Help - 2009 TSX needs Rear Brakes at 25.5k
#1
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I just came back from the dealer - my brakes have a bobble when I hit them reasonably hard from 60 mph. You hit them lightly, they are fine, you hit them hard they are fine, but you hit somewhere in between, a bit of a bobble. It's gotten better but I had dealer look at.
Inner rear pads are thin. Doesn't need to be changed this second, but thin. I've read that this seems to be a TSX and Accord problem? I'm still stumped, I do a lot of highway driving - my Pathfinder went more than 40k on front brakes and still had original rear drums at 120k miles.
First, not giving the dealer $350. I was told that on gen 1 TSX, 12mm socket and screw in caliper and you're done. Anyone know if 2009 is as easy? It sure looked simple when I looked at it on lift with wheel off.
I tend to not turn rotors - they get a shine back so quick, it just doesn't pay - can you not turn rear rotor on TSX when changing pads?
Second, does anyone have recommendation on possibly better pad, that would last longer and perform well (if not better, brakes are one area of car that don't perform great). I'd rather spend a few more bucks on pads and not have to replace every 28k miles.
Inner rear pads are thin. Doesn't need to be changed this second, but thin. I've read that this seems to be a TSX and Accord problem? I'm still stumped, I do a lot of highway driving - my Pathfinder went more than 40k on front brakes and still had original rear drums at 120k miles.
First, not giving the dealer $350. I was told that on gen 1 TSX, 12mm socket and screw in caliper and you're done. Anyone know if 2009 is as easy? It sure looked simple when I looked at it on lift with wheel off.
I tend to not turn rotors - they get a shine back so quick, it just doesn't pay - can you not turn rear rotor on TSX when changing pads?
Second, does anyone have recommendation on possibly better pad, that would last longer and perform well (if not better, brakes are one area of car that don't perform great). I'd rather spend a few more bucks on pads and not have to replace every 28k miles.
#2
dɐɹɔ ǝɥʇ ʇɐɥʍ
You'd probably be better off posting this in Second Gen. TSX section. I traded in my first Gen. TSX when it had 42k miles on it and the brakes still looked great, it has been my experience that honda cars typically see abnormally high brake life.
It also seems very odd that a brake pad would cause a bobble a vibration is almost always caused by a warped rotor. A few quick tips, first of all, always hand torque lug nuts to manufacturers spec using the "star" pattern for the order of tightening. Second, if the vibration is felt in the steering wheel it's the front brakes, if it's felt in the seat of the car it's typically the rear. Inexperienced tech's always misdiagnose this sort of thing, so make sure you know what is going on. As for replacement I would not replace the pads until they are to the squealers, the TSX has solid rear rotors(I believe, I'd be shocked if they were vented) and 99 times out of a 100, at least in this area, solid rotors need to be replaced when the pads are gone so there is no point in replacing the pads prematurely.
It's very hard to diagnose something like this over the computer, but I'd be surprised if the rear pads are causing what you're experiencing. If the brakes are similar to the first Gen. TSX, they are EXTREMELY easy to do.
Good luck and let us know what the outcome is!
It also seems very odd that a brake pad would cause a bobble a vibration is almost always caused by a warped rotor. A few quick tips, first of all, always hand torque lug nuts to manufacturers spec using the "star" pattern for the order of tightening. Second, if the vibration is felt in the steering wheel it's the front brakes, if it's felt in the seat of the car it's typically the rear. Inexperienced tech's always misdiagnose this sort of thing, so make sure you know what is going on. As for replacement I would not replace the pads until they are to the squealers, the TSX has solid rear rotors(I believe, I'd be shocked if they were vented) and 99 times out of a 100, at least in this area, solid rotors need to be replaced when the pads are gone so there is no point in replacing the pads prematurely.
It's very hard to diagnose something like this over the computer, but I'd be surprised if the rear pads are causing what you're experiencing. If the brakes are similar to the first Gen. TSX, they are EXTREMELY easy to do.
Good luck and let us know what the outcome is!
#3
Bobble..
The bobble for the most part has gone away.
I'm really well aware of torque specs and such - my dad owned 3 gas stations growing up, and what causes front vs rear. The problem is that while the bobble is essentially less noticable, its lead me to find that the pads are worn.
I don't want to go down to "sqealers", per the dealer you don't need to replace rotors. The only car that I know of that rotors need to be replaced when brakes go is BMW.
Steve
I'm really well aware of torque specs and such - my dad owned 3 gas stations growing up, and what causes front vs rear. The problem is that while the bobble is essentially less noticable, its lead me to find that the pads are worn.
I don't want to go down to "sqealers", per the dealer you don't need to replace rotors. The only car that I know of that rotors need to be replaced when brakes go is BMW.
Steve
#5
dɐɹɔ ǝɥʇ ʇɐɥʍ
The bobble for the most part has gone away.
I'm really well aware of torque specs and such - my dad owned 3 gas stations growing up, and what causes front vs rear. The problem is that while the bobble is essentially less noticable, its lead me to find that the pads are worn.
I don't want to go down to "sqealers", per the dealer you don't need to replace rotors. The only car that I know of that rotors need to be replaced when brakes go is BMW.
Steve
I'm really well aware of torque specs and such - my dad owned 3 gas stations growing up, and what causes front vs rear. The problem is that while the bobble is essentially less noticable, its lead me to find that the pads are worn.
I don't want to go down to "sqealers", per the dealer you don't need to replace rotors. The only car that I know of that rotors need to be replaced when brakes go is BMW.
Steve
I wasn't trying to be a dick, I was trying to help with a situation knowing less then all of the facts through a keyboard - take it easy.
#6
Senior Moderator
There are a bunch of threads on this already (unfortunately it's a common problem). Try the search button to find them. Also try looking in the Problems & Fixes section.
Welcome to the forum.
Welcome to the forum.
#7
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#8
I had mine got at 13K or so. So you are good. Replace them with after market ones or OEM ones and they do better.
rockauto has pads and discs quite cheap. I am planning on doing all 4 soon (when the fronts go out). I am at 32K now.
rockauto has pads and discs quite cheap. I am planning on doing all 4 soon (when the fronts go out). I am at 32K now.
#9
Senior Moderator
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