spidey07

So coming up on 3,000. Figured I should get an oil change. Any steadfast rules on keeping her well lubed? I used mobil one religeously on my prelude SH.

thanks for any tips! I'm sure there are varying opinions on when to change though.

Skeedatl

The manual says stick to the mantanence minder system.

Ron A

There are literally millions of words in this forum on changing oil, when what kind, who does it, etc. Do a search on "oil".
1. Most recommend waiting for the MID to tell you when to do the first oil change because of the additives in the oil for the break-in period. If you don't want to wait until the very end, at least wait until you have 10-15% oil life remaining before you change oil.
2. Mobil 1 0-20 synthetic is good, as is any name brand 5-20 oil.
3. Change the filter every time.
4. Read the results of the search.

Skeedatl

I thought I read somewhere (can't remember where) that Mobil 1 isn't a "true" synthetic. That it's a blend. Anyone else heard this?

caball88

yup this always comes up that it isn't a true synthetic. but the new formula(1 year ago) suppose to be pure synthetic.

Xpditor

I used Mobil 1 in my 1990 Maxima and there was no measurable indication of wear after 100,000 miles (without taking it apart to mic the bearing clearances).

I will switch to Mobil 1 when the MID tells me it's time to change the high detergent break-in oil. 0-20 is what seems best.

Thicker oil is not better. I learned that in motorcycles. Thicker oil makes the engine run hotter. The manual calls for 5W-20 but we have no "W" in Florida.

inky

I used amsoil 0w30 at 3500 miles and will leave it in for at least 10,000 miles.

catsailr

My TL has 1,600 miles and says 80% of the oil life remaining. The 'Change Engine Oil' light on my 04 Trailblazer just came on last week at 9,800 miles.

Bear2Day

Redline 5W-20,
Mobile-1 oil filter (M1-105) Oversize.
Every 7500 Miles.
How much did you pay for that car?

Z Factor

I was at 7000 when my oil life indicator told me to change mine, which is much longer than I normally wait. I suspect that Acura has some theory as to why they recommend you wait that long, so since I'm leasing, I waited. Had I bought this one, I probably would have only waited until 5000 for the first change, and every 3000 or so after that.

As to the type of oil, I use Mobil 1, along with a Mobil 1 filter in my Vette, but just use dino oil in the TL with a standard filter change every time.

caball88

still on the break in oil but will switch to amsoil 5w20 when the MID tells me to. i'm use to changing oil at every 3000 miles but this car seems to be different. i think i will stick to the MID for the oil change and change the filter at every 3000, since it seems like every 6000 or so miles the MID will remind me.

mattlana

I thought the last thread on oil changes would be the last one ever. I hope this will be the last one ever......LOL :tflamer:

vtechbrain

Read The Manual!!!!

EFlecha

Mobil 1 synthetic is factory fill on the GT3 and vette among others.. if its good enough for those engineers its good enough for the TL. Also Mobil 1 is one of the few FULL synthetic motor oils available. I use Mobil 1 with a K/N gold 500psi burst capable oil filter.

ComptechType-S

Do not change the oil until the maintenance minder says so! There are special additives in the oil that help everything seat and seal up correctly. Changing the oil too soon may actually do more damage than good.

ComptechType-S

Damn! That's bigger than i wanted it to be.. Sorry Spidey, I didnt mean to yell so loud

moregrip

what are the additives?

KeithL

I like to get that inital oil out early so dealer did free oil change at 1400 miles, but used 5W-30, even though book says 5W-20. So I went another 100 miles and finally said screw it and put in my Mobil1 0W-20. I plan on going about every 4k (maybe 5K) miles even though I hear the minder will proabbly go about 5k-6k before asking for oil. But so many studies are showing that regular oil can easily go that long so Synthetic should easly last that long or more. I have used Mobil1 0W-30 or 5W-30 on all my previous cars with Mobil1 filters at 3k intervals, and while a bit over kill I don't beleive you can ever over lube the car, it is the car's blood, screw with it or neglect it and you kill the car. A few bucks and a extra change here and there is well worht protecting a $32k car.

KeithL

And why doesn't the dealer know about this? I have chanegd every car I have owned at around the 1k mark to get out the factory stuff and to clean out any garbage form the initial breka in, then I do another change around 3k and then usually every 3k after that. My TL I plan on every 4k or maybe 5k.

EFlecha

mattlana

Since no one reads the manual that was carefully written for us by Acura and Honda engineers, I say change the damn break in oil even before you take delivery. We all know it is propaganda anyway on how long we go for oil changes anyway. I say we know whats best for us!

EFlecha

I say tell the dealer at time of delivery to replace the break in oil with 1 quart lucas and 1 quart of Prolong! you wont need the other 2.5 quarts as the prolong will help condition all seals and also your first oil change wont have to be made until 20,000 miles. :toothless

Ron A

No need to shout. Deaf and dumb people can't hear you.

NYTHAWK

MID showing 10% left and with 4,500 miles, had dealer change oil filter, drain plug washer, and Synthetic Oil.

ComptechType-S

Sooooo true! I only work for Acura and speak with the area reps on a regular basis before I post info on this forum..

moregrip

so what are the additives?

I changed my oil at 587miles to semi-synthetic

I will change it again at 1K to full synthetic

and the tranny and differential won't be far behind, as long as they comply with Acura standards.

BTW, most motor oils additives packages are so robust these days an early oil change should worry no one.

peace

caball88

it's your car change the oil when you want to. i have never heard of damage to a car because of excessive oil changing. you just might not be benefitting anything from it that's all.

roadman

It is well documented that part of an engines break in process requires that minute metal particles in the oil "wear" in an engine to reduce friction. By changing your oil at 587 miles you have taken those particles out of the equation and will now (especially w/semi syn) have an oil in your crankcase that will not do it's job.

Why throw away good oil at 587 miles , then again at 1,000 ? You car will not benefit from this

BlackSunshine

Well, I think we'd believe you if you worked for Honda. After all, the engine is Honda.



j/k... I think a lot of us are just accustomed to earlier oil changes. We care and want the beast within to be lubed correctly. Hmm... that sounded kind of off.

You know what I mean.

BlackSunshine

Like DUH!!! Doesn't everyone know the oil break-in additives for Honda's?

1 part Soy Sauce
2 parts Wasabe
1 part Sake (pronounced Sah-Kee)
1 part ginger
2 parts White Rice


Know your facts dude!

moregrip

right, that stuff in the initial oil is called assembly lube.

Only needed for the first 20-30minutes of an engines life.

rings should be set by 600miles. 587 in my case, no diff.

not to mention all the idling an engine does not moving and accumulating miles.

an hour meter would be a better tool to gauge oil change intervals all things equal.

I change my oil after 600 miles to get the metal out, sorry, you can't convince me extra metal particles floating around in the engine is needed for break in.

NO, NO, whats needed is metal to metal contact (i.e. part to part) with a thin film of oil so the metal surfaces mate.

little pcs of metal in the oil will not enhance this process.

I would not recommend full synth at 600 but I don't think it would matter in the long run. Parts will eventually seat even with syth, it will just take longer.

peace

Ted Johnson

You have to think carefully about some of what is posted here. Let's start with the lots of minute metal particles in the oil to 'help' the car break in... Hmmmm... Your bearings (lots of them in there) run in a film of oil which is several mils thick. Consequently, very small particles (ie small enough not to be captured by the oil filter) will not have any effect since they will be in the liquid phase. If they are big enough to have an effect, they will be filtered out by the oil filter. I can't see any support for that theory.

Oh well...

FWIW, I change my oil first at about 1000 miles. I change every 3000 miles after that. I spent 16 years working in the foreign car industry much of it on the service side (with some responsibility for some Detroit iron at one point). The US reps pointed out 1) that the 7500 mile oil change interval was not something that the factories dreamed up, it was mandated by congress. The factory's own demos (reps cars) had their oil and filters changed every 3000 miles no matter how they were driven. Coincidentally (or not, as the case may be), that was the change interval recommended by the factory if you drive your car in "dusty" conditions. Hmmmm.... We all drive in dusty conditions and, other than the air filter, how much could that affect a modern lubrication system? Was the factory trying to tell us something about how to take care of our car in normal conditions despite the government's mandate?

Just a thought or two from an old man...

<TED>

BlackSunshine

Look deep into my eyes... er, email... much like your own diet, iron is an essential part of your engines diet. Well, maybe aluminum.

j/k... I'm changing mine every 3k. Wudda ya know, I'm at 2500 now. This isn't wine, oil doesn't get better with age.

moregrip

Ted Johnson,

does an oil filter always capture the damaging size metal particles?

Ted Johnson

That's what it is designed to do. Now, in the case of a near catastrophic failure (ie very large pieces coming off), you may find some damage to the oil pump (through which the oil must pass before it gets to the filter) before the filter can filter them out. When you get to that level, though, the end is not far away unless you heed the warnings that are usually clearly visible at that point (bearing knock, and or oil burning etc.) That kind of failure almost never occurs in a new or near new vehicle, however.

Regards,
<TED>

moregrip

ok
Regards as well