3.5 Major Repairs
#1
3.5 Major Repairs
Preparing to drop the motor and trans from my 2007 TL Type-S MT. Still on original clutch, and suspension. Other than an oil leak from drain, no major issues but I plan to keep it for another 150,000 miles so I'm getting ahead of maintenance.
This is my current list, going all OEM unless there's a compelling quality/performance reason to use aftermarket.
This is my current list, going all OEM unless there's a compelling quality/performance reason to use aftermarket.
- Clutch - no chatter, still grabs and rips
- T-Belt & Water Pump - changed at 100k, no issues
- Oil Pump and Pan - leaks from drain bolt
- Valve Gasket and Adjustment - slight clicks at cold, no real issues
- Power Steering Pump - whirring noise when wheel cranked
- Rack and Pinion - oil in boot
- Suspension - ??
- What else should I do while she's taken apart?
- OEM clutch no longer available? What is highest quality alternate assuming I am not racing it?
- Suspension upgrades with improved handling and minimal ride quality loss?
#2
I'm kind of mindblown you're dropping both the engine and trans for that list of stuff.... Minus the clutch, you can do everything listed without removing the trans, and leaving the engine in the car.... I believe the rack & pinion needs the subframe dropped though. To each their own I guess...I'm definitely the type of guy that won't replace anything until it's broken or visibly about to break, though hopefully I can still provide some input here.
Assuming you actually do go through with dropping everything, the biggest advantages in addition to what you listed above would include:
- Access to the rear main seal. Can only be replaced when the trans is removed from engine, and it's very easy to do once you have them separated. Should replace even if it's not currently leaking, since you'll have things apart.
- Front and rear motor mounts. These are the hardest to access normally. Obviously inspect the trans mounts as well to determine if you ought to replace them.
- Shift linkage, shift forks. Take advantage of having easy access to these to remedy any loose ends or issues.
- For the timing belt and water pump, the AISIN kit from rockauto has been a tried and true replacement kit, in the event you don't want to spend an arm and a leg on true OEM. Spark plugs are probably good for another 50k but I suppose the NGK laser iridiums are cheap enough where replacing them now will be worth it, just for the ease of access to the plug holes.
- I'd change the thermostat while you have the coolant drained.
- Inspect the half-shaft connecting both axles. I have an 06 so hopefully it's the same/similar on the type S, but when I replaced both of my axles, the half shaft (or whatever the technical name is for the shaft that connects both the right and left axle through the transmission) was a bit corroded from all the salt over 17 years of Ohio winters. I remember thinking "man this would suck to have to replace".
- Rear bank o2 sensors, just because they can be a PITA to reach with the engine in the car.
-I'll try to think of more and come back to this post later
I can't speak to clutch brand or aftermarket suspension stuff, so hopefully someone else can chime in. Good luck!
Assuming you actually do go through with dropping everything, the biggest advantages in addition to what you listed above would include:
- Access to the rear main seal. Can only be replaced when the trans is removed from engine, and it's very easy to do once you have them separated. Should replace even if it's not currently leaking, since you'll have things apart.
- Front and rear motor mounts. These are the hardest to access normally. Obviously inspect the trans mounts as well to determine if you ought to replace them.
- Shift linkage, shift forks. Take advantage of having easy access to these to remedy any loose ends or issues.
- For the timing belt and water pump, the AISIN kit from rockauto has been a tried and true replacement kit, in the event you don't want to spend an arm and a leg on true OEM. Spark plugs are probably good for another 50k but I suppose the NGK laser iridiums are cheap enough where replacing them now will be worth it, just for the ease of access to the plug holes.
- I'd change the thermostat while you have the coolant drained.
- Inspect the half-shaft connecting both axles. I have an 06 so hopefully it's the same/similar on the type S, but when I replaced both of my axles, the half shaft (or whatever the technical name is for the shaft that connects both the right and left axle through the transmission) was a bit corroded from all the salt over 17 years of Ohio winters. I remember thinking "man this would suck to have to replace".
- Rear bank o2 sensors, just because they can be a PITA to reach with the engine in the car.
-I'll try to think of more and come back to this post later
I can't speak to clutch brand or aftermarket suspension stuff, so hopefully someone else can chime in. Good luck!
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MyGuti (03-15-2023)
#3
I'm kind of mindblown you're dropping both the engine and trans for that list of stuff.... Minus the clutch, you can do everything listed without removing the trans, and leaving the engine in the car.... I believe the rack & pinion needs the subframe dropped though. To each their own I guess...I'm definitely the type of guy that won't replace anything until it's broken or visibly about to break, though hopefully I can still provide some input here.
Assuming you actually do go through with dropping everything, the biggest advantages in addition to what you listed above would include:
- Access to the rear main seal. Can only be replaced when the trans is removed from engine, and it's very easy to do once you have them separated. Should replace even if it's not currently leaking, since you'll have things apart.
- Front and rear motor mounts. These are the hardest to access normally. Obviously inspect the trans mounts as well to determine if you ought to replace them.
- Shift linkage, shift forks. Take advantage of having easy access to these to remedy any loose ends or issues.
- For the timing belt and water pump, the AISIN kit from rockauto has been a tried and true replacement kit, in the event you don't want to spend an arm and a leg on true OEM. Spark plugs are probably good for another 50k but I suppose the NGK laser iridiums are cheap enough where replacing them now will be worth it, just for the ease of access to the plug holes.
- I'd change the thermostat while you have the coolant drained.
- Inspect the half-shaft connecting both axles. I have an 06 so hopefully it's the same/similar on the type S, but when I replaced both of my axles, the half shaft (or whatever the technical name is for the shaft that connects both the right and left axle through the transmission) was a bit corroded from all the salt over 17 years of Ohio winters. I remember thinking "man this would suck to have to replace".
- Rear bank o2 sensors, just because they can be a PITA to reach with the engine in the car.
-I'll try to think of more and come back to this post later
I can't speak to clutch brand or aftermarket suspension stuff, so hopefully someone else can chime in. Good luck!
Assuming you actually do go through with dropping everything, the biggest advantages in addition to what you listed above would include:
- Access to the rear main seal. Can only be replaced when the trans is removed from engine, and it's very easy to do once you have them separated. Should replace even if it's not currently leaking, since you'll have things apart.
- Front and rear motor mounts. These are the hardest to access normally. Obviously inspect the trans mounts as well to determine if you ought to replace them.
- Shift linkage, shift forks. Take advantage of having easy access to these to remedy any loose ends or issues.
- For the timing belt and water pump, the AISIN kit from rockauto has been a tried and true replacement kit, in the event you don't want to spend an arm and a leg on true OEM. Spark plugs are probably good for another 50k but I suppose the NGK laser iridiums are cheap enough where replacing them now will be worth it, just for the ease of access to the plug holes.
- I'd change the thermostat while you have the coolant drained.
- Inspect the half-shaft connecting both axles. I have an 06 so hopefully it's the same/similar on the type S, but when I replaced both of my axles, the half shaft (or whatever the technical name is for the shaft that connects both the right and left axle through the transmission) was a bit corroded from all the salt over 17 years of Ohio winters. I remember thinking "man this would suck to have to replace".
- Rear bank o2 sensors, just because they can be a PITA to reach with the engine in the car.
-I'll try to think of more and come back to this post later
I can't speak to clutch brand or aftermarket suspension stuff, so hopefully someone else can chime in. Good luck!
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