DerwoodEE

Yesterday I started installing my Eibach springs, which I opted to do myself. I've done quite a few installs in the past and figured this one wouldn't be any more difficuly. Well it turns out, I need some help.

I've got the front ones completely on. They weren't too bad other than trying to get the fork out of the bottom of the strut, it's not an easy task by yourself as it takes some muscle to force down the control arm and another set of hands to pull the fork loose. Luckily I was able to get my neighbor to help me out with this part. The rest of it I was able to do on my own.

Now it was time for the rears. I assumed they would be easier and they probably are, but I ran into a problem. There's no writeup for a 2nd gen install and it's a little different than installing them on the 1st gen since on the 2nd gen you don't need to remove the seats. The plastic liner up top near the speaker actually has little popout coverings which expose the top of the strut mount. It's a little hard to get to but if you have a swivel connector, it's pretty easy to get the nuts off.

Anyways, here's where I ran into a problem. I can't get the bottom of the strut out. I'm able to get the thrubolt on the bottom of the strut out (reinstalled in the below pic), but once that is out, I can't figure out how to get the strut up and out of it's position. Any ideas? Here's a couple pics for reference:



This photo is taken from behind the rear suspension.


If anyone lives in the Charlotte, NC area and would like to lend a helping hand, I'd greatly appreciate it.

LukeaTron

When I did my Civic I had similar problems. I suspect it's the same sort of thing. I had to disconnect one end of the leading arm to get enough movement in the hub to be able to get the old strut out and the new one in. When you put it all back together, you have to find a way to get the end of the arm back where it connects. It's a pain in the ass as you have to yank on things and put bolts in at the same time. It definitely works better with a helper.

DerwoodEE

So you disconnected the control arm ball joint from the hub to get the hub to drop down from the strut?

That just doesn't seem like it's going to do anything. I don't want to disconnect something just to have it pop out of place, not help the situation, and be a major PITA to get back to normal.

TSX-Tuner

Wow, the control arm is placed relatively low. I would not recommend removing the UCA's balljoint. From what I can tell, you should unbolt the control arm. I see two bolts holding it to the chassis. After the two bolts have been removed, it looks like you would definitely gain clearance as the spindle would be able to tip forward. The setup is very similar to my Prelude, although the UCA sits much higher up.

iTimmy

I've done a ton of suspension work in my day, I can't figure out the problem from your pictures/description. The only thing that looks greatly changed is that stamped upper control arm thing, before that was two separate "multi-links" if the problem is clearance just keep taking links out that don't have cam bolts on them out until you can snake it out or pivot the whole spindle in one direction or another so you have the clearance you need.

Again I'm not sure exactly what you are asking, just guessing based on the pictures.

DerwoodEE

I really doing think doing anything to the control arm is going to help, esspecially removing the 2 bolts on the inside of the control arm. Removing it at that point it not going to free up any pressure from forcing the strut upward. Basically I need the whole hub to come down more so that the strut can move upward and out of place.

DerwoodEE

Basically all I removed was the top strut mounts and the bottom thrubolt. At this point, the strut extends and puts too much pressure at the bottom point to be able to lift it up then out of place. I need to know what else needs to be removed in order to drop the hub further down freeing up the bottom of the strut so it can be lifted up and removed.

Pushing down on the brake/hub doesn't have a whole lot of movement as it currently sits to be able to pull the strut out.

LukeaTron

All those linking arms are what's keeping the pressure on. If you don't have enough movement you don't have a lot of choice beyond unhooking enough of them to take sufficient pressure off the hub. It's a pain in the ass but it is what it is.

iTimmy

You should be able to get a large pry bar someplace and create the extra travel, this may require an extra set of hands. If you weren't 15 hours away I'd swing by and help figure this out

DerwoodEE

I'm not going to be able to work on it until Saturday, but I guess I'll have to disconnect all of those suspension links and see if that helps. I'm just hoping they aren't a major PITA to get lined up back in place.

HeavyDuty

Ding ding ding!

I've found it easiest to get a four well-placed jackstands, a BFPB & a friend weighing at least 240lbs.

Remove the end links on the swaybar (just to get them out of your way.) IMHO, the sway bar is what will limit your travel the most.

Place the BFPB it in a common sense place like the frame rail and a good spot on the LCA then push down. Wrap the PB in a small towel if you're concerned about a minor surface scratch.

There's enough compliance in the suspension that this will allow you to lift the lower part of the assembly up & over the LCA. Then you can pivot the lower assembly enough to go down & towards the inside of the car, then remove the strut outwards from the top.

It sucks getting hung by yourself on a weekend when all you need is a foot here & there.

DerwoodEE

Thanks for the help, I'll probably try this method. Though I did remove the nut holding on the swaybar endlink, but I couldn't get the endlink to budge.

At least I have the car drivable until I get around to the rears again. Eibachs on the front, stocks on the rear, but I took it for a quick spin last night and it feels perfectly fine. I probably won't be able to attempt to do it again until Saturday.

The front looks good though so far. It's only been a day so it has to settle a little more, but it's starting to actually look like the photoshopped picture of my car in the ad above.

HeavyDuty

I *think* the endlinks should be at rest when the car's on the ground. Also, I prefer getting the whole back end in the air at once, not each corner at at time.

Oh, and take two minutes to line the pinch weld & quarter panel center top of arch with layers of masking tape, pls. The strut hat studs get reeeal close.

Can't wait to see it man, it's going to be *just right*.

LukeaTron

Definitely lift both sides together if you haven't. This will remove most of the upward pressure coming from the sway bar. If the sway bar is till putting too much pressure on the hub and the end links don't want to cooperate, you can unbolt the sway bar pivots from the frame.

If you're going to unbolt any of the arms, take out the pivot bolts, not the adjustable ones where it attaches to the body. I always grease the pivot part of bolt up real good before reisntalling them to keep the pin from seizing up in the bushing. Those are hardened steel bolts and if you snap one, it's a massive pain in the ass to get it out of the arm. Since your car is practically brand new, you shouldn't much to worry about. If the first time you take them out is when the car is 10 years old, you need to be really delicate.

I would suggest trying the heavy guy + pry method first. It can be helpful to loosen the control arm pivot bolts so the joints can pivot more easily. Just remember to load suspension up with a jack before you do the final torque down of everything.