terrible squealing brake
#41
For those experiencing noise issues; I have Power Stop Z16 Ceramic pads on sale for $59.99 for Front and Rear (the whole car). They feature a 100% non-ferrous compound and dual layer nitrile constrained shims for virtually silent operation. PM me for details.
#42
WTH happened to my garage
^ That's an idea, particularly considering the crushed Cheeto's that make up the OE rear pad material.
After a rain delay, etc, I got the new f&r pads & rotors and the TSB w/ altered pads and spring included with the rear pads.
Get yourself a new hardware kit for the pads. Even with only 30k miles, mine were really caked with burned on brake dust, necessitating a refinish with a Scotch Brite pad.
1) Below - It's my brand and a caliper slide's best friend.
Rear pad insert with bulletin # and instructions.
Look how badly the inboard pads were worn -vs- the outboards.
Round caliper pin in it's revised location. (Top)
Chamfered pin in it's new location. (Bottom) Notice the flat sides on this one where the one above is round.
Caliper bracket (torque mount) with lubed sliders, installed pads and pad spreader spring installed.
I took a zillion pics and can send them to anyone who has questions or needs clarification.
This was just a simple R&R of stock rotors and pads F&R.
I don't know whether the original pin location was a vendor error or a running production change or what, but they wanted it moved and with the short lifespan of my rear pads, I'm glad to oblige.
Some cars use a disc/drum affair on the rear with the drum part being for the e-brake. This car doesn't have that and instead mechanically actuates the caliper as an e-brake. I can only speculate that the constant use of the e-brake must allow the pads to get hung up and with the pin correction and pad spreader spring, it will allow for more even wear.
On a test drive it's just like it was when it was new. Quiet, smooth, and no steering wheel shudder and a$$ waggle on approach to a stoplight.
After a rain delay, etc, I got the new f&r pads & rotors and the TSB w/ altered pads and spring included with the rear pads.
Get yourself a new hardware kit for the pads. Even with only 30k miles, mine were really caked with burned on brake dust, necessitating a refinish with a Scotch Brite pad.
1) Below - It's my brand and a caliper slide's best friend.
Rear pad insert with bulletin # and instructions.
Look how badly the inboard pads were worn -vs- the outboards.
Round caliper pin in it's revised location. (Top)
Chamfered pin in it's new location. (Bottom) Notice the flat sides on this one where the one above is round.
Caliper bracket (torque mount) with lubed sliders, installed pads and pad spreader spring installed.
I took a zillion pics and can send them to anyone who has questions or needs clarification.
This was just a simple R&R of stock rotors and pads F&R.
I don't know whether the original pin location was a vendor error or a running production change or what, but they wanted it moved and with the short lifespan of my rear pads, I'm glad to oblige.
Some cars use a disc/drum affair on the rear with the drum part being for the e-brake. This car doesn't have that and instead mechanically actuates the caliper as an e-brake. I can only speculate that the constant use of the e-brake must allow the pads to get hung up and with the pin correction and pad spreader spring, it will allow for more even wear.
On a test drive it's just like it was when it was new. Quiet, smooth, and no steering wheel shudder and a$$ waggle on approach to a stoplight.
#43
HeavyDuty, thanks for the post. Although at this point it's like a foreign language to me, it's still fascinating to see and learn about.
I'll PM you with my email for the rest of your pics.
I'll PM you with my email for the rest of your pics.
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