AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community

AcuraZine - Acura Enthusiast Community (https://acurazine.com/forums/)
-   3G RDX (2019+) (https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-rdx-2019-454/)
-   -   Prices Paid and Offers Accepted 2019 RDX (https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-rdx-2019-454/prices-paid-offers-accepted-2019-rdx-970333/)

skarface 07-12-2018 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by Hou-RL (Post 16262473)
98K so i was running out of time. KBB and Edmunds had it valued at $11k. I took it to Carmax and they only offered $11,700 and another online site offered $11,400 so I accepted this offer as I would have not recovered well.

Yeah, I've noticed that dealers are looking more to close deals by sweetening a trade in or giving free accessories rather than discount the vehicle. Looks like you got the best of both worlds with the $2500 discount and ~$3000 extra value on the trade in. It would be interesting to see if they move to a ~$5000 discount on the vehicle without adding money to the trade ins soon.

Fury63 07-12-2018 01:02 PM


Originally Posted by Hou-RL (Post 16262394)
Discount $2500 ( Likely includes the usual $1000, $750 military discount and any other crap they wanted to offer.)

So how liberal are they with the military discount? I am way beyond 180 days from discharge :)

MI-RDX 07-12-2018 01:05 PM


Originally Posted by Fury63 (Post 16262987)
...I am way beyond 180 days from discharge :)

Me too, like as in over 30 years. ;)


Fury63 07-12-2018 01:25 PM

Sorry I can’t keep track of the owners - did you get the discount?

Colorado Guy AF Ret. 07-12-2018 02:13 PM


Originally Posted by skarface (Post 16262890)
Yeah, I've noticed that dealers are looking more to close deals by sweetening a trade in or giving free accessories rather than discount the vehicle. Looks like you got the best of both worlds with the $2500 discount and ~$3000 extra value on the trade in. It would be interesting to see if they move to a ~$5000 discount on the vehicle without adding money to the trade ins soon.

NO, that won't happen. Case of beer on that! LOL.......NO dealer will take $5K off the top with this competitive, hot new RDX. That is right at $3K BELOW Invoice!! They are not stupid...to lose that kind of money. I've purchased
way too many vehicles, and have worked for 3 dealers in my younger days....Ain't gonna happen!! LOL!!

Again...let's don't mix up issues. I'm saying here....going on record...no dealer will take a straight $5K off the MSRP..BEFORE any other negotiations are talked about. I got right at $2K off the MSRP, before we discussed my
trade, accessories, etc. And getting that much off was mainly due to this being my 5th Acura purchase from my GM in 5 year Always doing direct negotiating with him. No sales person in between us. We've known each other for some time. He's a hands on GM.

russianDude 07-12-2018 02:48 PM

I will get 4k off in fall

Colorado Guy AF Ret. 07-12-2018 02:55 PM


Originally Posted by russianDude (Post 16263070)
I will get 4k off in fall

OK..so, when and IF that happens....show us the P.O. that shows $4K off the MSRP from the dealer...NOT Acura money...there is a difference. You can black out names, etc...deal??

I owned (3) Gen 2's....and have a great business relationship with my GM...and NEVER came close to $4K off MSRP....and no else did either. I just know that! LOL! How, because I didn't get it!!!

Proof will make me say..."I was wrong."....but, something tells me you will owe me a case of beer. Heineken please! LOL!!

russianDude 07-12-2018 03:01 PM


Originally Posted by Colorado Guy AF Ret. (Post 16263075)
OK..so, when and IF that happens....show us the P.O. that shows $4K off the MSRP from the dealer...NOT Acura money...there is a difference. You can black out names, etc...deal??

I owned (3) Gen 2's....and have a great business relationship with my GM...and NEVER came close to $4K off MSRP....and no else did either. I just know that! LOL! How, because I didn't get it!!!

Proof will make me say..."I was wrong."....but, something tells me you will owe me a case of beer. Heineken please! LOL!!

Will do. I’ve always purchased new acuras in nov/dec for around 8-9% bellow Msrp. Thats around 4k off msrp on 45k car.

Colorado Guy AF Ret. 07-12-2018 03:10 PM


Originally Posted by russianDude (Post 16263085)


Will do. I’ve always purchased new acuras in nov/dec for around 8-9% bellow Msrp. Thats around 4k off msrp on 45k car.

LOL...well, if that happens I'd say that the prices there are crazy low. OK...would have to be 9% off on a $45K MSRP. Hell, I'd take that myself!! Hope you get the one you want. I did, and am happy with this new RDX...so far.
I thought my 3.5 V6's were quick off the line...and they were!....but, this thing lays you back in the seat and rockets off the stop light. With that 10 spd. trans, 1st and 2nd gear are way LOW....and with the Sh-Awd it really
moves. More than I ever expected. Gen 1 guys would be amazed...IF they drove one.

Didn't you own a Gen 1? Have you driven the '19? What do you think?

Just in case....LOL....what's your beer of choice??

Hou-RL 07-12-2018 03:18 PM


Originally Posted by Fury63 (Post 16262987)
So how liberal are they with the military discount? I am way beyond 180 days from discharge :)

I don't know if the military discount was applied but we discussed it for only a moment. I only asked for $3K off but he said he could give me the $2500. Sorry I cant answer that question directly.

Hou-RL 07-12-2018 03:29 PM


Originally Posted by skarface (Post 16262890)
Yeah, I've noticed that dealers are looking more to close deals by sweetening a trade in or giving free accessories rather than discount the vehicle. Looks like you got the best of both worlds with the $2500 discount and ~$3000 extra value on the trade in. It would be interesting to see if they move to a ~$5000 discount on the vehicle without adding money to the trade ins soon.

Yes that appears to be the trend currently as they seem to be offering more for the trade and probably can make that money on the back end of your trade. That is why I asked for the $15K because I saw they were being generous with the trades much easier than a larger discount. I wanted to try both ends and see which stuck. I viewed it that way for myself on the $5K because I knew I had a trade I wanted to add to this transaction to rid myself of the 2014 RDX. So basically I got the money I needed to move forward on the deal. I dont think the trades will last much longer because the values on the Gen 2 RDX's will start to go down soon so they will stop taking the trades with decent amounts.

You wont see $5K on these anytime soon so dont get your hopes up. I dont think they are selling quite as well to the general public as we would like to believe. I think the Acura loyalist are buying more of them initially but the general public has not really seen them on the road and Acuras commercials dont really provide enough information to make someone want to go check out. The TV commercials are really weak advertisement. I think you will see the discount increase in Nov/Dec but depends on how well these are selling at that time.

I must say I really like it so far.

dcmod 07-12-2018 03:31 PM

I believe you bro.. Go get the $4K off ... It's just a matter of time .... Price will fall eventually

russianDude 07-12-2018 04:38 PM

Yeah, I still own 2008 rdx first gen with 170k miles. Good car. Yes, I liked 2019 rdx a lot, but I am not in a rush and would be ok with me to get it in the fall/winter if I can save 4k.
Does anyone else think its unusual to buy acura at 8% discount in fall?

r1ckster 07-12-2018 05:21 PM

4K off would be impressive. I have been trying to find a dealership in the PNW that will accept $2K below MSRP and none have been interested yet. All told me that they aren't doing discounts...

russianDude 07-12-2018 05:28 PM


Originally Posted by r1ckster (Post 16263210)
4K off would be impressive. I have been trying to find a dealership in the PNW that will accept $2K below MSRP and none have been interested yet. All told me that they aren't doing discounts...

That makes sense. Timing is not good. Are you in the rush to get a new car or can wait? If you can wait,
historically discounts will increase in late fall and early winter.

r1ckster 07-12-2018 05:30 PM

No rush. I'm gonna wait it out like you. Hopefully prices will soften. I can console myself by thinking of all the money I'm saving each month on insurance and monthly payment by driving my paid off car instead.

Madd Dog 07-12-2018 05:35 PM


Originally Posted by r1ckster (Post 16263214)
No rush. I'm gonna wait it out like you. Hopefully prices will soften. I can console myself by thinking of all the money I'm saving each month on insurance and monthly payment by driving my paid off car instead.


Me too. I drive to Florida in February, and want the car broken in, and me over the learning curve by then. So that is November December. If I get the deal I want, fine, if not, my current cars are good, and I can wait several months.



dcmod 07-12-2018 05:52 PM

Like I said before ,, its only an Acura ... Not some exotic hard to get brand name of a car ...

russianDude 07-12-2018 06:42 PM

Each approach has its pros and cons, people who buy it now get to enjoy new car sooner, others have to wait longer but likely to save $. Each has to decide whats more important given your financial situation

Hou-RL 07-12-2018 06:55 PM

I still believe there will be good deals will be in Nov/Dec and there will be good discounts. Go for the discounts as the Acura is not a limited edition vehicle and is mass produced. It isn't anything special that will require you to overpay for this vehicle. It is just a new car that will be old someday. The longer it sits on a dealers lots the more it cost the dealer. They are in business to sale cars and they will sell the cars at any price that is available. It does not matter if the car is below invoice or not, as that is irrelevant when manufacture money is available. Anything can happen and with the state of the trade war, car sales could decrease as a result. You have nothing to lose and it is your money and have other options.
FYI...Costco is also giving incentives in addition to your best deal you cut with the dealer when you use their service. It is a good deal if you are looking for a BMW. I got an email last week.
Costco BMW Incentives

Just sharing options that I am seeing while looking at new cars.

acuraada 07-12-2018 06:59 PM


Originally Posted by Madd Dog (Post 16263215)



Me too. I drive to Florida in February, and want the car broken in, and me over the learning curve by then. So that is November December. If I get the deal I want, fine, if not, my current cars are good, and I can wait several months.



best time to get a vehicle is around Nov/Dec. I am waiting until then as well.

MarineOne 07-12-2018 07:40 PM

I am in the camp that will buy in December, ('19 RDX Advance/FWD). Current market pricing on this configuration is $43,089 invoice- $45,400 MSRP. This will be my first Honda/Acura vehicle so I am not familiar with typical year end pricing strategies. I have the impression Honda/Acura does not offer cash incentives very often, if at all. The only way I can see $4K-5K discounts is through public cash rebates or unpublished factory-to-dealer incentives. Is my theory flawed?

MI-RDX 07-12-2018 07:45 PM


Originally Posted by MarineOne (Post 16263279)
I am in the camp that will buy in December,...

Living in the 'salt belt' I tend to buy in the spring/summer so the new car doesn't look like total salt encrusted crap just getting home from the dealer on the first day. :annoyed:

Edit: Speaking of which just got an email from my dealer saying mine is scheduled for production on 7-15/7-16 (White/Parchment Advance SH-AWD) and he expects to have it the week of 7/23. :boogie:

acuraada 07-12-2018 07:55 PM


Originally Posted by MarineOne (Post 16263279)
I am in the camp that will buy in December, ('19 RDX Advance/FWD). Current market pricing on this configuration is $43,089 invoice- $45,400 MSRP. This will be my first Honda/Acura vehicle so I am not familiar with typical year end pricing strategies. I have the impression Honda/Acura does not offer cash incentives very often, if at all. The only way I can see $4K-5K discounts is through public cash rebates or unpublished factory-to-dealer incentives. Is my theory flawed?


This isn't just an Acura strategy. Cars are heavily discounted in Dec/Nov to move vehicles so no carry over to next year. (have you ever wonder why a car released in 2018 is labeled 2019?) I have gotten a lease quote on a Q5 for $505, MSRP $54k equipped in Dec. BMW/Lexus are also the same. In general, July/August are also great for SUV as people often forget about AWD vehicles and are vacationing so dealers usually discount and manufacturers also provide incentives.

I've heard this directly from BMW, Audi and Lexus dealers independently.

Colorado Guy AF Ret. 07-12-2018 08:59 PM


Originally Posted by russianDude (Post 16263212)

That makes sense. Timing is not good. Are you in the rush to get a new car or can wait? If you can wait,
historically discounts will increase in late fall and early winter.

I agree there are better times of the day, month, year etc, to buy a car. I've been doing it for more years than you care to know. Again...for the haters out there...not bragging...just my life. I've now owned 37 new vehicles and 65 total.
I only have a "record" of them since one time my Dad said to me..."How many cars have you owned?" I said, I don't really know the exact number. So, shortly after I "pushed my memory button" and started a "log" of every vehicle
owned since I was 16. It's just what I like...I don't golf or smoke...expensive and bad habit....so, one of my passions is cars, trucks, and SUV's. Also an expensive habit. Got to enjoy....we only have so long to do all this fun stuff.

So, this thing of getting the new RDX for $4K or $5K as some have said, and you have said...8 to 9 % off, it can be different on a runaway hit like the '19 RDX....vs a vehicle that has been out for a couple three, four model years.
The newness, the excitement, AND the uniqueness of this ALL new RDX has taken hold.....at this time. And, it could very well hold it's selling point strongly within $2K or so...at most, off the MSRP.

I think the chances would be better a year from this Fall to be able to see MAYBE $4K off MSRP. I'm just basing this on all my years of buying and I honestly would be shocked IF someone were to walk in to an Acura dealer and end
up getting a straight up...before anything else is discussed....$4K off the MSRP this Nov/Dec. That's just me and "russianDude and I have a case of beer on this one! LOL!!

If some of you are basing a BIG discount on what the 2018's are doing now...then that is a false assumption to think the '19's will be had at big discounts this Fall. Again, in my opinion...again based on all my "buys" at different times
of the year. It's known, that a good time to buy is the last minute of the last day of the month....or the last hour of the last day in Dec. But, that doesn't mean the dealer will give you the store!! LOL! Depending on your location, and
how well the dealer has been doing with sales...OR how badly they've been doing will guide how much more you might save during those "special buying times."

Another example is buying a model year that is almost over and the newer model is on the way or maybe just arrived. My '18 RDX, A-Spec was bought when the '19's were on the way. Now, no really big changes, other than adding
the 4 cyl engine to the A-Spec options. But, the new '19's are the same. Did I get a great buy on my '18?? Oh, yes I did! LOL....but, also, part of it is because it was my 4th Acura in 5 yrs from my dealer and the GM I only make deals
with. That helps....trust me! My price vs "John Doe" walking in off the street for the first time buy...most likely will not be the same deals that I get. Dealers love repeat customers and will go out of their way in many areas of
a new purchase to keep you happy.

I guess that's my 2 cents worth....LOL...no, I guess more like my $10 worth. Sorry if so long. Cars are one of my passions and I enjoy the hunt, the buying process...with my GM....and how well I get treated. It's fun for me. And, like
some here I do NOT keep a car long. We always have 2 Acuras in the garage...so that's why 5 now in 5 yrs. Overlap. We keep them about 2 yrs.

tobey457 07-12-2018 09:16 PM

I’m seeing a lot of numbers thrown around. In my opinion $4k off is not happening any time soon, that’s a 10% discount on a car that set sales records last month. They don’t need to discount them 10% to sell them.

My guess is the absolute best we’ll see by year’s end is maybe $2500 off of msrp. $4k when the 2020’s are launching may be possible, but not holistically. And that’s a year away.

When I see internet quotes come back at $2k off I’ll start seriously shopping.

Fury63 07-12-2018 09:20 PM


Originally Posted by MI-RDX (Post 16263281)
Edit: Speaking of which just got an email from my dealer saying mine is scheduled for production on 7-15/7-16 (White/Parchment Advance SH-AWD) and he expects to have it the week of 7/23. :boogie:

I have the exact same configuration waiting for me to turn in my current lease and pick up by the end of the month!

tobey457 07-12-2018 09:26 PM

Reading this thread some more, I think a lot of people confuse discount and trade-in value... Dealers play with those numbers to make you feel good about your deal.

id like to see straight cash or finance discounts with NO trade-in. That’s where the true data comes from.

MI-RDX 07-12-2018 09:49 PM


Originally Posted by tobey457 (Post 16263336)
...I think a lot of people confuse discount and trade-in value... Dealers play with those numbers to make you feel good about your deal.

Truth to that for sure. In my case the difference between the dealer's initial 'offer' and the 'final' was $3K OTD. Base price of the RDX never changed - the entire difference was accounted for by the trade in and 'goodies' added into the deal.

Hou-RL 07-12-2018 09:51 PM


Originally Posted by tobey457 (Post 16263336)
Reading this thread some more, I think a lot of people confuse discount and trade-in value... Dealers play with those numbers to make you feel good about your deal.

id like to see straight cash or finance discounts with NO trade-in. That’s where the true data comes from.

Agree and that is why I clearly stated my transaction was not pure because I wanted to rid myself of the 2014 RDX. Trades always muck transactions up because their is money in that trade for the dealer to make on the backend. When I purchased the 2014 RDX it was a pure purchase and straight up $5K off MSRP for the Tech model.I simply emailed my request and it was accepted. Some people tend to think that they have truth when purchasing and inside knowledge but really it is still business as usual. If the dealer wants or needs to move the vehicle they will do so to earn your business if the offer is reasonable for the current market. If the dealer needs to move a car to get the numbers up they will also take less in that situation. We dont know what the dealer will need when you make your offer and that could affect what they will or wont offer.

Nostradamus 07-12-2018 09:56 PM


Originally Posted by cruiserchuck (Post 16259037)
A 2018 model is probably more reliable, but is nowhere near as nice. There seem to be a lot of 2018 models still out there, but probably not for long. If you can find one you like, you should be able to get a good deal.

Yes, i wouldn't mind getting the 2018 RDX even though it is no where nearly as nice as 2019. i might look for it , there might be some. but i don't like black color, so it has to be white or blue color. i hope i can find these colors too

Boltface 07-12-2018 10:40 PM

Saw my first '19 RDX in the wild today driving into Raleigh, NC.

Colorado Guy AF Ret. 07-13-2018 01:07 AM


Originally Posted by tobey457 (Post 16263336)
Reading this thread some more, I think a lot of people confuse discount and trade-in value... Dealers play with those numbers to make you feel good about your deal.

id like to see straight cash or finance discounts with NO trade-in. That’s where the true data comes from.

I've done it in different ways over the years. But, I learned what works best. Here it is...it's pretty simple really. And, DON'T get hung up with your trade in determining the price of the new car!!
They are 2 separate negotiations. My GM and I sit down and this is how it goes....simple, really.

1. Since he and I have a great working relationship...I often just email him and we discuss that way or then talk on phone. But, it is 2 SEPERATE negotiating conversations. Last one was all in person, and
it went like this. I had done my homework on my trade...BUT, that is the LAST issue we discuss. I had an "idea" of what I wanted to offer for the new RDX. All my "numbers" were all written down in my tablet of notes, etc.

So....we sat down in his office....I told him my offer for the new RDX. He said...I can't do that....and I was surprised and he knew something was up. I let him know that his first offer was totally unacceptable and I knew he
could do better. He looked at all his possibilities and he came up with an offer that was just right....lower selling price than I first offered!! I said...."OK....done deal."
OK...what happened??? We agreed on the price I would pay for the RDX...and I was paying cash...owned my trade and cash for the difference.....and as always we agreed I'd get 25% off any and all Accessories.

All right...Part 1 done. We set that aside and then he asked me what I needed for my trade. I told him I averaged the trade value from 3 different sources and then padded it some since it was super low miles, and still looked new
He never even had anyone look at my trade. Just to get the VIN and look at the miles. I was right there. That was it. He knows what my trades are like.

I also told him that the price I wanted for the trade was for the original wheels and tires on it, but, were currently off. I had a set of amazing older TSX A-Spec wheels on it....and I told him these are rare...and he knew them....and that
I wanted fair money for them, and if not I would take them off and put the OEM's back on. He then upped my trade value by $1,000. I was surprised....and said..."OK...done deal."

So, Part 2 was done. They were negotiated totally separate. I could have bailed on either Part 1 or Part 2. But, as in the past....I knew he and I would come to a place that was acceptable for us both. All that was left was me telling
him what Accessories I wanted so they could get it all lined up and scheduled....order what was necessary, etc.

Now, to those reading this. You have to understand....that the dealer has to make money. I have always understood that...and they will, but, more on the used car than the new one. That's pretty normal. So, I do go for the best price
I can get for my trade....and I know ahead of time what's the lowest I can go. I don't tell him that. But, I have to know.

And I have to know the max I want to pay for the new vehicle.

That's the easiest and simplest way to do a buy and trade. NOW....not all dealers will want to sit down with you and do it that way. This is why...I always say...don't bother with a salesperson from the floor. Know who the Gen. Sales Mgr. is.....and who the GM is. Look them up on their web site. Call and make an appt. Negotiating with them can be done the way I described above. IF you play the "game" with a floor sales person then it's just time lost and
the back and forths....and they want to know your trade..how much you want....how much payment you want, etc, etc. NOT the way to get the best deal.

Always be ready to walk away IF either Plan 1 or Plan 2 don't work for you. It is easier once you are established at a dealer as a past customer. But, this can be done for "first timers." Just make that appt. and sit down and
do the 2 plans with that person. Or we can call them Steps. No confusion on what you are "truly paying" for the new car....and what you are getting for your trade. Keeping them separate makes that easy.
So many of you here get all hung up on "the real true price you paid'...because of the trade etc. My way...there is NO guess work. I wrote down what we settled on for the new RDX...Step 1..COMPLETE.

I then wrote down what he said he'd give me for my trade. Step 2 done! Both amounts were crystal clear....no confusion on "actual price paid"....I had the numbers all written down in front of me.....I sat looking at them...did a little
conferencing with my wife seated next to me....then I looked at my GM and said...OK...we're happy and let's do this!!!! So, I knew exactly what the RDX cost....it was $1,979 BELOW MSRP. No add ons to that, except sales tax!
That's it. Clear and concise. I knew he would pay me...$33,000 for my trade. Clear and concise! Subtract the 2 numbers....add cost of Accessories, sales tax and the Purchase Order is done. We knew what amount to write our
check for and that was it.

This is how I've been doing deals for over 12 years now. Before that I was in another state and they had "Fleet Depts" that would sell to any John Doe off the street. Walk in...tell them what car you want...what you wanted to pay for it,
and they could instantly tell you yes or no....then you could haggle if necessary. But, normally it wasn't necessary.

Oh, and I had a copy of the Invoice sent to me...BEFORE I ever sat down with my GM. Yes, you can get it on line...fine....but, I already knew all I had to do was ask and I got it via email. With their name on it...what bank they
had it financed through...YES, dealers borrow to buy. You can see that on the Invoice. All costs to them.

I hope this helps.

skarface 07-13-2018 02:54 AM


Originally Posted by Colorado Guy AF Ret. (Post 16263385)
I've done it in different ways over the years. But, I learned what works best. Here it is...it's pretty simple really. And, DON'T get hung up with your trade in determining the price of the new car!!
They are 2 separate negotiations. My GM and I sit down and this is how it goes....simple, really.

1. Since he and I have a great working relationship...I often just email him and we discuss that way or then talk on phone. But, it is 2 SEPERATE negotiating conversations. Last one was all in person, and
it went like this. I had done my homework on my trade...BUT, that is the LAST issue we discuss. I had an "idea" of what I wanted to offer for the new RDX. All my "numbers" were all written down in my tablet of notes, etc.

So....we sat down in his office....I told him my offer for the new RDX. He said...I can't do that....and I was surprised and he knew something was up. I let him know that his first offer was totally unacceptable and I knew he
could do better. He looked at all his possibilities and he came up with an offer that was just right....lower selling price than I first offered!! I said...."OK....done deal."
OK...what happened??? We agreed on the price I would pay for the RDX...and I was paying cash...owned my trade and cash for the difference.....and as always we agreed I'd get 25% off any and all Accessories.

All right...Part 1 done. We set that aside and then he asked me what I needed for my trade. I told him I averaged the trade value from 3 different sources and then padded it some since it was super low miles, and still looked new
He never even had anyone look at my trade. Just to get the VIN and look at the miles. I was right there. That was it. He knows what my trades are like.

I also told him that the price I wanted for the trade was for the original wheels and tires on it, but, were currently off. I had a set of amazing older TSX A-Spec wheels on it....and I told him these are rare...and he knew them....and that
I wanted fair money for them, and if not I would take them off and put the OEM's back on. He then upped my trade value by $1,000. I was surprised....and said..."OK...done deal."

So, Part 2 was done. They were negotiated totally separate. I could have bailed on either Part 1 or Part 2. But, as in the past....I knew he and I would come to a place that was acceptable for us both. All that was left was me telling
him what Accessories I wanted so they could get it all lined up and scheduled....order what was necessary, etc.

Now, to those reading this. You have to understand....that the dealer has to make money. I have always understood that...and they will, but, more on the used car than the new one. That's pretty normal. So, I do go for the best price
I can get for my trade....and I know ahead of time what's the lowest I can go. I don't tell him that. But, I have to know.

And I have to know the max I want to pay for the new vehicle.

That's the easiest and simplest way to do a buy and trade. NOW....not all dealers will want to sit down with you and do it that way. This is why...I always say...don't bother with a salesperson from the floor. Know who the Gen. Sales Mgr. is.....and who the GM is. Look them up on their web site. Call and make an appt. Negotiating with them can be done the way I described above. IF you play the "game" with a floor sales person then it's just time lost and
the back and forths....and they want to know your trade..how much you want....how much payment you want, etc, etc. NOT the way to get the best deal.

Always be ready to walk away IF either Plan 1 or Plan 2 don't work for you. It is easier once you are established at a dealer as a past customer. But, this can be done for "first timers." Just make that appt. and sit down and
do the 2 plans with that person. Or we can call them Steps. No confusion on what you are "truly paying" for the new car....and what you are getting for your trade. Keeping them separate makes that easy.
So many of you here get all hung up on "the real true price you paid'...because of the trade etc. My way...there is NO guess work. I wrote down what we settled on for the new RDX...Step 1..COMPLETE.

I then wrote down what he said he'd give me for my trade. Step 2 done! Both amounts were crystal clear....no confusion on "actual price paid"....I had the numbers all written down in front of me.....I sat looking at them...did a little
conferencing with my wife seated next to me....then I looked at my GM and said...OK...we're happy and let's do this!!!! So, I knew exactly what the RDX cost....it was $1,979 BELOW MSRP. No add ons to that, except sales tax!
That's it. Clear and concise. I knew he would pay me...$33,000 for my trade. Clear and concise! Subtract the 2 numbers....add cost of Accessories, sales tax and the Purchase Order is done. We knew what amount to write our
check for and that was it.

This is how I've been doing deals for over 12 years now. Before that I was in another state and they had "Fleet Depts" that would sell to any John Doe off the street. Walk in...tell them what car you want...what you wanted to pay for it,
and they could instantly tell you yes or no....then you could haggle if necessary. But, normally it wasn't necessary.

Oh, and I had a copy of the Invoice sent to me...BEFORE I ever sat down with my GM. Yes, you can get it on line...fine....but, I already knew all I had to do was ask and I got it via email. With their name on it...what bank they
had it financed through...YES, dealers borrow to buy. You can see that on the Invoice. All costs to them.

I hope this helps.

So your discount was $2000 including the $1000 loyalty rebate and they gave you $33k for your trade in? What's the year/make/model/mileage of the trade in? Thanks!

MarineOne 07-13-2018 07:27 AM


Originally Posted by Colorado Guy AF Ret. (Post 16263385)
I've done it in different ways over the years. But, I learned what works best. Here it is...it's pretty simple really. And, DON'T get hung up with your trade in determining the price of the new car!!
They are 2 separate negotiations. My GM and I sit down and this is how it goes....simple, really.

1. Since he and I have a great working relationship...I often just email him and we discuss that way or then talk on phone. But, it is 2 SEPERATE negotiating conversations. Last one was all in person, and
it went like this. I had done my homework on my trade...BUT, that is the LAST issue we discuss. I had an "idea" of what I wanted to offer for the new RDX. All my "numbers" were all written down in my tablet of notes, etc.

So....we sat down in his office....I told him my offer for the new RDX. He said...I can't do that....and I was surprised and he knew something was up. I let him know that his first offer was totally unacceptable and I knew he
could do better. He looked at all his possibilities and he came up with an offer that was just right....lower selling price than I first offered!! I said...."OK....done deal."
OK...what happened??? We agreed on the price I would pay for the RDX...and I was paying cash...owned my trade and cash for the difference.....and as always we agreed I'd get 25% off any and all Accessories.

All right...Part 1 done. We set that aside and then he asked me what I needed for my trade. I told him I averaged the trade value from 3 different sources and then padded it some since it was super low miles, and still looked new
He never even had anyone look at my trade. Just to get the VIN and look at the miles. I was right there. That was it. He knows what my trades are like.

I also told him that the price I wanted for the trade was for the original wheels and tires on it, but, were currently off. I had a set of amazing older TSX A-Spec wheels on it....and I told him these are rare...and he knew them....and that
I wanted fair money for them, and if not I would take them off and put the OEM's back on. He then upped my trade value by $1,000. I was surprised....and said..."OK...done deal."

So, Part 2 was done. They were negotiated totally separate. I could have bailed on either Part 1 or Part 2. But, as in the past....I knew he and I would come to a place that was acceptable for us both. All that was left was me telling
him what Accessories I wanted so they could get it all lined up and scheduled....order what was necessary, etc.

Now, to those reading this. You have to understand....that the dealer has to make money. I have always understood that...and they will, but, more on the used car than the new one. That's pretty normal. So, I do go for the best price
I can get for my trade....and I know ahead of time what's the lowest I can go. I don't tell him that. But, I have to know.

And I have to know the max I want to pay for the new vehicle.

That's the easiest and simplest way to do a buy and trade. NOW....not all dealers will want to sit down with you and do it that way. This is why...I always say...don't bother with a salesperson from the floor. Know who the Gen. Sales Mgr. is.....and who the GM is. Look them up on their web site. Call and make an appt. Negotiating with them can be done the way I described above. IF you play the "game" with a floor sales person then it's just time lost and
the back and forths....and they want to know your trade..how much you want....how much payment you want, etc, etc. NOT the way to get the best deal.

Always be ready to walk away IF either Plan 1 or Plan 2 don't work for you. It is easier once you are established at a dealer as a past customer. But, this can be done for "first timers." Just make that appt. and sit down and
do the 2 plans with that person. Or we can call them Steps. No confusion on what you are "truly paying" for the new car....and what you are getting for your trade. Keeping them separate makes that easy.
So many of you here get all hung up on "the real true price you paid'...because of the trade etc. My way...there is NO guess work. I wrote down what we settled on for the new RDX...Step 1..COMPLETE.

I then wrote down what he said he'd give me for my trade. Step 2 done! Both amounts were crystal clear....no confusion on "actual price paid"....I had the numbers all written down in front of me.....I sat looking at them...did a little
conferencing with my wife seated next to me....then I looked at my GM and said...OK...we're happy and let's do this!!!! So, I knew exactly what the RDX cost....it was $1,979 BELOW MSRP. No add ons to that, except sales tax!
That's it. Clear and concise. I knew he would pay me...$33,000 for my trade. Clear and concise! Subtract the 2 numbers....add cost of Accessories, sales tax and the Purchase Order is done. We knew what amount to write our
check for and that was it.

This is how I've been doing deals for over 12 years now. Before that I was in another state and they had "Fleet Depts" that would sell to any John Doe off the street. Walk in...tell them what car you want...what you wanted to pay for it,
and they could instantly tell you yes or no....then you could haggle if necessary. But, normally it wasn't necessary.

Oh, and I had a copy of the Invoice sent to me...BEFORE I ever sat down with my GM. Yes, you can get it on line...fine....but, I already knew all I had to do was ask and I got it via email. With their name on it...what bank they
had it financed through...YES, dealers borrow to buy. You can see that on the Invoice. All costs to them.

I hope this helps.

That is the way I do it, very simple but do your own research. Get the important numbers written down.

Hou-RL 07-13-2018 08:11 AM

Colorado Guy AF Ret. https://acurazine.com/forums/images/...s/viewpost.gif you are correct about being two separate transactions. My post indicated also indicated that I asked for a discount of $3k and accepted the $2500 offer. I also negotiated the trade for $15K on my 2014 RDX. Each transaction deserves it own conversation to ensure you are satisfied with the purchase. I also only deal with the Sales Manager or GM depending on the dealer as some GM's require you to work with the sales managers. That is just the policy at some locations. Either way slow the process down and discuss only one transaction at a time and this will make it easier for you purchase. Colorado Guy is correct about going to the source as salesmen have to get permission form them anyway so why bother with someone who doesn't have power to say yes immediately.

russianDude 07-13-2018 09:59 AM

Its too complicated. I just have numbers I want after doing all the research, and keep asking, also dealing with internet sales of near by dealership. Last car I bought through lexus internet sales department which was 1.5h from my home. Saved $1500 if I went with my local dealer.

MI-RDX 07-13-2018 10:23 AM

My strategy is simple. Do my homework (cost of new vehicle, value of trade in, etc.), decide how much money I'm willing to pay in addition to my trade in. If I can get that deal I really don't care how they fudge their numbers internally to make it happen. If they want to charge me $10,000 for doc prep fees and give me an additional $10,000 for my trade I'm good with that. It's the amount of the check I have to write that matters - anything else is just smoke & mirrors, chaos & confusion, or BS.

russianDude 07-13-2018 10:51 AM

I also dont want any “relationship” with the sales guy. Its business only. The less time I spend negotiating the better it is. Its yes or no kind of negotioation for me. Dealers like it too, they dont need to waste their time playing games.

idgystinks 07-13-2018 12:31 PM

why do car dealers have computers, programs and printers from the 90's? Hell the RDX profits should provide a means to be a little more modern.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:37 PM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands