'07 Acura TL-S Rear Calipers
#1
ChicagoNick
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'07 Acura TL-S Rear Calipers
Forgive me for my noobiness, but... I've probably read through the DIY Brake Threads a hundred times. However, I keep coming up with questions when it comes to the rear calipers.
1. In the shop manual, it shows a rear caliper overhaul... at what point would this be necessary? Removing the piston and replacing the piston seal and piston boot. I'm assuming this would be overkill to do when replacing the pads/rotors at 35K miles.
2. When changing the rear rotors, I see that you have to disengage the parking brake. Next, you rotate the "spike" wheel.
a. how do you rotate that spike wheel?
b. how do you reset it do it's original setting after new rotors are installed?
Thanks for any info
Nick
1. In the shop manual, it shows a rear caliper overhaul... at what point would this be necessary? Removing the piston and replacing the piston seal and piston boot. I'm assuming this would be overkill to do when replacing the pads/rotors at 35K miles.
2. When changing the rear rotors, I see that you have to disengage the parking brake. Next, you rotate the "spike" wheel.
a. how do you rotate that spike wheel?
b. how do you reset it do it's original setting after new rotors are installed?
Thanks for any info
Nick
#2
LIST/RAMEN/WING MAHSTA 짱
iTrader: (16)
Hi Nick, I'm sure others will chime in, but I've NEVER heard of anyone overhauling the rear calipers. I'm sure that this would only need to be done if you had leaking issues. So, yes, IMHO, it is overkill to do @ 35k. I have 50k on mine, and I don't have any problems.
#3
Suzuka Master
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Hi Nick, I'm sure others will chime in, but I've NEVER heard of anyone overhauling the rear calipers. I'm sure that this would only need to be done if you had leaking issues. So, yes, IMHO, it is overkill to do @ 35k. I have 50k on mine, and I don't have any problems.
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
They are only rebuilt or replaced when there is a problem. When changing pads, the piston should move back into the bore with relative ease, as a great amount of pressure should not be needed.
The parking brake is disengaged so as that the brake shoes, located inside the rotor hat, is not in contact with the rotor. If the parking brake functions correctly, no adjustment is necessary. I use a brake spoon inserted through the backing plate to contact the "star" wheel if necessary to loosen or tighten. If the shoes hang up on the inside of the rotor when trying to remove, then you will need to back off the shoes via the star wheel, but don't forget to readjust after the new rotor is installed.
Make absolutely certain that everthing is clean and lube is applied to the correct locations.
As an afterthought, the screws thats secure the rotor into place are most times very difficult to remove. I use a had impact screw driver, and they should come out easily, especially while the car is relatively new. They can even be drilled out as they are not a needed item to replace after rotor installation. They are utilized to hold the rotor in place during the assembly process.
Last edited by Turbonut; 03-04-2010 at 01:59 PM.
#4
ChicagoNick
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Thanks for the input everyone!
I use my parking brake daily so I imagine everything will go smoothly.
With that being said, I'll still look into buying the brake spoon tool.
Nick
I use my parking brake daily so I imagine everything will go smoothly.
With that being said, I'll still look into buying the brake spoon tool.
Nick
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