A-110(a): DIY Guide to replacing 3rd & 4th gear pressure switch for 3G TL (2004-2006)
#522
Thank you very much for all this info!!!
I finally decided to do something by myself. My wife drives TL-S 2007 and I noticed a significant jerk/kick when I go Drive from Reverse and Neutral (pooling back from a garage and then switching going forward). The car has 117,000 miles and I have never replaced these switches.
I called my dealer today and asked him about the costs, he quoted $206+parts, I called another dealer, he quoted $400+parts, the parts department asked $80 per switch (I need 3) and $4 per a washer. So by the time all said and done, I'm looking at anywhere from $470 to $660, that's just outrages. I'm taking a good care of my cars and average $2,200 a year for maintenance and repairs on this TL using 15-20% discounts; now I understand why it's so much. I don't plan to become a mechanic, but I should be able to do some simple things like this, hopefully
DIY on the 1st page was really good, but my car has 3 sensors, and I understand there will be some similarities. I was wandering if someone can point me to a manual or a diagram for 2007 TL-S.
Thank you!
I finally decided to do something by myself. My wife drives TL-S 2007 and I noticed a significant jerk/kick when I go Drive from Reverse and Neutral (pooling back from a garage and then switching going forward). The car has 117,000 miles and I have never replaced these switches.
I called my dealer today and asked him about the costs, he quoted $206+parts, I called another dealer, he quoted $400+parts, the parts department asked $80 per switch (I need 3) and $4 per a washer. So by the time all said and done, I'm looking at anywhere from $470 to $660, that's just outrages. I'm taking a good care of my cars and average $2,200 a year for maintenance and repairs on this TL using 15-20% discounts; now I understand why it's so much. I don't plan to become a mechanic, but I should be able to do some simple things like this, hopefully
DIY on the 1st page was really good, but my car has 3 sensors, and I understand there will be some similarities. I was wandering if someone can point me to a manual or a diagram for 2007 TL-S.
Thank you!
#525
Just following up to my experience, I replaced the pressure switches on my 2004 TL but the 3rd gear stutter remained. I've now done a ATF change to the new DW1 fluid and now everything is working great! Smoother shifts too . I think the old Honda ATF Z1 is really bad and recommend everyone to change to DW1 asap
#526
Just following up to my experience, I replaced the pressure switches on my 2004 TL but the 3rd gear stutter remained. I've now done a ATF change to the new DW1 fluid and now everything is working great! Smoother shifts too . I think the old Honda ATF Z1 is really bad and recommend everyone to change to DW1 asap
#527
Just following up to my experience, I replaced the pressure switches on my 2004 TL but the 3rd gear stutter remained. I've now done a ATF change to the new DW1 fluid and now everything is working great! Smoother shifts too . I think the old Honda ATF Z1 is really bad and recommend everyone to change to DW1 asap
Unrelated question: where is the best place to get a service manual?
#528
Honda - if it was done at the dealer within the last year then they more than likely changed 3 QTS to the DW1 fluid but the rest is probably Z1. They do not change all the fluid at once.
I recommend you do a 3x3 change. Change out 3 QTS three times. I did mine over a couple weeks. So far I have done 6 transmission fluid changes at 3 to 4 QTS each. I'm past 155k on my TL and it shifts great. I bought it with 72k. So 6 changes in 83k miles.
I recommend you do a 3x3 change. Change out 3 QTS three times. I did mine over a couple weeks. So far I have done 6 transmission fluid changes at 3 to 4 QTS each. I'm past 155k on my TL and it shifts great. I bought it with 72k. So 6 changes in 83k miles.
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honda (08-22-2013)
#529
Thank you, I'll do that. Should I get DW1 from a dealer? Do I need to replace any filters along with that?
I know those are silly questions, but I have not done any maintenance on my cars by myself for the last 15 years. I'm just fed up with escalating costs at the dealer and do not have an independent mechanic that I trust.
I know those are silly questions, but I have not done any maintenance on my cars by myself for the last 15 years. I'm just fed up with escalating costs at the dealer and do not have an independent mechanic that I trust.
#530
I get the fluid from the dealer. If you are going to do it your self I would get 4 QTS instead of 3. Depending on the angle of the car you can get more than 3 QTS out.
It is a very easy DIY if you have all the tools.
I have never changed the filter. Just drain and refill.
It is a very easy DIY if you have all the tools.
I have never changed the filter. Just drain and refill.
The following users liked this post:
honda (08-22-2013)
The following users liked this post:
honda (08-22-2013)
#534
I was at the dealer this past week to have my 2 presure switches installed (I bought from Delray) and my fluid changed after having the D light blink sometimes over the past 3 months. I feel I was ripped off, but hey, I paid to have the dealer's quality workmanship and they're responsible if I have issues in the future.
SO, I also bought a filter that I wanted them to install and the shop foreman said they've never changed one, ever. They also wanted to charge me 8 hours of labor to change it - I told them that the 8 hours on the bulletin was for the internal filter that needs the tranny separated from the engine, which is why it's an 8 hour job... not the case for the 3 bolt cover on top of the tranny that you only need to move the air filter to get at. They couldn't find any information on that filter, and if/when it's necessary to change it. The filter I'm referring to is part #25450-RAY-003
SO, I also bought a filter that I wanted them to install and the shop foreman said they've never changed one, ever. They also wanted to charge me 8 hours of labor to change it - I told them that the 8 hours on the bulletin was for the internal filter that needs the tranny separated from the engine, which is why it's an 8 hour job... not the case for the 3 bolt cover on top of the tranny that you only need to move the air filter to get at. They couldn't find any information on that filter, and if/when it's necessary to change it. The filter I'm referring to is part #25450-RAY-003
#536
Well its time to switch them out again. Its been 1 yr and nearly 35k miles later my transmission is becoming more bogged down and rough shifts from 2->3rd and 3->4th.... I hope I haven't damaged the tranny too much as I haven't had the time to swap out the old with new ones.
Plan to do it next weekend.
Plan to do it next weekend.
#537
Just got my TL about a month ago and put about 500 miles on her so far. Ive been reading about this and have all my parts ordered. I plan to do this along with a 3x3 drain with 8 quarts of Redline Racing ATF and 1 quart of Redline's D4 whenever it all comes. Look forward to knocking this out.
#539
I was at the dealer this past week to have my 2 presure switches installed (I bought from Delray) and my fluid changed after having the D light blink sometimes over the past 3 months. I feel I was ripped off, but hey, I paid to have the dealer's quality workmanship and they're responsible if I have issues in the future.
SO, I also bought a filter that I wanted them to install and the shop foreman said they've never changed one, ever. They also wanted to charge me 8 hours of labor to change it - I told them that the 8 hours on the bulletin was for the internal filter that needs the tranny separated from the engine, which is why it's an 8 hour job... not the case for the 3 bolt cover on top of the tranny that you only need to move the air filter to get at. They couldn't find any information on that filter, and if/when it's necessary to change it. The filter I'm referring to is part #25450-RAY-003
SO, I also bought a filter that I wanted them to install and the shop foreman said they've never changed one, ever. They also wanted to charge me 8 hours of labor to change it - I told them that the 8 hours on the bulletin was for the internal filter that needs the tranny separated from the engine, which is why it's an 8 hour job... not the case for the 3 bolt cover on top of the tranny that you only need to move the air filter to get at. They couldn't find any information on that filter, and if/when it's necessary to change it. The filter I'm referring to is part #25450-RAY-003
#540
tackling this tonight on my 2G TL-S. I got the pressure switches from a seller on ebay for $78 shipped for both. Also picked up a new filter and the orings/gaskets for the sensors.
Thought i'd share this video I found - it really clears up any confusion about how to access the switches. Looks super simple - there's no reason even the most novice mechanic couldn't do this in under a half hour.
Thought i'd share this video I found - it really clears up any confusion about how to access the switches. Looks super simple - there's no reason even the most novice mechanic couldn't do this in under a half hour.
#541
I did mine 3yrs and 25k ago with a tranny drain and fill. Did the Honda OEM fluid which was probably a dumb move. Saw an immediate difference and the car felt great for a year or so. Tranny has now been shifting pretty badly this whole year. Definitely slips on 3rd and 4th gear, hard accelerations up hill or highway ramps, delayed shifts out of park. Pretty scary, feels like the tranny is about to crap out sometimes especially if I push it. So I'm real easy on the car. Time to do the switches again. There are a few different opinions here on fluid so I gotta figure out what's best. Sigh I know I'm not the only one who regrets not getting the 6 speed.
#542
Well, I got under and removed the plastic shield only to be surprised to see a mild leak from under the tranny. Blah, was not expecting this and always kept a lookout hoping it wouldn't happen to me. The fluid was not really old still pretty wet and only about 100ml splashed on the shield with a few drops getting by. But it was grimy enough to know it has been there at least a couple months. It never affected the fluid level, I check it every month.
I did a 1x3 with Redline D4 and the transmission sensors. The changes were as expected and just like last time the car is driving like new. So before I complete the other 2x3s I wanted to source the leak. I cleaned it all up so I could maybe see where it will originate from. I don't think it is a line, that would be a faster leak correct? Could it be a gasket? Someone mentioned another sensor somewhere under a cover on the bottom that could have a leaky gasket. Is that a DIY fix or does it require a lot of disassembly? Yea, honestly, anything regarding the tranny past the fluid and these sensors totally intimidates me.
3yrs ago I had a Honda dealer do a 3x3 of OEM fluid. I told them to just use OEM fluid. At the time I wasn't aware of the whole Z1 debacle so I have no idea what fluid they put in. It was Dec. 2010 so probably someone knows if Z1 was phased out.
So how long can I go on a 1x3 Redline D4 with no ill effects? I know that is almost to impossible answer and more a case to case situation, just thought I'd throw it out there. Because if for some reason the tranny now has to be opened up or drained I don't want to throw out $100 of fluid if you know what I mean.
I did a 1x3 with Redline D4 and the transmission sensors. The changes were as expected and just like last time the car is driving like new. So before I complete the other 2x3s I wanted to source the leak. I cleaned it all up so I could maybe see where it will originate from. I don't think it is a line, that would be a faster leak correct? Could it be a gasket? Someone mentioned another sensor somewhere under a cover on the bottom that could have a leaky gasket. Is that a DIY fix or does it require a lot of disassembly? Yea, honestly, anything regarding the tranny past the fluid and these sensors totally intimidates me.
3yrs ago I had a Honda dealer do a 3x3 of OEM fluid. I told them to just use OEM fluid. At the time I wasn't aware of the whole Z1 debacle so I have no idea what fluid they put in. It was Dec. 2010 so probably someone knows if Z1 was phased out.
So how long can I go on a 1x3 Redline D4 with no ill effects? I know that is almost to impossible answer and more a case to case situation, just thought I'd throw it out there. Because if for some reason the tranny now has to be opened up or drained I don't want to throw out $100 of fluid if you know what I mean.
#543
Well, I got under and removed the plastic shield only to be surprised to see a mild leak from under the tranny. Blah, was not expecting this and always kept a lookout hoping it wouldn't happen to me. The fluid was not really old still pretty wet and only about 100ml splashed on the shield with a few drops getting by. But it was grimy enough to know it has been there at least a couple months. It never affected the fluid level, I check it every month.
I did a 1x3 with Redline D4 and the transmission sensors. Man was that fluid DARK! No doubt this has to be done more often than the manual says. Driving impression was just like last time and just as expected and just like last time the car is driving like new. So before I complete the other 2x3s I wanted to source the leak. I cleaned it all up so I could maybe see where it will originate from. I don't think it is a line, that would be a faster leak correct? Could it be a gasket? Someone mentioned another sensor somewhere under a cover on the bottom that could have a leaky gasket. Is that a DIY fix or does it require a lot of disassembly? Yea, honestly, anything regarding the tranny past the fluid and these sensors totally intimidates me.
Lo and behold I saw a NEW leak now, it was a few drops on the garage floor after the test drive. But this leak seems different and it is coming from the other side closer to the wheel well where the sensors are. I thought OK I didn't torque one of the sensors right. but it wasn't coming from there but lower DOWN near where the lower bolt for the plastic shroud covering the sensor is? How can that be?? Makes no sense, the shroud contains an electrical type of wire, no kind of line correct? I gotta look at that carefully again.
3yrs ago I had a Honda dealer do a 3x3 of OEM fluid. I told them to just use OEM fluid. At the time I wasn't aware of the whole Z1 debacle so I have no idea what fluid they actually put in. It was Dec. 2010 so probably someone knows if Z1 was phased out.
So how long can I go on a 1x3 Redline D4 with no ill effects? I know that is almost to impossible answer and more a case to case situation, just thought I'd throw it out there. Because if for some reason the tranny now has to be opened up or drained I don't want to throw out $100 of fluid if you know what I mean.
I did a 1x3 with Redline D4 and the transmission sensors. Man was that fluid DARK! No doubt this has to be done more often than the manual says. Driving impression was just like last time and just as expected and just like last time the car is driving like new. So before I complete the other 2x3s I wanted to source the leak. I cleaned it all up so I could maybe see where it will originate from. I don't think it is a line, that would be a faster leak correct? Could it be a gasket? Someone mentioned another sensor somewhere under a cover on the bottom that could have a leaky gasket. Is that a DIY fix or does it require a lot of disassembly? Yea, honestly, anything regarding the tranny past the fluid and these sensors totally intimidates me.
Lo and behold I saw a NEW leak now, it was a few drops on the garage floor after the test drive. But this leak seems different and it is coming from the other side closer to the wheel well where the sensors are. I thought OK I didn't torque one of the sensors right. but it wasn't coming from there but lower DOWN near where the lower bolt for the plastic shroud covering the sensor is? How can that be?? Makes no sense, the shroud contains an electrical type of wire, no kind of line correct? I gotta look at that carefully again.
3yrs ago I had a Honda dealer do a 3x3 of OEM fluid. I told them to just use OEM fluid. At the time I wasn't aware of the whole Z1 debacle so I have no idea what fluid they actually put in. It was Dec. 2010 so probably someone knows if Z1 was phased out.
So how long can I go on a 1x3 Redline D4 with no ill effects? I know that is almost to impossible answer and more a case to case situation, just thought I'd throw it out there. Because if for some reason the tranny now has to be opened up or drained I don't want to throw out $100 of fluid if you know what I mean.
Last edited by rockyfeller; 10-26-2013 at 01:24 PM.
#544
Replaced Both switches and did the 1x3 fluid changed this weekend. Feels a lot smoother and I also had a rumble in the car when i drove on the highway. With the new switches and oil no more rumble..
#547
Just did my switches. Can feel the difference in shifting without a doubt. 3x3 will be next, but it will have to wait a few weeks as I'm headed out of town. Love this board and all the accumulated knowledge. Many thanks!
#548
2008
Thank you very much for all this info!!!
I finally decided to do something by myself. My wife drives TL-S 2007 and I noticed a significant jerk/kick when I go Drive from Reverse and Neutral (pooling back from a garage and then switching going forward). The car has 117,000 miles and I have never replaced these switches.
I called my dealer today and asked him about the costs, he quoted $206+parts, I called another dealer, he quoted $400+parts, the parts department asked $80 per switch (I need 3) and $4 per a washer. So by the time all said and done, I'm looking at anywhere from $470 to $660, that's just outrages. I'm taking a good care of my cars and average $2,200 a year for maintenance and repairs on this TL using 15-20% discounts; now I understand why it's so much. I don't plan to become a mechanic, but I should be able to do some simple things like this, hopefully
DIY on the 1st page was really good, but my car has 3 sensors, and I understand there will be some similarities. I was wandering if someone can point me to a manual or a diagram for 2007 TL-S.
Thank you!
I finally decided to do something by myself. My wife drives TL-S 2007 and I noticed a significant jerk/kick when I go Drive from Reverse and Neutral (pooling back from a garage and then switching going forward). The car has 117,000 miles and I have never replaced these switches.
I called my dealer today and asked him about the costs, he quoted $206+parts, I called another dealer, he quoted $400+parts, the parts department asked $80 per switch (I need 3) and $4 per a washer. So by the time all said and done, I'm looking at anywhere from $470 to $660, that's just outrages. I'm taking a good care of my cars and average $2,200 a year for maintenance and repairs on this TL using 15-20% discounts; now I understand why it's so much. I don't plan to become a mechanic, but I should be able to do some simple things like this, hopefully
DIY on the 1st page was really good, but my car has 3 sensors, and I understand there will be some similarities. I was wandering if someone can point me to a manual or a diagram for 2007 TL-S.
Thank you!
I am replacing the transmission fluid soon, would it be beneficial to replace the 3rd and 4th pressure switches on a 07/08 TL-S?
I understand this is more of a problem for the 04/06 models and that 07/08 they reinforced the transmission and added an extra switch for 3rd.
Thanks!
#549
^ very beneficial. There is a thread similar to this one but for the 2007-2008. Doesnt hurt to do switches. if it helps the trans, im all for it. https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840630
#550
Always hate "resurrecting" treads, but I'm kinda stuck. I replaced my switches in August 2013 (less than 10 000 miles ago), which is also when I did my third 3 quart transmission fluid change, yet in the past month when in 3rd gear going 50 km/h (30 mph) I get a shudder. Yes I know a lot of other people get this as their transmission is on it's way out, but should I try and redo the switches? I will be doing the fluid for sure in the coming week, but should I also order the switches or am I just wasting my time/money by doing so, and just try and get transmission insurance, run the transmission into the ground, and get a new one through insurance
Last edited by perilousp; 01-31-2014 at 01:44 PM. Reason: added mph
#551
Always hate "resurrecting" treads, but I'm kinda stuck. I replaced my switches in August 2013 (less than 10 000 miles ago), which is also when I did my third 3 quart transmission fluid change, yet in the past month when in 3rd gear going 50 km/h (30 mph) I get a shudder. Yes I know a lot of other people get this as their transmission is on it's way out, but should I try and redo the switches? I will be doing the fluid for sure in the coming week, but should I also order the switches or am I just wasting my time/money by doing so, and just try and get transmission insurance, run the transmission into the ground, and get a new one through insurance
#552
Did this yesterday as a preventative measure. I have 68K and didn't have any prior issues so didn't notice any major difference. I'm a mechanical noob yet was still able to figure it out thanks to the great write up and follow up. Thanks guys!
#553
Ah so you had done the switches/fluid change like me, had the issue, and after 1 more fluid change it went away?
#554
Hey bud.. nice write up... but,
Those are the wrong P/N's.. Those go to 2G TL's the 1G MDX ('01-'02) and 1 & 2G CL..
I'm not sure on the specs of those pressure switches but the rating for the 3rd Gear should 33psi and the 4th gear is 27psi.. I believe the colors are black/ grey & beige.
The correct P/N for the 3G TL should be:
04-06 TL (Texas Instruments, TI)
05-08 RL
07-09+ RDX
03-09+ MDX
07-08 TL (Washimiya?)
Those are the wrong P/N's.. Those go to 2G TL's the 1G MDX ('01-'02) and 1 & 2G CL..
I'm not sure on the specs of those pressure switches but the rating for the 3rd Gear should 33psi and the 4th gear is 27psi.. I believe the colors are black/ grey & beige.
The correct P/N for the 3G TL should be:
04-06 TL (Texas Instruments, TI)
28610-RAY-003
28600-RAY-003
also compatible with 28600-RAY-003
05-08 RL
07-09+ RDX
03-09+ MDX
07-08 TL (Washimiya?)
28610-RKE-004
28600-RKE-004
Edit: Don't panic.. just because those pressure sensors / switches go to the gen of crap transmissions doesn't mean they aren't good, the transmission design itself was poor.. but the specs may be different.. I'd change them out and flea bay those if you can't return them.28600-RKE-004
28610-RAY-003: 3rd gear?
28600-RAY-003: 4th gear?
Are these correct?
#557
My stupidity. Please help!!!
I replaced the 3rd and 4th gear switches last week and I think I put the 3rd gear switch in the 4th gear location and vice versa.
28610-ray-013 is 3rd Gear Switch?
28600-ray-003 is 4th Gear Switch?
I still have the old OEM switches. Is the 3rd gear switch tan in color with FV506 and 4th gear switch gray in color with GP521 written on it?
Doing the switch replacement for a 2006 Acura TL. Can someone confirm the above information?
I replaced the 3rd and 4th gear switches last week and I think I put the 3rd gear switch in the 4th gear location and vice versa.
28610-ray-013 is 3rd Gear Switch?
28600-ray-003 is 4th Gear Switch?
I still have the old OEM switches. Is the 3rd gear switch tan in color with FV506 and 4th gear switch gray in color with GP521 written on it?
Doing the switch replacement for a 2006 Acura TL. Can someone confirm the above information?
#558
not sure exactly what switch controls what gears, but each switch does control more than one gear
#559
My stupidity. Please help!!!
I replaced the 3rd and 4th gear switches last week and I think I put the 3rd gear switch in the 4th gear location and vice versa.
28610-ray-013 is 3rd Gear Switch?
28600-ray-003 is 4th Gear Switch?
I still have the old OEM switches. Is the 3rd gear switch tan in color with FV506 and 4th gear switch gray in color with GP521 written on it?
Doing the switch replacement for a 2006 Acura TL. Can someone confirm the above information?
I replaced the 3rd and 4th gear switches last week and I think I put the 3rd gear switch in the 4th gear location and vice versa.
28610-ray-013 is 3rd Gear Switch?
28600-ray-003 is 4th Gear Switch?
I still have the old OEM switches. Is the 3rd gear switch tan in color with FV506 and 4th gear switch gray in color with GP521 written on it?
Doing the switch replacement for a 2006 Acura TL. Can someone confirm the above information?
#560
I ordered 28610-RAY-003 and 28600-RAY-003. They shipped
28610-RAY-013 and 28600-RAY-013 to me today. I checked these 2 new parts on their website, but they do not exist.
Are these the right ones for the job? Does anybody know? I just wanted to make sure before I start working on the car tomorrow.
28610-RAY-013 and 28600-RAY-013 to me today. I checked these 2 new parts on their website, but they do not exist.
Are these the right ones for the job? Does anybody know? I just wanted to make sure before I start working on the car tomorrow.