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I'm going to be performing an oil change for my 2012 TSX. Last fall I used Mobil 1 0w-20 with a Mobil 1 filter. I know that this car used to call for a little heavier weight oil in previous years. I'm not beating on the car, but it do bring up the RPMs when I am driving spirited. Is there a higher/different weight of oil that I could benefit from for the summer months?
I know in my old Pontiac 3800 I would run different weights in the winter/summer and I would notice the difference, especially in MPG and startup. Thankfully, I am not running a GM iron block any more
I live in Houston texas, where it is always summer. I've always used 5w-30 for my climate.
you can also check on the back of most oil bottles. they will have a "guide" or graph that shows temperature ranges for specific weights...i believe this graph is also in the owners manual
Why do you need or want a thicker oil for summer (street) use? If Honda recommends 0W20, that would be fine for virtually any type of street use. Bringing the RPMs up sometimes does not necessitate a thicker oil.
I suppose you could run a 0W30 or something, if you really wanted a thicker oil. That will give you the benefit of start up protection of a 0W....and the 30wt thickness at operating temp.
Some 0W30's tend to run thicker at operating temp than 5W30's. It seems that most 5W30's are on the "thin" side when they get hot.
Castrol 0W30 (if you can find it) is a very thick 30wt at operating temp.
M1 0W30 is a little thicker than 0W20 is. So...maybe that's a good choice if you want "slightly thicker".
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Is there a higher/different weight of oil that I could benefit from for the summer months?
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Depends, what benefit are you looking for? These engines will run fine on 20 or 30 oils (the second number), quality and freshness of the oil matters more than that. The first number, 0W or 5W, also doesn't really matter at temperatures below freezing.
In my case, I found the engine consumes a little less oil when I fill it with 5w20 instead of 0w20. It's probably because oil ability to resist evaporation loss is generally better in 5w20 vs. 0w20.
Why do you need or want a thicker oil for summer (street) use? If Honda recommends 0W20, that would be fine for virtually any type of street use. Bringing the RPMs up sometimes does not necessitate a thicker oil.
I suppose you could run a 0W30 or something, if you really wanted a thicker oil. That will give you the benefit of start up protection of a 0W....and the 30wt thickness at operating temp.
Some 0W30's tend to run thicker at operating temp than 5W30's. It seems that most 5W30's are on the "thin" side when they get hot.
Castrol 0W30 (if you can find it) is a very thick 30wt at operating temp.
M1 0W30 is a little thicker than 0W20 is. So...maybe that's a good choice if you want "slightly thicker".
Or just use 0W20. I would just use 0W20.
I do not doubt Honda's recommendation at all, and would not have brought this up if a few years back (2010) called for 5w-20. I used to run 5w-30 in the winter, and 10w-30 in the summer on a diffrent car, and I am wondering if there is any benefit to keep the tradition going. I always had a quieter engine and got a few MPG increase too. I'm not interested in increasing the last number, just the first (winter) number.
Originally Posted by thoiboi
then follow it
Originally Posted by Novichek
Depends, what benefit are you looking for? These engines will run fine on 20 or 30 oils (the second number), quality and freshness of the oil matters more than that. The first number, 0W or 5W, also doesn't really matter at temperatures below freezing.
In my case, I found the engine consumes a little less oil when I fill it with 5w20 instead of 0w20. It's probably because oil ability to resist evaporation loss is generally better in 5w20 vs. 0w20.
The first number's purpose is for cold weather (Winter). I did notice that many forum posts report that the difference between 0w and 5w is very little.
0W or 5W is what the oil starts out as from 0F til about at around room temp (approx 65F or 70F, IIRC).
For example...a 0W30:
-Will flow like a 0Wt at cold temps.
-Will flow like a 30Wt at operating temp (212F, IIRC).
The graph of how the viscosity changes between room temp and operating temp is different for every oil.
Its basically a 0W oil that, with the use of engineered molecules (or additives, if its a non synthetic), will resist thinning enough to flow like a 30Wt would flow at 212F.
In short, it is a 0W that can emulate a straight 30Wt at 212F.
The flow rates also have tolerances. Some oils are thinner/thicker than others that fall within the same weight.
Below 0F, the 0W will continue to flow better than a 5W (typically).
Beyond operating temp, both will start to thin to some extent. Its hard to know. Some manufacturers provide a HTHS number, which is the oil's resistance to high temp thinning/shearing.
Its possible that, beyond 212F, a 5W30 will again be thicker than the 0W30. *maybe*
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Since you mentioned changing from 5W30 to 10W30 in a previous vehicle:
The idea of changing from 5W30 to 10W30 doesn't really do much except make the oil thicker at room temp or below. It will also be a little thicker at some points of the graph between room temp and operating temp. And *maybe* beyond operating temp.
If you're worried about heating the oil far past 212F...then...yes, a 10W30 may offer more protection than a 5W30. But...the TSX doesn't exactly come with a high revving engine or an engine that tends to cook the oil.
But both, 5W30 and 10W30, are the SAME thickness (within tolerance) at operating temp.
Why would you want a thicker oil at room temp?
The thinner the oil is at room temp, the better startup protection it offers.
Regarding the owners manual info change:
The reason for the change between 2010 and 2012 model years is likely because synthetic oil became more prevalent, cheaper, and more beneficial.
If you're not using a real synthetic, an oil with the two numbers close to one another will break down slower. A 10W30, for example, requires less viscosity additives than a 5W30. So a 10W30 will resist thinning/shearing for longer drain intervals...and it can only thin down to a straight 10W when all the additives are gone.
Anyway...a 5W20 will work if thats what you wanna do.
Thanks for the detailed explanation! It is an interesting topic. I'm sticking with the 0w-20 - Probably Mobil 1 oil/filter. I looked into the Honda filters but i guess the A01 models that the dealer has are made by Fram.
I've got a lingering question then, and this probably can be answered by a google search. If a thinner (room tempurature) oil is better for startup, which makes sense, why would most motors not use a 0w-xx? Is it a compression/tolerance issue?
Thanks for the detailed explanation! It is an interesting topic. I'm sticking with the 0w-20 - Probably Mobil 1 oil/filter. I looked into the Honda filters but i guess the A01 models that the dealer has are made by Fram.
I've got a lingering question then, and this probably can be answered by a google search. If a thinner (room tempurature) oil is better for startup, which makes sense, why would most motors not use a 0w-xx? Is it a compression/tolerance issue?
Almost all modern engines spec a 0WXX. As synthetic oils advance, get cheaper, and more available, manufacturers have almost all gone with 0W variants.
Fuel economy plays a part. But now, one can get better protection at all temp ranges using a 0Wxx oil.
Honda has actually been using "thin" oil to get away from seasonal grades since the 1990's when they started spec'ing 5W30 for year round use.
Some super thin 0Wxx's won't work for track use. But...once you start moving away from typical types of use, its understood that you'll need to re-evaluate certain aspects of the car. You didn't say you had plans to actually track the car (20+ min sessions of very hard use at a stretch).
I believe you can hook up a simple bluetooth or wired OBD2 CAN capable tool and monitor your oil temps. I doubt you'll see much past 220F on the street....even if you're having fun.