Questions: Clutch/Flywheel/Oil pan/Tranny case.
#1
Ryan's loving his ATLP TL
Thread Starter
Questions: Clutch/Flywheel/Oil pan/Tranny case.
So I have a couple issues, some are my fault for over tightening and others just happened.
I am in need of a clutch replacement. I'm leaning towards OEM because well it's what came with the car and I dont trust exactly 3RD party parts. UNLESS otherwise it's a superior product: ATLP,XRL8 Mounts ETC.
I asked the shop what the price for a clutch/flyweel replacement he said: 700-1,000. Doesn't sound too bad. This is where I got confused:
I asked how much it would be to get the clutch "CASE" replaced, now from my knowledge (which isn't the best, especially on cars) isn't the case from which you drain the MT fluid out of the clutch case? He mentioned it's the transmission case & that it'd be A LOT more expensive and is a larger job... If that's the transmission case then why does the AcuraOEM say: "21000-RDE-305: CASE, CLUTCH." I was going to get the case replaced the make the whole situation easier by getting it DONE!
So pretty much:
I want clutch/flywheel replaced. Oil pan replaced. Clutch "case" replaced.
Out of what I have mentioned, how much do you think it would be for an accurate/honest replacement price for this job?
The reason I am replacing both cases is they both stripped at one point. The oil pan had to be re-tapped, that was successful, NOT a single drip. BUT I dont trust it, in terms of longevity. I want to know that one of the times in the future it wont strip again..and I like the fact knowing I can use the OEM bolt again. I have been using a slightly oversized bolt to assist the new tap.
The Transmission case however was MY fault. I, by over tightening, stripped and cracked the case on the drain housing. I had to get that also re-welded on and re-tapped. THAT bolt however has had a VERY SLOW moist leak. I DONT want that to effect the new clutch! (I've checked the top off bolt and it still overflows) I used to do frequent MT fluid changes, I now know not to over tighten. So that wont happen again! BUT! I like doing them every so often, especially on GM Fluid. I currently have OEM to last longer. BUT I want to use GM again.
Sorry to sort of go on and on. I just really wanted to get my thoughts out!
Thanks everyone in advance! Flipping love my TL-S 6MT and I will do whatever to please her and keep her healthy!
I am in need of a clutch replacement. I'm leaning towards OEM because well it's what came with the car and I dont trust exactly 3RD party parts. UNLESS otherwise it's a superior product: ATLP,XRL8 Mounts ETC.
I asked the shop what the price for a clutch/flyweel replacement he said: 700-1,000. Doesn't sound too bad. This is where I got confused:
I asked how much it would be to get the clutch "CASE" replaced, now from my knowledge (which isn't the best, especially on cars) isn't the case from which you drain the MT fluid out of the clutch case? He mentioned it's the transmission case & that it'd be A LOT more expensive and is a larger job... If that's the transmission case then why does the AcuraOEM say: "21000-RDE-305: CASE, CLUTCH." I was going to get the case replaced the make the whole situation easier by getting it DONE!
So pretty much:
I want clutch/flywheel replaced. Oil pan replaced. Clutch "case" replaced.
Out of what I have mentioned, how much do you think it would be for an accurate/honest replacement price for this job?
The reason I am replacing both cases is they both stripped at one point. The oil pan had to be re-tapped, that was successful, NOT a single drip. BUT I dont trust it, in terms of longevity. I want to know that one of the times in the future it wont strip again..and I like the fact knowing I can use the OEM bolt again. I have been using a slightly oversized bolt to assist the new tap.
The Transmission case however was MY fault. I, by over tightening, stripped and cracked the case on the drain housing. I had to get that also re-welded on and re-tapped. THAT bolt however has had a VERY SLOW moist leak. I DONT want that to effect the new clutch! (I've checked the top off bolt and it still overflows) I used to do frequent MT fluid changes, I now know not to over tighten. So that wont happen again! BUT! I like doing them every so often, especially on GM Fluid. I currently have OEM to last longer. BUT I want to use GM again.
Sorry to sort of go on and on. I just really wanted to get my thoughts out!
Thanks everyone in advance! Flipping love my TL-S 6MT and I will do whatever to please her and keep her healthy!
#3
AFAIK replacing the transmission case involves dropping the trans.. lots of labor.
#5
Ryan's loving his ATLP TL
Thread Starter
Here's two previous threads explaining with some pictures what happened. The Tranny bolt isn't held by the picture shown. the picture shown has just my temp JB job before they re-welded it. It was correctly held on and it hasn't cracked etc. BUT! IF you see the pictures you'll understand how I'd want this done WHILE doing a new clutch.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/clutch-case-drain-broke-help-847905/ CLUTCH CASE BOLT.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/oil-drain-hole-stripped-07-tl-s-ideas-862535/ OIL BOLT (No pics)
This sucks that it sounds like it's a GIGANTIC job.. I thought they could do this easy since I THOUGHT the clutch was inside it anyways. :P
I'll upload this weekend new pictures of the drain bolt currently.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/clutch-case-drain-broke-help-847905/ CLUTCH CASE BOLT.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/oil-drain-hole-stripped-07-tl-s-ideas-862535/ OIL BOLT (No pics)
This sucks that it sounds like it's a GIGANTIC job.. I thought they could do this easy since I THOUGHT the clutch was inside it anyways. :P
I'll upload this weekend new pictures of the drain bolt currently.
#6
Racer
iTrader: (3)
Well, the problem is that your MTF isn't in the clutch, it's in the transmission. The clutch is really just sandwiched between the transmission and engine. The stripped drain bolt is in the transmission case.
The clutch job does not require touching the transmission, except to remove it in its entirety. But once it's removed, you could have the shop replace the case. You might save some labor cost since they had to pull the transmission anyway. But they'd still have to tear open the guts of the transmission to put all the gears into the new case.
The clutch job does not require touching the transmission, except to remove it in its entirety. But once it's removed, you could have the shop replace the case. You might save some labor cost since they had to pull the transmission anyway. But they'd still have to tear open the guts of the transmission to put all the gears into the new case.
Last edited by AndrewA; 10-19-2012 at 09:29 AM.
#7
Ryan's loving his ATLP TL
Thread Starter
Well, the problem is that your MTF isn't in the clutch, it's in the transmission. The clutch is really just sandwiched between the transmission and engine. The stripped drain bolt is in the transmission case.
The clutch job does not require touching the transmission, except to remove it in its entirety. But once it's removed, you could have the shop replace the case. You might save some labor cost since they had to pull the transmission anyway. But they'd still have to tear open the guts of the transmission to put all the gears into the new case.
The clutch job does not require touching the transmission, except to remove it in its entirety. But once it's removed, you could have the shop replace the case. You might save some labor cost since they had to pull the transmission anyway. But they'd still have to tear open the guts of the transmission to put all the gears into the new case.
So when doing this job: they have to essentially remove the transmission WITH the case anyways. So it comes completely out? This is very interesting! Thanks again.
Also, with the oil case, what is needed to have that done as well? So if anyone can give me a ROUGH estimate how much this would cost, let me know your thoughts!
Thanks again!
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#8
Racer
If your case is cracked and your going to be removing the trans anyway to do the clutch job... might as well just have the trans rebuilt. Your going to have to half take it apart to put it in a new case anyway. And use a friggin torque wrench or quit working out so much so you wont snap any more bolts!
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