if you have a dead spark plug
- In the SPlug department, our engine gets a better spark with the double platinum stock plugs than with the newer fancy Irridium needle pin electrode. Simply less misfirings with stock plugs!

Misfiring background :
- MF is caused by either 2 things a weak spark or improper A/F mixture (lean). With the EPA lean A/F regulations mixtures are harder to ignite.
To get a better spark you can increase the +12V line feeding the coil banks. Acura uses a ridiculously tining wire that adds resistance to the 8Amp surge needed to charge the coils - I made that electrical mod and it gave me better results in the misfiring dept.

There are few other factors at play about the Low Rpm misfires on 3.2L Acuras engines but need more time...
(EVAP tank valve leaks below ECU detection level make for delayed/spongy/moody gas pedal response)
Old 11-29-2006, 06:17 PM
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Anyone tried this yet? Where is the MAP Sensor?
Old 11-29-2006, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CalScubaD
This lack of low end torque is noticeable on both AT and Manual. The engine has no guts below 2,000rpm. This is the kind of driveability issue most dealers hate to work on - The good news is I have a cheap fix for it.

PROBLEM:
Engine misfires at low rpm only because of lazy MAP sensor (Air/Fuel mixture and IGN timing computations are off)

QuickTEST:
Put the car in Park/Neutral with no elect. load
Hold the engine RPM between idle and 2,500
The engine randomly shakes regardless of its warm/cold temperature

FIX:
Insert 3 or 4 drops of lubricant into the MAP sensor with a seringe. Simply lubricate your existing one because even if you go out and buy a new $45 sensor it will have the same problem after 5KMi. We have to live with this DENSO MAP sensor design or manufacturing flaw until AHM comes up with a TSB campaign (yeah right...)

The GOOD NEWS:
Once you have the low rpm MF solved the engine is a tiger at any RPM, gas mileage goes up by 1 or 2 Mi/Ga and the engine becomes smooth and more responsive to drive.

Furthermore:
OBDII experts know that misfiring should be detected by the ECU but in our case there is not enough misfiring to trigger a CEL. Just enough for the engine cylinders to get off balanced which kills the torque below 2,000Rpm.
- Misfiring ECU codes are mostly reported if you have a dead spark plug
- In the SPlug department, our engine gets a better spark with the double platinum stock plugs than with the newer fancy Irridium needle pin electrode. Simply less misfirings with stock plugs!

Misfiring background :
- MF is caused by either 2 things a weak spark or improper A/F mixture (lean). With the EPA lean A/F regulations mixtures are harder to ignite.
To get a better spark you can increase the +12V line feeding the coil banks. Acura uses a ridiculously tining wire that adds resistance to the 8Amp surge needed to charge the coils - I made that electrical mod and it gave me better results in the misfiring dept.

There are few other factors at play about the Low Rpm misfires on 3.2L Acuras engines but need more time...
(EVAP tank valve leaks below ECU detection level make for delayed/spongy/moody gas pedal response)

I think a DIY thread with pictures would be appropriate for this mod. what are you lubricating in the MAP?
Old 11-29-2006, 08:57 PM
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While learning to drive the MT, keep your radio off and tune into the car.

I have a related question to driving the TL slow. Is there any kind of damage that is done by lugging the engine?
Old 11-29-2006, 09:26 PM
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I have been driving manual all my life, never owned an auto, and I really think you just need to get used to the TL.

It is a much easier to drive manual than some...........
Old 11-29-2006, 09:46 PM
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I agree that this car is easier to drive than some. My first car was a '78 Honda Accord Hatchback that gave me whiplash trying to learn how to drive a stick! (j/k) I have an '06 NBP 6MT TL that totally agrees with it's master! (That would be me!) But, I will admit, that my biggest problem when I first started driving it was not the lower gears. But rather going from 5th to 6th rapidly on the highway!!! I kept jerking it down into 4th!! LMAO!!! But I've been drinking milk since then and I haven't had that prob in a while! I'm at 700+ miles, and waiting to hit 1K so I can have some serious fun! I feel my car loosening up more and more!! Soon I'll be walking down G35s and crushing 350s and, and...ok, I'm back...where's my medication... Oh yeah, just be patient, and don't get caught up in the RPM hype - learn to listen to your car...it will tell you when to shift, hell, it will yell at you!!
Old 11-30-2006, 01:21 AM
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yeah... it seems like the more adjustable seats are, the harder it is to get comfortable

by the way, it just takes practice! My TL was my first manual car as well, took some getting used to and now it's fine, and southernboy was quite helpful with any questions i had. Good luck!
Old 12-05-2006, 02:11 AM
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Post MAP sens location

The MAP sensor is the black plastic part located on top of the intake manifold right after the throttle body.
(Do at your own risk - I am not responsible for your lack of knowledge or any consequence resulting from your actions based on my information)

- Unplug the connector to the sensor
- Remove the 2 hex screws
- Catch and store the O ring seal before it gets lost
- Insert 3 drops of your favorite long lasting lubricant (NOT WD40 NOR eng oil)
- Shake the sensor in all directions to ensure lubricant spreads inside the sensor cavity
- Re-assemble parts in reverse order from the list

Enjoy the increase of responsiveness and power at all rpm's
Old 12-05-2006, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by CalScubaD
The MAP sensor is the black plastic part located on top of the intake manifold right after the throttle body.
(Do at your own risk - I am not responsible for your lack of knowledge or any consequence resulting from your actions based on my information)

- Unplug the connector to the sensor
- Remove the 2 hex screws
- Catch and store the O ring seal before it gets lost
- Insert 3 drops of your favorite long lasting lubricant (NOT WD40 NOR eng oil)
- Shake the sensor in all directions to ensure lubricant spreads inside the sensor cavity
- Re-assemble parts in reverse order from the list

Enjoy the increase of responsiveness and power at all rpm's
Super info, friend. I have a few questions if you don't mind.

In the event that one's car passes the quick test you describe in post #24, would you still suggest doing this?

Secondly, which lubricant would you suggest be used for this?

Lastly, by introducing a lubricant, does this now open the door to attracting dust and other debris, and is it something you would need to do on a periodic basis?
Old 12-05-2006, 08:01 AM
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One of the most neglected areas when people really learn how to drive a car is driving position. If you attend a driving school, as I have, the FIRST area they cover is position.
First, move your seat forward until your clutch leg is 90% extended, but the knee should not be locked.
Next, incline your seatback until your wrists overlap the steering wheel at the 10 and 2 o'clock position.
A "laid back" position will result in a loss of control when needed, and possible submarining under the lapbelt if in a frontal collision. Looks cool, that's all.
With the many adjustments available on our TL, from both the seat and steering column, you can tailor your most comfortable position after you have established the basics noted. For me, the elevation of the seat itself is best when it just starts adding some support to the thigh.
These are the basics to start with. Once you have the best position for you, then start with mastering the manual. Don't feel guilty about having to look at the tach until you get accustomed. I feel that the throttle-by-wire makes the initial launch a little sensitive, but watching the tach with the radio off practice will help.
Happy Trails!

'05 6MT NBP
K&N Typhoon intake
A-Spec suspension
Michelin Pilot A/S
V1 on the lookout
Old 12-05-2006, 10:44 AM
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Out of all the manual cars Ive driven, the TL probably has the least clutch feel of any of them. Probably just a lot more dampening going on. That can make it a little difficult to get a smooth engagement until you learn where the friction point is. Dont worry about it too much. Likely you'll have it down in a couple of weeks. Ive been driving manuals all my life and it still took a little while to get smooth on the TL.

FWIW S paw 1 is is totaly right about driving position. Most people I know have terrible driving positions. The are operating the pedals with their toes, and cant really only reach the bottom half of the wheel without coming off the seat back.
Old 12-05-2006, 11:27 AM
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I still stall once in a blue moon, but thats only because I get lazy foot after I worked for 10 hours. It was a hard car to drive at first but no doubt that anyone can get used to driving it.
Old 12-07-2006, 02:37 AM
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Originally Posted by hbreiden
I have been driving manual transmission cars for 35 years (started at 6 on my cousins farm in ND). I really like my TL, but have to admit that it was the most difficult to get used to of any car I have driven. I am embarrassed to say, I stalled the car 3 times on my first test drive. Now that I am used to it, I do not have the problem any more. The few times I have had someone else drive the car for the first time, they have the very same issue. When I drive in traffic, I only put the car in first gear when I come to a complete stop. Otherwise I leave it in 2nd, which will allow you to coast at idle with out any complaints from the car. Keep practicing, and try not to ride the clutch.
I don't have 35 years under my belt, but after 16 years of driving nothing but sticks, I have the same experiences with the TL. It took me roughly 2K miles to actually get it consistently smooth out of 1st. 1st has usually been the only trouble maker but I have noticed you can jerk in other gear transitions if letting off too fast. Any other car I have driven in the past it usually takes me about 2 minutes. I even rented a Ferrari one time in Hawaii for a half-day and had no problem shifting it right away. Ferrari's and Lambo's have a notorious reputation for having a very heavy and difficult clutch/shifter. I didn't find this to be the case when driving the Ferrari and even if it is heavier, I find this is easier since you have more feedback.

With the TL, I found that the clutch doesn't let off until a very high location (later on) in overall clutch pedal movement. This is kind of a "soft" clutch with little feedback so you have to give your leg muscles a chance to get trained compared to other manuals I have driven. The tensing of your muscles need to account for the extreme softness. Not only is it soft and lets off later in the movement, it also release quickly, so you get jerking unless you are extremely careful about letting off extra-super slow.

Regardless, the manual in this car is the smoothest and most precise transmission I have ever driven. I let my sister and brother-and-law (both manual trans drivers for years) drive and they had the same impression about its smoothness and the way 1st is finicky. BTW, I drove two TLs from different dealers and the original car that I drove (but didn't buy because of color/configuration), I don't remember having any issues at all... It makes me wonder if this is something that the dealer can adjust..

Originally Posted by CalScubaD
Fix for low rpm torque = random engine misfires
Good post, I need to read it closer when I have more time...
Old 12-07-2006, 08:24 AM
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my 2 cents.....any car in stick is a bitch to drive at low speeds... constantly gotta be on the clutch... the fun part is making the bitch moooove!
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Quick Reply: 6 speed hard to drive at slow speeds



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