yank_my_chain

Hello! I have an '05 6mt with 172K Miles. Original clutch/slave/master.
Driving yesterday noticed getting into first gear not as smooth as usual. Pulled up to a light and then when green put clutch to the floor but was not able to get the gear selector into first gear. I could not get into any gear. Sat through the light not able to move. After pumping the clutch several times was finally able to get into first. The remainder of the drive home changing gears was normal except getting into first at another light was not as smooth as normal. Went out for a drive later and had the same issue where I could not get into any gear with the clutch on the floor. After pumping the clutch was able to get into gear.

Any thoughts on what would cause this issue? Bad slave or master? Hope it's not the clutch itself.

Thanks!!

twokexlv6coupe

Start with changing the master and slave TOGETHER, and hope that solves your issue. Because that's going to be MUCH cheaper and easier than a clutch job.

BROlando

This is a classic hydraulic system issue and that is probably what it is.

Here, follow this...

Brake/clutch fluids need to be flushed at the most, once every 2 years. If not, they will become contaminated and will start breaking down the internal seals first. Other problems will follow down the road. The fluid absorbs water, so if you don't maintain it, it will start a corrosive process from inside out.

Step 1.
Look for hydraulic leaks. Check your master cylinder fluid level. Is it low? Where did the fluid go? Look at all the lines and also look at the area where the clutch pedal meets the firewall. If a line or fitting is leaking, fix the leak first.

Step 2.
Try changing out and bleeding the fluid with DOT3 brake fluid. Do a proper bleed and ensure its done correctly. Use a 1 man bleeder bottle. Don't use pump/hold, as its prone to error and is inefficient.

If step 2 resulted in at least some improvement if your issue.... it may be a master/slave cylinder related problem. Change both. Consider changing the lines too, if your fluid has not been maintained well. They are full of contamination if that's the case. This is LESS likely to be the cause if step 2 showed absolutely no improvement of your problem.

If step 2 showed absolutely no improvement, it is more likely be a clutch issue. The disc may have broken a spring out of its cage, or the grease on the splines is dried up. You'll need to drop the trans and check. Use Honda HT Urea grease when you reassemble. If that is not available, Lucas Xtra HD Polyurea is the next closest, commercially available option. Its very important to use the right grease.

yank_my_chain

Thanks for the great feedback! I bought the car new and I don't remember the clutch fluid ever being changed/flushed (unless the dealer did that with a brake fluid flush man many years ago). I'll start with checking the fluid level and go from there.

How difficult is it to replace the master/slave? I've done the timing belt job with associated rollers & water pump myself a couple years ago.

Really hope it is not the clutch itself. I know there are many factors that go into this but how long can a clutch last in one of these?

BROlando

The average clutch replacement timeframe due to *wear* is probably 100-150K miles

But if your problem is clutch related, its not due to wear. Its due to a failure of some component.

However, its much more likely that your issue is hydraulic.

PhilB81

Below is my clutch issue thread maybe it’ll help.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2...pedal-1000877/

Striball

If you were able to pump the pressure back, it confirms you have some sort of hydraulic issue. Do recommend checking the fluid level if anything. I did my clutch slave and master last year on my 05 6MT before I sold the car because I noticed the grab point would get lower and lower reversing out of my driveway as I varied the clutch pedal, same in first gear as I varied the pedal.

I used both LUK parts from Rock Auto and had no issues. However, the install? It's a 10/10 pain man. The clutch master is literally tucked as far back into the corner of the bay as possible, it's hard to even see the dang thing. Getting the bolts out was somewhat okay, but getting the locking pin out for the clutch line felt like it cost me 10 years of my life getting it out lol. Idk how it goes for other people but I think it took a solid 2 hours getting the locking pin out. Getting it back in was also terrible. It's a pressure fit line, not a screw in fitting that YOU'D THINK they'd use. So a press in, and locking pin on top, hard to convey without a picture but I suppose it's searchable. Slave is super easy. CHANGE BOTH TOGETHER.

FWIW, my car had 108k miles.

yank_my_chain

You are all awesome! Thanks again for the advice.

Regarding the installation - I have watched several videos and plan to also get a new flexible line from the master to the slave. Hopefully that will make it a bit easier because I believe I can then do the issue with the pin outside before getting it in place. With it being now 18 years old I'm sure just getting the old fittings separated will be quite difficult.

Any recommendations on a new flex line?

Off to RockAuto.com...