DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Alright, gents...what I am looking to do is generate a list of MAINTENANCE and REPAIR items that are beyond the scope of most normal posts on this site...namely, looking in to the 150k and beyond horizon. I'm part of the high-miler club, and I'm planning on making the TL LAST...and I know I'm not alone in this category!

NOTE: This list excludes normal stuff like fluid change outs, which I do annually with AMSOIL fluids. Yes, I know this is overkill. Also excludes items like shocks, filters, and plugs. I also run seafoam every 10k, wheel rotation and fuel injector cleaner every 5k.

OBJECTIVE: To compile a list of items that will need to be proactivley replaced in the TL to keep her running as well at +150k as she was at 50k.

So here's what I'm thinking, and feel free to add!

IMMEDIATE REPAIRS
Heater Cable (Still trying to find the RC of this @#$ air mixing issue we all face)
Windshield (Chipped, Scratched from Industrial Roofing)
Air Intake Tube (Torn, jerry-rigged for now)

+150k REPLACEMENT HORIZON
Motor Mounts
Axles
Thermostat?
200k Service w/ Valve Adjustment

AS NEEDED
Clutch/Flywheel/Tranny Mounts (to be done together)
Starter
Master/Slave Clutch Cylinders

bluetl04

iTrader: (4)

You may also wanna add egr valve and egr ports cleaning...

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

what about bushings? compliance bushing definitely, and the other 2 bushings on the front lower control arm usually go bad too, but wont cause as much of a difference as the compliance bushing will. Then there's front sway bar endlink, sway bar bushings.

Abe_Froman

iTrader: (5)

Bump.

I'm in the same boat myself. I plan on doing a huge maintenance overhaul soon.

quanaman

iTrader: (4)

My buddy is at 195k and is doing;

Full gates tb/wp kit which includes 5 parts
Ngk plugs
Drive belt
Drive belt tensioner
Ps pump
All new suspension (still on original, will probably go with aspec)

The drive belt tensioner and ps pump are both makin whirring noises. The rest is preventative maintenance. Also has a CEL for an oxygen sensor.

Majofo

paperboy42190

iTrader: (7)

has anyone done the lower tranny mount? I've changed my top one that was easy but the lower one looks like a PITA to remove

anx1300c

iTrader: (2)

So I'm assuming you're manual? You're still on the original engine mounts and axles? I'm only at 89k, but I plan on keeping the car another five years. Since I also have a work provided car, I'll probably only be at around 130-140k in five years. I'm doing the Excelerate mounts within the next month or two. Mine aren't shot yet, but I know it's just a matter of time, and I really want to try the poly mounts. I was planning on doing the compliance bushings next winter and possibly axles at that time. I was getting some clicking from the driver's side, but it's gone away for the time being. Then I figure by late summer/fall of next year I'll be needing the timing belt/tensioner/water pump.

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

I'm in the same boat. Mine has been really solid so far. I'm almost at 150K.

Just did the suspension. All new OEM struts/springs. I have a lower ball joint that is starting to click but it is extremely minor and I haven't heard it in a while. I only hear it when I back out of a parking spot and turn the wheel full. That part is sitting in my garage waiting for when I have time to change it.

My compliance bushings are the same today as they were when I purchased the car. So....until they go I will not be replacing them. I have no issues with play or any abnormal vibrations.

This weekend I am doing another 1x3, oil change and filter change.

At 200K I'll do another TB service and change the plugs. It it needs a valve adjustment I'll have that done as well.

At some point the brakes need to be done. I've got about 80K miles on my current pads and still at 40% or so. I'm not kidding. I have the replacement pads at home but it hadn't needed to be replaced. I do have a rotor in the back that is starting to cut badly so I will have to replace the back pads and rotors. Maybe at the end of the summer.

Other than that I will do the transmission switches again the next time I do a 1x3. Sorry I have an auto.

Do you really see an improvement with your fuel injector cleaner? I haven't used one in this car. My feeling is that I consistently get 30 mpg on the highway and their is no issue that points to fuel injectors so I have avoided it. I've never sea foamed either. I just don't see the need.

All in all this has been a very solid car. I have to change the oil 5 to 6 times a year and do a 1x3 every 6 months but other than that it's gas and go.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

At 141k, all AMSOIL, smooth as butter with the exception of a general MT ghost, but I'm still on the original clutch.

Good stuff, my friends - and yes, I DO recommend running a fuel cleaner every 5 - 10k...$7 for peace of mind is $7 I'm willing to spend in lieu of a 6 pack.

DMZ

Yes, but are you also part of the 'Mile-High' club?
.
.

pohljm

Good udea for a thread, but Seafoam on a 10K interval? Thats just a waste of money, but if it makes you feel better then what the hell! I think its all about the bushings and mounts!

RaviNJCLs

iTrader: (4)

So much of it is how you drive. I added 77k miles since I bought mine and the mounts and bushings are just like when I bought the car. I don't beat mine to hell. Half the time it gets to 5th gear and stay there for extended periods of time and miles.

DM - if the fuel cleaner makes you feel better and does no damage then go for it.

Crazy Cuban

Heater cable?
Why would you replace that? Wouldn't the RC of the air mixing be the Temp Sensor?

BTW, anyone know where it is, so I can clean it?

twigglius

iTrader: (6)

I've been wondering about what type of bushings will need replacing at 100k+... I know the front lower control bushings are a problem but does it make sense to change out other bushings as well. such as the rear sway bar bushings?

antlive

I about to do the same thing...over haul..

all front end bushes
Motor mounts
Tensionor Assembly and belt
Catatylic Converter...got the P0402 code yesterday
NGK spark plug replacement
New rotors and Pads next month - if I can make it
1x3 tranny flush end of the month
will get value adjustment when spark plugs get replaced

jisleyjr

Updated your list a little bit

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

You can't clean the cable without fully removing it through the firewall. Just replace it. You'll be AMAZED at the difference in free play between the sheathing and the cable in new vs old.


^^^THIS!!!!!! I'd be amazed if the RSB bushing are not completely shot.

Agreed

Legitka9

iTrader: (1)

Some may also overlook this but power steering fluid might be a good thing to replace. I replaced mine around 240-250k and I noticed a significant difference in steering feel. Next on my list is brake fluid!

YeuEmMaiMai

every 2 years change brake fluid
every 3-5 years change coolant
every 5 years PS fluid
do everything else as indicated by MIDS

as needed
mounts
brakes
hoses
bushings (do both sides at once)
struts (I think it's easier to buy the set pre assembled)
lube any cables as needed

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

Dear God, do it more often than that. It's cheap, fast, and A LOT less expensive than having to replace a part!!!!