Will 09 TL Front and Rear Sway Bar fit on 09+ TSX?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Will 09 TL Front and Rear Sway Bar fit on 09+ TSX?
As the title states I’m trying to figure out if the 09+ TL front and rear sway bar will fit on 09+ TSX. It would be really nice if the 09+ TL SH-AWD fit but not sure if the bar may be shaped differently to accommodate the AWD. Has anyone on here tried this upgrade on their TSX or know if the bars will fit? Does anyone know off the top of their head what the length of both bars are? Also has anyone seen pics to verify if the bars are shaped different? Any fitment info regarding the sways would be appreciated, thanks.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
For reference if anyone was wonder the TL SH AWD front sway bar will fit with slight modification. I ordered the TL SH AWD bar, endlinks as the studs are thicker than the stock tsx v6/accord v6 endlinks and also the bushings and bushing brackets. I installed my bar today. I failed doing this on my own on saturday because I could not figure out how to get the subframe to drop enough to wiggle the bar out but I have a write up from doing the install with my family mechanic. I could do the install now that I know how to lower the subframe to get clearance. Below is my DIY without pics hope it helps someone here in the future...
In short the tools you will need are short, deep socket, and wrenchs in 14, 17, 19mm sizes along with I believe a 6mm hex for the stock endlinks and 8mm for the tl end links. An assortment of extensions will be needed as well, in addition to Super Lube or a comparable lube for the bushings. You also need a large pry bar, a diamond or carbide dremmel bit and dremmel. A couple of small 2 X 4s.
Remove both wheels. In addition to the list I provided you need two floor jacks, and instead of disconnecting the two bolts on the side of the subframe there is bracket the two bolts goes into the side of the subframe with one bolt holding that bracket in place. You need to remove that bolt on each side, instead of the two bolts that hold the bracket to the subframe. Then get a jack in place or possibly a jack stand under a side of the subframe.
You would lower the front two bolts located embedded in the splash guard right in front of the tow hooks about an inch but keep them in place. Then remove the rear subframe bolts and the bracket bolts. After doing this you should be able to lower your jacks and get some clearance but it won't be enough to get the bar out. You need to get your large pry on the back of the subframe and pull down on it while a person stuffs the small 2 X 4 board between the subframe on the passenger side. Once the block is in place you should have enough clearance to undo the end links and stock sway bar bushing brackets. Then pull the bar out the passenger side.
You also need to remove the bolt that holds the wish bone part of the suspension to the LCA so you have the angle to grind away the bolt holes on the LCA to fit the larger studs for the TL endlinks. Also you will need to elongate the bolt holes on the TL sway bar bushing brackets for them to line up on the bolt holes in the subframe. Once you have bored out the bolt holes, put a jack stand under one side of the subframe, move one of your jacks under the wishbone bolt hole and raise it with the jack so you can put the bolts back in place on each side. After bolt wishbone bolts are back in place, go ahead and install the tl bar, lube up the bushings for the sway bar install the new bushing brackets, and install the tl endlinks. Jack up the subframe on both sides, reattach bolts, put wheels back on and enjoy. Given my setup I could not be happier with my suspension, I'm currently running the progress rear 22mm sway, progress endlinks and UR chassis bracing kit with HFP suspension. I will chime in with more feedback when I've had the opportunity to put some more miles on the road with the tl front sway.
In short the tools you will need are short, deep socket, and wrenchs in 14, 17, 19mm sizes along with I believe a 6mm hex for the stock endlinks and 8mm for the tl end links. An assortment of extensions will be needed as well, in addition to Super Lube or a comparable lube for the bushings. You also need a large pry bar, a diamond or carbide dremmel bit and dremmel. A couple of small 2 X 4s.
Remove both wheels. In addition to the list I provided you need two floor jacks, and instead of disconnecting the two bolts on the side of the subframe there is bracket the two bolts goes into the side of the subframe with one bolt holding that bracket in place. You need to remove that bolt on each side, instead of the two bolts that hold the bracket to the subframe. Then get a jack in place or possibly a jack stand under a side of the subframe.
You would lower the front two bolts located embedded in the splash guard right in front of the tow hooks about an inch but keep them in place. Then remove the rear subframe bolts and the bracket bolts. After doing this you should be able to lower your jacks and get some clearance but it won't be enough to get the bar out. You need to get your large pry on the back of the subframe and pull down on it while a person stuffs the small 2 X 4 board between the subframe on the passenger side. Once the block is in place you should have enough clearance to undo the end links and stock sway bar bushing brackets. Then pull the bar out the passenger side.
You also need to remove the bolt that holds the wish bone part of the suspension to the LCA so you have the angle to grind away the bolt holes on the LCA to fit the larger studs for the TL endlinks. Also you will need to elongate the bolt holes on the TL sway bar bushing brackets for them to line up on the bolt holes in the subframe. Once you have bored out the bolt holes, put a jack stand under one side of the subframe, move one of your jacks under the wishbone bolt hole and raise it with the jack so you can put the bolts back in place on each side. After bolt wishbone bolts are back in place, go ahead and install the tl bar, lube up the bushings for the sway bar install the new bushing brackets, and install the tl endlinks. Jack up the subframe on both sides, reattach bolts, put wheels back on and enjoy. Given my setup I could not be happier with my suspension, I'm currently running the progress rear 22mm sway, progress endlinks and UR chassis bracing kit with HFP suspension. I will chime in with more feedback when I've had the opportunity to put some more miles on the road with the tl front sway.
The following users liked this post:
thunderbt3 (11-02-2011)
#6
Burning Brakes
Whats the benefit of putting the TL sway bar on the TSX? Is the bar smaller in diameter?
Usually, the if you increase the spring rate of your anti-roll bar (make it stronger/stiffer), you decrease traction at that end of the car. If the TL anti-roll bar is bigger in diameter or made of thicker wall thickness tube, you will be pretty much canceling out the effect of the Progress sway bar in the rear.
Usually, the if you increase the spring rate of your anti-roll bar (make it stronger/stiffer), you decrease traction at that end of the car. If the TL anti-roll bar is bigger in diameter or made of thicker wall thickness tube, you will be pretty much canceling out the effect of the Progress sway bar in the rear.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Whats the benefit of putting the TL sway bar on the TSX? Is the bar smaller in diameter?
Usually, the if you increase the spring rate of your anti-roll bar (make it stronger/stiffer), you decrease traction at that end of the car. If the TL anti-roll bar is bigger in diameter or made of thicker wall thickness tube, you will be pretty much canceling out the effect of the Progress sway bar in the rear.
Usually, the if you increase the spring rate of your anti-roll bar (make it stronger/stiffer), you decrease traction at that end of the car. If the TL anti-roll bar is bigger in diameter or made of thicker wall thickness tube, you will be pretty much canceling out the effect of the Progress sway bar in the rear.
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