Anyone know where is the stick to check transmissions level, tks

 

There isn't one.

 

Didnt know that, so only dealer can check the level?

 

Correct...page 542 of the downloadable owners manual states: "Have a dealer check the fluid level and replace as necessary...do not attempt to check or change the fluid yourself"

EDIT: Just to be clear, I'm referring to the '19 RDX, your image shows a previous gen RDX.

 

thanks, yes still using my previous ‘13 RDX, for profile pictures..

 

These modern high-gear-count transmissions aren't amenable to DIY servicing. Same with the ZF 9-speed. Not impossible to DIY, just probably not advisable, especially when it's under warranty.

Considering there's only likely to be one or two ATF changes during the powertrain warranty period, I'll just let the dealer do it.

But if it's acting up and you were just thinking of checking the ATF level as a troubleshooting measure, that's not easy. First step is probably to have the dealer check for trouble codes.

 

I disagree, after reading the steps for a transmission fluid change it’s actually a very very simple procedure and I see no reason to pay the dealer big bucks to do something as easy as drain and fill, on top of the fact that your warranty will be just as intact if you DIY it, as long as you follow the procedure and use the proper fluid, and of course document what you did, and although it’s not as easy as checking a dip stick, the procedure to check the fluid level is also fairly easy. As someone who takes extra care when doing anything, I would much rather trust myself over my dealer for this work

 

Undercover Removal:



ATF Replacement and Check:

 

That's great that you provided the procedure for those who wish to do this themselves!

I'm at a point in my life that I will no longer do much more than change a wiper blade. Unfortunately, age has caught up with my desire and ability to do these DIY projects. This wasn't the case in prior years, had all the tools: two floor jacks, creeper, stands, etc. Still have a large tool chest full of tools, if only one of my sons was inclined to work on cars. Millennials!

Other than wanting to insure that it is done right, I honestly don't miss the skinned knuckles etc. This being an amazing vehicle to drive, I intend to enjoy driving it and not working on it. The dealer will get some of my money and service business. I used to enjoy doing this. Oh well. I can't tell you how many quarts of oil I changed, and how many water pumps, alternators, radiator hoses, fan belts, spark plugs, points, condensers, etc. I put in my 68 Cutlass and 70 Camaro back in the day. Of course, things have changed, and for the better. My father-in-law, may he rest in peace, used to tell me (we should be able to weld the hoods shut on cars and they should last 100,000 miles). And he always did his own repairs/maintenance.

 

I agree 100% for DYI who wants to do the job right. My experience with dealers is some technician will rush through the job. Base on the ATF instructions you posted the procedure is straight forward. I have all the tools and trim removal to make the job super easy.

 

• Engine warmed up to normal operating temp, with the undercover removed.

• "Check the ATF level right after shifting the transmission through all of the positions/modes and turning the engine off."

• And, of course, the vehicle must be level.

Pulling the plugs is easy. Satisfying the above conditions would be a lot easier with a lift than without. And the accuracy of the result is dependent upon them.

As I said, not impossible. Difficult to do right.

But it's not as hard as the ZF 9-speed because AFAIK the ATF in this trans doesn't expand as much with temperature as the crazy ( and crazy expensive ) stuff used in that trans.

I think part of the reason this thing doesn't have a dipstick is because it's sensitive to contamination. But I have no evidence to back that up. Just general angst about these transmissions. I routinely change ATF in 5-6 speed transmissions.

 

just wanna check the level, making sure they're good, there's no way I will diy, not even changing my oil..

 

i have been curious of some of the jumpy shifts could be related to a low ATF level out of the factory. Has anyone body checked their levels ?? Mine clear up once warm but perhaps it’s slightly low on fluid

 

Thanks very much for posting the procedure. Last week I went by the Acura place to get a problem fixed on the RDX and picked up trans/diff fluids to change those on my '05 MDX. I was wondering if I'd be able to do it on the RDX.

 

I do have a question on the '05 generation the general accepted procedure was to drain and replace the transmission fluid three times. Is that not the case here?

 

That is good practice on the 2005 MDX with the 5-speed transmission, especially because of the cumulative miles and years of use. That's what I usually do with our well-loved 2005. And also with its stablemate, a 2014 MDX ( 6-speed ). That ATF is pretty cheap, so it mostly costs my time. But this is considered a "flush", not a routine ATF change. AFAIK a dealer would charge extra for that.

Dunno on 2019 RDX, but I probably won't worry about it for the first couple of changes. YMMV

BTW, it's a different ATF fluid for the 10-speed than 5 or 6 speed, and I think it's a couple bucks more expensive. 10-speed needs Honda/Acura Type 2.0; 5 and 6 speed take DW-1. They are NOT cross-compatible.

BTW, @Derieileak, are you aware of the "clutch break-in procedure" that may be applicable to particularly "jumpy shifting" 2019 RDX's? ( Dealer service ) This is a known issue for the low-gear shifts, especially with very early production 2019 RDX's that don't have much wear on them. I wouldn't say mine is silky smooth, but I do think it's getting a bit smoother with wear. YMMV

 

yea I have heard of that, seems like mine is just jumpy when initially cold and after about 2-5 minutes of driving it because smooth for most the shifts after that, although some are still a bit more bumpy then I would like, I do have 9k miles on mine already and I have lots of fun with it, so I would imagine the clutches in my tranny would be decently broken in, that’s why I wonder if the fluid level is possibly low, I would imagine as it warms up it expands, so maybe when it’s cold it’s low, idk 😁 does seem to be smoothing our the more I drive it.

also I will add exactly what you emphasized, the hardest part of the ATF change is not having a lift and needing the Car level to do it correctly, I’ll probably have to buy a few more jack stands to do mine and maybe another hydraulic jack as backup, but first ATF change is what @ 30k?? Luckily the rear diff is easy to get too so that should be cake to change at 15k, I wonder when the front diff is due, with the transmission perhaps?

 

Front transfer case is usually serviced on the same schedule as the transmission. I think mostly because they are inches apart.

It just takes about a half quart of hypoid gear oil, so no biggie. The hardest part is pumping the stuff in there with a hand pump, especially if it's cold.

 

I think that it is Acura kicking a dealer its dealers big mark up maintenance item. My shop loves to get my car so that they can overcharge for basic work and to recommend work that is not in the manual or is made up. My car has avoided the dealer for several years now. Some of the quotes that I have seen for basic oil/other fluid changes are crazy. Plus you get the "new kid" doing this work. You may be right that it is to protect the transmission......

 

I'm not sure how many, but there are a lot of current cars that don't have transmission dipsticks anymore, it is not unique to Acura.
The last Toyotas I owned didn't, and our current 2015 Ford Escape doesn't either. A quick search shows most Fords, Chevys, Toyotas, and Hondas don't either.

Here's an interesting (possible) explanation.

No dipstick

Another article with bit more info:

More info

 

I hadn't thought about the quickie lube places possibly using the wrong fluid ( or worse yet, hooking it up to one of their power-flush machines ). I stopped using those places many years ago.

OTOH both of those blurbs are from independent service groups, and they sound like infomercials.

 

Yeah, could be, they were just two I quickly found with an explanation, and seemingly the same explanation.
Anyway, it sounded reasonable.
I don't remember the first vehicle I had without a trans dipstick, but I do remember it was hotly debated on the forum at the time.

 

You can do this accurately without a lift. Here's how I did it. Find an area of your driveway with a very slight hill grade, approximately 2 degrees. Your iPhone has a level to check this (go to compass and swipe sideways to change to level). Arrange the vehicle downslope on the grade. Drive the front two wheels up on 2" high wood boards (wide enough to be safe, say a 2x6) so the front of the vehicle is 2" raised. That makes the vehicle perfectly level and it allowed me enough clearance to get under the front. Then I changed the transmission fluid. After it's perfect, seal the bolts on and drive off the boards.
Wear eye protection and a rubber gloves for safety! And if neighbors tell you to take it to the dealer, wear earplugs.

 

I am trying to find exactly where the fill plug is. If I remove the wheel would that make it easier to remove that inner plastic flap and then find the plug. I managed to partially drain my transmission fluid instead of the oil and now I am 175 miles from a dealer to get it towed to. They need to put me in a home after that bone head move.

Any assistance would help.

 

No need to remove a wheel. I was in the same predicament as you, drained the ATF when I meant to drain the oil instead, then I had to drive a different car to buy ATF and more oil. Don't feel bad!
I don't think removing a wheel would have helped anyways because the ATF fill and level holes are central behind the grill. Use the diagram above; I had a 2020 RDX and it matched precisely. You'll need a pump to put the ATF in. Pump it in until it comes out the level hole. Then plug both and you're good to go.
As I recall when I unwrenched those plugs to open and close them back up after refilling I recall they were difficult to get at. I laid on my back under the front and reached up to get them. I could hardly see what I was doing but I could feel well enough with my hands to get it done. You can also see it from the top with the hood up. It might help to get a visual and a feel from the top, but then you'll need to get under the car to actually wrench them off and put them back on. I also pumped the ATF into the hole from under the car as well. Wear gloves and eye protection; not good stuff to work with.

 

Any good sources of a picture or two? Does the plastic wheel cap need removed? The video from the Acura tech referring to an MDX made it look like the plugs were very visible when the wheel was removed but then again it is a totally different vehicle and transmission so don’t know why he sends it.

 

Just occurred to me you're looking at an MDX. This thread is for RDX ATF change though. MDX might be very different, hence the part about the wheel. Sorry I can't help with an MDX since mine was an RDX.

 

Your instructions helped a bunch as I have an RDX. We found the plugs on the front like you and the diagram showed.

 

I bet that after “authorized” dealer service half of those plastic clips for under the car covers will be missing/broken.

 

Is there a need to check ATF fluid level during B service? I doubt dealer does it

 

yes, the B service is supposed to check ALL LEVELS of FLUID

 

I seriously doubt they check transmission fluid
level for every B service.

 

yes, i doubt it too.

 

How far off the ground does the car need to be (thinking of buying the wheel cribs for this project)? Will be doing transmission and transfer case fluid change.

Thanks,
TT

 

I just used regular car ramps. It is just like changing the motor oil. There is enough clearance that you may not need to pull the car all the way to the top of your ramps.

 

Engine oil change I don't even need to lift the car up. I slide underneath. So a 4" tires off the ground would be good enough?

 

This is so true. It happens to me often and I complained to them. Dealer did not have the clips. They place an order and I have to wait several weeks for an appointment. It’s a waste of time even though it’s free. I purchase the clips for a few bucks and replace the clips myself. Besides broken clips the y also fucked up such as causing scratches they did to my infortainment. I only found out when I took it apart to install idle stopper. This is why I hesitated to bring my car to the dealer unless it’s a last resort and necessary for warranty work. Otherwise I do it myself.

 

Yep the so called call professional. My ex lexus, half of the clips gone . I never trust a dealer's work.

 

its disgusting, they charge top dollar and so called “factory trained technicians”.
I suspect now its even more difficult to keep good techs, everyone is having shortages in staff, they
probably happy to hire almost anyone they can

 

So if mine is a AWD and I am planning to just drain the transmission oil and re add it, all i need is 5.1 quart?

Thanks,
TT