Just wondering if anyone tried Ceramic coating as DIY project?

 

 

I was going to......but started to watch these videos: https://www.ammonyc.com/beginner/ He is well known and respected in the detailing industry.....I learned a lot watching his videos.....well worth the time to watch.

 

www.r1coatings.com

Highly recommend!

 

Adams Ceramic Coating.
https://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-cer...ating-kit.html

Added it to my new 2019 RDX right away. I've had this on my Corvette for 2 years and its excellent protection to the paint and looks fantastic. I'm was used to waxing the corvette every 4-6 weeks and polishing it every 6 months. This has significantly cut down on my car maintenance.

 

My son followed the above procedure the day after I bought my Advanced model. It took 2 days but its worth it. Dirt just falls away from the finish and the paint just shines. I just purchased a new Meguiar's product Hybrid Ceramic Wax after watching a couple of videos. Looks like good product to keep the ceramic rejuvenated. I'll start to use it in the spring when I can wash my car outside again. By the way the dealer wanted $600 to do the ceramic coating, which was a Simonize product. My son had me instruct the dealer to not apply ANY product on the car or tires before deliver and only to wash the car. They were surprised the request but did only wash the car. Our cost for the best products was under $100 plus the time.

 

www.R1coatings.com

 

 

Optimum Gloss Coat is very user friendly. It's not ceramic, but worth checking out. I got over 2 years out of one application on my Accord. Probably what I am going to use on the 2019 RDX as well. Tons of spots to fix from the jokers at the dealership. Can tell they slapped a hose on a couple spots. Other than that, it is just swirled to hell...but a polish should take care of those...unless Honda paint has gotten harder in the last few years.

 

I'm also interested in some sort of ceramic coating for the RDX.
My idea is not to get a showroom finish but to simply cut down on maintenance. So thats mother reason I do not want to spend over $1K at a professional detailing shop. Any recommendations for the products (or process) and how difficult are they to apply by hand. I do not have any tools such as buffers (in case they are needed). As I mentioned, I'm fine with the way my car's paint looks and feels after I use a regular synthetic wax but as you know it needs redoing in a few months. Also I park the RDX outside and I believe the ceramic coating protects the paint better in that situation.

 

You absolutely must polish the vehicle if you are going to coat it (may need to compound then polish some areas). You MAY need to clay before polishing as well. If you don't polish, any imperfections in the paint, you will be stuck with...and the only way to remove a coating is to polish it off (or wait 2-3 years). Also, the paint must be perfectly clean (no waxes or other protectants or contamination) for the coating to bond properly. If you want to coat the vehicle but don't know how to polish or have the equipment/materials to do so, I would recommend a professional detail shop.

You are probably looking at $500+ to get a decent dual action polisher, pads, polish, products to decontaminate (clay, iron/tar remover, decon car wash solution), high quality microfiber towels, and the coating. Lots of good videos on Autogeek if you want to look into doing it yourself.

 

Thank you everyone for your replies. I finally applied Gtechniq CSL + EXO over last weekend. My new ride has almost zero swirl marks so no paint correction (compounding, polishing). Here is the process that I followed ..

Day One (outside on cloudy day morning with around 65F)
------------

Quick laundry wash (with no soap) and dry all new microfiber clothes
Pressure wash with just water - to remove all loose dirt/debris
Foam bath using CG HoneyDew car wash
Manual wash using 2 bucket method - again using CG car wash
Used Microfiber (Costco & CG) to completely dry the car
Inspected car to check any swirl marks
Tested few areas for possible iron decon using iron-x (found none)
No clay bar application needed as paint was very very smooth
No Compounding, No Polishing as paint correction was not needed

Day 2 (inside garage with outside temp in 70F )
--------
Panel wipe entire car using Gtechniq Panel wipe (you can also use IPA to clean)
Start applying CSL using supplied pad (I waited about 10-15 seconds before wipe-off using microfiber).
After CSL application, I waited for 1 hour and then started applying EXO (waited 1 to 1.5 mins before wipe-off)

Now my car looks wet shiny and amazing

 

FYI, in a pinch you can use laundry soap on your MF towels. Just make sure no fabric softener/dryer sheets in the wash or dryer and dry on low. MF detergent is best, a "free and clear" laundry soap is okay as well, but a regular soap like a tide pod is okay for a one-off. I personally use Micro-Restore and is cheap by the gallon. Only need about 1.5 oz per load. I also put white vinegar in the fabric softener dispenser and use the 2nd rinse setting to further rinse the vinegar out (I have an old style washer with the fabric softener cup that sits on top of the center agitator).

How did you inspect for swirl marks? I'd find it hard to believe there were none on Acura paint. My experience and I have owned Honda/Acura for over 20 years. Very soft paint. The only one I've had with no swirl marks was my current 2016 Accord which I got straight off the truck from the factory and I told the dealership to touch NOTHING prior to delivery.

The paint was smooth so you didn't clay? Did you test this with your bare hands or using a baggie? You have to put your hand inside a baggie to be able to feel the contamination on the surface of the paint.

I guess if you are happy with it, that's what matters, but my questions are truly things that should be considered before applying a perm/semi-perm coating.

I'm also new here and don't know your detailing background, so don't take my questions the wrong way if you have experience.

 

@wdmacura, comments well taken

I got my RDX straight out of truck, didn't allow dealer to wash or clean except removing protective plastic layers. Used ziplock bag technique to check if paint need to be clayed or not. I used defused LED light to check for swirl marks. But agree with you, no shortcuts when you do semi/perm coating. I was ready with all tools/supplies needed for compounding and polishing (GG Polisher, Meguiar's/CG Compound and Polishes, Meguiar's/CG Pads).

 

sounds like you have it all covered and have some good detailing chops!

 

I did the interior and exterior using CQuartz. After a car wash I use and reload spray. I highly recommend it.

 

Does ceramic coating protect the pain from brake dust? I have a white A-spec with 2000 km on the it, and yellow brake dust burning through the clear coat has started bothering me. I'm thinking if ceramic coating stops the clear coat damage I might do it. Any experience?

 

Are you sure its brake dust? I haven't heard of any "Yellow brake dust" before.

Anyways, consumer-grade ceramic coatings (DIY) are generally 9H hardness which should help protect car paint. I have it and its working fine so far.

 

I most likely used the wrong term. What i see on both of my white cars is probably called rail dust. It could be metal debris from rotors that penetrate in to the clear coat and rust. They can be buffed out easily.



I'll get the ceramic coating done.

 

Won't protect from chips, maybe help with minor scratches from carwash swirls and etc,