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Bought an 04 6mt about 6 months ago and whenever I’m on the hwy the car shakes at 60 mph - 75mph only when I accelerate when I don’t step on the gas or brake there’s not shaking or anything, it doesn’t bug me too much since I’m either driving less than 60 or 80 and Idk what it is but If I could get some info on what it could be I’ll be fixing as soon as I know what it is, anything helps
Have you instpected your engine mounts? When you step on the brake down through those speeds does it shake the same way? Doe it happen when braking through those speeds in neutral? Give us some more info.
Have you instpected your engine mounts? When you step on the brake down through those speeds does it shake the same way? Doe it happen when braking through those speeds in neutral? Give us some more info.
yea I’ve already replaced all the mounts , when I brake it’s like the problem isn’t ever there I get no shake or anything only when I step on the gas
Did your car vibrate on specifically left or right turns when accelerating? Mine only vibrates in 1-2-3 gear (6MT) on right turns only. Currently wondering if it is the right side axle or something different, axle looks completely healthy at 100k miles. All engine mounts replaced within the year with OEM.
Did your car vibrate on specifically left or right turns when accelerating? Mine only vibrates in 1-2-3 gear (6MT) on right turns only. Currently wondering if it is the right side axle or something different, axle looks completely healthy at 100k miles. All engine mounts replaced within the year with OEM.
Just curious, if you rev your engine, in neutral gear, between 1200 & 1700 rpms do you notice a slight engine vibration?
Originally Posted by zeta
I had an annoying slight vibration in the engine, while in neutral, at between 1200 & 1700 rpms. It would not be noticable up to 1200 RPM or after 1700 RPM in or out of gear. The vibration would increase noticeably when driving through that RPM range while in gear shifting through first and second. Because the vibration was still present when just reving the engine through that RPM range, I attributed it to a worn flywheel (original to car) and/or a worn clutch/pressure plate which had approximately 90K since it was last changed. All motor/trans. mounts have less than 15k miles on them.
Just curious, if you rev your engine, in neutral gear, between 1200 & 1700 rpms do you notice a slight engine vibration?
Sorry, I meant to quote 65efi in my reply above.
But anyway, just did the neutral rev hold test you mentioned and my car revs and holds RPM and has zero vibrations and is very smooth.
However, this accel vibration started after I lowered my car with coilovers, but it's not low low, probably a .75 to 1 inch drop (forget the actual numbers). So I assume the now angle of the CV shaft is slightly different and is the reason for the vibration, likely contributing to quicker wear or something. Most vibration occurs at 2.2k rpm and under in gears 1-2-3.
^
No, he mentioned that the motor mounts had been replaced 'within the year'.
Him having a 6Mt, I just thought his 'vibration' may had been something, similar to mine, to do with the flywheel while driving through those gears/rpms; however, he confirmed that his 'neutral gear' rev test was smooth so that kills that idea.
As you say, the 3G TL does not like to be lowered to much before the axles start to complain.
^
No, he mentioned that the motor mounts had been replaced 'within the year'.
Him having a 6Mt, I just thought his 'vibration' may had been something, similar to mine, to do with the flywheel while driving through those gears/rpms; however, he confirmed that his 'neutral gear' rev test was smooth so that kills that idea.
As you say, the 3G TL does not like to be lowered to much before the axles start to complain.
Seems like a permanent solution is to simply raise the car up until there's no vibration huh? I assume a new axle would be a short term fix, because the axle angle is still going to be a problem and vibration would probably come back. And if that's the case, I wonder how many of the nicely lowered TL's we see on this forum have this same vibation issue, and if they just put up with it to keep the car looking good?
I replaced the axle and since they ride in a different position they were fine for the additional 75k miles I owned that car.
I have an 04 6mt with 116,000 miles and is having the same issue. When I accelerate it vibrates. Heard this is a throwout bearing issue. I'm replacing my clutch in a couple of weeks as it been slipping and around that time anyways. I will be replacing the clutch, flywheels, seals and throwout bearing and hopefully this fixes it. When this started happening I thought it was the axel so I replaced it and still it didn't go away. Took my car to a performance shop to get it diagnose and they said it the throwout bearing. The technician said he seen it with other cars. Hope this helps.
I have an 04 6mt with 116,000 miles and is having the same issue. When I accelerate it vibrates. Heard this is a throwout bearing issue.I'm replacing my clutch in a couple of weeks as it been slipping and around that time anyways. I will be replacing the clutch, flywheels, seals and throwout bearing and hopefully this fixes it. When this started happening I thought it was the axel so I replaced it and still it didn't go away. Took my car to a performance shop to get it diagnose and they said it the throwout bearing. The technician said he seen it with other cars. Hope this helps.
That's interesting.
When I look at the 'mass' of the throw out bearing (red) and its actuating point on the #3 clutch release fork:
It's hard to believe that that alone could cause such a vibration, when driving, compared to the 'mass' of the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate assembly below?
Though I suppose anything is possible?
Are you sure your 'performance shop' doesn't see $$$$ when they look at your particular issue?
I bet it's the throwout bearing hanging up causing the vibration to transfer from the input (output) shaft...
funny enough, I have been chasing a come & go vibration too...and my clutch is at the end of life so I wonder...
I've replaced ALL the usual suspects...I need motor mounts but figured I'd tackle all that when I do the big jobs to
seal it up.
Good info and definitely let us know if that rectifies your issue.
From what I can observe, on the pic below, the throw out bearing has no contact with the transmission input/output shaft?
Only contact I can see happening is on the splines of the PP when the clutch release fork actuates.
Hopefully TLinLB will remember to update this thread when his clutch has been replaced.
Sorry, I meant to quote 65efi in my reply above.
But anyway, just did the neutral rev hold test you mentioned and my car revs and holds RPM and has zero vibrations and is very smooth.
However, this accel vibration started after I lowered my car with coilovers, but it's not low low, probably a .75 to 1 inch drop (forget the actual numbers). So I assume the now angle of the CV shaft is slightly different and is the reason for the vibration, likely contributing to quicker wear or something. Most vibration occurs at 2.2k rpm and under in gears 1-2-3.
The axles are succeptible to pitting in the inner cups.
The bearings "sweep" back and forth within the cup as the axle rotates.
When you lower the car, you alter the axle angle.
You broaden the sweep.
Now the bearing is sweeping in and out of the pits. And you get them shakes.
The pits represent the bearing sweep at stock height. The bearing has eroded the soft material in the cup.
Its likely due to the composition of the OE grease not having enough EP additive. Just speculation on that, since I've never analyzed it or seen it analyzed.
This can go unnoticed until you lower the car. Lowering the car didn't cause the pits...but it will now make them noticeable. Because as I said...the sweep is bigger so the bearing is jumping in and out of those pits as the axle rotates around.
What I've found success in is to rebuild the axles myself either with new inner cups from Honda/Acura...or from low mile axle donors.
I use Redline CV2 grease in the new cups. It should have enough moly additive in it to help with this. So far, I've done it to 2 TSX's and a few S2000's and its been holding up.
The throwout bearing is always rotating at engine speed.
When you're accelerating at the speed you said, the clutch is engaged (pedal is all the way up).
In that case the throwout bearing is coasting (at engine speed) on the pressure plate's fingers. The only load on it is the preload from the slave cylinder spring. It's a very weak spring. Its just there to take up slop.
So why would it cause a wheel speed and acceleration dependent vibration??
I'd ask that shop what happens if their theory doesn't pan out? do they continue to fix the issue for free? refund you the unnecessary clutch work? Ask them and see how they react. That should give u an indication of their confidence.
I'm confident that its a crackpot theory though...
As you say, the 3G TL does not like to be lowered to much before the axles start to complain.
I didn't opt for A-Spec when I bought this car because given the condition of the roads here in the NYC/NJ area, lowering the car was and still is the LAST thing I want to do. I've already had enough with repairing and replacing wheels over the years due to all the marijuana holes.
.
The axles are succeptible to pitting in the inner cups.
The bearings "sweep" back and forth within the cup as the axle rotates.
When you lower the car, you alter the axle angle.
You broaden the sweep.
Now the bearing is sweeping in and out of the pits. And you get them shakes.
The pits represent the bearing sweep at stock height. The bearing has eroded the soft material in the cup.
Its likely due to the composition of the OE grease not having enough EP additive. Just speculation on that, since I've never analyzed it or seen it analyzed.
This can go unnoticed until you lower the car. Lowering the car didn't cause the pits...but it will now make them noticeable. Because as I said...the sweep is bigger so the bearing is jumping in and out of those pits as the axle rotates around.
What I've found success in is to rebuild the axles myself either with new inner cups from Honda/Acura...or from low mile axle donors.
I use Redline CV2 grease in the new cups. It should have enough moly additive in it to help with this. So far, I've done it to 2 TSX's and a few S2000's and its been holding up.
You measure the amount of grease to put in the cup? That's amazing! How much grease does each cup call for?
Seems like a permanent solution is to simply raise the car up until there's no vibration huh? I assume a new axle would be a short term fix, because the axle angle is still going to be a problem and vibration would probably come back. And if that's the case, I wonder how many of the nicely lowered TL's we see on this forum have this same vibation issue, and if they just put up with it to keep the car looking good?
Just a little update: Removed my coils and returned back to stock (about to sell the car) and vibration in 1-2-3 gears is gone at a higher height. Didn't try raising the coils, but instead just took them off.
05-05-2022, 02:30 AM
The vibration would increase noticeably when driving through that RPM range while in gear shifting through first and second. Because the vibration was still present when just reving the engine through that RPM range, I attributed it to a worn flywheel (original to car) and/or a worn clutch/pressure plate which had approximately 90K since it was last changed. All motor/trans. mounts have less than 15k miles on them.
That's amazing! How much grease does each cup call for?
