I finally got around to installing the P2R pipe on my car a couple of days ago and decided to photograph the process. It was a little tricky getting my camera into good positions under the car, but if you can't figure out what's going on from the photos, you probably shouldn't be installing it yourself anyway.

Here are a few shots of the pipe before going on:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8263818350/http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8263818350/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/30954811@N02/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8262750503/http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8262750503/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/30954811@N02/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8262750421/http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8262750421/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/30954811@N02/, on Flickr


Step 1: Jack the front end of the car up and place on jackstands. ***Note, if you don't know how to complete this step, stop what you're doing and take your car to the nearest performance shop so they can do the work. ***
I also removed the passenger side front tire so I'd have more room to maneuver underneath the car.

Step 2: Spray the bolts on the backside of the catalytic converter with some WD40 or other lubricant to help with getting the nuts undone. I have them circled here. I didn't spray the two spring mounted bolts coming off of the upper pipe as you can't really get in there with the can. They came off fairly easily anyway.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8263818670/http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8263818670/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/30954811@N02/, on Flickr

Here are the two bolts connecting to the upper pipe:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8263818560/http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8263818560/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/30954811@N02/, on Flickr

Step 3:I let the lubricant sit for about 30 mins before trying to pull them off. I ended up breaking one of the bolts as it looks to have been cross threaded when installing the CTE exhaust. A breaker bar is really helpful and an air wrench is even more helpful. I also sprayed the hanger to help with removal. Once the bolts are out, it should slide out and off of the hanger fairly easily. Here are some comparison shots of the OEM pipe and P2R pipe with some weight #'s.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8262750311/http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8262750311/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/30954811@N02/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8263817940/http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8263817940/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/30954811@N02/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8262750119/http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8262750119/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/30954811@N02/, on Flickr

http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8263817646/http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8263817646/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/30954811@N02/, on Flickr

Step 4: Install the P2R pipe by reversing the last few steps. Grease the hanger pipe and slide it into the rubber hanger on the car. Rotate the pipe into approximate position. Making sure to slide the new exhaust gasket in between the P2R pipe and the exhaust pipe, slide the new bolts into place and thread the nuts on leaving them loose. You'll need to be able to move the pipe around a bit to get the two spring mounted bolts started by hand. Once all five bolts are in place and lined up, you can then tighten using your wrench. I don't know what the torque specs are.

Here is the pipe installed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8262749805/http://www.flickr.com/photos/30954811@N02/8262749805/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/30954811@N02/, on Flickr

Before putting the tire back on, start the car and let it run for a minute to check for exhaust leaks. You can also admire the cars new sound.

Step 5: Reinstall the wheel, torquing it to the correct specs and jack up the car and remove the jack stands. You can now take your car out for a drive and enjoy the added performance and sound. You will have a funky exhaust smell for a couple of hours as the new pipe heats up and burns in. It does go away fairly quickly though......

 

nice write up!

 

Do you have a sound clip? Much appreciated!

 

this is an awesome DIY

makes me want to buy the downpipe seeing how simple it is!

 

nice

 

Try this link. I have a few video's of exhaust clips before. I'm waiting on my GoPro 3 to get here and I'll film a few new clips.

http://www.youtube.com/feed/UCkeWnZBkc2hdycL-LC7VN8Q/u

 

After a week or so of driving, I definitely feel the difference in power on the butt dyno. I'm SC'd though, so someone else's results might not feel the same. The power delivery feels smoother and the VTEC transition isn't as pronounced. It's definitely louder and has a low growl to it. Sounds awesome!

 

didnt you get the RV6 downpipe?

 

Went to the dyno today and grabbed a few clips of the car with the pipe on now. Dyno didn't go as well as planned, but the exhaust sounds great at least. Filmed with a Canon 5d mk3 (built in mic) and 24-70 2.8.

 

What happen on dyno that your saying that didn't go as planned?

What's whp/tq?

 

Knock sensor was pulling timing up top and power was down. Made 215whp. Either bad gas or a bad tune. Not sure at this point.

 

215?? that's less than axion with the ecu reflash and rbc manifold !

 

The car is definitely stronger than 215 hp. It pulls really hard on the streets. I don't know if it was just bad gas or what. We could hear the pinging and watch the data log on the flash pro as it was pulling timing. As much as 3 deg in the upper rpm. Also, even though we had the VTC off, I had warning lights flashing on the dash about traction control and messages pop up on the NAV screen. Not sure if the handbrake being on and the front wheels spinning freaked the ecu out.