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So i have a great opportunity to get a cheap and relatively good condition switchblade key for 40 bucks. I've seen the thread in which the old non milled key is hacked up and one of the spares is glued in ( which does not worry me at all ). Im just wondering if i have to match my FCC ID for me to be able to program the key to my door locks.
So amazingly, i got my fob in today and started work right away. I cut the key, programmed the remote with only running into a small problem. The studs (little black pegs which the key holds on to). I have no idea what size drill bit i have to use for them. My best guess would be a 1/16th of an inch, but i could always be wrong.
I broke them all off when I removed the key that came with the switchblade.
JB-Weld is much better, holds everything in place even without those little studs.
I'm Finally done! thanks to everyone especially to guitarplayer16 and rza49311! Here's some pictures as Inspiration to the next person who may want to do this mod lol
I'm Finally done! thanks to everyone especially to guitarplayer16 and rza49311! Here's some pictures as Inspiration to the next person who may want to do this mod lol
you did all this yourself? i need info on this if it's possible to do it myself with just buying a milled switchblade fob
The DIY I followed completely.
One thing that won't be perfect is the open and close slot of the key as the DIY mentioned.
It'll either hang out of the holder, or it will open too far.
The DIY mentions to make the slot "walls" of JB Weld.
After doing a few conversions, I did some things my own way, simply because the JB Weld "wall" does not hold longer than a couple months, if even that.
Buy any switchblade that has the same FCC ID, off ebay.
Find one preferably with buttons that aren't worn off.
I've been always able to find good condition (like new) switchblades off ebay for around $30.
It's probably one of my favourite mods, makes the car seem new again every time you use the key.
Last edited by guitarplayer16; Jan 12, 2015 at 06:38 PM.
After doing a few conversions, I did some things my own way, simply because the JB Weld "wall" does not hold longer than a couple months, if even that.
Curious about this part, sicne I'll attempt switchblade mod too eventually. What did you do exactly?
To rectify the issue of the key opening too far, as seen here:
Keep the "stop" of the switchblade key.
A small part of the metal blade stops the key from opening too far.
When you remove the blade and put in your own blade, you get rid of that small part.
What I did was remove the blade but I cut the portion of the "stop" and kept it there.
Fool proof way and will never over-shoot.
You can see the metal blade portion that stops the key from overshooting in this picture: look on the right side, between the two circle markings.
You can see the difference between the two blades, and how the "original" blade has the "stop" portion. Look between the two "drill holes" on the left.
You can clearly see in this picture (between the two studs) how his new blade is now missing the big chunk of metal that stops the over-shooting.
In this picture he tries to rebuild that "stop" out of JB-Weld.
After remaking that wall of JB-Weld 3 times, I finally came up the method to cut the portion off the original blade with the stopper and place it in.
So you just used JB weld to stick the little metal bump that you cut from the original blade in the "blade plastic case"? Seems flimsy, but maybe I'm missing something. :S
How is metal fit into a super tight plastic molding, held together with JB weld flimsy to you ?
Even if there there was no JB weld, the metal is in it's super tight "channel" and would not move.
Not to mention there's also studs. Also worth mentioning JB Weld and flimsy don't go together
Maybe it's one of those things where you actually have to be working on it to understand.
Last edited by guitarplayer16; Jan 13, 2015 at 05:28 PM.
How is metal fit into a super tight plastic molding, held together with JB weld flimsy to you ?
Even if there there was no JB weld, the metal is in it's super tight "channel" and would not move.
Not to mention there's also studs. Also worth mentioning JB Weld and flimsy don't go together
Maybe it's one of those things where you actually have to be working on it to understand.
Oh kind sir, I understand now. I got it all wrong. I thought you had to keep the other metal bit. It's one of these retard moments and now I obviously realize this bit could never have been in the center of the circle.
Make so much more sense now, I knew there's something I wasn't getting. As said, easier to understand once you've worked on it.
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