Integra2TSX

Folks, I need to replace my front rotors at 19k miles due to warping. Thanks, Acura. Thanks.

Ugh.

Anyways, I need some recommendations for rotors and pads that will produce best balance of quietness and low dust. I know they are inversely proportional. But hey, if I had to choose, I'd pick quiet as my most important requirement.

Thoughts? Thanks.

Edit: I also found this, and was wondering what your thoughts are?

http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/s...reet-brake-kit

ulrblitzer

Since you for thoughts, here are mines:

A few of the vendor have nice brake packages depending on your budget and end goal.

Now if you just want replacements for DDing or can't wait for shipping, any blank rotors and pads from xxx auto parts store will suffice. Just avoid their cheaper parts. I always go mid tier or higher.

Autoanything always flashes coupons and deals so make sure you use those codes.

iCrap

i went with posiquiet ceramics and powerstop rotors. There is no dust. There is a little bit of noise when breaking hard (but all slotted / drilled make that noise). Car stops better than the stock stuff. Still not as well as i wish it would, but whatever.

Integra2TSX

Thanks man! I tried the code that flashed but it didn't work. I think it's because the rotors were already on sale.

Thanks for this info. I was worried about the squeak and dusting. I'm surprised that there are still some noises, even though they claim really quiet. How many miles do you have on it now? Did you do the install yourself? Was gonna get all 4 corners and was thinking shop to install. Hmmm

iCrap

I installed it myself yeah. also bled the lines at the same time. The noise is from the rotors not the pads. Every car i have ridden in with drilled / slotted makes the same noise under hard breaking. There is no noise with regular braking.

Miles... i think 5k.

Integra2TSX

Thanks for the info.

I also came across folks who reviewed the Stoptech's and claimed they're crap because they rusted/rusted through. Is this true? Any issues with rusting from you/anyone who has Stoptech? Obviously, I don't want anything that will severely rust

My Acura is my DD, and I will be driving it through winter.

iCrap

I dunno. But if people say they rust i wouldn't get them.

I haven't been through the winter yet with my powerstop ones... so i guess i'll find out how these do.

BROlando

Spend your money on pads. Your old rotors weren't warped. Pad material just deposited itself unevenly on the rotor face.

Centric makes stoptech street performance pads. They're a little dusty, but the braking feel is worth it. They're a great DD pad that will help you avoid pulsing brakes. They need to be properly bedded in, though. Don't leave that step out.


Powerstop Z23's are another nice pad. They're very low dust, but don't have quite the same bite as the stoptech. Again...bed them in.

Any old blank rotor will work great for street use. Rockauto usually has pretty good pricing on all that stuff.

cu2wagon

All carbon steel rotors will rust. Because they are carbon steel. That's what it does when exposed to moisture.

Totally normal. Don't let that be a determining factor.

Unless you go actively hunting for some super sub-standard, bootleg, ebay, "ships from China", special... Pretty much any rotor you get from a reputable source will be fine for what you want to do.

Integra2TSX

I actually took the car to my trusted shop (the manager is a personal friend for years). He and I went for a drive in it. When the brakes were cold, he thought the brakes were fine. After a few stops though, he started to notice some slight pulsing that got progressively worse as we drove more. We drove for about 5-10 minutes, and after that time he felt what I felt (why I brought it in the first place). The brakes felt pulse-y, and took longer to brake as it heated up.

We then put it on a lift, and took all the wheels off to measure the rotors/pads. The pads still had some life in it (the car only has 19k miles) but the rotors were very hot and the tears were not. He measured the surface of the rotors on both driver and passenger side and they were off by a few thousandths in several spots.

He actually said it's not a safety concern and I should be "fine" driving it, but to monitor it. I'm the one who wants a new set, because I don't like how the brakes feel anymore. He said start with fronts only, but hell, I'm thinking both front and back while I'm there.

So that's the whole story. I'm debating just doing the front rotors/pads only versus doing the tears too. Thoughts?

Also, should I also drain and change the entire brake fluid too? Will that help improve affect brake feel?

As for bedding the pads, is there a proper how to? Does it depend on brand?

I read a thread on a person who had bad rusting with the stoptech, even with just 20k miles. I wish I could remember that thread. But it looked bad, and he said the stock one never looked like that. So I dunno. I really like how the stoptech slotted ones look, with the posi quiet pads.

ulrblitzer

Don't drain the brake fluid. Do a proper brake fluid bleed procedure or you'll be asking for trouble.

Stainless steel lines if you want to increase brake feel.

cu2wagon

Yeah, those sorts of stories pop up from time to time. I don't know what to say about that.

Part of me just thinks it's someone who just spend $$$ on new super-dorifto-ultra-racer-spec rotors and then gets peeved when they see the superficial orange oxidation appear. Like they expect them to be made out of special metal infused with unicorn tears that won't rust.

It's not a big deal. If you want oxidation free rotors, Carbon Ceramic is a better choice if it fits the budget. But pretty overkill for a Daily Driver.

Integra2TSX

I agree.

UPDATE: I went ahead and purchased the stoptech slotted brake kit with posi quiet pads. I got all 4 corners.

Now to decide whether I should DIY or get a shop to. Thoughts?

iCrap

It's pretty easy to DIY it.

cu2wagon

Are you basically competent with a set of tools? Have a set of tools? Have the time and space to do it?

Brakes/pads are totally a job that can be handled at home by a reasonably handy person.

I have never checked, but are there any write-ups in the TSX garage section showing a step by step?

If you think you can handle it, go for it! Check the regional directory and see if there are any AZers around that might be able to lend a hand. Bonus if they've done it and can give pointers.

ulrblitzer

Be ready to curse a few times at the dumb retaining screws that hold the rotors on.

iCrap

^ Nah that's easy. Hammer a big phillips head screwdriver onto the screw and turn with a wrench.

ulrblitzer

They sell impact screw drivers if you want to do it right. Still a pain if they are rusted on. Be careful not to strip the screw head.

iCrap

I have an impact screw driver but it's so powerful that it would probably wreck the screw head. So i didn't try it on that.

BROlando

...an impact screwdriver that ruins screw heads is not a powerful tool. You hit an impact screwdriver with a hammer to make it work and the whole point is that it will not strip the head. It will break the bit in most cases of failure. Or snap the screw.

You hit the outer end with a hammer. This turns some of your hammer energy into a twisting force via a beveled/helical gear type mechanism. That way, you're forcing the screwdriver into the head of the screw while turning it via sharp impacts. All that mothafu#&in kinetic energy and shock loading, y'all.

If your impact screwdriver is stripping screws, its broken.

You're probably talking about an impact drill driver.


^this is a ghetto version of an impact screwdriver. But an actual impact screwdriver works way better.

I use that. If that fails, I use an air hammer with chisel bit. Or a regular hammer and chisel. Or a drill.

iCrap

I have these two
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-...rdless/2653-22
Milwaukee 2604-22 M18 FUEL 18V Cordless Lithium-Ion Hammer Drill with XC Batteries

The drill one destroys bits all the time

BROlando

Your mechanic likely didn't find a warped rotor. He found a rotor with brake pad deposits on it. Read up on pulsating brakes. Its caused by your brake pad depositing itself unevely onto your rotor.

The reason OEM rotors rust less is because they are either galvanized or e-coated before machining. The coating keeps the hats and lips from rusting. There are aftermarket rotors that are available like that as well.

I just spray my rotor hats and lips with brake caliper paint.

BROlando

Neither one is an impact screwdriver. An impact screwdriver is human-powered.

You use it by hitting it with an actual hammer.

iCrap

Oh, then no I don't have that.

BROlando

They're not expensive. I use mine alldae. Pretty useful tool.

icu2tsx

through whom did you end up getting them? If you don't mind me asking?

I been looking at them too but been waiting on a black Friday special

icu2tsx

best tool to have, inexpensive too.

whatmyname

I just replaced my rotors and pads this weekend. I used EBC dimpled/slotted rotors, yellow pads up front and reds out back. I wanted yellows for the back as well, but they apparently don't have them anymore for our cars, so I settled for reds. They are a smidge noisy, but I need to have the radio off and be listening for it to notice. Too soon to comment on brake dust.

Braking is substantially better. Initial bite has greatly improved and there is no more pulsing/vibrating during braking. It does not stop the way my mustang or miata did (not that I ever expect it to), but this was a huge step in the right direction. I wish I would have done this sooner.

Also, overall all rotors and pads set me back about $500, buying directly from EBC.

ExcelerateRep

I think I know which review you are talking about. I believe they had slotted or drilled rotors, and left the car sitting for an extended period of time without driving it. In all honesty, any cast iron rotor will rust out if you leave it sitting outside for months or years. If you drive the car regularly you won't have any issues.

Check out our Stoptech brake packages that include all four rotors and pads for the front and rear. They include Stoptech premium rotors with a black e-coating, and Street Performance pads for the front and rear.
8th Civic Brake Packages HONDA - Excelerate Performance - Japanese and European Performance Specialists!!

Integra2TSX

I see. But regardless, there are deposits or uneven surfaces on my rotors now, and they're pulsing. So I want to correct that. If the option is to resurface them or get new, I'd rather get new. Why not...

I believe the StopTech ones I have already have the black centers, so hopefully it helps with the rust issue.

I went through AutoAnything. I spoke to them a couple of times, along with researching other vendors/products. The Stoptech ones were perfect for me. They are slotted, and look sporty without being ricey...a bit more flair over the OEM's. They had a sale specifically for Stoptech parts, and it was by far the lowest around.

This is good to know. I ended up going with Stoptech slotted, so hopefully my experience will be similar to yours. I got the Posi Quiet pads that came with the kit. My OEM brakes have just gotten worse over time. It's disappointing that only after 19k miles, Acura oem parts already degrade that much. It's a shame.

Thanks sir... yeah, it was a Subaru something. The edge view of his pic looked awful.

And as far as your products/site, I researched and looked into your site too, but the same product you have for my Acura costs substantially more that Auto Anything's. You have a different pad for your kit, but otherwise, Autoanything was much cheaper. Sorry, but I had to get it a cheaper vs higher rate if the same product.

ExcelerateRep

That price difference is definitely due to the posi-quiet pads. They are much cheaper than the Street Performance pads. We typically recommend customers stick with the Street Performance unless they really need absolutely 0 dust and go very easy on their brakes. The Street Performance dust quite a bit more, but significantly out perform the posi-quiets. We will often price match if you give us a chance, for future reference!

BROlando

Well...yes, of course you would want to buy new rotors and pads to correct the issue, as I had already suggested.

I was suggesting buying blank rotors along with good quality pads. Pads make the difference....not rotors. Blank rotors are also better for braking performance than drilled rotors.

I'm sure you'll be happy with what you bought. But blank rotors and stoptech pads can be bought for under $200. Just leaving that as information.

My personal preference is to shy away from ceramic street pads as much as possible. I also prefer blank rotors for many reasons.

I haven't experienced any issues with my 2G brakes. But Acura does have to consider a lot of factors when picking a brake formulation. I think that for OEM brakes, the 2G TSX has a pretty decent set. I would never replace worn out OEM brakes with Acura components...but I haven't had problems at all with my current set.

I would venture to guess that your issue started after you braked hard at some point...and then left the brakes clamped while you were stopped. If so...the same issue will present itself with your aftermarket brakes. This is situationally dependent on how well your brake pads will handle heat...and at what temperature they will start to unevenly transfer material.

Integra2TSX

The pads alone are 150 bucks more for all 4 corners? That's crazy! Hopefully the posi quiets will do the job. This is just my daily driver, it's literally to and from work. My Mustang is for when I drive more aggressive.

That makes a LOT of sense, esp your last paragraph. I would imagine that happens to a lot of people right? Has to be.... braking hard, then forgetting and leaving the brakes clamped on.

Yeah as far as blanks vs slotted... I know that there is no improvement in stopping distance from a blank vs slotted. But I figured since I was changing brakes anyways, I'd go with slotted so that I avoid the holes and it doesn't chew up my pads really bad. Besides, pads are cheap. If I get good at the brake install, I can just do it on the fly

icu2tsx

Thanks, I will check autoanything.

iCrap

Also, RockAuto has the posi-quiets for cheap

Integra2TSX

No problem. My parts/kit are arriving Friday. Buddy and I will be doing the install Saturday morning. Will keep posted. Isn't there are DIY for brakes here on this forum?

mkalinich

I'm tired of assumptions on where or how I maintain my car. As I said. Someone ask thoughts on stop tech brakes I gave my opinion with a picture of the brakes. The car is garaged kepted and the car is driven about 2 weeks out of the month.

It's amazing how people can not read a whole post miss so much! One person tried to explain how the surface of a roter will rust when wet until driving. DUH! I am also not someone who purchased $$$ brakes and thought they would be a shiny unicorn. I wanted something better than stock. I went to autoanything and did a chat asking for advise. That's what I ended up with. ALSO I asked both stoptech and autoanything along with you if you would warranty them. The answer is no so again offering advise in a cumminity know that ahead of time.

My biggest beef is the part that is rusting is the black coating put in to prevent rust NOT the roter surface used in braking. Maybe it is the
environment I live in. Maybe not.

In addition I see plenty of brakes on the road rust free trust me I have looked. I have a friend that has stoptech brakes without the black coating they look brand new after a year.

Anyone can have an option that they are good and that's fine but don't make up your own senerio of how my car is kepted or what my motivation was to purchase them. I have also said functionally they are great. So if you want to spend money on them and potentially have rust enjoy.

I thought this community was about sharing options not bashing people when you don't agree.

mkalinich

cu2wagon

Oh, hi. Im not sure if you're the same person they were talking about before or not, but that's a good story you shared.

Well, I would agree that if you're in a salt coastal environment then oxidation will always be a bit worse for you. We fight the same thing with external parts in Houston.

In that pic you posted, will the oxidation wipe off the rotor hat? From that image, it looks like the oxidation is forming a witness mark from where the wheel is installed. To me, that seems like there was some superficial oxidation that got wicked into the contact patch and dried. I'd be surprised if it didn't clean off.

Mainly because the alternate is that the pattern was caused by a minute slippage between the wheel and the rotor face, indicative of a loose wheel. But I wouldn't expect that on all four corners unless the wheels were wrong/not seating right.

Seems strange.

What did you end up doing?

iCrap

That rotor looks totally normal to me. The pad doesn't touch that inner part which is why there is rust obviously. Which is why before I installed my rotors i painted those parts with hi-temp black spray. Still looks like new.