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Has anyone attempted to install the remote starter for their RDX? If so, did you have to bring the car to the dealer to have it programmed or can we do the keyless remote programming method?
I just had remote start installed last week only A-Spec and it has to be done at the dealer. They have to take apart the entire cargo area just to get access to the rear section of the headliner to install the tranciever for remote start. The instructions are at least 12 pages long. The actual mounting of the transceiver takes only 3 minutes or less and I had the chance to go take a look after the cargo are was disassembled. It took my dealer almost 4 hours to do the install and program the remotes and they initially quoted me a time of 1.5 hours. They even gave me a loaner to drive around so me, my wife, and daughter didn't have to wait in the waiting room. When I got the car back you couldn't even tell they took anything apart. Since then it has worked flawlessly and I love using it more than the Acura Link App. Also they will give you back your original key fobs so now I have 4 key fobs. The original ones still work and all I had to do was just transfer the original mechanical key from the old fob to the new fob. I plan on searching eBay for another set of mechanical keys to put in my original fobs. Yes the dealer has to program the new keys, there is no way around it.
... I plan on searching eBay for another set of mechanical keys to put in my original fobs. Yes the dealer has to program the new keys, there is no way around it.
I am not so lucky. Dealer broke up my door sill screw.
Here is a set of blank keys I bought on ebay. They fit perfectly. I am looking for a locksmith or maybe a key
maker to copy my original keys.
Hey, Thank you for the info! I am trying to use the Acura Link but not liking it. I do miss the green confirmation light on my MDX fob key.
Originally Posted by kboo74656
I just had remote start installed last week only A-Spec and it has to be done at the dealer. They have to take apart the entire cargo area just to get access to the rear section of the headliner to install the tranciever for remote start. The instructions are at least 12 pages long. The actual mounting of the transceiver takes only 3 minutes or less and I had the chance to go take a look after the cargo are was disassembled. It took my dealer almost 4 hours to do the install and program the remotes and they initially quoted me a time of 1.5 hours. They even gave me a loaner to drive around so me, my wife, and daughter didn't have to wait in the waiting room. When I got the car back you couldn't even tell they took anything apart. Since then it has worked flawlessly and I love using it more than the Acura Link App. Also they will give you back your original key fobs so now I have 4 key fobs. The original ones still work and all I had to do was just transfer the original mechanical key from the old fob to the new fob. I plan on searching eBay for another set of mechanical keys to put in my original fobs. Yes the dealer has to program the new keys, there is no way around it.
For all those interested in doing a DIY install for the OEM remote start, I will be doing it. I ordered the remote starter from a Acura dealer for $280 with shipping and trim removal kit from amazon. I will try to take pictures along the way and the problems I encountered during my installation. I called Curry Acura here in NY and stated that they will program the remote start fob keys for $120. I will post everything here.
For all those interested in doing a DIY install for the OEM remote start, I will be doing it. I ordered the remote starter from a Acura dealer for $280 with shipping and trim removal kit from amazon. I will try to take pictures along the way and the problems I encountered during my installation. I called Curry Acura here in NY and stated that they will program the remote start fob keys for $120. I will post everything here.
Not to bad for the program of the remote, its kinda stupid they charge even that much, its literally them plugging in a computer, and hitting add 2 way remote, but better price then paying the dealer to install everything, and damage stuff, looking forward to pics, I have heard of some doing it without removing all the panels in the side, only pulling the top panel somehow, but I have not seen pics
Really, good advice. I've been looking at the instructions and I thought about starting from the power gate trim pieces. Hopefully, it will provide enough space for me to lower the headliner without damaging anything.
I just never had good luck working on the interiors of cars. If you know exactly how something comes off, it's not a problem. But I usually end up breaking clips, over-stressing a panel the wrong way or bending / breaking retaining tabs. After I get something off, it's obvious - "Ohhh, so that's how you take it off without #%&king it up!!"
I just never had good luck working on the interiors of cars. If you know exactly how something comes off, it's not a problem. But I usually end up breaking clips, over-stressing a panel the wrong way or bending / breaking retaining tabs. After I get something off, it's obvious - "Ohhh, so that's how you take it off without #%&king it up!!"
Interested to hear about your experience.
that’s why I don’t trust dealers to do this, they have a time crunch and if the guy installing it has never done it will no doubt rush and make mistakes/break clips
that’s why I don’t trust dealers to do this, they have a time crunch and if the guy installing it has never done it will no doubt rush and make mistakes/break clips
It happened to me. Both rear door sill clips were broken. Even after they were replaced my door plastic sill trims never sit flush against the floor anymore.
Basically, interiors are designed for one time installation and never to be disturbed. They're not designed for regular maintenance. If somebody works on it who's experienced and really good, like you most often find at body shops, they can do a good job. Maybe there are tricks like adding foam to reduce rattles and maybe dealers have plenty of replacement parts like fasteners and clips. But I suspect some guys might use adhesives where they're not supposed to be used. Good luck if you have to access that area again.
It's beyond stupid that this has to be done to install remote start. Consider that any car with push-button start already has the capability built in. It's just an engine command. The transceiver should be installed at the time of assembly for minimal cost, in all trim packages. Then, they can charge the customer a couple hundred bucks for two new fobs and programming. They'll sell thousands more and still make a a handsome profit on each one. It's bad enough they charge $700 for the installation but to have to gut the entire back half of the interior down to the rivets and welds is unsettling to any owner.
Instead of the taking pictures, I decided to take a video of the installation. I'll post it as soon as I am done. Last night, I removed the rear door sills without any issue; it came out very easily. In the video, I will show how to remove each panel without breaking the clips (hopefully ). In order to know exactly where the clips are, I will show each trim panel's underside. Here are some pics.
Originally Posted by ToniRDX19
It happened to me. Both rear door sill clips were broken. Even after they were replaced my door plastic sill trims never sit flush against the floor anymore.
Basically, interiors are designed for one time installation and never to be disturbed. They're not designed for regular maintenance.
Untrue. Interiors are designed to be fully removable in order to access electrical and mechanical systems, or to replace interior components because of damage. In addition to body shops, car audio installation shops are experienced in interior component removal and replacement.
Dealer service techs "should" be able to handle most of it, but there is certainly the potential for complications, especially if it's the first time they have accessed a particular area on a particular model.
A good selection of trim tools is essential, as is a modicum of patience. Access to detailed diagrams can certainly help.
But this install is a big undertaking. Kudos to OP for taking it on.
Does anyone know the part number for these? I am pissed mine is bent. I want to replace both rear door sill. The gaps are letting dirt in.
Now if you need the entire rear door sills
Here are the part number based on the color. You will need to verify with the parts department 84211-TJB-A01ZA 84251-TJB-A11ZA 84261-TJB-A01ZA
If you only need the yellow clips, this is the part number 91560-TX4-A01
Untrue. Interiors are designed to be fully removable in order to access electrical and mechanical systems, or to replace interior components because of damage. In addition to body shops, car audio installation shops are experienced in interior component removal and replacement.
Dealer service techs "should" be able to handle most of it, but there is certainly the potential for complications, especially if it's the first time they have accessed a particular area on a particular model.
A good selection of trim tools is essential, as is a modicum of patience. Access to detailed diagrams can certainly help.
But this install is a big undertaking. Kudos to OP for taking it on.
Thank you. Honestly, the instructions provided by Acura is quite good. There is no need to fully remove the trim parts to lower the headliner. I also agree with what you stated. Anyway, when the video is posted, you will see.
Now if you need the entire rear door sills
Here are the part number based on the color. You will need to verify with the parts department 84211-TJB-A01ZA 84251-TJB-A11ZA 84261-TJB-A01ZA
If you only need the yellow clips, this is the part number 91560-TX4-A01
That's all I needed to hear. I pretty much got that from the instructions.
Originally Posted by Wander
Untrue. Interiors are designed to be fully removable in order to access electrical and mechanical systems, or to replace interior components because of damage. ...
Wow, I must have over 3 hours of video... Of course after the edit, it will be much shorter. Once I got the receiver installed (this was probably the hardest part of the install), putting all the trim pieces back together took like 40 minutes. I was going real slow not to break any clips; you need to line up the hole to the clips, which was easy to do even in the dark . It will cost $1.25 to replace those clips so not so bad.
I wish I did a better job recording the install but I did my best. I would strongly recommend taping the rear panels near the power gate to prevent scratches. Enjoy.
I am getting it programmed this Friday. It will cost me $140 with taxes included. I called a local locksmith and they stated that their current immobilizer computer cannot program these fob keys. It requires a software update; so, I have no choice other than having the dealership program them.
Originally Posted by Silvaccordex01
how much did you have to pay your dealer to program the remotes to your car?
The dealership I purchased the car from wanted $880 to install. I was like WHAT...thats crazy. After looking at the instructions, I understood why it would cost so much. Anyway, I saved about $440. Now, on to my next project...clear bra for the bumper .
Originally Posted by NooYawkuh
Ho - lee - shit.
Well, I gotta hand it to ya. I thought it was bad from the instructions, but that's much worse.
Many thanks for the video.
I have a clunking noise coming from the cargo ceiling (I think) when going over certain bumps, the Technician is aware of it, but would not want to open up the ceiling to investigate since he had not done this for this car before. I don't blame him after watching your video, so I reported this to Acura Client Relation and was told to continue to work with the dealer's service department and they will send a Field Technician to help if necessary. I am going to discuss this with the Service Manager this week or next.
Last edited by subin; 03-28-2019 at 08:45 AM.
Reason: typo
If anything, I assume that the bolt that holds the bracket for the receiver wasn't tighten enough. Out of all the part in the install, tightening that bolt was the hardest. The amount of space I had was very little and I didn't want to pull down the headliner any further. It is medal on medal. So, if the bracket is loose, it will rattle like the way you described it. I hope this helps.
Originally Posted by subin
Many thanks for the video.
I have a clunking noise coming from the cargo ceiling (I think) when going over certain bumps, the Technician is aware of it, but would not want to open up the ceiling to investigate since he had not done this for this car before. I don't blame him after watching your video, so I reported this to Acura Client Relation and was told to continue to work with the dealer's service department and they will send a Field Technician to help if necessary. I am going to discuss this with the Service Manager this week or next.
WOW! It was quite an involved process. Appreciate you doing this and posting the detailed video for the group! THANK YOU so much for the effort! The forum is a better place with you as a member.
As much as I love my RDX, I echo other's comments that Acura should just have included this from the factory. The CR-V has it.
I have had factory remote start from FOB on my other cars since about 2013, and I have only used it a few times. So, I won't be adding this to mine.
I totally agree. I don't understand why Acura decided to do this for US models. The wiring harness is all there for this to be installed. Anyway, I live in NY and during the winter months, this is a must. Since I'm planning to keep this car and drive it to the ground (until i see the Type R models ), I wanted to have a permanent solution rather than depend on their apps
Originally Posted by JB in AZ
WOW! It was quite an involved process. Appreciate you doing this and posting the detailed video for the group! THANK YOU so much for the effort! The forum is a better place with you as a member.
As much as I love my RDX, I echo other's comments that Acura should just have included this from the factory. The CR-V has it.
I have had factory remote start from FOB on my other cars since about 2013, and I have only used it a few times. So, I won't be adding this to mine.
1. I think I'll just use my APP to remote start my RDX
2. I would NEVER let the ACURA dealer's grease monkeys do this for fear of rattles and broken clips they will not replace
If you have the skills to do this then that's awesome but Acura made this way more complicated then it needed to be and it should have come standard anyway!
I totally agree. I don't understand why Acura decided to do this for US models. The wiring harness is all there for this to be installed. Anyway, I live in NY and during the winter months, this is a must. Since I'm planning to keep this car and drive it to the ground (until i see the Type R models ), I wanted to have a permanent solution rather than depend on their apps
Besides programming the key does the dealer have to activate the module in any way? Or is programming the key simply enough?
Just did the install of the receiver for mine and it took 2.25 hours total, that includes 30 minutes stuck on the stupid pillar clip until I found a good mallet. I had all the panels off in almost an hour besides that last clip. Overall it’s really not that bad, and it’s well designed by Acura with all the panel figments. Screwing the bracket In was a pain, but interestingly enough the thing holding the headliner in up close to the beginning of the sunroof is a strong magnet, so you can pull it down and it comes un done while your working on the bracket part and gives you more room. I honestly took my time to get every clip right and not miss anything. If I had to do it again I could knock it out I’m easily 1 hour I bet you even 45 minutes. Now I just need to get the remotes programmed!!! Dealer said they want $90 for the 2 😁
Just got the fobs programmed, was $90 for both, remote start works great!! Also got the brake upgrade for the booster programming and the pedal feels perfect now!
Just got the fobs programmed, was $90 for both, remote start works great!! Also got the brake upgrade for the booster programming and the pedal feels perfect now!
Agree with second update for brake booster. Now brakes feel as they should. This make me hope that they are working on a good fix for the infotainment. First update (infotainment) provided a good fix on many, but not all issues. Now (fingers crossed) next update, although long in coming, will do for the infotainment what the 2nd update did for the brakes.