good evening,
I have searched but getting conflicting info. I have a blown head gasket and found a used motor I can swap.
I am fairly mechanical and have dismantled some engines and replaced a few clutches. I have the head off this engine now, Lots of antifreeze in the oil.
My question is can you unbolt the engine from the tranny and pull it out from above leaving the tranny. There is about an inch to 1 1/2 inches to the front(left side of the motor) that would need to clear the engine bay. Has anyone tried to remove it without the tranny.
Thanks for the help.
Randy

 

Never heard of anyone leaving the trans in place. Most definitely easier pulling the complete swap.

 

Thanks, TEH.
crap. ok, so can you pull the whole thing from the top?
I believe I have watched that video, just don't have the right tools to take off the axles.

 

I literally did a swap a few months ago on the TL I recently picked up & I pulled from the top (6mt).

The only special tool you need is a 32mm (pretty sure) socket for the axle nuts. Worth the investment.

 

thank you TEH
OK, you are encouraging me to keep going!!
I am pretty much old school, no lift, jack stands and no impact tools, breaker bars and BFH if needed.
I will watch more videos and get an idea for axle removal. I can attach a few photos as well. Any good link you suggest?
thanks again.

 

Alldatadiy.com is what I've used for years. Think it's like $20 for a 1 year subscription.

It can be done without power tools but obviously more time consuming. You should probably look into purchasing an electric impact wrench. That crank pulley bolt is no joke.

If it makes you feel better, I've multiple swaps over the years with nothing but basic hand tools & on jack stands. Just in the last couple years I've started "working smarter, not harder" & invested in some power tools. I can honestly say it's cut my labour time in half, experience helps as well of course.

 

excellent, Thanks for the info.
I am going to check out that site, $20 is a bargain.
Which impact wrench would you recommend? I have looked at a couple but have no idea cost to quality or what works best? I have borrowed a couple but they seemed under powered.
I am stopping at the salvage yard after work to check out the used motor. I am fairly sure it came from an automatic car, I hope it did. $650 with a 1 year warranty.

 

For the money, you can beat this thing..

Extreme cordless impact

 

Thanks, I will check it out, looks like 20 volt is best.
I was in Sears over the weekend and they are giving away craftsman stuff. It was all on sale and marked down, picked up a nice torque wrench for $40.

 

Tq wrench is a must have.

 

here is the video pulling just the engine and leaving the tranny in


my question is when I pull this out, With it out and doing the TB service on the new motor is it easier? Seems like with the engine in the car you had more leverage to get the crank bolt off? Any ideas on how to get it off with motor out of the car? thanks I'll post some pics as well.

 

I'd loosen the crank bolt before removing the motor, especially if you decide not to pick up an electric impact.

The timing belt job is 100% easier with the motor outside of the car.

 

Hi, thanks for the early response. I will be picking up engine Friday and its a used motor already out of the car so I don't really have that option. I guess the only way to break it free would be with an impact or laying the engine sideways and using some heat. not sure, I may have to wait till I get it in the car.

 

I'm an early riser for work..

Yea laying it on it's side and having someone holding the crank pulley tool while you break the bolt loose is your best bet, unless an impact is available.

 

follow up for my engine swap.
Its been a few weeks and after buying the used engine and getting it home I borrowed a nice engine hoist. The rental ones were useless. You definitely need one you can adjust. After pulling apart all the connectors and leaving the engine harness with the car I pulled the engine only, left the tranny. There is room you just have to be careful and take your time. The video I posted tells you most everything. There was a bolt underneath attached to tranny, you need a long extender to reach from passenger wheel well. I missed and a couple rear of the engine passenger side connectors that were a pita! I ended up unscrewing the oil pressure one I believe. I engine I was replacing it with had the wiring harness so I had to uncouple about 12 more connectors in and around the tranny. Also the 3 large connectors on driver side of the bay. It was a time consuming job and I finished today. Engine started right up. There is lots of anti freeze in the exhaust yet and hope that burns off the next few weeks. When I removed the exhaust under the engine it poured out due to blown head gasket on original engine.. A couple of things to note. When unbolting the tranny and flywheel there are 8 10mm that hold the flywheel to tranny plate. When reinstalling If you don't align the first one correctly the others won't follow. and you can only align them with the engine about 1/4 inch from the tranny so you can turn the tranny plate and line them up. If too close the pressure from the flywheel is too great and you can't turn the tranny plate. That was a hassle. remounting the exhaust is best with the front cat loose. It allows for some play to line up each exhaust port.
Feel free to ask any questions. I am just glad the new (used) engine fired right up and the car is back on the road!

 

Nice work! How many total hours did you have into the swap from pulling it into the garage to firing up the new engine?

 

Thanks, that's a great question, in fact was just discussing with my wife last night.
It took off and on about 3 weeks or a bit less, couple of days I waited on parts. I had to replace the front engine mount and the air intake hose(bought from Rock Auo). Another note, have regular and deep socket metric with extensions. I believe it was 40 hours but there were at least 8 hours where I had to take a few things off then add something I forgot and reinstall. So I would think 30 hours is a fair guess. I'd only worked on small 4 cylinder engines and a few clutch replacements all older mid 80's cars so my experience with Honda product was new. I also just dropped a Porsche 911 engine to replace that clutch but that engine comes out the bottom. With the newer technology the wiring harness is obviously much more advanced. All in all a great experience and no rusty broken studs or any issues like that. Although on exhaust I always spray PB blaster, apply heat then blaster again before I even attempt to remove the nut.

 

My title was bad but i did the swap with tranny inplace

https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...nboard-962513/

 

thanks for your post, wish I saw it before I did my swap. I see you left the exhaust in. My exhaust front pipe came off fairly easy so not too big of a hassle.
Engine and car running great. Got the water pump and TB yesterday and going to do that job this weekend. I am borrowing a 24" breaker bar and probably buy another couple feet of narrow pipe.Hopefully the crank bolt will cooperate!

 

LOL that crank bolt was a biatch. I had to 'temporarily' purchase an electric impact gun from Lowes for the job.

 

Did you use heat during the crank bolt removal?

 

I did not. I sprayed a little bit of pb blaster, which probably did nothing. and spent a good 20 minutes with the gun. It finally gave way and was removed.