ed_423

alright, so i got the wheels, but i have a few question in regard to..well..everything. here goes:

1. i was told i can not use stock lug nuts for my wheels? and said to get after market tuner lugs as it is safer? that's what the guy who sold me the wheels told me, he used rays lugs.

2. hub rings, do i need it? lol when he sold me the weheel he gave me 2 (plastic i think) do i need 2 more? or do i just not need any.

3. tpms: many said that the rdx tpms work on tsx?

4. incase you guys did not see the teaser, here it is again

ed_423

opps, forgot 1 more question.

5. these came with tires, but a tiny bit stretched (215/45/18). if i were to lowered with H&R or stech (roughly 1.5-2 inch drop) what kind of tires should i be looking at to replace these after they are worn out? wheels are 18x8.5 if that matters.

hornyleprechaun

No idea, but in for more pics

ceb

I am not sure how you expect to get accurate answers when you do not give us all the info.

Your attempt at being cute with "teaser" pictures is a major fail when you are asking questions that are wheel dependent.

The type of lug you require depends on the shape of the seat on the wheel. If you need centering rings depends on the type of wheel and the size of the hub it was made for. However, if he gave you two centering rings (and the four wheels are the same,)then you will need two more.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

agree with ceb....the type of lug depends on the shape of the seat.


most times aftermarket wheels can cause vibrations. use the hubcentric rings to cure this.


I know the rdx tpms sensors work with the 3G TL.

hope this helps

saucy

I agree with Ceb....I typically like teasers but would help with more pics. But to I used my centering rings....will need a total of four. I did not need special lugs. Im just cheap but I used my stock lugs. I also took my wheels to my local wheel shop and they took my tpms sensors off stock wheels and used them.

All in all congrats on the new wheels man. I know you have been working on that. Cant wait to see more pics.

Tannis

Work Emotion 11R???

live2hit01

in for more pics. i like the fact that you went with 18x8.5, nice choice.

ed_423

lol my bad guys, did NOT know you guys needed those info, thought all wheels would just be the same. don't even know what "shape of the seat on the wheel" means its my first set of wheels haha, go easy.

well, tannis takes the trophy with Work Emotion 11r.

just let me know what else you guys need to help me with these questions

Mr. NC

1) Answered
2) Yes, you need 4
3) TPMS from RDX works cuz TSX and RDX are made in Japan hence parts interchangeability
4) Goddamn son those rims need to be cleaned/repolished/rebuffed LOL
5) No clue

Congratz

09TSXTech

1. Stock rim uses ball/radius lug nuts, whereas most aftermarket uses conical/tapered shape ones.



2. Our car has a 64.1mm centre bore, most aftermarket rim will range from 65-75, the hubcentric ring ensure the rim seat nice and tight on the hub (no vibration).

3. RDX will fit TSX (TPMS and rim)

4. Need better pictures and specs. What kind of tires are you getting.

5. Tire size would be 235/45/18 (which is what the V6 has), or 225/40/18

defconskylude

ed,

you do need 4. they sell a set of 4 plastic centering rings for $8 a set on amazon.

try to find out the center bore of your rims and ill tell you what centering rings to buy

watch my youtube video on centering rings. i explain this in detail

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BGKG678mmQ

ttk5

AWWWWW shiet. Congrats man...your dreams are finally comin true. But you still need tires, lugs, drop and mounting etc. There's always more money to be spent...

Tannis

Woohoooo!!! Whadoiget?! Whadoiget?! Whadoiget?!?! I don't want a damn trophy. No one will ever see it since I have no friends. Can I have a hug?

ceb

You hit the lug on the head. Using the wrong type with the incorrect seat for your wheel can be lethal. You may also need a longer or shorter lug depending on your wheel dimensions.

The purpose of centering rings is to assure that the size of the larger bore of the aftermarket wheel will fit snugly on the smaller hub of the wheel. Without that, you will get an imbalanced wheel.

Anybody that uses the stock lugs when the aftermarket wheel uses a different seat is just plain suicidal. That $100 you may save isn't worth your life.

5thTo2nd

Nice WORK ed! I know you've been looking for shoes for a long time.

Just do like tech said and get some aftermarket lugs and locks for your new rims. Work actually makes a set of lug nuts with locks (Work RS-R) so you can match your rims. As long as you get a tapered lug you are good to go. You can also get a nice set of rays lugs but personally I don't like either cause the adonized finish rubs off/fades pretty easily....I'd go with a nice set of Project KICS!!

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/evasive_em.mvc?c=L1

I went with 225/40/18's...the 40 aspect ratio vs 45 gives you a little less sidewall.

ed_423

thanks guys, and tech, that picture of the lug nuts REALLY helped!

so far these are the tires suggestions i am getting:

kowloon: 235/40/18
tech: 235/45/18 (stock v6) or 225/40/18
5thto2nd: 225/40/18
defcon: 225/35/18 or 235/35/18

ed_423

haha thanks man!! even though these aren't 19's, i think they will still look pretty good with a drop i figure rather than buying cheap used 19's or reps, might as well get some quality 18's haha.

these already came with tire with at least 50%, jsut that they are a bit stretched...but yeah i agree always more money to be spent. so i will either save up then put everything together, or just ride 4x4 for a bit before i drop (maybe xmas?)

ed_423

ed_423

hm well it seems like everyone agrees on going with 40 series. someone correct me if i am wrong, still new to the tire game, but the difference between 235 and 225 is how much side wall it has? something like 225 makes curbing the wheel more likely than 235?

thinking of going 235/40/18 with s-tech drop since that's what kowloon is running. or H&R still cant decide lol

MrOtocinclus

Congratulations on the wheels, can't wait to see some real photos. Regarding the question in post #20, the first number is how wide the tire is, the second number is the "aspect ratio", and the third number is the width of the wheel.

So, using 235/40/18 as an example:

- The tire is 235 millimeters (mm) wide, or 9.25 inches.
- The sidewall is 40% of 235mm, or 94mm, or 3.70 inches.
- The wheel is 18 inches wide, plus 3.7 inches on each side, equals total 25.4 inches of wheel width.

For comparison, our stock 225/50/17 is:
- 50% of 225 = 112.5mm = 4.42 inches
- 17 inches of wheel plus 4.42 on each side = 25.84 inches.

Thus, 235/40/18 is just slightly smaller than stock. For all intents and purposes, it is identical to stock. Plus, you get a nice meaty tire, and a decent ride.

Now that I'm doing all this math, I'm curious about my own 245/35/19, so here goes:

- 35% of 245 = 85.75 mm = 3.38 inches
- 19 inches of wheel plus 3.38 on each side = 25.76 inches.

Smaller than stock, but again, very close. Now I know why I learned all that math in high school!

ed_423

hmm, so is the "goal" to be as close to stock as possible? i just don't want my tire to be so meaty that it makes my wheels look even smaller, or would that make it bigger? lol

by using your calculation, if i were to do stock v6 specs, i'd have 26.32 inches.
and if i were to do 225/40/18 then i'd get 25 inches

i guess my main concern is, since i already went with 18" instead of 19", i don't want to make my wheels look any smaller than they already do compared to 19's, something that makes the wheel look good with a drop.

MrOtocinclus

Well, everyone's goals are different. When I said "meaty", I meant the width of the tire, i.e. standing behind the car and looking at the tires, or what people driving behind you will see. Personally, I like wider tires as I do not want the Toyota Tercel look. You can't tell how big someone's wheels are from behind, right?

If you are concerned with making the wheels look smaller/bigger, then the aspect ratio (the middle number) is what you care about. But, since it's a ratio, the first number matters as well, i.e. 40% of 225 is smaller than 40% of 235.

I'd look at other members with 18s here and do what looks best to me. Don't over think it!

09TSXTech

You nailed it right there. The V6 has 235/45/18, it actually give you a bigger sidewall which in turn fill up any gap in the wheel well with or without a drop, plus a larger sidewall helps cushion the ride and help with pot holes survival.

Acura_Dude

Not to thread jack, but damn defcon, your car is niiiicceee!

Ed, can't wait to see the finished product. I would chime in, but it's all been answered. Amazingly I ended up reading a bunch of stuff on cars, brakes, suspension, motors, etc back in middle/high school and thats how I learned a lot of things. Basically taught myself by reading, asking questions, and some times just tackling it head on.

I'm glad you did ask these questions and definitely can't to your new wheels!

ceb

Actually,the height of the sidewall will always be near identical assuming that you are using the same size wheel.

Here is an example. let us assume our stock tire outside diameter is 25.5 (to make calculation easier)

With a 17inch wheel that means you have a sidewall that is 4.25 inches (25.5 minus 17 divided by 2) Going to a 18 inch wheel reduces your sidewall to 3.75 and a 19 inch wheel would leave you with a 3.25 sidewall.

ceb

Let me do a short tire size primer.

The manufacturer specifies an overall tire diameter for their cars. They also determine the stock size which matches the handling dynamics specified for their cars. In addition, they will specify a wheel width and offset - again for the handling dynamics.

As I explained earlier, the overall diameter can still be kept by using a variety of "plus sizing" of the wheel. As the wheel gets larger, the sidewall must shrink in order to maintain that overall diameter. As wheel sizes get larger, wheels get heavier (and more expensive) The increased weight can put additional stresses on the suspension (especially as the tire width increases and offset changes) that may result inunwelcome handling issues and may also result in the dealer refusing warranty service on any suspension related problems. They may also refuse some drivetrain issues and bits like wheel bearings.

A shorter sidewall will result in a harsher ride and larger sheels are more prone to damage.

In short, you need to consider all the downsides before you rush out and buy those cool 19" rimz.

Remember that the wheel size was originally determined by the manufacturer, so I'd be very cautious using a 19" wheel on urban roads in the US when the manufacturer designed the suspension system around a 17" wheel.

ed_423

thank you ceb for dropping the knowledge bomb, as well as tech,mroto, and everyone else it's def. making my journey a lot easier

Mr. NC

Epic knowledge by the vets in this thread, I approve

Can't wait when I get my "cool 19" rimz"

ceb

An educated owner will understand the risks and benefits associated with any mod (including the unintended consequences [like warranty issues]) and will be able to make an educated decision about their mod. Once educated, they'll be financially and mentally prepared to absorb any consequences of said mod - be it a bent wheel, a bubbled tire or a damaged suspension.

When I contemplate a mod I ask myself:

What could go wrong?
What are the implications if it goes wrong?
Am I OK with paying for the fix?
Is the benefit worth it?

I've long since gotten away from the concept that the bad things only happen to other people. That's made my decisions harder, but I was prepared when stuff did go wrong.

Mr. NC

Nicely said Ceb

Just to clarify I wasn't hating when I used your statement in quotations haha I like to keep things light around here.

Looking into rims myself this thread has been informative

09TSXTech

ed, your 18" is perfectly fine as our CU2 is designed around 17"-18" in OEM trim. Remember you can order 18" rims from the accessory catalog.

That's said, when you move up to 19"-20", should really consider what ceb mentioned above, they are all valid.

After hitting a pot hole that blew out the side wall on my 19", I put the stock 17" back.. You know what, they look pretty good.



Here's a side by side shot with a 2011 outside a shopping mall this afternoon.

ceb

Not to worry.

Many of us came from Europeancars that are, quite frankly, far advanced and over engineered over most Japanese cars. The huge downside is that even smple mods can have major consequences. The most egregious example I canthink of is the guy who was too cheap to replacehis sidemarker bulbs on his Jetta. He wanted that silver look so he dipped the bulbs in silver paint. Everything was fine and the bulbs blinked amber but looked silver when off.

A few weeks later he got these odd " tail light out " warnings but the lights were all OK.

The dealership spent days trying to diagnose the problem until a tech noticed the odd looking side marker bulbs. It turns out that the paint had dripped into the housing, melting it. Once melted, the housing shorted. Since his car used a CAN-BUS electrical system where everything is interconnected, he ended up having to replace the entire wiring harness to the tune of $3000 plus the initial diagnostics.

With examples like that you learnreal quick to search for unintended consequences before you mod.

On one of the boards we spend lots of time playing "six degrees of Kevin Bacon" and could link ANY mod to any failure. ECU failure? That can be traced back to aftermarket tire valve stem caps. Don't even need six steps for that one.

ttk5

i want a pic of the wheel!!

Terdbath

Those are some nice wheels ed. Good job!

tsxronald

Finally you got the wheels. Now get the coilovers and slam it! Going the slam 2gen TSXCREW!...lol just made it up.