2005 TL with 295K miles

just took it over from father in law who didn’t use it much last 8 years .

got this noise going didn’t look too much at it yet but figured I’d post video of noise ..

what we think ?

 

It is desperate need of a valve adjustment, to the point damage may be actively occurring. Otherwise it kinda sounds like lifter knock but I'm pretty sure the J series has mechanical/solid lifters and not hydraulic, so I don't think that's a possible source of the sound. Too light to be rod knock in my opinion.....hopefully others can chime in here with more expertise.

 

I was thinking valve adjustment which I’ve done twice on mdx so probably even easier on this …

 

Totally agree here.

 

it actually only has about 70k miles on the motor but I know these J series motors always seem to need valve adjustment …

it’s my extra vehicle now so I just put it in garage and will dive into the valves …

 

I did get the p0335 code (crank position sensor). I guess it could just be this . I’ve never replaced that not sure how hard it is too

 

70K makes me suspect a full timing belt service may never been done on it. I'm suspecting its the original tensioner failing as it sounds very similar to this. Check it by placing a long screwdriver on the tensioner and putting your ear on the other end. A timing belt job is fairly advanced but theres plenty of guides on youtube.

GOTO 1:40 on the video

 

^^ Good find! ^^

 

I'm going to check that next as maybe that is what is going on.

 

so I finally had some time to take valve covers off and adjust valves. didn't have to adjust much maybe 4 total between the 24. a couple were little tight nothing major though like a few mm, 1-2 were a little loose. I'm not convinced that will do anything. I'm going to get new spark plugs tomorrow and put rest back together see how it sounds but I'm not hopeful at all.

thinking may I get lucky and it is the timing belt tensioner , BUT when this used motor was put in, I'm pretty sure I had my guy do the timing belt too. but I'll check it anyway maybe I'll get lucky.

the front block valve cover was full of caked on motor oil, the rear cover was great and inside engine looked great. the front motor was pretty dark oil on everything so idk. I'll try post some pics of difference.

 

top two pics are front of engine
bottom two are back looks much cleaner

 

For a 300K mile engine unless it's had a rigorous maintenance interval and 91 Octane only, I would expect it too look like this. The front engine valve cover will always be dirtier than the rear as the PCV valve sits on top of it and exhausts the by-pass gas out that cover.

Going back to the video you posted, I still highly suspect its the tensioner failing. Depending on who is doing it, a timing belt job can sometimes just mean the belt itself and *maybe* the water pump being replaced.
Ideally for a car being 2 decades old it should have the pulleys and tensioner done as well. There is an offical OEM (AISIN) aftermarket kit available from Rockauto.

If you take out the front passenger tire and remove the side engine cover you can expose the tensioner end. Take a long screwdriver to the end of it and you'll be able to hear it rattling. Easy way to confirm it.

 

yeah I can take all timing belt stuff off , I’ve never actually replaced it all but I had to do cam shaft on my 2012 mdx and took it all apart . Timing belt was just done so didn’t replace the parts .

on this I’ll check the tensioner . I could replace just that to see if it’s the noise amd if so then I’ll replace entire timing belt water pump pull-ups etc .

yhis was used motor put in 10 years ago that had 60k on it and only another 15k since then so it has only 75k on motor but probably stock timing belt tensioner .

 

Back together now , adjusted valves (not many), put new plugs in since it was easy accesss . Cleaned manifold amd throttle body too.

will start it today and see. If still have noise which I’m expecting I will then I’ll check tensioner for timing belt .

 

Started it up and noise still there it does seem to be on timing belt side I do feel like maybe it is the tensioner . I’m going to put stethoscope by that cover and see if it sound like it coming g from there .

m I can replace timing belt i believe. Ne we took belt off or water pump out but I’ve done all the rest getting to it before .

 

drumm roll………..

stethascope to valve covers some noise not crazy
stethascope to front cam cover … loud!!!
stethascope to back side of tensioner … SUPER LOUD!!!!!!!

your right I’m pretty sure, it was so loud when I did that.

im gonna get full timing belt kit and replace everything the belt water pump tensioner and all else that comes with it .

never taken belt or water pump off one but I’ve done came shaft , adjusted valves , seen video for timing belt so I’ll give it ago …

 

Glad you were able to confirm it. I found valve adjustment to be significantly harder than the timing belt as it entirely by feel.

The hardest part about the timing belt is cracking that crank bolt loose. If you dont have power tools & weighted socket I've heard soaking the bolt in Liquid Wrench for a day may improve your odds.
Also note the water pump bolts have a very low torque spec. It's quite easy snap them off if you over tighten them.

 

yea that crankbolt is crazy tight on there for me, I have an 04 TL with 240k miles and done the timing belt a few days ago, i had to buy a special tool to get it and even then I had alot of trouble getting it loosened. Spent around 20 mins pushing the wrech down and it finnaly went when the wrench looked like it was about to snap. All I used was a bit of wd40 but I dont think it did anything.

 

I got the heavy socket when I did my mdx cam shaft . That heavy socket kicks ass I can take crank bolt off with crappy pancake compressor and crappy Lowes 3/4” air wratchet …

 

Almost done had to get the engine mount and serpentine belt will have done tomorrow and will start and cross fingers I did belt right 🤞🤞🤞

 

Well no more noise from bad tensioner … BUT I’m pretty sore I messed up the belt timing … it sounds a little off . Engine light flashing . Rev it then settles down to crappy idle …

I did move crank two clicks as it looked off (I knew in my gut just put back as it was), shouldn’t have done that .

I think I’ll have to take apart again and line it up again 🙄🙄🙄

 

Ok I moved one tooth on crank to line it up better with both top cams good .

I used just screw driver bit tip in belt and cranked it to jump it over one notch . Worked great saw it on YouTube .

still runs rough but I think it’s my #4 coil went bad . Getting new coil then I’m feeling like I’ll be good then 🤞.