Question about the RDX battery?
05-13-2020, 11:33 PM
#81
Drifting
Just to be clear, that bubbling sound "could" be water boiling from overheating the electrodes during charging, but behind door #2 is gaseous hydrogen and oxygen from electrolysis of water. They will be happy to recombine explosively given the opportunity. All it takes is a little spark.
And unlike the game show, both doors can be open at once.
In any case, you can't replenish water in an AGM battery, so neither source of gurgling is good in this case.
And unlike the game show, both doors can be open at once.
In any case, you can't replenish water in an AGM battery, so neither source of gurgling is good in this case.
Last edited by Wander; 05-13-2020 at 11:35 PM.
05-14-2020, 12:02 AM
#82
Just to be clear, that bubbling sound "could" be water boiling from overheating the electrodes during charging, but behind door #2 is gaseous hydrogen and oxygen from electrolysis of water. They will be happy to recombine explosively given the opportunity. All it takes is a little spark.
And unlike the game show, both doors can be open at once.
In any case, you can't replenish water in an AGM battery, so neither source of gurgling is good in this case.
And unlike the game show, both doors can be open at once.
In any case, you can't replenish water in an AGM battery, so neither source of gurgling is good in this case.
05-14-2020, 01:51 AM
#83
Drifting
I don't think the amp rating is the key issue. It's the ability of the computerized electronics to regulate the charging process and prevent overcharging or overly rapid charging. Having said that, things may go wrong a lot faster if a primitive charger tries to push a whole bunch of current into a battery that isn't ready for it. Sulfated electrodes are a common reason a lead acid battery may be reluctant to accept charge. And batteries are always limited by diffusion of the ionic charge carriers. That's part of the reason there tends to be a voltage overshoot during charging; the internal electrochemistry of the battery takes time to reach uniform equilibrium.
Sealed ( gel and AGM ) batteries have different charging characteristics from "conventional" flooded lead-acid batteries. So I don't think "testing" a charger on a flooded battery will reveal very much about its capabilities with an AGM battery.
But battery technology is far outside of my professional chemistry expertise and knowledge. So I'm almost as much of a "Google Professor" as anyone else in this area.
From my limited reading, some amount of water electrolysis is normal during a lead acid battery charging cycle, but it may be managed to a limited extent by scavenging reactions within the battery cells. This is especially important in a "sealed" battery. And that's one of the reasons it's so important to regulate the charging process of a "sealed" lead-acid battery. ( Apparently the "sealed" enclosure is more correctly known as a valve-regulated enclosure; the enclosure will vent gas if the internal pressure exceeds some threshold ).
Sealed ( gel and AGM ) batteries have different charging characteristics from "conventional" flooded lead-acid batteries. So I don't think "testing" a charger on a flooded battery will reveal very much about its capabilities with an AGM battery.
But battery technology is far outside of my professional chemistry expertise and knowledge. So I'm almost as much of a "Google Professor" as anyone else in this area.
From my limited reading, some amount of water electrolysis is normal during a lead acid battery charging cycle, but it may be managed to a limited extent by scavenging reactions within the battery cells. This is especially important in a "sealed" battery. And that's one of the reasons it's so important to regulate the charging process of a "sealed" lead-acid battery. ( Apparently the "sealed" enclosure is more correctly known as a valve-regulated enclosure; the enclosure will vent gas if the internal pressure exceeds some threshold ).
05-14-2020, 04:37 AM
#84
I don't think the amp rating is the key issue. It's the ability of the computerized electronics to regulate the charging process and prevent overcharging or overly rapid charging. Having said that, things may go wrong a lot faster if a primitive charger tries to push a whole bunch of current into a battery that isn't ready for it. Sulfated electrodes are a common reason a lead acid battery may be reluctant to accept charge. And batteries are always limited by diffusion of the ionic charge carriers. That's part of the reason there tends to be a voltage overshoot during charging; the internal electrochemistry of the battery takes time to reach uniform equilibrium.
Sealed ( gel and AGM ) batteries have different charging characteristics from "conventional" flooded lead-acid batteries. So I don't think "testing" a charger on a flooded battery will reveal very much about its capabilities with an AGM battery.
But battery technology is far outside of my professional chemistry expertise and knowledge. So I'm almost as much of a "Google Professor" as anyone else in this area.
From my limited reading, some amount of water electrolysis is normal during a lead acid battery charging cycle, but it may be managed to a limited extent by scavenging reactions within the battery cells. This is especially important in a "sealed" battery. And that's one of the reasons it's so important to regulate the charging process of a "sealed" lead-acid battery. ( Apparently the "sealed" enclosure is more correctly known as a valve-regulated enclosure; the enclosure will vent gas if the internal pressure exceeds some threshold ).
Sealed ( gel and AGM ) batteries have different charging characteristics from "conventional" flooded lead-acid batteries. So I don't think "testing" a charger on a flooded battery will reveal very much about its capabilities with an AGM battery.
But battery technology is far outside of my professional chemistry expertise and knowledge. So I'm almost as much of a "Google Professor" as anyone else in this area.
From my limited reading, some amount of water electrolysis is normal during a lead acid battery charging cycle, but it may be managed to a limited extent by scavenging reactions within the battery cells. This is especially important in a "sealed" battery. And that's one of the reasons it's so important to regulate the charging process of a "sealed" lead-acid battery. ( Apparently the "sealed" enclosure is more correctly known as a valve-regulated enclosure; the enclosure will vent gas if the internal pressure exceeds some threshold ).
So I decided to give the tender another try. Upon connection, the tender said the battery was less than 80% full. I also measured the charging voltage for the first couple of minutes. The tender started around low 13.x volts, and slowly ramping up to 14.6v within the next one or two minutes. Once it hit 14.6v for a brief second, it dropped to 14.55v. I guess that's the end of the bulk phase, and start of the absorption phase (ie. battery was 80% full now). About 20-30 sec in the absorption phase, I start to hear bubbling sounds again. Since I know the water levels are okay, I let it charge for another minute or so. When the bubbling sound continued, I was going to disconnect the tender, I noticed that the tender is displaying the battery is fully charged. I re-measured the charging voltage, it was at 13.15v. So it's definitely floating. I also noticed that the bubbling sound is much much reduced -- about one faint bubble pop sound per 1-2 second instead of multiple bubble pop sounds per second.
At floating voltage, I let it continue for another 30 minute and everything seems to stay constant. I disconnected and re-measured 30 min later. The battery is reading at 12.6 volt - which is the ideal voltage.
So, I guess, given that it took less than 5 mins from connecting to 100% full (floating charge), I guess my previous attempt at charging was either overcharging or I caught it at around the time it was just getting full. If it was overcharging, did it cause the lower water level in one cell? or was it overcharging because of lower water level in one cell? hmm....
05-14-2020, 08:39 AM
#85
All of these important variables and safety factors are only reinforcing my personal choice to buy established brands for something like a battery charger. That's no longer a guarantee of excellence at a time when Chinese factories spew products by the millions and sell them to many distributors who brand them as their own, but at least the established brands have a reputation to protect -- or that's how the theory goes.
I consider Battery Tender an established brand and would trust their products above one of the countless letter scramble named products now available on Amazon, and elsewhere.
<old man rant> I remember when we made our own stuff, and I truly miss those days. </old man rant>
I consider Battery Tender an established brand and would trust their products above one of the countless letter scramble named products now available on Amazon, and elsewhere.
<old man rant> I remember when we made our own stuff, and I truly miss those days. </old man rant>
Last edited by DJA123; 05-14-2020 at 08:41 AM.
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Wander (05-14-2020)
05-14-2020, 01:28 PM
#86
Drifting
If anyone wants to really geek out, this article seems authoritative, but it is dated and I'm not sure if it applies to modern AGM batteries. AGM batteries are a type of "sealed" or "valve-regulated" lead acid battery. AGM = absorbent glass mat
One thing I learned from this article is the possibility of "thermal runaway", or uncontrolled overheating, which apparently is more of a risk for "sealed" batteries than flooded. But this article seems to concern use of lead-acid batteries in "storage farms", not specifically use of battery chargers for auto batteries.
https://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/jo...lson-0101.html
One thing I learned from this article is the possibility of "thermal runaway", or uncontrolled overheating, which apparently is more of a risk for "sealed" batteries than flooded. But this article seems to concern use of lead-acid batteries in "storage farms", not specifically use of battery chargers for auto batteries.
https://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/jo...lson-0101.html
Last edited by Wander; 05-14-2020 at 01:40 PM.
05-14-2020, 11:39 PM
#87
Battery chemistry can be seen on a "simple" level or you can get very detailed and complicated. There are many variations in lead acid batteries and each has its own charging profiles. When teaching automotive students in this area we stuck to the basics as they were not chemists nor design engineers, they just needed a good basic understanding of how things work and what would cause common problems. In simple terms batteries are generators of electricity. Rather than using mechanical power however they use chemical power in order to operate. In a "normal" lead acid batter the key chemical is the electrolyte, 2H2SO4, or sulfuric acid. The battery works by the plates absorbing this acid which causes a chemical change where the sulfur goes into the sponge lead plates leaving water behind thus weakening the electrolyte and the battery's ability to produce more electricity. When a battery is charged this process is reversed.
So, in simple terms the chemical changes will either produce an EMF (Voltage) during discharge while applying a higher voltage to the battery will force the chemical action to reverse. That said, there are various types of lead acid batteries and each has its own charging and discharging variations, such thing as voltage and amperage required to recharge it in a certain amount of time. A key consideration during discharge and recharging the battery is the rate of change (Amps and volts). Since there are variations in the details of the internal construction of the battery and the different materials used there are different charging profiles. The most common issue is when people try to charge (or discharge) the battery too quickly which results in a breakdown in the normal chemical changes. One of the common reactions is that we start getting a release of hydrogen and oxygen as they don't get time to do their normal change back into the electrolyte. Of course when this happens the battery "loses" the building blocks of water and our plates suffer shortening the life of the battery. This is also creating a risk of explosion as the hydrogen and oxygen like to combine back together, a job a fire or explosion works quite nicely at doing. As a general rule if you hear bubbling you are either charging the battery at a faster than normal rate which is exceeding the ability to deal with the volume of gas being produced or you have a defect in the battery that is preventing the normal rate of doing these chemical processes quickly enough. . Either way you are in risky waters and not helping your battery to live a full and productive life. Wikipedia has a nice article on these processes and also explains the various types of lead acid batteries.
Wikipedia battery article
So, in simple terms the chemical changes will either produce an EMF (Voltage) during discharge while applying a higher voltage to the battery will force the chemical action to reverse. That said, there are various types of lead acid batteries and each has its own charging and discharging variations, such thing as voltage and amperage required to recharge it in a certain amount of time. A key consideration during discharge and recharging the battery is the rate of change (Amps and volts). Since there are variations in the details of the internal construction of the battery and the different materials used there are different charging profiles. The most common issue is when people try to charge (or discharge) the battery too quickly which results in a breakdown in the normal chemical changes. One of the common reactions is that we start getting a release of hydrogen and oxygen as they don't get time to do their normal change back into the electrolyte. Of course when this happens the battery "loses" the building blocks of water and our plates suffer shortening the life of the battery. This is also creating a risk of explosion as the hydrogen and oxygen like to combine back together, a job a fire or explosion works quite nicely at doing. As a general rule if you hear bubbling you are either charging the battery at a faster than normal rate which is exceeding the ability to deal with the volume of gas being produced or you have a defect in the battery that is preventing the normal rate of doing these chemical processes quickly enough. . Either way you are in risky waters and not helping your battery to live a full and productive life. Wikipedia has a nice article on these processes and also explains the various types of lead acid batteries.
Wikipedia battery article
05-15-2020, 12:04 AM
#88
Battery chemistry can be seen on a "simple" level or you can get very detailed and complicated. There are many variations in lead acid batteries and each has its own charging profiles. When teaching automotive students in this area we stuck to the basics as they were not chemists nor design engineers, they just needed a good basic understanding of how things work and what would cause common problems. In simple terms batteries are generators of electricity. Rather than using mechanical power however they use chemical power in order to operate. In a "normal" lead acid batter the key chemical is the electrolyte, 2H2SO4, or sulfuric acid. The battery works by the plates absorbing this acid which causes a chemical change where the sulfur goes into the sponge lead plates leaving water behind thus weakening the electrolyte and the battery's ability to produce more electricity. When a battery is charged this process is reversed.
So, in simple terms the chemical changes will either produce an EMF (Voltage) during discharge while applying a higher voltage to the battery will force the chemical action to reverse. That said, there are various types of lead acid batteries and each has its own charging and discharging variations, such thing as voltage and amperage required to recharge it in a certain amount of time. A key consideration during discharge and recharging the battery is the rate of change (Amps and volts). Since there are variations in the details of the internal construction of the battery and the different materials used there are different charging profiles. The most common issue is when people try to charge (or discharge) the battery too quickly which results in a breakdown in the normal chemical changes. One of the common reactions is that we start getting a release of hydrogen and oxygen as they don't get time to do their normal change back into the electrolyte. Of course when this happens the battery "loses" the building blocks of water and our plates suffer shortening the life of the battery. This is also creating a risk of explosion as the hydrogen and oxygen like to combine back together, a job a fire or explosion works quite nicely at doing. As a general rule if you hear bubbling you are either charging the battery at a faster than normal rate which is exceeding the ability to deal with the volume of gas being produced or you have a defect in the battery that is preventing the normal rate of doing these chemical processes quickly enough. . Either way you are in risky waters and not helping your battery to live a full and productive life. Wikipedia has a nice article on these processes and also explains the various types of lead acid batteries.
Wikipedia battery article
So, in simple terms the chemical changes will either produce an EMF (Voltage) during discharge while applying a higher voltage to the battery will force the chemical action to reverse. That said, there are various types of lead acid batteries and each has its own charging and discharging variations, such thing as voltage and amperage required to recharge it in a certain amount of time. A key consideration during discharge and recharging the battery is the rate of change (Amps and volts). Since there are variations in the details of the internal construction of the battery and the different materials used there are different charging profiles. The most common issue is when people try to charge (or discharge) the battery too quickly which results in a breakdown in the normal chemical changes. One of the common reactions is that we start getting a release of hydrogen and oxygen as they don't get time to do their normal change back into the electrolyte. Of course when this happens the battery "loses" the building blocks of water and our plates suffer shortening the life of the battery. This is also creating a risk of explosion as the hydrogen and oxygen like to combine back together, a job a fire or explosion works quite nicely at doing. As a general rule if you hear bubbling you are either charging the battery at a faster than normal rate which is exceeding the ability to deal with the volume of gas being produced or you have a defect in the battery that is preventing the normal rate of doing these chemical processes quickly enough. . Either way you are in risky waters and not helping your battery to live a full and productive life. Wikipedia has a nice article on these processes and also explains the various types of lead acid batteries.
Wikipedia battery article
"As a general rule if you hear bubbling you are either charging the battery at a faster than normal rate which is exceeding the ability to deal with the volume of gas being produced or you have a defect in the battery that is preventing the normal rate of doing these chemical processes quickly enough. ."
How do you control the rate of charge? It seems from all the reading I have done on the internet, 14.5-14.6v is the correct voltage for charging. The other factor we can control is current. At 14.5-14.6v, the charger should be at absorption phase and current should be tampering of 4amp. (My charger is 4amp.). Would a 2 amp charger be better in this case? My battery is a 70AH. So 4amp is doesn't sound too much.
Also, how does all these charging phases work in a car when the alternator is charging the battery. I have read that the car alternator charges the battery at a much higher amp than these tenders.
05-15-2020, 01:00 AM
#89
Rate of charge is controlled by several factors: The internal resistance of the battery and the output voltage of the charger are the primary ones. Temperature and battery state of charge also play a factor. When the car is running the car's ECM controls the charge rate. (Some cars have separate voltage regulators but those are pretty much gone in modern cars as we better control the charge rate based on other factors. When we are charging the battery ourselves the control is determined by the charger. In an "old fashion" simple charger the state of the battery's current charge, which creates internal resistance, was a factor, the other factor being where we adjusted the charger. These old chargers had no fancy electronics and were crude to say the least by modern day standards. Plus, they were designed for the classic, 150 year old design standard flooded cell lead-acid battery. Today we need something better and smarter as batteries have changed a lot! Today we need to use a charger that is "programed" for the type of battery it is going to be used on. I use a Delran Battery Tender Plus that is designed for the types of batteries I have in my car, motorcycles, mower, etc. It is not a high rate charger and is more for maintaining a battery. If a vehicle is just sitting it is great as the battery is not being run down greatly and doesn't require a high rate of charge to maintain it.
As for while the vehicle is running: the ECM monitors the system voltage. One should remember that the vehicle does NOT normally run off the battery, rather it operates off the generator. Of course there are times, such as at idle, when the load of the vehicle exceeds the output of the generator so the battery helps maintain system voltage during these times. Under normal operations the ECM monitors the system voltage and will increase or decrease the field current to the generator to maintain sufficient generator output to carry the demands of the system AND charge the battery. For example, lets say that "at rest" when the engine is off we measure voltage in the system and it reads 12.6 volts. (pretty common). When we crank the engine this may drop down to say 11 volts or so as the battery pressure (voltage) is used to operated the starting motor. As soon as the engine starts the generator will be turned on and the ECM will adjust he current to the rotor in the generator to the point where it will bring system voltage up to its normal level, lets say that is 13.8 to 14.5 volts. (this programing will vary depending on that the vehicle maker sets for the type of OEM battery they installed). This voltage is higher than the at rest voltage of the battery so the generator will be causing the battery to be charged. Of course this all depends on the battery being physically in good internal condition.
There are some very good battery testers on the market that can help you keep an eye on the condition of the battery. In fact in most cases we can actually predict when a battery will likely fail based on the test readings. The old fashion battery testers just put a heavy load on the battery to see if they could maintain a certain voltage value under a load. While this test gives some insight into the load carrying abilities of the battery there are other values a battery much have, one being internal resistance as another job of he battery is to help control system voltage while the vehicle is running. A good battery has about 8 mega-Ohms of internal resistance. Years ago we did a "fast charge" test where we would apply a high amperage rate charge to the battery (Like up to sixty amps, well beyond what the normal home charges can do) and observe the voltage. If the voltage rose over 16.5 volts during the first three minutes of charging we knew the internal resistance was off and the battery had damaged plates and would fail. Now we have a special tester to check this resistance without this large rate shop charger. The tester is able to apply a certain voltage to the battery (using an AC current) and from this can evaluate the condition of the plates. The industry standard ones are very high dollar and more precise but they cost hundreds of dollars. Its the one dealers use on your new car. You can get the DIY model that works quite well for home use from Amazon or Harbor Freight for an affordable price. Look on Amazon for the "Suner Power Digital 12V Car Battery Tester" and you will see one example. There are many listed there but if you should want one make sure it will test at least the following: CCA and battery resistance. Of course they all should show voltage. Also make sure its rated for all the various battery types, including AGM, etc. Its not hard to learn to use these testers as they do most of the brain work for you! Some don't have super clear instructions but you can find all the info you need on-line. I have one I have been using for the past eight years and it has done a decent job for me. I also have an old low tech load tester but I seldom use it any more unless I have questionable results from my more modern tester.
Modern vehicles depend on a good battery with the proper internal resistance to stabilize the voltage in the system. Its not a bad idea to test the battery from time to time to insure its working properly. A great example was once a co-worker was complaining about how his car had "cheap light bulbs" as they were all suddenly blowing out. He thought the car maker had planned this so he would have to buy new bullbs after a few years. NO! I had him bring car in and we tested the battery as well as the charging system. As it turned out the battery was internally sulfated (plate damage) and that was throwing off the charging rate of the generator and causing a serious over voltage condition. This was blowing out his bulbs. Of course it was also stressing out any other electronic parts as they will be damaged by over voltage. This is why good dealers always test your battery when the car is in for service. The battery does more than "just start the car". (It actually doesn't start the car, rather it provides the power to the starting motor which then cranks the engine over at a speed that will allow the engine to run on its own. )
Good luck....
As for while the vehicle is running: the ECM monitors the system voltage. One should remember that the vehicle does NOT normally run off the battery, rather it operates off the generator. Of course there are times, such as at idle, when the load of the vehicle exceeds the output of the generator so the battery helps maintain system voltage during these times. Under normal operations the ECM monitors the system voltage and will increase or decrease the field current to the generator to maintain sufficient generator output to carry the demands of the system AND charge the battery. For example, lets say that "at rest" when the engine is off we measure voltage in the system and it reads 12.6 volts. (pretty common). When we crank the engine this may drop down to say 11 volts or so as the battery pressure (voltage) is used to operated the starting motor. As soon as the engine starts the generator will be turned on and the ECM will adjust he current to the rotor in the generator to the point where it will bring system voltage up to its normal level, lets say that is 13.8 to 14.5 volts. (this programing will vary depending on that the vehicle maker sets for the type of OEM battery they installed). This voltage is higher than the at rest voltage of the battery so the generator will be causing the battery to be charged. Of course this all depends on the battery being physically in good internal condition.
There are some very good battery testers on the market that can help you keep an eye on the condition of the battery. In fact in most cases we can actually predict when a battery will likely fail based on the test readings. The old fashion battery testers just put a heavy load on the battery to see if they could maintain a certain voltage value under a load. While this test gives some insight into the load carrying abilities of the battery there are other values a battery much have, one being internal resistance as another job of he battery is to help control system voltage while the vehicle is running. A good battery has about 8 mega-Ohms of internal resistance. Years ago we did a "fast charge" test where we would apply a high amperage rate charge to the battery (Like up to sixty amps, well beyond what the normal home charges can do) and observe the voltage. If the voltage rose over 16.5 volts during the first three minutes of charging we knew the internal resistance was off and the battery had damaged plates and would fail. Now we have a special tester to check this resistance without this large rate shop charger. The tester is able to apply a certain voltage to the battery (using an AC current) and from this can evaluate the condition of the plates. The industry standard ones are very high dollar and more precise but they cost hundreds of dollars. Its the one dealers use on your new car. You can get the DIY model that works quite well for home use from Amazon or Harbor Freight for an affordable price. Look on Amazon for the "Suner Power Digital 12V Car Battery Tester" and you will see one example. There are many listed there but if you should want one make sure it will test at least the following: CCA and battery resistance. Of course they all should show voltage. Also make sure its rated for all the various battery types, including AGM, etc. Its not hard to learn to use these testers as they do most of the brain work for you! Some don't have super clear instructions but you can find all the info you need on-line. I have one I have been using for the past eight years and it has done a decent job for me. I also have an old low tech load tester but I seldom use it any more unless I have questionable results from my more modern tester.
Modern vehicles depend on a good battery with the proper internal resistance to stabilize the voltage in the system. Its not a bad idea to test the battery from time to time to insure its working properly. A great example was once a co-worker was complaining about how his car had "cheap light bulbs" as they were all suddenly blowing out. He thought the car maker had planned this so he would have to buy new bullbs after a few years. NO! I had him bring car in and we tested the battery as well as the charging system. As it turned out the battery was internally sulfated (plate damage) and that was throwing off the charging rate of the generator and causing a serious over voltage condition. This was blowing out his bulbs. Of course it was also stressing out any other electronic parts as they will be damaged by over voltage. This is why good dealers always test your battery when the car is in for service. The battery does more than "just start the car". (It actually doesn't start the car, rather it provides the power to the starting motor which then cranks the engine over at a speed that will allow the engine to run on its own. )
Good luck....
05-23-2020, 12:15 PM
#90
Suzuka Master
What is the capacity of the battery? With all the electronics in this vehicle i fear the battery dying on me. In my 05 TL it happened a few times, so this is something that worries me.
I figured out how to turn the screen off and i shut off the lights as soon as I turn the car.
I figured out how to turn the screen off and i shut off the lights as soon as I turn the car.
I can confirm that after my car was sitting on battery tender for almost 4 weeks, the AIS started to work in about 3min of driving 😟
05-23-2020, 01:01 PM
#91
Yep, I've been using the car more regularly in the past week and have seen the same thing. The AIS starts working even before the temp gauge is showing the normal max. The battery charge state seems to be the big factor in how quickly the AIS begins operating. People have disagreed, but I still believe the car uses power when off at a rate that begins impacting AIS function after a day or two.
05-23-2020, 01:37 PM
#92
Suzuka Master
. People have disagreed, but I still believe the car uses power when off at a rate that begins impacting AIS function after a day or two.
I am glad I bought it, even without quarantine, if I go on 3 week vacation, I will plug it in.
05-23-2020, 01:38 PM
#93
I can confirm as well. This is my 3rd time doing my weekly 45 min trip. Usually the auto start stop will kick in half way or 30 min into the trip. However, this time I charged my battery before the trip. Auto start stop started 2-3 min into the trip. Prior to the trip, the car has been sitting in the garage for full 7 days. I charged the battery the night before. The voltage was measured at 12.4 volt (not completely full) prior to the start of the trip.
05-23-2020, 01:50 PM
#94
Drifting
05-23-2020, 02:50 PM
#97
Skeptic
My AIS started working again yesterday afternoon. Probably a combination of a 3-hr round trip drive I took in the morning and the warmer weather.
05-23-2020, 04:35 PM
#98
I don't have a strong opinion of AIS one way or the other. I just like to have everything working, or at least understand why something is not working. I'm pretty much over it now that I have a basic grasp of what makes it tick. On to the next thing...
05-25-2020, 11:20 PM
#99
I understand the idea of why car makers use AIS and its on a lot of new cars now. I also know that for my type of driving...rarely start and stop, mostly main highway stuff, that its useless. That said, like most, I have no use for it and normally turn it off upon starting the car. My sister has a Ford Escape with it and she has stated its her most disliked feature on her car. I hear that a lot. As for it not working when the car has set for a time, I am not surprised. I don't claim to know why but battery charge level would make sense. My car sits for weeks at a time and I never put a charger or it, even though I have the best Battery Tender in the garage. I have never needed it on this car, even after LONG sit times. Long as in weeks at a time. I haven't been checking the battery but after reading some of these posts I think I will run a test on the battery tomorrow with my battery capacity tester just to see how it reads..
05-31-2020, 04:06 PM
#100
im not familiar with the term AIS, is this referring to the auto start/stop feature where the car turns off?
Ive noticed my car doesn't work anymore, could it be that I only drive 6 miles round trip each day?
Ive noticed my car doesn't work anymore, could it be that I only drive 6 miles round trip each day?
05-31-2020, 04:18 PM
#101
6 miles round trip each day would probably not be enough to charge the battery enough for auto start stop to kick in.
You can check easily if you have a voltmeter (or multimeter). Open the hood, wait for 30 min or so**. And then measure the voltage across the battery terminals. If it's under 12.2v , auto start stop won't kick in.
**You have to wait 30 min or so, because when you open the driver open, some electronic ( I guess the car doing video on dash) is pulling down the voltage. If you measure right after popping the hood, the voltage tend to be 0.2 volt lower.
05-31-2020, 04:52 PM
#102
6 miles round trip each day would probably not be enough to charge the battery enough for auto start stop to kick in.
You can check easily if you have a voltmeter (or multimeter). Open the hood, wait for 30 min or so**. And then measure the voltage across the battery terminals. If it's under 12.2v , auto start stop won't kick in.
**You have to wait 30 min or so, because when you open the driver open, some electronic ( I guess the car doing video on dash) is pulling down the voltage. If you measure right after popping the hood, the voltage tend to be 0.2 volt lower.
You can check easily if you have a voltmeter (or multimeter). Open the hood, wait for 30 min or so**. And then measure the voltage across the battery terminals. If it's under 12.2v , auto start stop won't kick in.
**You have to wait 30 min or so, because when you open the driver open, some electronic ( I guess the car doing video on dash) is pulling down the voltage. If you measure right after popping the hood, the voltage tend to be 0.2 volt lower.
05-31-2020, 06:45 PM
#103
Based on anecdotal, but consistent observations from multiple owners -- now including you -- battery charge state is the major factor in when Auto Idle Stop begins to function. If I drive daily for at least 15-20 minutes, the AIS begins functioning within a few minutes. If the car sits unused for a day or two, it could be a half hour before it's active. I believe the latter situation is responsible for a lot of the "it stopped working" reports.
05-31-2020, 07:23 PM
#104
Based on anecdotal, but consistent observations from multiple owners -- now including you -- battery charge state is the major factor in when Auto Idle Stop begins to function. If I drive daily for at least 15-20 minutes, the AIS begins functioning within a few minutes. If the car sits unused for a day or two, it could be a half hour before it's active. I believe the latter situation is responsible for a lot of the "it stopped working" reports.
I was relieved when mine “stopped working “ i was gonna call the dealer to get it fixed but it’s such a pain in the ass feature that i was like oh well? 🤷🏽♂️
05-31-2020, 08:08 PM
#105
Suzuka Master
05-31-2020, 08:56 PM
#106
REALLY, how difficult it it to train yourself to just hit the Auto Idle Stop disable button each time you get in the car? You already put on your seat belt, (muscle memory). Check the mirrors (muscle memory), probably turn down or up the audio system (muscle memory). Plug in your smart phone for AA or Car Play, (muscle memory) Put the car in either Reverse or Drive. (muscle memory) The AIS disable button is RIGHT THERE! Check the mirrors again (muscle memory)
EDIT to add: And if you forget to push the button, do so when it shuts off the first time, you will be stopped anyway.
Get used to this feature, I doubt it is going away anytime soon on any new vehicle.
Sorry, (and I mean that!) your comment about "such a pain in the ass feature" just hit me the wrong way today. It's been a tough few months, and this weekend..... really is the pits!
Last edited by JB in AZ; 05-31-2020 at 09:04 PM.
06-01-2020, 12:07 AM
#107
Drifting
*** This feeble attempt at gallows humor should not be construed as to minimize the frustration and pain of the many Americans who are exercising their constitutionally protected right to protest in a peaceful manner. ***
Stay safe and healthy, everyone.
06-01-2020, 10:59 AM
#108
Well, if you vent here you're not likely to get shot in the ass with pepper balls.
*** This feeble attempt at gallows humor should not be construed as to minimize the frustration and pain of the many Americans who are exercising their constitutionally protected right to protest in a peaceful manner. ***
Stay safe and healthy, everyone.
*** This feeble attempt at gallows humor should not be construed as to minimize the frustration and pain of the many Americans who are exercising their constitutionally protected right to protest in a peaceful manner. ***
Stay safe and healthy, everyone.
"peaceful" is the operative word here.
06-03-2020, 07:38 PM
#109
06-11-2020, 09:31 AM
#110
Instructor
not sure if you looking for something different than can be located on the battery. my 2019 advance has 70AH 650A CCA & is group 48 size. 650CCA is higher than my 2014 RDX had, so I'd imaging it will power all the good stuff the 2019 & 2020 has
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omygod711
3G RDX (2019+)
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05-12-2020 07:02 PM