rawtsx

I Still seem to be able to see marks from the letters After I've waxed it....I don't want to use a power buffer anyone know of ways to make them go away??? ScratchX??

Harper

Goo gone. Or Goofoff. Or something similar.

ScratchX works the same way as a buffer, except you use your hand instead of a buffer.

Just remember to use a paint sealant or good wax afterwards.

ceb

If it is a 2010 then the areas not covered by the letters have been exposed to the elements for several years and the paint has faded so you may always see a slight difference.

That said, Harper brought up a good point that you may still have some residue left from the glue, but you should be albe to feel that.

Part of the issue is also that the clearcoat over the exposed paint will have weathered. A good detailer (using power equipment) should be able to polish the entire area and blend the "new" finish (under the letters) with the weathered finish.

Me? I'd spring for a full detail with minor paint correction and get the whole car looking like the area under the letters.

rawtsx

Already used goo gone to get the stuff all off and it's completely smooth to the touch. There was a bit of dust on the car from my garage this AM and when the sub came up I could see the letters still there a bit...then I wiped it off and I couldn't see anything...same goes for glare...I can see them in certain positions...

ceb

Over time your finish aquires hairline scratches and swirls that slightly haze the clearcoat. Since it happens slowly over time and evenly over the car you don't notice it - until you expose an unweathered area like under the letters.

rawtsx

rawtsx

See the UR? that's what working with here.

Harper

Yeah, pretty much what ceb said. Paint around the badges has slightly discolored from age/rain/elements/etc and the paint under the badges is still factory condition. You're more than likely going to need a full detail with slight paint correction.

rawtsx

So take it to a acura dealer? I don't want somone to mess it up as I've never had a car detailed before other than on my own

savclaude

u should of use a rubber wheel that's what I used to debadge mine gotta know what ur doing to use it or you will burn that paint lol most body shop should have one

Harper

No do not take it to the dealer. Usually dealers just have the "new kid" detail your car and most of the time they just want to save money and not do the job properly, plus they'd charge an arm and a leg. I'd say it's time to invest in a random orbital buffer, pads, polishing compound, sealant/wax. For the price you pay to have a professional detail your car you can buy all the equipment you need to do it yourself + still have money left over.

There's plenty of how to videos on youtube, and there's how to's on detailing blogs etc. Check out detailedimage.com's blog, they have plenty of good info.

ceb

Sounds like you didn't read the thread. The old glue is off.

Husker Z

Every black car I have debadged looked exactly like that, regardless of age. You are going to need a good polish. I would suggest either Meguiars M101 or M201 or both, then finish off with a good sealant.

The M201 should be enough, it normally is. You just need to even the clear coat around the area.

I took the side moldings off of a GMC Z71 years back and used that 3M wheel, it was a freaking life saver at the time, but it's a bit overkill when just debadging. I burned through 2 DeWalt batteries on my drill doing it as well, but the look was great afterwards.

Good luck.

Husker Z

Edit: M105/205, sorry, typing too fast.

drivedata

he's probably just talking about playing it safe. better with a rubber than without ya know...

WiggsNuke

I always use googone followed by a good claybarring. Seems to work pretty well