vtec4me21 - 2011 TSX non navi Sound System install log
02-08-2014, 06:35 PM
#1
vtec4me21 - 2011 TSX non navi Sound System install log
The install candidate 
: 2011 TSX non navi 4cyl.
Goal: To incorporate the factory HU into a SQ build. I was pretty sad listening to the factory sound system, as it is very weak. I didn't want to lose some of the factory options such as steering wheel remote, or should I say have to buy aftermarket parts as the factory installed HU options are great to work from. I also wanted to upgrade the front component set and add a subwoofer. I've had a Pioneer HU in the past that had time alignment and auto eq. via a microphone setup. That led me to the JBL MS-8 DSP.
The factory wiring in the TSX is balanced at the pre amp level, meaning the positive and negative both carry an audio signal, in balance. There is also a third cable, shielding which is used to keep noise out of the audio path. This signal was the cause of my many days of research as I didn't want to take the audio signal after it had passed through the factory amp. I wanted a clean signal to work with, the same as if using an aftermarket HU and RCA connections. The solution was a set of Monster Cable RCA's and cut off one end. This was soldered into the FL and FR pre-amp. The other end was connected to channels one and two of the MS-8 inputs.
Here's a few pictures and info on my sound system install.
The install list is:
- Factory Deck -> Solder in RCA to LF and LR at OEM pre-amp wiring harness + amp remote from wiring harness -> JBL MS-8 -> Alpine PDX-V9.
- Front stage active 2 way: Hertz ESK F165.5
- Single sub: Image Dynamics ID12 D4 V.3
- Sub. box: Ground Shaker SQ 1 12-GRAY
- Amp: Alpine PDX-V9
- rear speakers: removed.
- Stinger 4 gauge power, distro. blocks, RCA's and speaker wire.
- 14 gauge speaker wire for the sub and factory wiring for the highs / mids.
- RAAMmat package #1 with BXT II and Ensolite In the front doors and a bit on the trunk floor for now. I'll work on other spots as needed.
The positive terminal plastic housing was dremeled to make room for the 4 gauge amp. power wire. The power wire fuse was mounted not far from the amp.
The amp. power wire was ran through the firewall by using a grommet that was empty just to the right of the main wiring harness in the center of the firewall.
I used the Metra Honda Civic speaker adapters. I had to dremel the inside mounting tabs as the 6 1/2" speakers wouldn't fit without doing so. Also I had to drill the mounting bolt hole out to countersink it. Otherwise the speaker wouldn't sit flush on the bracket. I used the RAAMmat to seal up the bracket and keep it from vibrating.
The Hertz Energy shallow mount mid. fit fine without having to remove any of the factory door sheet metal.
Here's a few pictures of both front doors after being sealed. RAAMmat was used on the outer door skins at about 50% coverage along any flat areas. I also sealed the entire inner door skin with RAAMmat and a layer of Ensolite.
Alpine PDX-V9 birth sheet. Yeah, it rocks!
The ID sub. It has a good blend of SQ and SPL. I'm glad I only got one as that is enough for me!
Here's a picture of the amp. and MS-8 installed. I used a 3/4" piece of pressure treated plywood wrapped in some automotive carpet that I found at a local auto. parts store. The carpet doesn't match, but eh I'm not sitting in the trunk looking at it.
I finished the install and I'm very impressed so far. Granted the speakers may need to break in and I'm sure some fine tuning is in order with the MS-8 but here are my findings.
- Using the FL and FR pre-amp signal is possible and can be connected to the MS-8 with an RCA cable. In my case this did not introduce any noise. I used a set of Monster Cable RCA's and cut off one end. This was soldered into the FL and FR pre-amp.
- In my case I have zero noise either with or without the engine on. The only noise I can detect is a faint pop during turn on and the normal faint hiss with the volume down all the way. As you can see by the amp. picture and how everything is mounted the RCA cables are crossing the power wires. Still there is no noise present.
- During the MS-8 setup, I found that a volume of 32 from the head unit was the correct spot where the signal was not to faint and not clipping per the setup program. I used the MS-8 volume of -30 during the acoustic setup and -6 during normal listening. Volume is controlled by the head unit and is normally in the 20's range.
- An active setup is very impressive, and I can see why people just ditch the rear speakers. The rear fill would be a waste IMO. With the MS-8 it is very distinctive that the stage is now pulled in front of me, I can pick out instruments and closing my eyes I can imagine a concert in front of me.
That's it for now. Next up is mounting the MS-8 control display, remote holder and the Alpine bass knob.
: 2011 TSX non navi 4cyl.Goal: To incorporate the factory HU into a SQ build. I was pretty sad listening to the factory sound system, as it is very weak. I didn't want to lose some of the factory options such as steering wheel remote, or should I say have to buy aftermarket parts as the factory installed HU options are great to work from. I also wanted to upgrade the front component set and add a subwoofer. I've had a Pioneer HU in the past that had time alignment and auto eq. via a microphone setup. That led me to the JBL MS-8 DSP.
The factory wiring in the TSX is balanced at the pre amp level, meaning the positive and negative both carry an audio signal, in balance. There is also a third cable, shielding which is used to keep noise out of the audio path. This signal was the cause of my many days of research as I didn't want to take the audio signal after it had passed through the factory amp. I wanted a clean signal to work with, the same as if using an aftermarket HU and RCA connections. The solution was a set of Monster Cable RCA's and cut off one end. This was soldered into the FL and FR pre-amp. The other end was connected to channels one and two of the MS-8 inputs.
Here's a few pictures and info on my sound system install.
The install list is:
- Factory Deck -> Solder in RCA to LF and LR at OEM pre-amp wiring harness + amp remote from wiring harness -> JBL MS-8 -> Alpine PDX-V9.
- Front stage active 2 way: Hertz ESK F165.5
- Single sub: Image Dynamics ID12 D4 V.3
- Sub. box: Ground Shaker SQ 1 12-GRAY
- Amp: Alpine PDX-V9
- rear speakers: removed.
- Stinger 4 gauge power, distro. blocks, RCA's and speaker wire.
- 14 gauge speaker wire for the sub and factory wiring for the highs / mids.
- RAAMmat package #1 with BXT II and Ensolite In the front doors and a bit on the trunk floor for now. I'll work on other spots as needed.
The positive terminal plastic housing was dremeled to make room for the 4 gauge amp. power wire. The power wire fuse was mounted not far from the amp.
The amp. power wire was ran through the firewall by using a grommet that was empty just to the right of the main wiring harness in the center of the firewall.
I used the Metra Honda Civic speaker adapters. I had to dremel the inside mounting tabs as the 6 1/2" speakers wouldn't fit without doing so. Also I had to drill the mounting bolt hole out to countersink it. Otherwise the speaker wouldn't sit flush on the bracket. I used the RAAMmat to seal up the bracket and keep it from vibrating.
The Hertz Energy shallow mount mid. fit fine without having to remove any of the factory door sheet metal.
Here's a few pictures of both front doors after being sealed. RAAMmat was used on the outer door skins at about 50% coverage along any flat areas. I also sealed the entire inner door skin with RAAMmat and a layer of Ensolite.
Alpine PDX-V9 birth sheet. Yeah, it rocks!
The ID sub. It has a good blend of SQ and SPL. I'm glad I only got one as that is enough for me!
Here's a picture of the amp. and MS-8 installed. I used a 3/4" piece of pressure treated plywood wrapped in some automotive carpet that I found at a local auto. parts store. The carpet doesn't match, but eh I'm not sitting in the trunk looking at it.
I finished the install and I'm very impressed so far. Granted the speakers may need to break in and I'm sure some fine tuning is in order with the MS-8 but here are my findings.
- Using the FL and FR pre-amp signal is possible and can be connected to the MS-8 with an RCA cable. In my case this did not introduce any noise. I used a set of Monster Cable RCA's and cut off one end. This was soldered into the FL and FR pre-amp.
- In my case I have zero noise either with or without the engine on. The only noise I can detect is a faint pop during turn on and the normal faint hiss with the volume down all the way. As you can see by the amp. picture and how everything is mounted the RCA cables are crossing the power wires. Still there is no noise present.
- During the MS-8 setup, I found that a volume of 32 from the head unit was the correct spot where the signal was not to faint and not clipping per the setup program. I used the MS-8 volume of -30 during the acoustic setup and -6 during normal listening. Volume is controlled by the head unit and is normally in the 20's range.
- An active setup is very impressive, and I can see why people just ditch the rear speakers. The rear fill would be a waste IMO. With the MS-8 it is very distinctive that the stage is now pulled in front of me, I can pick out instruments and closing my eyes I can imagine a concert in front of me.
That's it for now. Next up is mounting the MS-8 control display, remote holder and the Alpine bass knob.
02-08-2014, 09:04 PM
#2
Good work man.. Which wires are the fr and fl wires? Teach us man lol.. So all of us going after the amp can follow ... Did you unplug the amp input all together ? Did you need to use the sub wire as well? Thanks for the write up
02-08-2014, 09:50 PM
#3
Here are the wires and colors of the wires used for connecting the FL, FR and remote turn on power lead. Note that the gray shield wires are unused and do not need to be cut from the pre-amp (B) connector.
FL + Black B14
FL - White B2
FL Shield Gray B3
FR + Green B17
FR - Red B5
FR Shield Gray B6
Remote power lead White B24 (SWD +B)
02-09-2014, 07:38 AM
#4
Okay.. It's been awhile since I read the manual.. And I was going to ask why you didn't take the tweeter wire as well.. But after looking this over I see the tweeter doesn't have a separate wire coming out of the headunit..it only gets separated after the factory amp...and I see the ground shield wires.. I wouldn't even know what to do with it lol.. Thanks for the graph.. I'm thinking about doing a new headunit.. Idk if you've been following that thread.. So idk if I will do this for sure or not..but good write up..
You going to try to fix those pops?
You going to try to fix those pops?
02-09-2014, 08:01 AM
#5
Yes, the tweeter wires are only used post amp as you said. The ground shield wires were left alone, I only used the FL + / - and FR + / - connections.
I only have a small turn on pop, and I'm not that worried about it. Speaking of pops, I forgot to add in that I used caps. inline on the + side of each tweeter post amp. This was done to help protect each tweeter in case of a signal being sent to it that it can not handle. Tweeters are very sensitive and are liable to fail if they receive a very low signal.
I bought a pair of 20uF 250V non-polarized caps:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pmpc-20-20uf-250v-precision-audio-capacitor--027-252
These are quite large, and I'm sure you can find caps smaller, but I wanted to make sure each tweeter is protected. Caps are cheap insurance against ruining a tweeter.
This is a good explanation as to how a high pass filter works.
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross.asp#hp
Here's a chart on difference cap values:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross4ohm.asp
A passive crossover used in a component set does this as well, except with a passive set you are locked in at a certain crossover point. Running an active setup you have removed the passive crossover and can run any (within the speakers ability) crossover point and slope by using the active crossover. In this case that is the MS-8.
I only have a small turn on pop, and I'm not that worried about it. Speaking of pops, I forgot to add in that I used caps. inline on the + side of each tweeter post amp. This was done to help protect each tweeter in case of a signal being sent to it that it can not handle. Tweeters are very sensitive and are liable to fail if they receive a very low signal.
I bought a pair of 20uF 250V non-polarized caps:
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pmpc-20-20uf-250v-precision-audio-capacitor--027-252
These are quite large, and I'm sure you can find caps smaller, but I wanted to make sure each tweeter is protected. Caps are cheap insurance against ruining a tweeter.
This is a good explanation as to how a high pass filter works.
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross.asp#hp
Here's a chart on difference cap values:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/cross4ohm.asp
A passive crossover used in a component set does this as well, except with a passive set you are locked in at a certain crossover point. Running an active setup you have removed the passive crossover and can run any (within the speakers ability) crossover point and slope by using the active crossover. In this case that is the MS-8.
02-09-2014, 08:51 AM
#6
Do you keep your ms8 display plugged in? Idk where you live but you may notice in the cold the display doesn't turn on.. Which will lead to the ms8 not turning on and you will get a bunch of pops.. However if you unplug it or keep it unplugged you shouldn't have this issue.. You can also plug it in after ms8 turns on and it should work..
Thank you soooo much for bring up the cap issue.. Never knew about it until you mentioned it.. I got a 22uf from RadioShack.. I tried reading the links but I don't understand it.. I just ball parked that 22 would work.. Since my speakers still aren't in I haven't hooked it up
Thank you soooo much for bring up the cap issue.. Never knew about it until you mentioned it.. I got a 22uf from RadioShack.. I tried reading the links but I don't understand it.. I just ball parked that 22 would work.. Since my speakers still aren't in I haven't hooked it up
The following 2 users liked this post by niebur3:
BlackNsexy2010 (05-25-2014),
vtec4me21 (02-09-2014)
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02-10-2014, 09:59 AM
#8
Nice writeup bro. Install looks great, looks like this will help alot of people with ms-8 type installs. What depth are those spacers (speaker adapter)? i seem to ask everyone that has done an install but never seem to get a clear answer. Whats the most i can go without hitting the door panel? i was thinking 1 inch but maybe u could enlighten me
02-10-2014, 11:34 AM
#9
Nice writeup bro. Install looks great, looks like this will help alot of people with ms-8 type installs. What depth are those spacers (speaker adapter)? i seem to ask everyone that has done an install but never seem to get a clear answer. Whats the most i can go without hitting the door panel? i was thinking 1 inch but maybe u could enlighten me
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/i-c-e...dapters-2.html
Here's the adapters I used:
http://www.scosche.com/car-audio/installation/sahc634
The mid range speakers fit without issue for the most part. I did have to spin them a bit so the basket wouldn't hit against the bumps in the irregular sized speaker opening of the front doors.
You're about right on the money with the 1" depth of the speaker. Here's the dimensions of the mid range speaker I used.
So the bottom mount depth of the speaker is 1.7" minus the .75" of the speaker adapter is a bit less than an inch.
The basket width of the speaker is 5.47", but I didn't measure the width of the factory speaker opening. All I know is the speaker fits!
The following users liked this post:
D4nnyD (02-11-2014)
02-15-2014, 04:11 PM
#11
Do you keep your ms8 display plugged in? Idk where you live but you may notice in the cold the display doesn't turn on.. Which will lead to the ms8 not turning on and you will get a bunch of pops.. However if you unplug it or keep it unplugged you shouldn't have this issue.. You can also plug it in after ms8 turns on and it should work..
Thank you soooo much for bring up the cap issue.. Never knew about it until you mentioned it.. I got a 22uf from RadioShack.. I tried reading the links but I don't understand it.. I just ball parked that 22 would work.. Since my speakers still aren't in I haven't hooked it up
Thank you soooo much for bring up the cap issue.. Never knew about it until you mentioned it.. I got a 22uf from RadioShack.. I tried reading the links but I don't understand it.. I just ball parked that 22 would work.. Since my speakers still aren't in I haven't hooked it up
02-15-2014, 05:09 PM
#12
This week on vtec4me21 tears apart his TSX 
. Episode brought to you by Dremel. Seriously, get one if you need to do any kind of modifications. I wouldn't of been able to complete this project without it. The cutting wheel and metal cutting attachment were used. The panel removal tools would also be a pick for my must have for any car stereo install.
Projects:
- Alpine remote bass RUX-KNOB install.
- Alpine remote bass RUX-KNOB wire run.
- JBL MS-8 display wire run.
- Convert music files from .flac to .wma files so the factory HU can read off the thumb drive.
- Retune of the MS-8 after re-setting amp gains on all channels after letting speakers break in a bit.
When I bought the Alpine PDX-V9 the description said it shipped with the RUX-KNOB. Nope, it didn't.
But that's okay because I picked up a 64GB thumb drive . This thumb drive is very small and has a metal housing. I like it and it looks like it will be durable.
I also snagged all the Five Finger Death Punch CD's. . BTW: If you buy the deluxe edition it comes with a code for a free t-shirt + shipping and handling.
Anyways, on to what was done during this install.
I found out that the TSX factory HU won't play .flac files from a USB thumb drive. Researching a bit it looks like .wma files even though compressed can be ripped at a high bit rate and shouldn't affect the quality of the music. So, I converted my .flac files to .wma at 320 Kbps / 44 kHz. I did a side to side test of the sound from my .flac CD's to the .wma compressed played from the thumb drive, and I didn't notice any degradation of the sound like with the 64 Kbps mp3 rips I remember back in the day.
Here's the Alpine bass knob. You can remove the knob with a large flat head screwdriver and carefully pry it off. I also removed the washer and nut from the knob shaft.
Two screws hold on the mounting brackets. I took off the screws as they wouldn't clear the bracket that holds the bass knob assembly in place.
I didn't include a picture of the 4 gauge power wire ran on the drivers side in my original install posts, so maybe these pictures will help someone. It's hard to see in this picture but I've zip tied the Alpine bass knob wiring and MS-8 display wiring.
The Alpine bass knob wiring and MS-8 display wiring zip tied under the rear seat.
The Alpine bass knob installed in the dash panel. The first picture shows what the assembly looks like from the back side of the dash panel. Next to the VSA switch to the left of the steering wheel are two blanks. I chose to use one of these blanks for the bass knob. The knob housing won't fit without having to Dremel the inside of the blank and the dash panel. The blank has two plastic clips and a bunch of plastic support material. I drilled a hole in the blank so the bass knob shaft could pass through. I then removed all the support material and used RTV silicone on the bass knob housing.
After letting the silicone set up overnight I then worked on the dash panel opening where the blank and bass knob housing will sit. The knob assembly wouldn't fit without having to Dremel a bit of plastic material off the left and right sides of the housing.
Here's the final picture of the bass knob and MS-8 wiring installed.
I adjusted the gains on the amp for the mids and sub. channels. Next I did a re-tune of the MS-8 and it was a night and day difference. I didn't want to work the speakers too much when breaking them in. If you believe the speakers require it or not is another topic all together. Now with the bass knob turned down I get just a bit of bass from the sub. Turn it up and it bumps!
So you might of noticed in the pictures how close these wires were run to the main 4 gauge power wire. Did that introduce any noise? - No. Do I still have a bit of hiss as is the normal noise floor? - Yes. I don't care about that small amount of hiss though as it can only be heard with the engine off and in a totally quiet environment. I've always had a bit of hiss with an aftermarket amplified system, so this is nothing new.
. Episode brought to you by Dremel. Seriously, get one if you need to do any kind of modifications. I wouldn't of been able to complete this project without it. The cutting wheel and metal cutting attachment were used. The panel removal tools would also be a pick for my must have for any car stereo install.
Projects:
- Alpine remote bass RUX-KNOB install.
- Alpine remote bass RUX-KNOB wire run.
- JBL MS-8 display wire run.
- Convert music files from .flac to .wma files so the factory HU can read off the thumb drive.
- Retune of the MS-8 after re-setting amp gains on all channels after letting speakers break in a bit.
When I bought the Alpine PDX-V9 the description said it shipped with the RUX-KNOB. Nope, it didn't.
But that's okay because I picked up a 64GB thumb drive . This thumb drive is very small and has a metal housing. I like it and it looks like it will be durable.
I also snagged all the Five Finger Death Punch CD's. . BTW: If you buy the deluxe edition it comes with a code for a free t-shirt + shipping and handling.
Anyways, on to what was done during this install.
I found out that the TSX factory HU won't play .flac files from a USB thumb drive. Researching a bit it looks like .wma files even though compressed can be ripped at a high bit rate and shouldn't affect the quality of the music. So, I converted my .flac files to .wma at 320 Kbps / 44 kHz. I did a side to side test of the sound from my .flac CD's to the .wma compressed played from the thumb drive, and I didn't notice any degradation of the sound like with the 64 Kbps mp3 rips I remember back in the day.
Here's the Alpine bass knob. You can remove the knob with a large flat head screwdriver and carefully pry it off. I also removed the washer and nut from the knob shaft.
Two screws hold on the mounting brackets. I took off the screws as they wouldn't clear the bracket that holds the bass knob assembly in place.
I didn't include a picture of the 4 gauge power wire ran on the drivers side in my original install posts, so maybe these pictures will help someone. It's hard to see in this picture but I've zip tied the Alpine bass knob wiring and MS-8 display wiring.
The Alpine bass knob wiring and MS-8 display wiring zip tied under the rear seat.
The Alpine bass knob installed in the dash panel. The first picture shows what the assembly looks like from the back side of the dash panel. Next to the VSA switch to the left of the steering wheel are two blanks. I chose to use one of these blanks for the bass knob. The knob housing won't fit without having to Dremel the inside of the blank and the dash panel. The blank has two plastic clips and a bunch of plastic support material. I drilled a hole in the blank so the bass knob shaft could pass through. I then removed all the support material and used RTV silicone on the bass knob housing.
After letting the silicone set up overnight I then worked on the dash panel opening where the blank and bass knob housing will sit. The knob assembly wouldn't fit without having to Dremel a bit of plastic material off the left and right sides of the housing.
Here's the final picture of the bass knob and MS-8 wiring installed
.I adjusted the gains on the amp for the mids and sub. channels. Next I did a re-tune of the MS-8 and it was a night and day difference. I didn't want to work the speakers too much when breaking them in. If you believe the speakers require it or not is another topic all together. Now with the bass knob turned down I get just a bit of bass from the sub. Turn it up and it bumps!
So you might of noticed in the pictures how close these wires were run to the main 4 gauge power wire. Did that introduce any noise? - No. Do I still have a bit of hiss as is the normal noise floor? - Yes. I don't care about that small amount of hiss though as it can only be heard with the engine off and in a totally quiet environment. I've always had a bit of hiss with an aftermarket amplified system, so this is nothing new.
05-25-2014, 12:28 AM
#13
Very impressive installation. It looks like you connected the MS8 before the stock amplifier. I have read on other posts that the MS8 needs to be connected on the output of the stock amplifier. If the MS8 is connected prior to the stock amplifier can you still control the volume on the head unit? Also, do you retain Bluetooth capability by bypassing the factory amplifier?
05-25-2014, 11:07 AM
#14
I just noticed that you can adjust the volume using the head unit if you add the MS8 at the preamp level.
My main question is can you still control the Bluetooth and use the steering wheel volume and mode controls if you connect the MS8 at the preamp level?
I also know that this installation was done on a non-navi TSX. I have the ELS or technology package. Would the installation for the MS8 at the preamp level also apply to the technology package? Or, does the MS8 have to be connected after the stock amplifier on the tech package?
My main question is can you still control the Bluetooth and use the steering wheel volume and mode controls if you connect the MS8 at the preamp level?
I also know that this installation was done on a non-navi TSX. I have the ELS or technology package. Would the installation for the MS8 at the preamp level also apply to the technology package? Or, does the MS8 have to be connected after the stock amplifier on the tech package?
05-25-2014, 09:01 PM
#15
Do we need to use rcas .. I have my ms8 after the amp and I have noise.. I want to go preamp.. Is using rcas a must or can I just use the speaker wire..
Hoku I don't think it makes a difference if U go before or after for u in relation to els.. But..go before u can ... Less wires to cut up.. Well for u I guess it's just two.. I had tweeters too so I could of saved 6 wires
Hoku I don't think it makes a difference if U go before or after for u in relation to els.. But..go before u can ... Less wires to cut up.. Well for u I guess it's just two.. I had tweeters too so I could of saved 6 wires
05-26-2014, 12:10 AM
#16
Very impressive installation. It looks like you connected the MS8 before the stock amplifier. I have read on other posts that the MS8 needs to be connected on the output of the stock amplifier. If the MS8 is connected prior to the stock amplifier can you still control the volume on the head unit? Also, do you retain Bluetooth capability by bypassing the factory amplifier?
I'm not sure if this setup will work with the ELS navi system, but I don't see why not. Just use the front left and right channel signals to the MS-8 via an RCA soldered to the line level as mentioned in my install posts.
BTW - This system has been solid since the installation without any issues whatsoever. The small turn on pop has been resolved by going through the MS-8 setup again after the speakers were broken in. I assume the levels are bit lower now as the speakers are good to go.
In summary, any of the factory features from the head unit will function as if it was the original setup when using these installation instructions.
Last edited by vtec4me21; 05-26-2014 at 12:14 AM.
05-26-2014, 12:16 AM
#17
Do we need to use rcas .. I have my ms8 after the amp and I have noise.. I want to go preamp.. Is using rcas a must or can I just use the speaker wire..
Hoku I don't think it makes a difference if U go before or after for u in relation to els.. But..go before u can ... Less wires to cut up.. Well for u I guess it's just two.. I had tweeters too so I could of saved 6 wires
Hoku I don't think it makes a difference if U go before or after for u in relation to els.. But..go before u can ... Less wires to cut up.. Well for u I guess it's just two.. I had tweeters too so I could of saved 6 wires
The following users liked this post:
BlackNsexy2010 (05-26-2014)
05-26-2014, 08:50 AM
#19
Originally I was planning on making my own RCA cable to keep the shielding. But in the end I skipped that idea and just soldered in the signal wires and not the shielding.
05-26-2014, 09:07 AM
#20
Okay just so I understand.. Little slow sorry lol.. You unplugged the connection going into the factory amp.. Basically leaving the factory amp useless.. Then u cut the fl and fr speaker somewhere between the head unit and the connector that went into the amp... Then you took the side coming from the headunit and attached monster rcas to the pos and neg portions of the fl and fr and left the third shielded wire of each alone.. You also cut the white remote wire. Which you then ran to your ms8. Aside from these 5 wires nothing else was cut.. Am I correct..
I had read your post about acc remote and headunit control wires and was curious if you really needed to do all that.. Or if you were able to skip that part... I really hope your answer is yes to above lol..
I guess originally I didn't understand what noise meant.. But now I know it and I've got noise.. So I'm trying to get rid of it..hopefully preamp connection helps
I had read your post about acc remote and headunit control wires and was curious if you really needed to do all that.. Or if you were able to skip that part... I really hope your answer is yes to above lol..
I guess originally I didn't understand what noise meant.. But now I know it and I've got noise.. So I'm trying to get rid of it..hopefully preamp connection helps
05-26-2014, 09:12 AM
#21
Okay just so I understand.. Little slow sorry lol.. You unplugged the connection going into the factory amp.. Basically leaving the factory amp useless.. Then u cut the fl and fr speaker somewhere between the head unit and the connector that went into the amp... Then you took the side coming from the headunit and attached monster rcas to the pos and neg portions of the fl and fr and left the third shielded wire of each alone.. You also cut the white remote wire. Which you then ran to your ms8. Aside from these 5 wires nothing else was cut.. Am I correct..
I had read your post about acc remote and headunit control wires and was curious if you really needed to do all that.. Or if you were able to skip that part... I really hope your answer is yes to above lol..
I guess originally I didn't understand what noise meant.. But now I know it and I've got noise.. So I'm trying to get rid of it..hopefully preamp connection helps
I had read your post about acc remote and headunit control wires and was curious if you really needed to do all that.. Or if you were able to skip that part... I really hope your answer is yes to above lol..
I guess originally I didn't understand what noise meant.. But now I know it and I've got noise.. So I'm trying to get rid of it..hopefully preamp connection helps
Yes, I unplugged both the amp input and output as the factory amp is completely bypassed. The front channels are full range meaning they have all the audio frequency range so you don't need to hook up the sub. pre-amp channels. Also per the MS-8 installation this matches up the same as installing with an aftermarket HU as the MS-8 only requires the FL and FR RCA channels.
Here are the wires and colors of the wires used for connecting the FL, FR and remote turn on power lead. Note that the gray shield wires are unused and do not need to be cut from the pre-amp (B) connector.
FL + Black B14
FL - White B2
FL Shield Gray B3
FR + Green B17
FR - Red B5
FR Shield Gray B6
Remote power lead White B24 (SWD +B)
Last edited by vtec4me21; 05-26-2014 at 09:14 AM.
12-02-2014, 08:12 AM
#24
.TSX audio install by vtec4me21 | AcuraZine.com
The following users liked this post:
viind (12-02-2014)
12-02-2014, 10:28 PM
#25
Thank you kind sir.
I just picked up the MS-8 earlier today, will start ordering rest of the wiring and then hopefully next week start the install.
Vtec, do you have pictures of the soldering you did on the wires?
Thanks,
Vin
I just picked up the MS-8 earlier today, will start ordering rest of the wiring and then hopefully next week start the install.
Vtec, do you have pictures of the soldering you did on the wires?
Thanks,
Vin
Here's a link to the install pictures. I can't edit the original posts to show the correct image URL's .
TSX audio install by vtec4me21 | AcuraZine.com
.TSX audio install by vtec4me21 | AcuraZine.com
12-03-2014, 09:06 PM
#26
Yo man.. Go get yourself some positaps.. You can get them off amazon... Not exactly cheap..But with these you don't need to solder .. I wish I knew about these before I put my ms8 in
12-04-2014, 12:32 AM
#27
Hi, how many of these do I need and which gauge size? never used this before but it looks simple from what the picture showing on amazon. I'm assuming I just need 6 to tap the FL & FR wires to run them down to trunk?
12-04-2014, 09:12 AM
#28
No, I don't have any pictures of the soldering. Nothing special about the soldering, although the FL / FR wires are a very small gauge so it was tough...and I was curled up in the trunk doing the soldering lol. I did use heat shrink tubing on each soldered connection.
12-04-2014, 10:30 PM
#29
Hi Vtec, do you just run just a single left & right RCA to head unit and then plug that into the MS-8? Then you just hook up front, rear, & sub rca cable from MS-8 to the 5 channel amp? Also, when you refer to the shield line for FL & FR does it need to hook up to anything or you just need to solder the - & + wires?
Thanks,
Vin
Thanks,
Vin
12-05-2014, 07:59 AM
#30
Hi Vtec, do you just run just a single left & right RCA to head unit and then plug that into the MS-8? Then you just hook up front, rear, & sub rca cable from MS-8 to the 5 channel amp? Also, when you refer to the shield line for FL & FR does it need to hook up to anything or you just need to solder the - & + wires?
Thanks,
Vin
Thanks,
Vin
- Using the FL and FR pre-amp signal is possible and can be connected to the MS-8 with an RCA cable. In my case this did not introduce any noise. I used a set of Monster Cable RCA's and cut off one end. This was soldered into the FL and FR pre-amp.
Other posts have the wire color and pin out when you're dealing with the connectors where the factory amp input and output are connected. I did not make any of the pre amp or post amp connections at the factory head unit location.
Another route you could go is an aftermarket head unit which already has RCA connections. They make aftermarket bezels now for this year range of TSX that have a double DIN opening for a head unit. That option wasn't available when I did this project. I would go this route as incorporating an MS-8 with that setup is as easy as running a set of RCA cables from the head unit to the MS-8. No cutting and splicing into the factory stereo wiring. Plus you get all the added features of the aftermarket head unit. You would have to add a steering wheel remote adapter and some other wiring harness adapters, but there is information out there on doing that.
12-05-2014, 03:21 PM
#31
I wanted to keep the stock head unit since I'm able to play music off of my USB flash drive or my iphone which is all that I need and do not want to hook up my double din since I do not want to catch thieves attention.
Regarding the OEM pre-amp that you solder the wiring, where is this amp located? I just recently got the car and have not touch anything besides syncing my phone for hands free.
Regarding the OEM pre-amp that you solder the wiring, where is this amp located? I just recently got the car and have not touch anything besides syncing my phone for hands free.
No, the factory head unit has no RCA connectors. Refer to the previous posts such as post #1 in this thread.
- Using the FL and FR pre-amp signal is possible and can be connected to the MS-8 with an RCA cable. In my case this did not introduce any noise. I used a set of Monster Cable RCA's and cut off one end. This was soldered into the FL and FR pre-amp.
Other posts have the wire color and pin out when you're dealing with the connectors where the factory amp input and output are connected. I did not make any of the pre amp or post amp connections at the factory head unit location.
Another route you could go is an aftermarket head unit which already has RCA connections. They make aftermarket bezels now for this year range of TSX that have a double DIN opening for a head unit. That option wasn't available when I did this project. I would go this route as incorporating an MS-8 with that setup is as easy as running a set of RCA cables from the head unit to the MS-8. No cutting and splicing into the factory stereo wiring. Plus you get all the added features of the aftermarket head unit. You would have to add a steering wheel remote adapter and some other wiring harness adapters, but there is information out there on doing that.
- Using the FL and FR pre-amp signal is possible and can be connected to the MS-8 with an RCA cable. In my case this did not introduce any noise. I used a set of Monster Cable RCA's and cut off one end. This was soldered into the FL and FR pre-amp.
Other posts have the wire color and pin out when you're dealing with the connectors where the factory amp input and output are connected. I did not make any of the pre amp or post amp connections at the factory head unit location.
Another route you could go is an aftermarket head unit which already has RCA connections. They make aftermarket bezels now for this year range of TSX that have a double DIN opening for a head unit. That option wasn't available when I did this project. I would go this route as incorporating an MS-8 with that setup is as easy as running a set of RCA cables from the head unit to the MS-8. No cutting and splicing into the factory stereo wiring. Plus you get all the added features of the aftermarket head unit. You would have to add a steering wheel remote adapter and some other wiring harness adapters, but there is information out there on doing that.
12-07-2014, 10:09 AM
#32
The wires are really thin.. I think it's like 18-22... When I originally installed my ms8 i crimped them... But soldering or positaps are def the way to go... Like vtec said.. It's a pain sitting in there trying to attach those wires..limited space and the wires are small
Factory amp is on the passenger side in the trunk .. Just pull off the panels and you will see it.. Small silver box.
What's your full game plan? Also maybe make a new thread detailing your goals ..it'll help other searching for similar things in the future
Factory amp is on the passenger side in the trunk .. Just pull off the panels and you will see it.. Small silver box.
What's your full game plan? Also maybe make a new thread detailing your goals ..it'll help other searching for similar things in the future
12-07-2014, 01:20 PM
#33
I'll give the Posi-Tap a try on the install that me and my friend will work on.
setup will be:
- stock head unit (non navi)
- Audison LRX 5.1K (5 channel)
- JBL MS-8 DSP
- Focal K2P 2 way front (6.5")
- Focal 690 CVX rear (6 x 9)
- 2 10" JL W1v3 subs that'll be in customized fiberglass (was gonna put it in my MR2 behind the seats but kept my dual 8" that's already installed the way it is)
- Sound Deadner
- KnuKonceptz OFC amp kit, (3) 3ft OFC/twisted RCA cables, (2) Stinger SHD20 power/ground distribution that fits 0-4 gauge wires.
Will be cutting the RCA cable that comes w/ the amp kit and use it w/ Posi-Tap connectors, the RCA that comes with the KnuKonceptz has the remote wire also which I can cut it in half and probably connect both of those remote cable to the stock amp remote wire.
I'll start a new thread once I start the process, I just need to order the amp kit, RCA wires, and posi-taps.
Will try to document and take pictures as much as I can during the install process.
Thank you everyone for helping me with what I'll need, now I'm confident with keeping my stock head unit.
setup will be:
- stock head unit (non navi)
- Audison LRX 5.1K (5 channel)
- JBL MS-8 DSP
- Focal K2P 2 way front (6.5")
- Focal 690 CVX rear (6 x 9)
- 2 10" JL W1v3 subs that'll be in customized fiberglass (was gonna put it in my MR2 behind the seats but kept my dual 8" that's already installed the way it is)
- Sound Deadner
- KnuKonceptz OFC amp kit, (3) 3ft OFC/twisted RCA cables, (2) Stinger SHD20 power/ground distribution that fits 0-4 gauge wires.
Will be cutting the RCA cable that comes w/ the amp kit and use it w/ Posi-Tap connectors, the RCA that comes with the KnuKonceptz has the remote wire also which I can cut it in half and probably connect both of those remote cable to the stock amp remote wire.
I'll start a new thread once I start the process, I just need to order the amp kit, RCA wires, and posi-taps.
Will try to document and take pictures as much as I can during the install process.
Thank you everyone for helping me with what I'll need, now I'm confident with keeping my stock head unit.
The wires are really thin.. I think it's like 18-22... When I originally installed my ms8 i crimped them... But soldering or positaps are def the way to go... Like vtec said.. It's a pain sitting in there trying to attach those wires..limited space and the wires are small
Factory amp is on the passenger side in the trunk .. Just pull off the panels and you will see it.. Small silver box.
What's your full game plan? Also maybe make a new thread detailing your goals ..it'll help other searching for similar things in the future
Factory amp is on the passenger side in the trunk .. Just pull off the panels and you will see it.. Small silver box.
What's your full game plan? Also maybe make a new thread detailing your goals ..it'll help other searching for similar things in the future
12-08-2014, 01:50 AM
#35
Hi VTEC, when you refer to the 20uF 250V non-polarized caps for the tweeters, if I install this then I wont need the Focal crossover anymore but instead let the MS-8 do the job? Also, what about my 2 way 6x9 rear speaker, does it need the capacitor also?
Thanks again,
Vinh
Thanks again,
Vinh
12-08-2014, 07:50 AM
#36
Hi VTEC, when you refer to the 20uF 250V non-polarized caps for the tweeters, if I install this then I wont need the Focal crossover anymore but instead let the MS-8 do the job? Also, what about my 2 way 6x9 rear speaker, does it need the capacitor also?
Thanks again,
Vinh
Thanks again,
Vinh
Unless u have some other way of mounting them.. just an FYI
12-08-2014, 07:34 PM
#37
Crap, I thought it's 6 x 9 when I looked at the bottom of the speaker inside the trunk. If it doesn't fit then I'll install my 6.5" 2 way Focal Polyglass component.
Thank you for the heads up.
Thank you for the heads up.
12-08-2014, 09:50 PM
#40
And try just your focals and subs.. If you read diyma and other websites.. Most ppl recommend not even bothering with rears .. Have a good front and have just subs running in the back.. I ditched my rears