The water pump isn't. At least it has no markings. I wouldn't let that stop you. I have 25K miles on the kit so far with no issues. And no, I'm pretty sure this is not the same kit the dealers are selling.

 

Does Acura and Honda have the same parts number? I have a buddy that works for Honda and can get a discount for me.

Thanks

 

So im getting different parts number from different acura dealers.?????


Timing Belt 14400-P8A-A02
Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley 14510-PGE-A01
Timing Belt Idler Pulley 14550-P8A-A01
Water Pump & Gasket 19200-P8A-A02
Power Steering Belt 56992-P8A-A01
A/C / Alternator Belt 38920-P8C-A02
Auto Tensioner 14520-P8E-A01
Thermostat 19301-P8E-A10



14400-RCA-A01 TIMINGBELT-
14520-RCA-A01 AUTOADJUSTER
14510-RCA-A01 TENSIONER
19200-RDV-J01 WATERPUMP
38920-RCA-A03 - SERPBELT

 

The standard for all DIYs - Thank you!

 

If you are searching for your specific year/make/model/trim, then you should have the same parts at every dealer. If this is just the parts counter guy telling you what to buy, then don't trust it.

Best bet is to search via your specific vin number.

Oh and yes.....IF Honda uses the exact same part as Acura, it will have the exact same part number. It's also typically cheaper at Honda (though not always). Keep in mind some Acura parts are not used on a Honda, so you won't always be able to find everything from them.

 

Would changing to a lightweight pulley be a good time to do along with timing belt change?

 

There is debate on whether it's healthy to a motor to get rid of the OEM pulley,

but yes, that's a good time as any since you have the pulley removed anyway for the TB job.

 

It seem to me acura might have their own part number after speaking with parts department from Acura dealer. I know Honda parts are cheap sometimes so can someone list all Honda part # for recommended and optional parts to replace with timing belt job.

Thanks

 

Thanks for the great writeup. Used it yesterday and the pictures were incredibly helpful.

 

If Honda doesn't carry the exact same part number, then there is NO substitute. Buy Acura. Besides, Acura parts are cheaper than Honda parts of the same number at OEMAcuraParts.com.

 

Im having my honda tech guy do this for me and he saying I dont need to change the tensioner and idler pulley to save some money.


14400-RCA-A01 TIMINGBELT
14520-RCA-A01 AUTOADJUSTER
14510-RCA-A01 TENSIONER
19200-RDV-J01 WATERPUMP
38920-RCA-A03 SERPBELT
14550-RCA-A01 Idler Pulley

 

Well, he's technically correct, but I wouldn't trust the tensioner to last 210K miles. If the tensioner goes, so will the belt...It's only $75 max for the part.


And the idler pulley is even cheaper. For 105K miles and 7-10 years, it's very cheap insurance to replace both.

The Gates kit has all of it for under $170 shipped (Rockauto.com). It's a no-brainer to me.

Or you can go with the Aisin kit for $210 shipped.

Serpentine belt is extra...

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,carc...onent_Kit.html

 

Your choice.. I wouldn't play Russian Roulette.. small price to pay in my book.

 

yep, same here my tensioner was kaput when I did mine before even 100k miles.

the question is WHY NOT? it's RIGHT THERE with the belt. If you're doing the water pump already. I wouldnt trust any of the pulleys with 200k miles and a almost 2 decades worth of time.

 

Definitely replace the hydraulic tensioner. They're usually found to be leaking when this service is done after 100K+ miles. An even if it's not, it likely won't be long before it does. The extra $75 is worthwhile insurance here.

The idler pulley and the tensioner bearing usually aren't really necessary until the 2nd timing belt job after 200K.
.
.

 

Amazing write up. It is nice to know this is here when I need it. I can't wait to contribute with something!

 

Thanks for all the info. I guess ill replace everything on this parts list.

14400-RCA-A01 TIMINGBELT
14520-RCA-A01 AUTOADJUSTER
14510-RCA-A01 TENSIONER
19200-RDV-J01 WATERPUMP
38920-RCA-A03 SERPBELT
14550-RCA-A01 Idler Pulley


Is there any other parts you guys can recommend changing out as well? Im going with all acura parts so parts number will help.


Thanks

 

Id change the sparkplugs while i was in there.

 

I already have sparks plugs and k&n filter air filter on order.

 

Ordered my parts from Rock Auto today, came out to $313 shipped for everything. I went with the basic Gates kit and the Bosch pump since it came out cheaper. Thank you to the OP for the hard work in creating the walk through. No way I could justify the $1,300+ all the service centers around here were quoting.

 

Wow i would save this for the mechanic...

 

Just printed this out. Thank maj. Anything else that needs to be purchased off of your parts list? I found everything for right at 350 and want to make sure I have everything ill need. I just went off of your "parts" list. I'm sure you didn't leave anything out but thought I would ask to clear my brain.

 

I think Rock Auto and some part suppliers / vendors even eBay have the bulk of this parts kit for ~$150.

Search Goog: Gates TCKWP329 - click shopping tab

 

The price I had was everything separated from different sites. Ill check that kit out, gracias sir

 

I have a torque wrench 25-250 ft lbs. Do I need another one for the 19 and 8.7 ft lbs. bolts?
Any recommendation? I already tried Autozone, but they don't have one.

 

I think 8.75 is just finger tight and 19 is nice and snug with a 1/4" ratchet....

just remember not to over tighten anything...

 

finger-tight is "Zero" lb-ft of torque. If you think about it, your fingers alone could not possibly generate the torque produced by pulling on a 1 foot bar with almost 9 pounds. To do a minimal torque setting like 8.75, I would just use a small 1/4" ratchet, and snug it a little past finger tight.

 

I found it near impossible to fit a torque wrench down there anyway. 8.7 lb/ft is like wrist tight on a 1/4 drive ratchet or box wrench.

What you need for this job is a set of ratcheting box wrenches. Those valve cover bolts are a pain to put on and remove.

 

Nice job!

 

Maj, on that link you posted, is the tensioner/idle pulley's the external ones? I replaced the acc drive belt and entire tensioner assembly not too long ago so I would need to find a kit that doesn't include it.

 

Excellent write up, really impressive. I'm scared as hell to try this, maybe if I was on a one week vacation lol.

 

I've heard of tl;dr.. but you're too lazy to look at the pics too!

auto tensioner and idle pulley are for timing belt.. different from drivebelt tensioner.

 

I looked at the picture! Ain't nobody got time for lazy!

It looked a lot like the pulleys mounted to the external tensioner assembly. Guess not. For $150, that's a killer deal.

Thanks again for putting this all together, I might try and tackle myself at some point.

 

I used this tutorial about three years ago on my 2004 TL and it saved me a lot of guessing. Ended up selling it soon after and now I have an '08 I'll be using this tutorial on probably in a few years.

Thanks again!

 

Just FYI for people looking for OEM parts. noob people like me who didnt know hydraulic tensioner is the same as auto adjuster tension. lol


price from oemacuraparts.com



BELT, TIMING (197YU20 VE-501) (UNITTA) 14400-RCA-A01 $46.66

Auto adjuster TENSIONER, TIMING BELT AUTO - Hydraulic Tensioner 14520-RCA-A01 $95.81

TENSIONER ADJUSTER, TIMING BELT - Tensioner Roller / Pulley 14510-RCA-A01 $85.14

WATER PUMP (YAMADA) 19200-RDV-J01 $111.76

SERPBELT - BELT, COMPRESSOR (MITSUBOSHI) 38920-RCA-A03 $29.01

IDLER, TIMING BELT (KOYO SEIKO) - Idler Roller / Pulley 14550-RCA-A01 $37.64

Drive Belt Idler Pulley 31190-RCA-A02 $14.75

THERMOSTAT ASSY. (NIPPON THERMOSTAT) 19301-P8E-A10 $27.71

OIL SEAL (41X56X7) (NOK) - Front Crankshaft Seal 91212-R70-A02
$5.57

OIL SEAL (39X53X8) (NOK) - Cam Seals (2) Honda -Front Crankshaft Seal 91213-R70-A02 $4.95

GASKET, HEAD COVER 12341-RCA-A01 $6.08

 

Did mine recently
pics and vids
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13668595199844
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13668595350055
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...13668595478366

didn't start it right away, clicked it a few times first as you can see. you can hear some wierd sounds just after it started, that is the p.s. pump because i had disconnected it so there was some epmty air space in there that needed fluid

the belt was really loose when i took the cam pulley covers off.....

 

I would have freaked out if the engine didn't start after that job. Is that normal??

I'm glad everything worked out. I'll be tackling this job in the next few weeks.

 

Thanks! Is what normal? I you mean the slackness of the belt, I don't think so. Good luck, take your time. I was pretty sure mine was gonna start tho, I turned it so many times to make sure it always landed back on the right markings.....

Make sure you have all the right tools, I have pics of the serpentine belt removal too but I am unable to upload them on flickr right now, my limit is reached for the month, but I will eventually add them with the rest as well as pics of the tools..

As long as the job is done right it will start, if your marks are not lining up start the job over, if you try to start the car with the marks not lining up you may end up needing a new engine so tripple and quadruple check....

 

nah, he prob just wasnt cranking it long enough. It shouldnt have a problem starting up. As stated earlier, just manually turn the crank when you've got everything back together to make sure it lines up every time and there's no slack.

the first time I start mine to bleed air from the cooling system:

 

... on that note, this is an opportune time to repeat the original post: