If you enable Stop/Start and don't like the small lag when starting the car again here is a simple fix.

At the stop light when the opposing traffic gets the yellow light just wiggle your steering wheel and the car will re-start even with the brakes on.

The engine will be ready for the green light now.

This works every time on my 2020 ASpec.

Cheers

 

Says this right in the manual ..

 

... or, just turn it off. I turn it and the crash mitigation off, first thing when I get in the car. Wish these were optional rather than standard. I can't stand them. Why you need Stop/Start on a 4-banger is beyond me. Sure, it'll save a minutia of gas, but if you need to replace the starter, the price difference compared to a standard starter will completely obliterate any monetary savings on fuel. I know, I know ... people generally don't keep their cars anymore to the point where their starters will fail anyways, but I do. Crash mitigation? Jesus. Honda, get this the fuck off your cars. It will literally be a deal breaker for me in the future going forward with purchasing cars. Maybe it's required for the average brain-dead Acura driver, but driving around in NYC and having to squeeze past people, it has almost caused me to get rear ended on more than one occasion. It gets turned off right away.

 

I leave crash mitigation on; I don’t take this car into the City when we go, I use the Accord. Up here in suburbia, I don’t have to drive like a cabbie. I turn A.S.S. Off.

 

I just drive.

 

Does the crash mitigation system automatically come back on each time you turn the car on and off?

I keep my cars for a long time as well. My 2007 MDX needed a new starter around 150,000 miles or so.

I turn the auto stop/start off every time as well. If Acura overbuilt the starter, then hopefully it will last at least as long as that if not longer if the auto stop/start is not used.

 

That's just crazy talk.

 

I agree with you, but I just want to point out that your RDX doesn't have a regular old starter. It's actually a heavy duty start that is designed to last through the inevitably increased number of engine starts due to the Start/Stop system.

 

It's the government insisting on these 'functions'. Same as the front of all vehicles being huge... to save the life of the .0001% of people that we hit from the front of the car.

 

Yep, all the functions reset at start-up. Wish there was a way to actually go in and hack this so it's automatically off at start-up. I'm sure no company will do it seeing as it'd be a huge liability with the way litigation works in America. You know some see-you-next-Tuesday will do this, get into an accident and sue for negligence even though they voluntarily did this. Gotta love people /sarcasm.

That's what I mean. Sure, it's designed differently to cope with the constant start/stopping over a normal starter, which is why you shouldn't do this yourself on a car without this function. What I'm saying is that all mechanical parts eventually fail. Because it's such a heavy duty unit, when it does come time to replace this thing, the price of replacement is going to be substantially more than a "regular" starter. Hopefully the fact that it's a H-D unit and I disable the function, it will last longer than I keep the car for.

Sadly true. Just like the TPMS ... gotta cater to the lowest common denominator.

 

Not sure if this has been said already.
I found that keeping the fan ON (even at the lowest setting), the Auto-stop/start does not kick in.

 

Really? I will try it.
what temp setting? That makes a difference also.

 

Not for me. It would auto stop for me with the A/C going, even on the lowest fan setting.

 

When I am in Florida, with the straight roads and very long lights, I keep A.S.S. On. Up North, I keep it turned off. Seems like a good mix to me.

 

I believe the temp needs to be either set to LO or HI.

 

I just disable it as soon as I get in the car. Or, if I forget, the first time it reminds me. At least I can do it on the RDX. On my in-laws' Caddy, you cannot disable it at all.

I might leave it on if I expect to be stopping at some long lights and if I don't want it to kick in, I feather the brake when I stop. With the button placed conveniently, I really don't see it as much of a problem at all.

 

AC Off and not in AUTO.
Just push the fan control up arrow to turn on the fan only.
Temperature setting not related, because you are manually turning on the fan and not in the AUTO mode.

 

I think when you do that, the compressor can still cycle on and off, depending on the temp setpoint. Notice the display comes on with the temp and current mode. Unless you also press the AC OFF button. I think that's the only way to run the fan without the compressor. Even when you use heat in the winter, the compressor operates to dehumidify the cabin air and keep the windows from fogging up.

Either way, AIS can still engage. The only way I know of where it won't, without disabling it, is in Sport+ mode.

 

...again...
■ Auto Idle Stop does not activate when:
• The Auto Idle Stop OFF button is pressed.
• The driver’s seat belt is not fastened.
• The engine coolant temperature is low or high.
• The transmission fluid temperature is low or high.
• The vehicle comes to a stop again before the vehicle speed reaches 3 mph (5
km/h) after the engine starts.
• Stopped on a steep incline.
• The transmission is in a position other than (D.
• The engine is started with the hood open.
u Turn off the engine. Close the hood before you restart the engine to activate
Auto Idle Stop.
• The battery charge is low.
• The internal temperature of the battery is 14°F (−10°C). or less.
• The climate control system is in use, and the outside temperature is below −4°F
(−20°C) or over 104°F (40°C).
• The climate control system is in use, and the temperature is set to the Hi or Lo.
• is ON (indicator on).
• The dynamic mode is changed to Snow or Sport+ mode.

 

That's just plain selfish, but maybe I'm still triggered by the distracted driver who hit me while I was riding home from work on my motorcycle a month ago. He wasn't paying attention and totaled my motorcycle and nearly totaled me. If his vehicle had been equipped with CMBS, I'd probably still be riding my motorcycle without a broken back.

 

I don't disagree with you, and I'm sorry for your situation. But, these systems actually create their own hazards from you being rear-ended from unexpected braking. I've had more than one instance where I could tell I had a good amount of room but it kicked in and slammed on the brakes. I've heard stories of objects blowing in front of cars that caused the system to slam on the brakes while cruising along. There have even been instances where these systems simply go haywire, slam on the brakes and then give a notice to service the system. That being said, unless you're going a low speed, this crash mitigation system isn't going to save you. I believe even Honda said anything above 25MPH and it won't save you from a crash.

 

That's one reason we have laws against following too closely. Drivers should always maintain the ACDA (Assured Clear Distance Ahead). One method of accomplishing this is by using the Two-Second Rule. Using Honda's Adaptive Cruise Control on any distance setting other than the shortest one is another. The CMBS uses the same braking system that the driver uses. A following vehicle cannot differentiate between a CMBS-initiated stop or a driver-initiated stop - from behind, it all looks the same. If you maintain an adequate following distance, you will have enough time to stop and avoid a collision whether the vehicle ahead of you applies full braking force due to a CMBS malfunction or the driver encounters an unexpected road hazard - the latter of which is orders of magnitude more common.

I've seen photos of one Accord that appeared to have been struck from the rear where the driver claimed the car braked unexpectedly causing the collision. I've heard a few drivers claim their vehicles braked unexpectedly causing near misses, but no collisions resulted. As with seat belts, air bags, anti-lock brakes, and many other safety devices, automatic emergency braking prevents far more collisions and injuries than it causes for a net positive effect.

This is why Honda calls their automatic emergency braking feature "Collision Mitigation Braking System" and not "Collision Avoidance Braking System". There are simply too many variables and unknowns to guarantee that this system will avoid a collision. IIHS testing found that the RDX's CMBS was able to avoid a collision up to 25 MPH. It was not tested at higher speeds, but that doesn't mean it's not effective at higher speeds. The vehicle should perform similarly with a 25 MPH speed differential such as when the leading vehicle is traveling 30 MPH and the following vehicle is traveling 55 MPH.

Using my situation as an example, I had slowed to 30 MPH to make a turn. The driver behind me did not see that I had slowed and was still traveling 55 MPH at the time of impact. He didn't brake until he realized he felt an impact, heard a noise, and saw a helmet sticking up from above the hood of his GMC pickup like a hood ornament. The impact instantly accelerated me to 55 MPH as he skidded to a stop. Had his vehicle been equipped with automatic emergency braking, even if it didn't avoid the impact, it would likely have mitigated it. Had I been struck at 5 MPH instead of 25 MPH, I probably wouldn't have ended up with a compression fracture, a plethora of soft tissue injuries, and a totaled motorcycle. If it had avoided the collision, the driver wouldn't have been ticketed, sued, and faced with increased insurance premiums, although he might have had to change his drawers when he got home.

This video contains a demonstration and expectation of CMBS. (Starts at 3:10)

 

According to my last defensive driving course, it's now the 3-second rule. That won't work around here. You leave 3 seconds of open road in front of you, and you'll get 6-10 cars pulling in front of you. If you back off to leave 3 seconds behind them, soon you'll be going backwards.

I can't wait to see how self-driving cars deal with NY drivers.

 

Supposedly, it will outlast the vehicle. And if you regularly turn off the start/stop system, it will probably easily outlast the vehicle for sure.

 

The service information says:

PCM counts the number of starter operations.

If the number of starter motor operations exceeds the setting limit, the auto idle stop is disabled, and the auto idle stop indicator (amber) blinks*. In this case, both starter motor and starter cut relays need to be replaced."

Somewhere, I read that this number was 100,000, but I can't find the source again. I remember being concerned at first, but then I counted the number of starts and restarts my RDX experienced during my daily commute and found it to average about 20.

100,000 operations ÷ 20 starts and restarts per day ÷ 365 days per year = 13.7 years. The majority of people never own a vehicle anywhere near that long.

 

Something else to keep in mind---the part about the starter motor and relays needing to be replaced. What they are talking about is in order to get the start/stop system active again, those items would need to be replaced. It's not like the starter will stop working because the number of start/stop cycles exceeded the limitation.

 

I would be annoyed by the constantly blinking orange light in the instrument cluster while the vehicle waits for new parts.

 

I suggest Duct Tape. Black.

 

Classy.

 

Well, this no longer worked since the past weekend. I did not change anything

 

It has to do with the set temperature. If you have it set at LO or HI (regardless of fan speed), the auto stop will not engage

 

I set mine at 70, AC off. Previously, with the fan ON manually at the lowest setting, and seat venting at #2, the auto-stop would not engage. All of a sudden, it decided to engage since the past weekend.
I know, it is computer controlled based on many variables.

 

I don’t get it. I just push the stupid button, and it turns off. Fans, temps, drive mode settings, degree of brake pressure, angle of steering wheel, it is all too complicated to follow. Push that button, and it is off. If you forget and the car shuts off, push the button.

The car is really simple. When I get in, I pull out my pre-drive checklist:

Do Walk Around outside of car
Start car
Seatbelt On
Auto Stop Off
Wait for full boot of the infotainment system
Plug in phone to USB
Wait for system to recognize
Start Carplay
Select music provider and playlist
Foot on brake
Transmission in Reverse
Release parking brake.

Try to remember where the heck I wanted to go.
Drive off



Simple. Doesn’t take more than 10 minutes.

 

LOL.. Had me laughing for a while
You're mssing the oxygen bag demonstration.

 

 

Sorry to revive an old thread. Any progress on permanently disabling these "features"? Our accord has the collision warning. It just makes a sound and flashes a light. I find that annoying enough. But braking on its own would not be acceptable. Folks around here tend to cut others off. Normally I can anticipate this and adjust accordingly. I don't need the car braking for me however. I know how to maintain proper distance. I'm one of those @ssholes that will keep 10+ car lengths distance in stop and go traffic to avoid braking.

I too rode a motorcycle and got rear ended at a stop some years back. Grandpa wasn't paying attention and didn't see me in the intersection ¿!@#?

I take driving rather seriously, enough to keep phone in air plane mode during travels.

 

I find your reasoning for wanting to disable the collision mitigation rather puzzling. My current vehicle has every safety nanny you can imagine and not once has the collision mitigation deployed. And the reason why it hasn't is because I pay attention to my surroundings while I am driving. And in the event that I happen to have a Walter Mitty moment I can take comfort in the fact that the vehicle will take over and possibly save my ass for that momentary lapse of concentration.
I own and ride a motorcycle and have been since 1972.

 

^^I find all these nannies annoying and intrusive. I understand the need because some people can't be bothered to not talk or text on the phone (handsfree or otherwise) while driving (or apply make up, eating, etc...). Bottom line, I don't want the car braking on its own when someone decides to do a lane change in front of me. These systems became more common in the last decade. Prior, we somehow managed to do with out them without much difficulty. I'd even go so far as to say I'd even prefer a manual to the AT.

Perhaps my opinion of this will change when I get older.

 

Or after you have that one moment where you make a small simple mistake.

 

I've have felt the CAS braking kick in even though I was well in control of the car. I think the sensitivity can be adjusted but I've never changed it. The default setting is probably the most sensitive.

Who knows? It could save my bacon someday. I've never rear ended anyone in my life and I don't want to break the string.