5w20 for better performance?

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Old 08-22-2012 | 09:51 PM
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5w20 for better performance?

Is it possible for 5w20 weight to give better performance or throttle response compared to 5w30? I noticed when I had the dealership put in 5w30 (Mobil 1) that it didn't have the same pick-up and response as before. I am not sure if this is just some type of placebo effect or the added weight. Thoughts?
Old 08-22-2012 | 09:55 PM
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dealer put 5w-30 in your engine? Acura suggests 5w20.. it's even written on the crankcase cap
Old 08-22-2012 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mig0s
dealer put 5w-30 in your engine? Acura suggests 5w20.. it's even written on the crankcase cap
This.

Though OP says he "had the dealership put in 5w30", ssooo...

IMO, placebo/imagination.
Old 08-22-2012 | 11:24 PM
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All in your head.

5W30 > 5W20 anyways.
Old 08-22-2012 | 11:28 PM
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Well, 5w-30 is thicker at operating temperature compared to 5w-20. Whether that affects performance is up for debate.
Old 08-23-2012 | 12:07 AM
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Unless you can feel a .0000001% performance change or a .0000001% MPG change then it doesn't do much.
Old 08-23-2012 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mig0s
dealer put 5w-30 in your engine? Acura suggests 5w20.. it's even written on the crankcase cap
I've ran m1 0w-40. whats your point!?

Old 08-23-2012 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by justnspace
whats your point!?
Well, since you used an oil less than "5W" Your engine is going to explode. And since you exceeded the "20" it's going to implode as well. Since the two were done at the same time, it will just cease to exist.
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Old 08-23-2012 | 09:34 AM
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^no wonder why my car is on jackstands all the time!



<----needs new driver mod.
Old 08-23-2012 | 10:30 AM
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^ You'll be fine, as TheChamp said you wont be able to feel the difference. I've been using 5w-30 ever since I bought it.
Old 08-23-2012 | 12:35 PM
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5W-30 goes into it all the time, no real benefit in using 5W-20
Old 08-23-2012 | 02:10 PM
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I've been running Motorcraft 5w20 for over 70,000 miles with absolutely no issues what so ever. I would run Motorcraft 5w30 but they don't seem to offer the 5qt jugs in that weight anymore. However, I also change my oil and Purolator Purone filter at 3,000 miles. Heck my MID says my oil life is at 60%, but I'm absolutely anal when it comes to changing my oil.

Some people may say I'm just wasting my money, but I've always changed my oil at 3,000 miles and my old 90 accord is still running strong with 245,000 miles.
Old 08-23-2012 | 04:51 PM
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Yeah, 5w20 is likely to give you more power over 5w30.

However, the effects of this are likely to be <1HP. Good luck trying to notice that.

Lots of people on ecomodder report better efficiency with thinner oils, but of course that effect becomes more noticeable with a more efficient vehicle and driver. When you're getting 60+ MPG, and religiously monitor these things, you might notice a percent or two. It's a safe bet that reduced losses accounts for this increase in efficiency, which should also make for an increase in power that makes it to the wheels.
Old 08-23-2012 | 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by crbnfbr

Some people may say I'm just wasting my money, but I've always changed my oil at 3,000 miles and my old 90 accord is still running strong with 245,000 miles.
I had an old 93 accord with 256K, that I changed oil on every 10K mobil 1 syn and the motor was perfectly fine.
Old 08-23-2012 | 05:41 PM
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Appreciate all the replies guys.

I had the dealer put in 5w30 to see if it would quiet the engine a little since I've been getting some noticable valve tick on idle.

Dealer suggested a valve adjustment, but I may stick with 5w30 for now and just do the 105k service in a few months, even though I am no were near that mileage.

Last edited by vp55; 08-23-2012 at 05:44 PM.
Old 08-23-2012 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruce Banner
I had an old 93 accord with 256K, that I changed oil on every 10K mobil 1 syn and the motor was perfectly fine.
At my Walmart Mobil 1(the real Mobil 1) is $28 plus an extended wear filter that's $12. So my 3 oil changes to your one is only $26 more. Which to me I can live with.
Old 08-23-2012 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mig0s
dealer put 5w-30 in your engine? Acura suggests 5w20.. it's even written on the crankcase cap
The 5w-20 stamp on the fill cap is required to meet CAFE requirements and avoid a "tax". It also has to be printed in the owner's manual. Toyota does an awesome job of getting around this in some of their cars by suggesting 5w-20 for "normal" use and 5w-30 for "extreme" use. When you read what qualifies it for extreme use, it's pretty much everything and applies to everyone.

Originally Posted by TheChamp531
All in your head.

5W30 > 5W20 anyways.
Agreed.... Unless you live in Alaska and regularly drive short trips in -40 degree weather lol.

Originally Posted by losiglow
Well, since you used an oil less than "5W" Your engine is going to explode. And since you exceeded the "20" it's going to implode as well. Since the two were done at the same time, it will just cease to exist.
You joke but I've seen such statements made for real.
Originally Posted by vp55
Appreciate all the replies guys.

I had the dealer put in 5w30 to see if it would quiet the engine a little since I've been getting some noticable valve tick on idle.

Dealer suggested a valve adjustment, but I may stick with 5w30 for now and just do the 105k service in a few months, even though I am no were near that mileage.
If the noise is the engine and not injectors or a pulley, a heavier oil has a chance of quieting the noise. But remember, the oil can be 30x thicker at start up so if the car makes noise when cold or most of the way through the warmup process, the small difference in viscosity at full temp probably won't make a difference. Some oils are better at others at quieting noisy engines, depending on what is making the noise.
Old 08-23-2012 | 11:01 PM
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I wish I would've put Mobil 1 in since I bought the car. Because I can get it for a little over $3qt from the dealership my sister works at, but I've always been told to stick to one type of oil especially the higher the mileage, especially not to switch from dino to synthetic or vice verse.
Old 08-23-2012 | 11:22 PM
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OP, I wouldn't worry. I used to be a crazy "every 3k oil change kind of guy" but I change it now every 5k-7k.

Check out this article from edmunds.com http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop...-your-oil.html
Old 08-23-2012 | 11:33 PM
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That was a good read, but for my own piece of mind I'll continue my 3,000 mile oil change. Heck, even Honda recommends to change the oil at 3,750 miles under "severe" driving conditions, and basically starting your car is considered a "severe" condition.
Old 08-24-2012 | 02:11 AM
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IHC

If the noise is the engine and not injectors or a pulley, a heavier oil has a chance of quieting the noise. But remember, the oil can be 30x thicker at start up so if the car makes noise when cold or most of the way through the warmup process, the small difference in viscosity at full temp probably won't make a difference. Some oils are better at others at quieting noisy engines, depending on what is making the noise.
I believe it's valve ticking and a tech also thought that too. Sounds almost like a diesel from about 5ft away and seem to get a slight rattle/ticking when giving it slight throttle.

What oil do you recommend to keep the engine smooth and quiet, Redline? If so, should I stick with 5w20 or 5w30?
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Old 08-24-2012 | 03:11 AM
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sounds like u can use a valve adjustment
Old 08-24-2012 | 03:41 AM
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I use castrol gtx 10w30 (spring/summer) and
5w30 (fall/winter). 5w20 is too thin, like water. 1hp and .3ish mpg is a small price to pay for longevity.
Old 08-24-2012 | 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by vp55
I believe it's valve ticking and a tech also thought that too. Sounds almost like a diesel from about 5ft away and seem to get a slight rattle/ticking when giving it slight throttle.

What oil do you recommend to keep the engine smooth and quiet, Redline? If so, should I stick with 5w20 or 5w30?
Stick with 5W-30.

Any oil will work. It is all about the filter nowadays.

If you want to run a synthetic, make sure it is a TRUE synthetic. Some are labeled as Synthetic, but, in actuality, it is only a syn-blend. Mobil 1 EP, Amsoil Synthetic, or Redline Synthetic will be fine.
Old 08-24-2012 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by crbnfbr
That was a good read, but for my own piece of mind I'll continue my 3,000 mile oil change. Heck, even Honda recommends to change the oil at 3,750 miles under "severe" driving conditions, and basically starting your car is considered a "severe" condition.
This is why I don't always go by what the dealer says. Starting your car is severe? Then what isn't? Watching it rust?
Old 08-24-2012 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by LockDots
This is why I don't always go by what the dealer says. Starting your car is severe? Then what isn't? Watching it rust?
Obviously I was be facetious, but pretty much everything most people do daily is considered severe eg: driving less than 10 miles one way, extensive idling or sitting in stop-and-go traffic, and driving on dusty, muddy or de-iced roads. Also, it says all Canadians should follow the "severe" maintenance schedule.
Old 08-24-2012 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by crbnfbr
Obviously I was be facetious, but pretty much everything most people do daily is considered severe eg: driving less than 10 miles one way, extensive idling or sitting in stop-and-go traffic, and driving on dusty, muddy or de-iced roads. Also, it says all Canadians should follow the "severe" maintenance schedule.
I know, I was being sarcastic. I always forget to use red text, I'm still getting used to this forum
Old 08-24-2012 | 12:47 PM
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I figured you were being sarcastic, and I should have use the red text in my post too.
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